Reprofiling With Sandpaper on a Sharpmaker?

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Dave568
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Reprofiling With Sandpaper on a Sharpmaker?

#1

Post by Dave568 »

I've been looking for a good way to reprofile some of my knives, and I came across a site that suggestioned wrapping coarse sandpaper around the sharpmaker rods and then using the rods normally to reprofile the blade. Has anyone ever tried it? Does it work well? And if so, does anyone have any tips for utilizing this method well?

Thanks.
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d.g.g
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#2

Post by d.g.g »

I haven't tried it but I did reprofile at the 30 degree angle setting by holding an extrea course whetstone against the rods put into the flat position. It worked very well. You just have be careful because your finger/hand is on the wrong side of the brass rods. However if you take it slow and easy it works good. It doesn't seem to me that sandpaper would hold up very well but like I said I have never tried it.

http://www.dmtsharp.com/general/basicsharp.htm

http://forums.egullet.com/index.php?showtopic=26036
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ghostrider
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#3

Post by ghostrider »

You can also get a set of three diamond hones from Harbor Frieght for $10+ shipping, and it will work well if you just rubber-band them to the rods.

Here's what I do in drasstic situations.

http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16689
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#4

Post by Mr Blonde »

I tried sandpaper around the sticks for reprofiling. Though it worked it left rather messy results. It left many scratches on the blade.

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#5

Post by Bodieism »

Mr Blonde wrote:I tried sandpaper around the sticks for reprofiling. Though it worked it left rather messy results.
Same here.
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Dave568
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#6

Post by Dave568 »

How fast is the sandpaper compared to, say, a diamond rod for reprofiling?
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WORKER#9
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#7

Post by WORKER#9 »

Dave568 wrote:How fast is the sandpaper compared to, say, a diamond rod for reprofiling?
I have put some serious time into some dull kitchen knives. The diamonds take time. I have never used sandpaper.

I wish Spyderco made some coarse and Xtra coarse stones!
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Native Justice
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#8

Post by Native Justice »

Try wet/dry sand paper with self adhesive backing and secure it to the rods. You're able to maintain the flats and edges much easier and can use the grit you need for the amount of blade removal desired. Fast easy and doesn't leave any adhesive on the hones. Good luck! :D
Be safe.

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ghostrider
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#9

Post by ghostrider »

Dave568 wrote:How fast is the sandpaper compared to, say, a diamond rod for reprofiling?
Much faster if you use a corse grit. I started with 220 grit on my dowell rods.

I had spent about 12 hours trying to get a decent bevel on my Crossbill with the diamond rods. When I used the sandpaper it was a mater of a couple hours.
First they came for the Trade Unionists, and I did not stand up, because I was not a Trade Unionist.
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[INDENT][INDENT]Attributed to Pastor Martin Niemöller [/INDENT] [/INDENT][/INDENT]
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http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18317
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gull wing
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#10

Post by gull wing »

I use an Edge Pro to reprofile.
Sharpmaker for not too dull blade.
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#11

Post by Dave568 »

I'm thinking about getting an Edge Pro actually, but I'm looking for more information on it. I haven't been able to find anywhere yet that shows how the sharpening system really works.

Also, long would it take to reprofile a knife with the Edge Pro versus a diamond rod on a sharpmaker?
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#12

Post by mrd74 »

I've reprofiled knives with excellent results using 150 grit sandpaper attached to the rods using double sided tape. Follow up with progressively finer grits to get a polished finish.
Joe Talmadge
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#13

Post by Joe Talmadge »

Native Justice wrote:Try wet/dry sand paper with self adhesive backing and secure it to the rods. You're able to maintain the flats and edges much easier and can use the grit you need for the amount of blade removal desired. Fast easy and doesn't leave any adhesive on the hones. Good luck! :D

I didn't realize I could get wet/dry sandpaper with adhesive backing. I think most of the reason for the messy results when using sandpaper wrapped around the rods is that the sandpaper flexes, and aside from grit getting all over, the sandpaper ends up touching places on the blade it shouldn't touch. If the adhesive keeps the sandpaper flat, but the paper can still easily be ripped off and replaced, that'd be a killer solution.
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#14

Post by d.g.g »

That's the exact reason a 2" x 6" whetstone held against the flats of the Sharpmaker rods works so well. No mess or movement. The double sided whetstones are not very expensive if you don't want to spring for an extra-course DMT whetstone.
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d.g.g
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#15

Post by d.g.g »

That's the exact reason a 2" x 6" whetstone held against the flats of the Sharpmaker rods works so well. No mess or movement. The double sided whetstones are not very expensive if you don't want to spring for an extra-course DMT whetstone.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/ ... ion=new%2F
Dave568
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#16

Post by Dave568 »

d.g.g wrote:That's the exact reason a 2" x 6" whetstone held against the flats of the Sharpmaker rods works so well. No mess or movement. The double sided whetstones are not very expensive if you don't want to spring for an extra-course DMT whetstone.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/ ... ion=new%2F
How do you fasten the whetstone against the sharpmaker rods? Do you use double sided tape?
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gull wing
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#17

Post by gull wing »

Go to Edge Pro's site. Full of info. I think you can e-mail questions.
I bought mine at Best Knives.
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gull wing
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#18

Post by gull wing »

Another benifit of Edge Pro is the water stones they use last a very long time.
My dislike of diamond stones is they dont last (for me).
The course stone cuts very fast.
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