CPM-3V for Culinary/ Processing Game

[civilian_g10]

I wanted to hear some opinions on CPM-3V with regards to culinary use and processing wild game. I've seen some nice kitchen and hunting knives in this steel. My understanding is that it is tough as all ****, but I'm concerned with corrosion in an uncoated blade.

Is CPM-3V known to react quickly with blood and fruit acids? I know that some carbon steels can impart a taste/ leave marks on certain acidic fruits - e.g. lemon, orange, pineapple, etc.

Would LC200N be a better choice in this scenario?

[zhyla]

A semi stainless steel won’t interact with food in a noticeable way.

Why LC200N? There are a lot of good stainless steels between 3V and LC200N.

[civilian_g10]

A semi stainless steel won’t interact with food in a noticeable way.

Why LC200N? There are a lot of good stainless steels between 3V and LC200N.

I read that LC200 has a high toughness rating. One of the highest for a stainless, IIRC. I wanted something that wouldn't chip easily if I hit a bone.

I know there is the line of S steels, e.g. S30 -> S110, 154CM, etc. I've read that some of the higher S steels have issues with chipping.

It was originally the toughness of 3V, allowing a finer edge and thinner stock that caught my attention. Then I realized that LC200N also had a high toughness ranking while also being very stainless.

I'm not a knife steel expert by any stretch of the imagination, I just read articles on knife steel nerds and some forums. I figured I'd ask here, as I know there is a wealth of knowledge available.

I've also considered Magnacut, FWIW.

My apologies if the question wasn't applicable here, or seemed amateurish.

[civilian_g10]

As a side note, my experience with steels is; 1095, 420HC, AUS-8/10, VG10, and S30V.

[zhyla]

Honestly I think choosing steel just on one property like toughness without considering the geometry is a mistake. Any steel can deal with bones if the right geometry is used.

Usually (usually) people making knives choose the steel wisely. I didn’t know people were using 3V in kitchen knives. Seems odd but maybe it’s fine.

Keep in mind “kitchen knives” is a big category. Are you talking about meat cleavers? Toughness makes sense. Everything else? Edge retention/hardness matters more.

[benben]

Look into AEB-L, very stainless and super tough!

I love 3V, as you know it's not stainless, and holds an edge a little longer than AEB-L. But AEB-L is easy to sharpen and takes a hair popping edge, and has great edge stability!

AEB-L and LC200N are both extremely tough, AEB-L is slightly tougher and has better edge retention, I'd choose AEB-L of these two.

Also check into MagnaCut, Pro-Cut, and 80crV2, the last two being non-stainless.

[sal]

Hi Civilian,

Just my opinion, but coatings have their limitations. The first place to corrode is the edge, because it's exposed on both sides. The coatings to not protect the edge.

sal

[civilian_g10]

Honestly I think choosing steel just on one property like toughness without considering the geometry is a mistake. Any steel can deal with bones if the right geometry is used.

Usually (usually) people making knives choose the steel wisely. I didn’t know people were using 3V in kitchen knives. Seems odd but maybe it’s fine.

Keep in mind “kitchen knives” is a big category. Are you talking about meat cleavers? Toughness makes sense. Everything else? Edge retention/hardness matters more.

Here is a link to one of the kitchen knives I was looking at in CPM 3V:

https://msicardcutlery.com/shop/kitchen ... ta-handle/

[kobold]

I keep 3v in the kitchen. No issues, sometimes (very rarely) i see like a small spot, but it can be wiped off with a kitchen towel. i don't try to protect them, i just use them.
The first two are 3v:

They process a lot of food, as i almost never eat out, including fish, beef, game.

[Synov]

3V with a good heat treat is more stainless than most steels used for kitchen knives. If that's not enough for you then go for MagnaCut. Both will take an excellent fine edge.

[civilian_g10]

I keep 3v in the kitchen. No issues, sometimes (very rarely) i see like a small spot, but it can be wiped off with a kitchen towel. i don't try to protect them, i just use them.
The first two are 3v:

They process a lot of food, as i almost never eat out, including fish, beef, game.

Thanks kobold. If you don't mind me asking, who makes those two knives?

[Scandi Grind]

My main kitchen knife is made of 80crV2, so totally un-stainless steel. I have also used iron clad knives and the iron is even more reactive than steel is, BUT, once I built up a patina I hardly ever thought about the fact that they were carbon anymore. There is a little extra maintenance, but it isn't so bad once your accustomed to it. Basically I just make sure I wash and dry the knife as soon as I am done with it and it isn't an issue once the patina has built up. Don't leave acidic juices on it after your done, don't leave it wet, and you're good to go.

I don't have experience with 3V, but it certainly isn't as reactive as 80crV2, so I'd imagine maintenance wouldn't be a noticable problem with some basic forethought.

[zhyla]

Here is a link to one of the kitchen knives I was looking at in CPM 3V:

https://msicardcutlery.com/shop/kitchen ... ta-handle/

Honestly I wouldn’t obsess about steels for kitchen knives. A gyuto should never see a bone or anything harder than a carrot. So what does nearly $500 for a 3V knife buy you that run of the mill D2 won’t get you?

But don’t take advice from me, my drawer is full of carbon steel knives that outperform most crap kitchen knives but won’t compete with modern super steels.

[benben]

Honestly I think choosing steel just on one property like toughness without considering the geometry is a mistake. Any steel can deal with bones if the right geometry is used.

Usually (usually) people making knives choose the steel wisely. I didn’t know people were using 3V in kitchen knives. Seems odd but maybe it’s fine.

Keep in mind “kitchen knives” is a big category. Are you talking about meat cleavers? Toughness makes sense. Everything else? Edge retention/hardness matters more.

Here is a link to one of the kitchen knives I was looking at in CPM 3V:

https://msicardcutlery.com/shop/kitchen ... ta-handle/

Pretty sure I’ve never seen a dedicated kitchen knife in 3V before?

[vivi]

3V would be an awesome steel for a chefs knife. It's very tough, holds a good edge, isn't difficult to sharpen and resists corrosion better than any non stainless steel I've tries.

That knife you linked to is tempting for me, since that's my line of work.

You can get high quality chef knives much cheaper though, as zhyla mentioned.

From my own personal collection:

$10 - Kiwi 21

$22 - Cold Steel 10" chefs, 4116 steel

$40 - Victorinox 10" chefs, 1.4 something steel

$100 - Tojiro Oboro gyuto, VG10

$110 - Yamashin 210mm gyuto, white steel

$200 - Tsunehisa aogami super 10" gyuto


Spydercos murray carter line is very well made too, worth a look.

[kobold]

I keep 3v in the kitchen. No issues, sometimes (very rarely) i see like a small spot, but it can be wiped off with a kitchen towel. i don't try to protect them, i just use them.
The first two are 3v:

They process a lot of food, as i almost never eat out, including fish, beef, game.

Thanks kobold. If you don't mind me asking, who makes those two knives?

All are Bark River.