15v question

[Steelerfan736]

Hello, I recently acquired one of the Spyderco BBB sprints in 15V. I’ve carried Spyderco for years and own many, but this is my first venture into any type of tool steel. I imagine this has been asked and answered before, but I’ve not been able to find it. As far as usage, care, storage, etc for tool steel, and particularly this steel, will I be ok using this knife for food prep (ie slicing a tomato, etc)? How rust prone is this particular steel? I’m perfectly fine with a patina developing, I just don’t want to severely rust and/or pit my blade. I rubbed a couple drops of non toxic oil onto the blade when I got it. Is this sufficient? How frequently do I need to oil/ maintain this steel? And what needs done as far as long term storage. Thank you.

[Evil D]

For me it has resisted a patina to the point of even cutting raw bloody steak hasn't caused a patina, or not a lasting one. I'll see a rainbow effect on the blade but even days later it just wipes off.

Rust is another story. My Shaman developed some pretty deep specks that did pit the steel and won't polish off and it was laying on a desk when it happened, no idea what got on it. I would treat it like any other non stainless, the most important thing being to clean it after using it.

The one thing I can't vouch for is humidity. It's hot as heck where I work but I spend a lot of time in an office these days so I can't say if it'll rust in your pocket. In the past I've had jobs outside in the heat and in all kinds of weather and I've even had S90V show spot rust on hot humid days just from body moisture. I have to assume it would be the same with 15V, so I'd just take some precautions like I do with other steels that I know will rust. Better safe than sorry.

I recently commented about edge degradation with some carbon steel, where the edge will dull just from corrosion. I've had that with K390 and Maxamet but haven't noticed it yet with 15V.

[WilliamMunny]

Hello, I recently acquired one of the Spyderco BBB sprints in 15V. I’ve carried Spyderco for years and own many, but this is my first venture into any type of tool steel. I imagine this has been asked and answered before, but I’ve not been able to find it. As far as usage, care, storage, etc for tool steel, and particularly this steel, will I be ok using this knife for food prep (ie slicing a tomato, etc)? How rust prone is this particular steel? I’m perfectly fine with a patina developing, I just don’t want to severely rust and/or pit my blade. I rubbed a couple drops of non toxic oil onto the blade when I got it. Is this sufficient? How frequently do I need to oil/ maintain this steel? And what needs done as far as long term storage. Thank you.

With food prep it will patina a bit. In general just keep it clean and it will serve you well for many years. Use it as you need and dry and clean it shortly after you’re done using it. Oil it as you see fit depending on use but I would say once every 1-3 months depending on use.

[LazyOutdoorsman]

For me, my 15v has exceeded expectations in corrosion resistance. When I worked outside and became drenched in sweat, there wasn't any rust to be wiped off at the end of the day. I did use a light coat of mineral oil though.
After a little bit of use, I did see a super light and beautiful patina that could only be seen at a weird angle.

[RustyIron]

As far as usage, care, storage, etc for tool steel, and particularly this steel, will I be ok using this knife for food prep (ie slicing a tomato, etc)? How rust prone is this particular steel?

I've been carrying my 15V Manix since the day I got it, and it's been interestingly resistant to corrosion or patination. If I'm using the knife to chop up something in the kitchen, I'll rinse it off and then do a half-fast job of drying it before sticking it back in my pocket. If I'm out doing something, I'll probably wipe it off before it goes back in my pocket. You just reminded me that I picked a bunch of nectarines this afternoon and cut them up for lunch. I just checked, and the blade has sticky residual juice left on it. There's no signs of rust.

[Steelerfan736]

As far as usage, care, storage, etc for tool steel, and particularly this steel, will I be ok using this knife for food prep (ie slicing a tomato, etc)? How rust prone is this particular steel?

I've been carrying my 15V Manix since the day I got it, and it's been interestingly resistant to corrosion or patination. If I'm using the knife to chop up something in the kitchen, I'll rinse it off and then do a half-fast job of drying it before sticking it back in my pocket. If I'm out doing something, I'll probably wipe it off before it goes back in my pocket. You just reminded me that I picked a bunch of nectarines this afternoon and cut them up for lunch. I just checked, and the blade has sticky residual juice left on it. There's no signs of rust.

This is very helpful feedback. Like I said I’m totally new to tool steels, and I wasn’t sure if I should use it like I would ordinarily use my stainless knives. It sounds like I should be ok. Very excited to try this steel.

[TkoK83Spy]

I'd think that stonewashed finish is pretty bullet proof.

[Mage7]

It seemed on par with D2 for me. Doesn't really rust super easy, but still not stainless. Mostly have only had a problem with it getting sweaty, or if it gets chlorine on it.

This was after an accident with some bleach. I didn't like it so wanted to force a patina

That was after leaving it in some rust remover overnight. For comparison the same stuff left a pitch black patina on Rex45.

