204 doesn't work

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minimarc123
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204 doesn't work

Postby minimarc123 » Fri Mar 01, 2002 1:00 am

Yah, I'm having trouble with my 204 sharpmaker. I've only tried sharpening with it about 3 times, but I've had no luck, even with high quality kichen kives. I can't get it sharp enough to shave or cut paper.



Do any of you have advice/pointers on it?



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yog
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Postby yog » Fri Mar 01, 2002 4:42 pm

First thing to do when sharpening a new knife with the 204 (and it sounds like the problem you might be having), is to check the angle of the original grind and see if it needs reprofiling.

This can be done one of a couple ways.
Use a permanant marker to mark the edge of the knife (carefully), and when you sharpen check to see that the marker is being erased right down to the edge. If you are onle erasing the marker a couple of mm's back from the edge then the knife needs to be reprofiled.

The other method is instead of going straight into alterate strokes, just sharpen one side to you achieve a burr, then sharpen the other side to you achieve a burr there, then go onto alternate strokes.

After a knife has been profiled to match the 204 subsequent sharpenings are much faster.

BTW
I find that I am more heavy handed with the right stroke than I am with the left stroke. Watch for this and check for a burr just before you change to a finer stone.

Is that a <img src="http://spyderco.com/forum/spyder.gif"border=0> in your pocket, or are you just glad to see me ?

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SpyderNut
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Postby SpyderNut » Fri Mar 01, 2002 4:51 pm

Right on, Yog. 500%!<img src="tongue.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>

Dude, one thing you might want to do is watch the included video that came with the 204. It is chock full of info that you probably won't pick up from just 'tinkering' from time to time. Try it! It might help.<img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>

~Spydernut

minimarc123
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Postby minimarc123 » Fri Mar 01, 2002 5:26 pm

DOH! **hits himself in the head**

Yah, I guess I didn't profile the knife yet... and I don't have any of my own knives to sharpen. My step-mom is big into cooking and I'm scared to really mess them up, so I didn't even attempt the 30 degree angle. I'm gonna go find/buy a cheap knife to practice with soon.

Oh, I also noticed that I push a lot harder on the right stroke, and I've tried to correct it. Now that I think of it, that must be why one side seems to catch a lot better than the other.

Thanks a lot, yog... <img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>

-Marc

PS: My wegner jr is ready for pickup at 1:00 tomorrow! I can't wait!

minimarc123
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Postby minimarc123 » Fri Mar 01, 2002 8:11 pm

Actually, that was the first thing I did. I almost cut out part way, but I'm glad I didn't because those commecrcials at the end were great!

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I'm sure that my major problem was that I hadn't back beveled... now that I think of it, the kitchen knife has been sharpened quite a bit and is probably wider than it was

Gary
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Postby Gary » Fri Mar 01, 2002 11:26 pm

Good advice YOG... <img src="wink.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
I learned something here.

Thanks,
Gary

lotsablades
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Postby lotsablades » Sat Mar 02, 2002 8:10 pm

Something else to consider is that the stones (especially the grey ones...) on the 204 have a break-in period of about 8 to 10 sharpenings. Once you pass that threshold, you'll find that they remove metal much more efficiently!
Be Patient. The 204 is the best sharpener I have ever used, hands down. Give it a chance...

<img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>
<img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>

"A knifeless man is a lifeless man..." -ancient Nordic proverb

clipiteer
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Postby clipiteer » Sun Mar 03, 2002 9:57 am

Or, you can do like Sal did in the video and rub the stones together so they sharpen better the first time. I love my 204, and I got it for $45

minimarc123
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Postby minimarc123 » Sun Mar 03, 2002 3:47 pm

Yah, so I just tried sharpening my wegner jr. I could easily get a burr on it with about 7 strokes, then I did about 7 on the other side (step 3), and then began alternating. Then for step 4, the burr seemed to just got away, so I assumed that meant the edge will be razor sharp... but it wasn't. I'm not sure if I broke the burr, or what?

And, I noticed that at the end I could shave on one side of the blade a little, but not the other, does that mean I still have a little bit of a burr left?

Also, around the curved section of the blade, I lost about 1/2 - 1 mm of metal... if this continues, won't I have no blade left in a year? Did I do too much?

<img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0><img src="spyder.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle border=0>

-map

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J Smith
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Postby J Smith » Sun Mar 03, 2002 4:18 pm

I just sharpened a Se worker with pretty good results.I done about 5 strokes on the ser side and 1 on the flat side with the blade layed flat on the stone no angle to cut off the bur.Back and forth like this a few times got me an 'all right' edge.

}{ Jeff

minimarc123
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Postby minimarc123 » Sun Mar 03, 2002 4:24 pm

Thanks, but I'm using a straight edge

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yog
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Postby yog » Sun Mar 03, 2002 5:16 pm

I've got two Wegners, the Ocelot and the Mouse. It might be concidence but I found the grind on both of these to be shallower than 40 degrees (possibly around 50 degs).

I also found that one side sharpened up much faster than the other, (possibly un equal grind or me just being uneven handed). So if you didn't check the grind on both sides you might just have been straightening the burr you created on the first side.

On any curved section of a blade, be it near the tip or a recurve blade it is important to keep the portion of the blade that is in contact with the stone purpendicular to the stone. So on a blade like the Wegner most of the stoke is horizontal, but as you get near the tip you will need to raise the back of the knife up in order to keep the edge perpandicular to the stone. If you don't you will be taking more steel off than you need to.

Is that a <img src="http://spyderco.com/forum/spyder.gif"border=0> in your pocket, or are you just glad to see me ?

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vampyrewolf
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Postby vampyrewolf » Sun Mar 03, 2002 6:10 pm

Most of my spydies are done to 30 degrees, my hard use 'beater', the Delica, is done to 40.

If you know what you are doing, reprofile using a benchstone with a heavy(300ish) grit and work your way up. I've been sharpening by hand since I was 5, and the angle I've always done fit's perfectly on the 40 setting. Guess I was doing 40 all along on my old knives.

Also, as was said before, the 204 seems to have a break-in period of about 8-10 times. I'm long past that (about 20-30 now) and it sharpens(and touches up) very fast.

We all start with 10 fingers. Those with Spydies have 9 to spare, Still need a thumb. Good thing I still have 8 to spare...


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