What angle do you use to sharpen?
What angle do you use to sharpen?
What angle do you prefer to sharpen your folders and why?
I prefer a small angle (20 degrees) because I want the sharpest edge possible.
I prefer a small angle (20 degrees) because I want the sharpest edge possible.
30 degrees inclusive (15 degrees each side).
I remember being in Culinary School, and we were all taught to sharpen our knives to 20 degrees each side. I naturally had to go a step further and sharpened mine to 15 degrees each side. Anytime someone would use my french knife to cut something their eyes would POP. <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle>
I remember being in Culinary School, and we were all taught to sharpen our knives to 20 degrees each side. I naturally had to go a step further and sharpened mine to 15 degrees each side. Anytime someone would use my french knife to cut something their eyes would POP. <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle>
-
Joe Talmadge
- Member
- Posts: 1077
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
I use 15 degrees per side, too, although I take a few 20 degree swipes at the end of the sharpening process to double-grind the burr off. I haven't really seen problems with chipping, depending of course on what I'm doing with the knife. Certainly, my ATS-55 endura is holding up fine, although the edge does roll a bit. Were I to back off of this strategy, what I'd probably do is: sharpen at 15-degrees until all the magic marker is gone, but a burr hasn't been raised, then switch to 20-degrees and raise the burr etc.
I only use 20-degrees per side for robust fixed blades, not folders. If a folder can't stand up to at least a 15/20 edge, much less a straight 15, I switch folders.
Joe
I only use 20-degrees per side for robust fixed blades, not folders. If a folder can't stand up to at least a 15/20 edge, much less a straight 15, I switch folders.
Joe
Joe,
I am very glad to read this. I have been under the impression for awhile now that only "Super" steels might stand up to the 15+15 degree sharpening technique.
A reprofiling I do go...perhaps the one to start with might be my plain edged Military in ATS-34. Do you think?
Jeff.
Edited by - Jeff/1911 on 1/21/2002 12:48:53 PM
I am very glad to read this. I have been under the impression for awhile now that only "Super" steels might stand up to the 15+15 degree sharpening technique.
A reprofiling I do go...perhaps the one to start with might be my plain edged Military in ATS-34. Do you think?
Jeff.
Edited by - Jeff/1911 on 1/21/2002 12:48:53 PM
-
Sword and Shield
- Member
- Posts: 2050
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: USA
I appear to be the only diehard 20 fan here! <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle> After a summer of working knives hard, I came to the realization that a 40 degree inclusive angle worked far better and was more durable than a 30 degree on most jobs.
On a kitchen knife, which sees little tough cutting, I will use 30 degrees to enhance performance, but that's the only exception.
Keepin' it real...real sharp, that is.
On a kitchen knife, which sees little tough cutting, I will use 30 degrees to enhance performance, but that's the only exception.
Keepin' it real...real sharp, that is.
- vampyrewolf
- Member
- Posts: 7486
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
EDC line-up/angle:
Calypso jr lt, plain/30(15+15)
SS Dragonfly, plain/30
Delica lt, plain/40
Tufram Cricket, serr/30(both sides get sharpened)
Muela 4" Skinner, plain/30
The only reason my delica is 40 is for it's use as a beater.
We all start with 10 fingers. Those with Spydies have 9 to spare, Still need a thumb. Good thing I still have 8 to spare...
Calypso jr lt, plain/30(15+15)
SS Dragonfly, plain/30
Delica lt, plain/40
Tufram Cricket, serr/30(both sides get sharpened)
Muela 4" Skinner, plain/30
The only reason my delica is 40 is for it's use as a beater.
We all start with 10 fingers. Those with Spydies have 9 to spare, Still need a thumb. Good thing I still have 8 to spare...
For my SE blades, I just follow the bevel of the serrations. The same holds true for my PE blades, but it's harder because the bevel is on both sides and therefore the beveled portion is smaller.
I have a question. Would a strop be a good idea for Spyderco's blades? Not the spyderedge, just the plainedge. Seems to me it would be a great and simple way to polish.
I have a question. Would a strop be a good idea for Spyderco's blades? Not the spyderedge, just the plainedge. Seems to me it would be a great and simple way to polish.
-
sam the man..
- Member
- Posts: 2935
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: Kuala Lumpur Malaysia