[Brock O Lee]

...after an accident with some bleach...

...after leaving it in some rust remover...

Living on the edge, so that the rest of us don't have to...

[hambone56rx]

It seemed on par with D2 for me. Doesn't really rust super easy, but still not stainless. Mostly have only had a problem with it getting sweaty, or if it gets chlorine on it.

PXL_20230714_215029210.NIGHT~3.jpg

This was after an accident with some bleach. I didn't like it so wanted to force a patina

PXL_20230715_212716154.NIGHT~3.jpg

That was after leaving it in some rust remover overnight. For comparison the same stuff left a pitch black patina on Rex45.

What rust remover did you use? I'll make a mental note for the future! Thank you!

Hamilton

[Mage7]

It seemed on par with D2 for me. Doesn't really rust super easy, but still not stainless. Mostly have only had a problem with it getting sweaty, or if it gets chlorine on it.

PXL_20230714_215029210.NIGHT~3.jpg

This was after an accident with some bleach. I didn't like it so wanted to force a patina

PXL_20230715_212716154.NIGHT~3.jpg

That was after leaving it in some rust remover overnight. For comparison the same stuff left a pitch black patina on Rex45.

What rust remover did you use? I'll make a mental note for the future! Thank you!

Hamilton

It was Rust-Oleum brand but I'm pretty sure Loctite's "Naval Jelly" is about the same stuff. Basically just phosphoric acid in a clinging gel.

[Red Leader]

Gotta be careful with the rust removal stuff…


I think it was called ‘Rust-B-Gone’, some sort of acidic remover. I stuck a slightly sticky/rusty bicycle chain in there one day and forgot about it till the next. I was going to pull it out with a wire hook but for some reason it wasn’t coming out of the container.

So I decided to pour it out and instead of just the rust remover, out came hundreds of little chain links, pins, and plates all separated out! It ate away enough of the tolerance fit that the entire chain just fell apart.

Watch the stuff on your pivot and lockup areas lol

[Evil D]

Oxalic acid will remove rust, probably without any issues. We used to use it for BMX bicycle frames and parts because it'll remove the rust without damaging the factory decals. Not sure if it'll patina a non stainless steel though since we were almost always doing this with chrome-moly parts.

[Mage7]

Gotta be careful with the rust removal stuff…


I think it was called ‘Rust-B-Gone’, some sort of acidic remover. I stuck a slightly sticky/rusty bicycle chain in there one day and forgot about it till the next. I was going to pull it out with a wire hook but for some reason it wasn’t coming out of the container.

So I decided to pour it out and instead of just the rust remover, out came hundreds of little chain links, pins, and plates all separated out! It ate away enough of the tolerance fit that the entire chain just fell apart.

Watch the stuff on your pivot and lockup areas lol

Yeah I take the blade out and put it in a yogurt lid with heavy grease on the pivot hole and other areas where tolerances are needed.

Rex45 took a much, much darker patina from it

I wonder what the difference is. I imagine the large amount of vanadium in the 15V keeps it from getting darker. It doesn't exactly skimp on the chromium either.

[Red Leader]

Gotta be careful with the rust removal stuff…


I think it was called ‘Rust-B-Gone’, some sort of acidic remover. I stuck a slightly sticky/rusty bicycle chain in there one day and forgot about it till the next. I was going to pull it out with a wire hook but for some reason it wasn’t coming out of the container.

So I decided to pour it out and instead of just the rust remover, out came hundreds of little chain links, pins, and plates all separated out! It ate away enough of the tolerance fit that the entire chain just fell apart.

Watch the stuff on your pivot and lockup areas lol

Yeah I take the blade out and put it in a yogurt lid with heavy grease on the pivot hole and other areas where tolerances are needed.

RDT_20250808_095247234342569736002992~2.jpg

Rex45 took a much, much darker patina from it

PXL_20250227_232318217~4.jpg

I wonder what the difference is. I imagine the large amount of vanadium in the 15V keeps it from getting darker. It doesn't exactly skimp on the chromium either.

Screenshot_20250815-114846.png

Yep, thats how I would do it too.

[LazyOutdoorsman]

Gotta be careful with the rust removal stuff…


I think it was called ‘Rust-B-Gone’, some sort of acidic remover. I stuck a slightly sticky/rusty bicycle chain in there one day and forgot about it till the next. I was going to pull it out with a wire hook but for some reason it wasn’t coming out of the container.

So I decided to pour it out and instead of just the rust remover, out came hundreds of little chain links, pins, and plates all separated out! It ate away enough of the tolerance fit that the entire chain just fell apart.

Watch the stuff on your pivot and lockup areas lol

Yeah I take the blade out and put it in a yogurt lid with heavy grease on the pivot hole and other areas where tolerances are needed.

