i really like my Tasman Salt and I was thinking of buying a matching Salt 1. The only concern that I have is its tip. It seems really thick and curved downwards. Is it possible to reprofile it or should I not do that to H1?
Tom
Salt 1 reprofiling possible?
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LOOKABIRD
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Salt 1 reprofiling possible?
Spyderfly x2, Civilian G-10, Military CF S90V, Military CF BG-42, CalyIII PE CF ZDP-189, Military SE, Harpy SS PE, Merlin SE Black FRN, P'Kal, Tasman Salt PE Black FRN, Karambit, Cricket PE SS, Police SE SS, Ladybug CE Blue FRN
Wish List: Military Black Blade PE
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Wish List: Military Black Blade PE
BUY "ALWAYS SEARCHING" ON ITUNES!
You always could, I suppose...
Personally, I prefer to use Salt knives as beaters, of sorts (which the thick tips assist with), and save the delicate work for other knives, like my Caly3. I've come to the line of thought that there is no one knife for me that can handle everything that I throw at it; and so I carry several.
In my opinion, the Salt1 is a great match-up with the Tasman, due to the Tasman's pointy hawkbill blade being a Yin to the Yang of the Salt1's more blunt, drop-point blade. I would get the Salt1 in SE, though, it seems to work a lot better.
Personally, I prefer to use Salt knives as beaters, of sorts (which the thick tips assist with), and save the delicate work for other knives, like my Caly3. I've come to the line of thought that there is no one knife for me that can handle everything that I throw at it; and so I carry several.
In my opinion, the Salt1 is a great match-up with the Tasman, due to the Tasman's pointy hawkbill blade being a Yin to the Yang of the Salt1's more blunt, drop-point blade. I would get the Salt1 in SE, though, it seems to work a lot better.
Back from an extended hiatus.
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SimpleIsGood229
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Either way, it should work harden. I know for a fact that Tom Krein can make it pointy.bh49 wrote:I think you should have no problem to remove material with coarse or extra coarse stones, but it can take time. Not sure about effect of use of motorized equipment.
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LOOKABIRD
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Could I just use a heavy grit whetstone to take off a lot of the material then polish it up with the sharpmaker stones?
Tom
Tom
Spyderfly x2, Civilian G-10, Military CF S90V, Military CF BG-42, CalyIII PE CF ZDP-189, Military SE, Harpy SS PE, Merlin SE Black FRN, P'Kal, Tasman Salt PE Black FRN, Karambit, Cricket PE SS, Police SE SS, Ladybug CE Blue FRN
Wish List: Military Black Blade PE
BUY "ALWAYS SEARCHING" ON ITUNES!
Wish List: Military Black Blade PE
BUY "ALWAYS SEARCHING" ON ITUNES!
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MANIXWORLD
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i have made my SALT1 plainedge to a more pointy tip and using a diamondstone to do so :spyder: it has worked wonders,i used water in the process.i wouldn't advise using machines for the grinding process.it takes a bit of time,but the H1 steel,isn't that hard,which makes it easier :spyder: to grind by hand :spyder:LOOKABIRD wrote:Could I just use a heavy grit whetstone to take off a lot of the material then polish it up with the sharpmaker stones?
Tom
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SimpleIsGood229
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I think MW pretty much has it. Get yourself a DMT X- or XX-Coarse and go from there with the Sharpmaker stones. A DMT Coarse wouldn't hurt as an in-between.MANIXWORLD wrote:i have made my SALT1 plainedge to a more pointy tip and using a diamondstone to do so :spyder: it has worked wonders,i used water in the process.i wouldn't advise using machines for the grinding process.it takes a bit of time,but the H1 steel,isn't that hard,which makes it easier :spyder: to grind by hand :spyder:
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Grey Mullet
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I don't know. I do remember reading a post somewhere by someone who was felt that it would be necessary to reprofile both sides at the same time, or maybe go back and forth rapidly like on a Sharpmaker. The person who posted felt that if you tried to do one side, the blade would get warped due to work hardening before you got to reprofile the second side.
