Now I'm Disillusioned with my CPM440V Native...

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LethalWeapon
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Posts: 20
Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am

Now I'm Disillusioned with my CPM440V Native...

#1

Post by LethalWeapon »

Well, I'm a bit troubled with my inability to affect a sharp edge on my Native. It's a P/S blade and the serrated edge is fine but the 35% plain edge at the tip is impossible to get as sharp as when I got it new. I tried back beveling to 30 degrees and then a full steps 1-4 at 40 degrees on the Sharpmaker, even using over 60 strokes on the white edge, but I cant get it back to the hair-shaving sharp it started out as. Also I've had a fit trying not to let the point slip off the stone without luck. Now the point is nice and blunt. I've decided just to send it back to CO. for them to do it for me.
mundele
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Posts: 200
Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am

#2

Post by mundele »

Hi,
Are you following Joe Talmadge's advice about stroking on one side until you raise a burr and then switching sides? His method has really worked for me.

See a posting on it here...
http://www.knifeforums.com/ubb/Forum10/HTML/000044.html
LethalWeapon
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Posts: 20
Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am

#3

Post by LethalWeapon »

Thanks for the advice mundele. Yes, I have tried that method too,alas, without the results I want.
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Clay Kesting
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Posts: 1241
Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
Location: Sydney Australia

#4

Post by Clay Kesting »

LW, I find that with my CPM440V knives I have to finish up with very light strokes on the white stones, to bring them up to scary sharp. Also remember that the factory edge is usually about 30 degrees, less if the unserrated section is chisel grind (I don't have a serrated Native, so I'm not sure what the edge is like). This means that the edge will never feel quite as sharp if you use the 20 degreee slots in the Sharpmaker, but what you're cutting won't really notice the difference <img src="smile.gif" width=15 height=15 align=middle>. I don't go anywhere near the point of the knife when I'm using the corners of the stones, then I sharpen the tip by letting it slide down the flats. Hope this helps.

Clay

Don't worry that the world might end tomorrow, in Australia it's tomorrow already.
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sal
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Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 12:00 pm
Location: Golden, Colorado USA

#5

Post by sal »

Hi Lethal. Sorry you're having difficulty. I guess you could send it back to us for a "look-see".

sal
LethalWeapon
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Posts: 20
Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am

#6

Post by LethalWeapon »

Thanks for all the support everyone. I don't know of any other product I've ever bought that has had this kind of support and fellowship.
RickdM
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Posts: 25
Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
Location: Dallas, Texas

#7

Post by RickdM »

Whenever I have had a hard time getting a sharp edge it is usually because the stone is not reaching the edge. So I use a red marker and a magnifying loop to make sure of where I am making contact with the blade. I was having a hard time with a new G-10 Navigator and realized after using the marker that it was unevenly ground, with one side being at a much blunter angle than the other (the first time this has happened to me with a Spyderco). After using a much coarser stone (leaning against the sharpmaker rod) to set the angle to 30 degrees it took a razor edge.

Regards,
Rick
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