RDT_20250808_095247234342569736002992~2.jpg

Rex45 took a much, much darker patina from it

PXL_20250227_232318217~4.jpg

I wonder what the difference is. I imagine the large amount of vanadium in the 15V keeps it from getting darker. It doesn't exactly skimp on the chromium either.

Screenshot_20250815-114846.png

Wow, that blade looks kinda nice. Also, how does vanadium stop it from getting darker?

[Mage7]

Gotta be careful with the rust removal stuff…


I think it was called ‘Rust-B-Gone’, some sort of acidic remover. I stuck a slightly sticky/rusty bicycle chain in there one day and forgot about it till the next. I was going to pull it out with a wire hook but for some reason it wasn’t coming out of the container.

So I decided to pour it out and instead of just the rust remover, out came hundreds of little chain links, pins, and plates all separated out! It ate away enough of the tolerance fit that the entire chain just fell apart.

Watch the stuff on your pivot and lockup areas lol

Yeah I take the blade out and put it in a yogurt lid with heavy grease on the pivot hole and other areas where tolerances are needed.

RDT_20250808_095247234342569736002992~2.jpg

Rex45 took a much, much darker patina from it

PXL_20250227_232318217~4.jpg

I wonder what the difference is. I imagine the large amount of vanadium in the 15V keeps it from getting darker. It doesn't exactly skimp on the chromium either.

Screenshot_20250815-114846.png

Wow, that blade looks kinda nice. Also, how does vanadium stop it from getting darker?

Not really sure, just guessing based on the fact that there's so much of it. I mean, even though compositionally there's only 15% vanadium, I believe the carbide volume is around 25%. Compared to Rex45 which is like 8%. So like literally just by volume there's less iron in the 15V to react with the acid.

But that's just a total guess

[LazyOutdoorsman]

Gotta be careful with the rust removal stuff…


I think it was called ‘Rust-B-Gone’, some sort of acidic remover. I stuck a slightly sticky/rusty bicycle chain in there one day and forgot about it till the next. I was going to pull it out with a wire hook but for some reason it wasn’t coming out of the container.

So I decided to pour it out and instead of just the rust remover, out came hundreds of little chain links, pins, and plates all separated out! It ate away enough of the tolerance fit that the entire chain just fell apart.

Watch the stuff on your pivot and lockup areas lol

Yeah I take the blade out and put it in a yogurt lid with heavy grease on the pivot hole and other areas where tolerances are needed.

RDT_20250808_095247234342569736002992~2.jpg

Rex45 took a much, much darker patina from it

PXL_20250227_232318217~4.jpg

I wonder what the difference is. I imagine the large amount of vanadium in the 15V keeps it from getting darker. It doesn't exactly skimp on the chromium either.

Screenshot_20250815-114846.png

Wow, that blade looks kinda nice. Also, how does vanadium stop it from getting darker?

Not really sure, just guessing based on the fact that there's so much of it. I mean, even though compositionally there's only 15% vanadium, I believe the carbide volume is around 25%. Compared to Rex45 which is like 8%. So like literally just by volume there's less iron in the 15V to react with the acid.

But that's just a total guess

Ah, that makes sense now that I think about it. Thanks

[Spyderfreek]

For me it has resisted a patina to the point of even cutting raw bloody steak hasn't caused a patina, or not a lasting one. I'll see a rainbow effect on the blade but even days later it just wipes off.

Rust is another story. My Shaman developed some pretty deep specks that did pit the steel and won't polish off and it was laying on a desk when it happened, no idea what got on it. I would treat it like any other non stainless, the most important thing being to clean it after using it.

The one thing I can't vouch for is humidity. It's hot as heck where I work but I spend a lot of time in an office these days so I can't say if it'll rust in your pocket. In the past I've had jobs outside in the heat and in all kinds of weather and I've even had S90V show spot rust on hot humid days just from body moisture. I have to assume it would be the same with 15V, so I'd just take some precautions like I do with other steels that I know will rust. Better safe than sorry.

I recently commented about edge degradation with some carbon steel, where the edge will dull just from corrosion. I've had that with K390 and Maxamet but haven't noticed it yet with 15V.

I basically work outside (in an open garage) and it's been extremely hot and humid this summer, to the point of me being fully soaked in sweat. I've been carrying and using my Manix 15v since I got it. I wipe the blade off (it gets pretty dirty from using it at work) with alcohol nightly and then wipe a thin film of mineral oil on it. Blade still looks brand new. I do this with all my tool steel knives and from my experience 15v seems much less reactive than k390 or maxamet.

In my experience with tool steels most reactive to least goes as follows:

M4
K390
Rex 45
10v
Maxamet
15v
Rex 121
Cruwear
D2