MagnaMax - Glow in the dark
- WilliamMunny
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MagnaMax - Glow in the dark
About a year ago a friend on this forum sent me some compost scales to try from G.L. Hansen. I have always used stabilized wood so this was a first time for me.
I won’t go into the total build but highlight the two main lessons I learned. The first is heat, when using of a power sander don’t build too much heat. If you do the epoxy used to make the scales will start to get soft. You can use power sanders just take your time.
The second lesson I learned was how hard these scales are. It took me about twice as much time and twice as much sand paper to sand these down vs stabilized wood. Especially at 220grit, it took me 2-3 hours to move on to the next grit. On the good side once I got to 600 grit it went a lot faster.
Anyone wonder the sand paper stages I used was 60/100/120/150/220/320/400/600/1000/1500/2000/2500/3000 and finally a polishing wheel with blue compound.
I won’t go into the total build but highlight the two main lessons I learned. The first is heat, when using of a power sander don’t build too much heat. If you do the epoxy used to make the scales will start to get soft. You can use power sanders just take your time.
The second lesson I learned was how hard these scales are. It took me about twice as much time and twice as much sand paper to sand these down vs stabilized wood. Especially at 220grit, it took me 2-3 hours to move on to the next grit. On the good side once I got to 600 grit it went a lot faster.
Anyone wonder the sand paper stages I used was 60/100/120/150/220/320/400/600/1000/1500/2000/2500/3000 and finally a polishing wheel with blue compound.
Endura AUS-8, Manix 2 S30V, Manix 2 LW MagnaCut, BBB 15V Manix 2, BBB 15V Para 3 LW, Alcyone BD1N, PM2 Micarta Cruwear, Native 5 Maxamet (2nd), Para 3 Maxamet (2nd), Magnacut Mule, Z-Wear Mule, REC Para 3 10V Satin, Dragonfly Salt 2, GB2 M4, Pacific Salt SE H2, Dragon Fly SE H2, Endela K390 PE, Chaparral SE XHP, Shaman Micarta XHP, Bodacious SPY27, Manix 2 LW 15v, Sage 5 REX-121 LW.
- Manixguy@1994
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Re: MagnaMax - Glow in the dark
Beautiful scales ! Definitely worth all your effort . MG2WilliamMunny wrote: ↑Sat Sep 27, 2025 9:11 pmAbout a year ago a friend on this forum sent me some compost scales to try from G.L. Hansen. I have always used stabilized wood so this was a first time for me.
IMG_7368.jpeg
I won’t go into the total build but highlight the two main lessons I learned. The first is heat, when using of a power sander don’t build too much heat. If you do the epoxy used to make the scales will start to get soft. You can use power sanders just take your time.
The second lesson I learned was how hard these scales are. It took me about twice as much time and twice as much sand paper to sand these down vs stabilized wood. Especially at 220grit, it took me 2-3 hours to move on to the next grit. On the good side once I got to 600 grit it went a lot faster.
IMG_7417.jpeg
Anyone wonder the sand paper stages I used was 60/100/120/150/220/320/400/600/1000/1500/2000/2500/3000 and finally a polishing wheel with blue compound.
IMG_0049.jpegIMG_0052.jpegIMG_0051.jpegIMG_0053.jpegIMG_0054.jpegIMG_0055.jpeg
MNOSD 0002 / Do more than is required of you . Patton
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Nothing makes earth so spacious as to have friends at a distance; they make the latitudes and longitudes.
Henry David Thoreau
Re: MagnaMax - Glow in the dark
Really nice WM.
Re: MagnaMax - Glow in the dark
Ha! That's great! Good work!
Somewhere I read "don't sand GITD" and I think the reason given was that it cuts the phosphorescent pigments. IIRC, glow comes from intact pigment crystals near the surface. This is from my faulty memory, could be wrong. Nevertheless, I can't think of any other way to make scales of GITD material in a home shop, and it seems to have worked just fine for you!
Somewhere I read "don't sand GITD" and I think the reason given was that it cuts the phosphorescent pigments. IIRC, glow comes from intact pigment crystals near the surface. This is from my faulty memory, could be wrong. Nevertheless, I can't think of any other way to make scales of GITD material in a home shop, and it seems to have worked just fine for you!
Steel novice who self-identifies as a steel expert. Proud M.N.O.S.D. member 0003. Spydie Steels: 4V, 15V, 20CV, AEB-L, AUS6, Cru-Wear, HAP40, K294, K390, M4, Magnacut, S110V, S30V, S35VN, S45VN, SPY27, SRS13, T15, VG10, XHP, ZWear, ZDP189
Re: MagnaMax - Glow in the dark
Awesome work. Definitely a striking piece!
- WilliamMunny
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Re: MagnaMax - Glow in the dark
It worked fine, but the glow in the dark parks did sand fast than the other resin parts. Some care was needed when sanding to make sure it was even.Bolster wrote: ↑Sun Sep 28, 2025 9:15 amHa! That's great! Good work!
Somewhere I read "don't sand GITD" and I think the reason given was that it cuts the phosphorescent pigments. IIRC, glow comes from intact pigment crystals near the surface. This is from my faulty memory, could be wrong. Nevertheless, I can't think of any other way to make scales of GITD material in a home shop, and it seems to have worked just fine for you!
Endura AUS-8, Manix 2 S30V, Manix 2 LW MagnaCut, BBB 15V Manix 2, BBB 15V Para 3 LW, Alcyone BD1N, PM2 Micarta Cruwear, Native 5 Maxamet (2nd), Para 3 Maxamet (2nd), Magnacut Mule, Z-Wear Mule, REC Para 3 10V Satin, Dragonfly Salt 2, GB2 M4, Pacific Salt SE H2, Dragon Fly SE H2, Endela K390 PE, Chaparral SE XHP, Shaman Micarta XHP, Bodacious SPY27, Manix 2 LW 15v, Sage 5 REX-121 LW.
Re: MagnaMax - Glow in the dark
Nice!
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Stable Mules; Z-Max, Z-Wear, Magna Cut, Magna Max, SRS13, Rex 76, Rex T15.
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Stable Mules; Z-Max, Z-Wear, Magna Cut, Magna Max, SRS13, Rex 76, Rex T15.Re: MagnaMax - Glow in the dark
That's really pretty.
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catfish333
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Re: MagnaMax - Glow in the dark
Beautiful scales! Really nice work!
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barnaclesonaboat
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Re: MagnaMax - Glow in the dark
Super cool finished knife @WilliamMunny ! Thanks for sharing the details on your process and lessons learned, too.
Re: MagnaMax - Glow in the dark
Very Nice!
sal
sal
Re: MagnaMax - Glow in the dark
Great work. Beautiful job