How do you sharpen your serrations?
How do you sharpen your serrations?
So for your harder steels (VG10, S30V, etc), how do you sharpen your serrations? The Sharpmaker manual shows an alternating stroke and 3:1 stroke method. Sal says in the video that the 3:1 produces a sharper edge, but is weaker. Most knives seem to be flat on the opposite side of the serrations. Do you guys do the same technique for the tip of your fully serrated blades as well? Thanks for the opinions.
Spyderco 701 Profiles
I used to use the Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker system but I have totally changed the way I now sharpen my serrated Spyderco blades.
Spyderco has a set of ceramic files call the Spyderco 701 Profiles. I have shared these with a couple of other Forum brothers and they both agree with me that the 701 Profiles do a great job on serrations. They not only work on Spyderco's serrations but they work on a lot of serration patterns as well.
Now the 701 Profiles are a little more "time & Labor" intensive but the results are worth it.
Now the 204 Sharpmaker will do a good job but I personally think that the 701 Profiles are better. And you can get them at the Spyderco Factory Outlet that you can contact through this website. Also there are several Spyderco dealers who also sell them. Good Luck
Spyderco has a set of ceramic files call the Spyderco 701 Profiles. I have shared these with a couple of other Forum brothers and they both agree with me that the 701 Profiles do a great job on serrations. They not only work on Spyderco's serrations but they work on a lot of serration patterns as well.
Now the 701 Profiles are a little more "time & Labor" intensive but the results are worth it.
Now the 204 Sharpmaker will do a good job but I personally think that the 701 Profiles are better. And you can get them at the Spyderco Factory Outlet that you can contact through this website. Also there are several Spyderco dealers who also sell them. Good Luck
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- Michael Cook
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:spyder: 701 Profiles all the way. Only with the 701 Profiles can I get serrations and reverse angle blades as sharp as my plain edges. :spyder:
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- ghostrider
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I use the Sharpmaker. works well enough for me. I do have a set of the smaller profile stones that are discontinued, but have yet to master the freehand skills necessary to use them.
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- Harry White
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i'm having the same problem. i have the 701s but still can't get a decent edge.ghostrider wrote:I use the Sharpmaker. works well enough for me. I do have a set of the smaller profile stones that are discontinued, but have yet to master the freehand skills necessary to use them.
Users: SS Police PE, Delica 4 PE, Kopa Cocobolo, Blue Dodo SE, Yellow Pacific Salt PE, Micarta SPOT SE, Gray Calypso Jr, Temperance SE, Burgandy Jess Horn w/ZDP, UK Penknife, BB Delica 3 PE, Captain, CF Military w/BG-42, Lava, Caly3 SE, Para-Military SE, Manix CE, BB Para-Military SE, Delica 4 Wave, Ocelot CE, SpyderFly, Navigator II SE, Vagabond, D'Allara Drop Point CE, Black Assist I, Bug Set (and also: Sharpmaker, SS byrd Finch PE, Profile Set, byrd Firebyrd, Large Spyderpac, byrd Wings)
There are some good pic's showing how to use the 204 as a guide for other stones, here: http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24938Harry White wrote:i'm having the same problem. i have the 701s but still can't get a decent edge.![]()
Hope this helps,
Bruceter
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yablanowitz
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I use the 701s for my serrations, but I use a DMT diamond serration sharpener rod on my girlfriend's, at least to start, since I have to completely reprofile them every time I get my hands on them :rolleyes: . I wish she would let me sharpen them while there are a few sharp spots left.
In my experience, it is easier to get the angle correct and consistent if you clamp the knife in a padded vise and use both hands for the stone. Work slowly, and concentrate on keeping the stone at the same angle. If you are like me, you will tend to let the stone "rock" a little over the length of the stroke, which will round the bevel. In my case, I usually only use about half the stone (the middle half).
Hope this helps a little.
In my experience, it is easier to get the angle correct and consistent if you clamp the knife in a padded vise and use both hands for the stone. Work slowly, and concentrate on keeping the stone at the same angle. If you are like me, you will tend to let the stone "rock" a little over the length of the stroke, which will round the bevel. In my case, I usually only use about half the stone (the middle half).
Hope this helps a little.
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- uhiforgot
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I haven't had a chance to use the profiles, but when I sharpen serrated on the sharpmaker I usually get pretty good results on a 1:1 ratio, but working SLOWLY!!! If you are using a sawing motion for serrated cutting, sharpen backward too (rather than drawing backward going down the stones, push forward along the blade while moving down the stones). Time consuming and awkward, but it works for me. Hope this helps!
