Sharpmaker clarification

[catamount]

Please tell me if my understanding is correct here.

When I want to touch up a :spyder: (or any knife) on the Sharpmaker, it is the micro bevel I am concerned with. By definition, a micro bevel is at a larger (correct term :confused :) angle than the primary bevel.

If, for example, the primary bevel is 36 degrees and I use the 40 degree setting, all is well. However, if I use the 30 degree setting, then I am attempting to reprofile the knife, which is not what I want to do, and it will actually make things worse.

Therefore, the 30 degree Sharpmaker setting should only be used when:

a) I want to touch up a knife that has a factory primary bevel of less than
30 degrees, or has been reprofiled to less than 30 degrees.

b) I want to reprofile the knife to a primary bevel of 30 degrees.

Now to my specific question; is the primary bevel of the Caly 3 less than 30 degrees? Can I touch it up with a micro bevel of 30 degrees, or would I need to reprofile it first?

[eljay]

I have zero idea about that particular knife, but one bit of useful advice from the forum is to get a sharpie and color in the edge of the knife up past the "shoulder". Sharpen it. If the ink at the very edge is coming off, you're golden. If the ink is coming off the shoulder, you're trying to reprofile the blade.

If you are trying to reprofile the blade, it's a nice way to measure progress.

[catamount]

I have zero idea about that particular knife, but one bit of useful advice from the forum is to get a sharpie and color in the edge of the knife up past the "shoulder". Sharpen it. If the ink at the very edge is coming off, you're golden. If the ink is coming off the shoulder, you're trying to reprofile the blade.

If you are trying to reprofile the blade, it's a nice way to measure progress.

Thanks eljay, that makes sense :) I'd heard about using a sharpie before, but not explained in that particular way.

[4 s ter]

[quote="catamount"]Therefore, the 30 degree Sharpmaker setting should only be used when:

a) I want to touch up a knife that has a factory primary bevel of less than
30 degrees, or has been reprofiled to less than 30 degrees.

b) I want to reprofile the knife to a primary bevel of 30 degrees.

Now to my specific question]

The bevel at the edge has to be a wider angle than that of the main bevel of the blade (there doesn't seem to be consistent use of the terms "primary" "secondary" etc.)

As an example, on the diagram below, if the angle between the "secondary edge faces" was 30 degrees, the angles between the "primary edge faces" would have to be wider than 30 degrees. Otherwise, to sharpen the "primary edge faces" you would have to hone the entire blade face. Change the names to whatever you prefer, the principle is the same.

In my opinion, a Sharpie maker and a magnifying glass (10x to 15x) are the best thing that ever happened to my sharpening technique. With them I can be sure that I'm actually sharpening the edge (as eljay mentioned) and check for burrs, chips, nicks, etc.

Hope this helps!

[catamount]

Thanks David :)

I took the plunge and touched up my Caly 3 at 30 degrees. It worked great.

http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25500

[bowarrow2000]

If I am not mistaken all Spyderco's come from the factory at 15 deg. +/-. The Cally3 sure works well at 15 along with most of my other knives which are Spydies and Bms.

[Django]

Most Spydercos come from the factory at 30* inclusive. You can easily apply a micro bevel for increased edge strength by using the 40* setting.


edit: Sorry if you already knew this, I kinda skipped around the thread a bit

[Hillbillenigma]

Good thread!!

Thanks 4 s ter, great diagram and instruction.