-Jeff
Well until the rest of us can s*** money, we'll keep sharpening and caring for the knives we paid our hard earned dollar for.poodle wrote:i dont when they wear out i get a new knife
-Jeff
A very wise man once told me "Eat to live; don't live to eat." ...To my knowledge that's the only stupid thing he's ever said.
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spydutch
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Most of the time I just use the corners of my white stones for my serrations 3:1 just like Sal says.
I go really slow and try to keep the angel as constant as possible.
I can get every scallop of my serrations cigarette paper cutting sharp this way.
Furthermore I don't let the serrations get too dull. When I use the knife at work I sharpen the knife(about 20 strokes total, about 5 minutes) every other day or so.
I go really slow and try to keep the angel as constant as possible.
I can get every scallop of my serrations cigarette paper cutting sharp this way.
Furthermore I don't let the serrations get too dull. When I use the knife at work I sharpen the knife(about 20 strokes total, about 5 minutes) every other day or so.
Arend(old school Spydie lover)
MEMBER OF THE INTERNATIONAL ORDER OF THE SPYDEREDGE!!!
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....AND A FG(PARA) MILITARY/SE IN CPMD2(thanx Sal)
...I would love to have one in full SpyderEdge:p
MEMBER OF THE INTERNATIONAL ORDER OF THE SPYDEREDGE!!!
VERY PROUD OWNER OF A CALY III/SE #043 :D
....AND A FG(PARA) MILITARY/SE IN CPMD2(thanx Sal)
...I would love to have one in full SpyderEdge:p
so far i've been sharpenning my serrated blades on the sharpmaker exactly like i've been sharpening my plain edegs (one stroke on each side). that method also appears on the spyderco manual and produces a stronger edge.. it also seems to center the edge and make my serrasions cut straight.. sharpness is still extreme and if you want to maintain higher sharpness you can use the 30 degree angle (still makes the edge stronger because serrated knives are 20 degrees).
- smcfalls13
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Most of the time I use my Sharpmaker. Not 3:1 exactly but similar technique. I'd say maybe 5-6:1. I do the 1 when I see a small burr develop.
BUT - I recently had a Dodo that had been badly abused. It needed major surgury. I picked up a Lansky Spydie Sharp (or some such thing). It said it was for Spyderco serrations. It has three different radii on the three corners (wide radius, medium radius and corner like the 204) of a basically triangular shape. It's about 3" and says it can go on your key ring. It was slow, grueling work but it did what I needed it to do. I was able to use the wide radius and lower the bevel by a few degrees. I suspect this thing would work well for maintainance too, with all the usual "angle" caveats.
Tried the 701s a few times but they seem to have a variable radius I found akward. Was that just my perception??
Anyway, if it's a new knife in relatively good shape, the 204 does a great job.
(Poodle - feel free to send me any of those old dull serrated knives you no longer want)
Ken
BUT - I recently had a Dodo that had been badly abused. It needed major surgury. I picked up a Lansky Spydie Sharp (or some such thing). It said it was for Spyderco serrations. It has three different radii on the three corners (wide radius, medium radius and corner like the 204) of a basically triangular shape. It's about 3" and says it can go on your key ring. It was slow, grueling work but it did what I needed it to do. I was able to use the wide radius and lower the bevel by a few degrees. I suspect this thing would work well for maintainance too, with all the usual "angle" caveats.
Tried the 701s a few times but they seem to have a variable radius I found akward. Was that just my perception??
Anyway, if it's a new knife in relatively good shape, the 204 does a great job.
(Poodle - feel free to send me any of those old dull serrated knives you no longer want)
Ken
玉鋼
- Harry White
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thanks bruceter. :) i dig those sharpmaker mods! :DBruceter wrote:There are some good pic's showing how to use the 204 as a guide for other stones, here: http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24938
Hope this helps,
Bruceter
Users: SS Police PE, Delica 4 PE, Kopa Cocobolo, Blue Dodo SE, Yellow Pacific Salt PE, Micarta SPOT SE, Gray Calypso Jr, Temperance SE, Burgandy Jess Horn w/ZDP, UK Penknife, BB Delica 3 PE, Captain, CF Military w/BG-42, Lava, Caly3 SE, Para-Military SE, Manix CE, BB Para-Military SE, Delica 4 Wave, Ocelot CE, SpyderFly, Navigator II SE, Vagabond, D'Allara Drop Point CE, Black Assist I, Bug Set (and also: Sharpmaker, SS byrd Finch PE, Profile Set, byrd Firebyrd, Large Spyderpac, byrd Wings)