I did not use to sharpen often, but that is changing!

[Naperville]

Going down the sharpening rabbit hole! I bought some tools for sharpening knives and I will be buying more in 2024.

2 - 12 inch long ZWILLING diamond sharpening steels, one for the kitchen and one for field use.

1 - Work Sharp Professional Precision Adjust Knife Sharpener with 7 different grits.

1 - DMT W8EFNB 8" DuoSharp Bench Stone, Extra-Fine/Fine
1 - DMT W8FC-WB 8" DuoSharp Bench Stone with Base, Fine/Coarse
1 - DMT SR009 Non-Skid Mat, 10" x 4" DMT/Blue

1 - EZE-LAP Tapered Shaft for Serrated Blades - EZE-Fold Folding Handle

Next up, some Spyderco products.

[Wandering_About]

That's a pretty hefty investment in sharpening gear! I do recommend a humble strop of smooth leather and diamond compound (I use 1 micron myself).

Bring your patience if you have not tried freehand before. I'm something like 15 years into freehand and I think I'm kind of getting things figured out, sort of!

For field use I still use a spyderco double stuff, despite preferring diamond for most stuff. I did get a metallic bonded CBN stone in 1000 grit to try out but haven't used it enough to have a solid opinion. It's a lot more expensive than a double stuff, so not the ideal thing to just buy to try.

If you're not constantly dealing with high vanadium steels, stones of more traditional ceramic can be a lot of fun. Shapton, Naniwa, King, Suehiro... and that's just a start of good ones to try.

Here's a picture from a few years ago of some of my stones... there are more now! The Spyderco fine ceramic on the far right was my first sharpening stone (after a sharpmaker) purchased perhaps 2007 or 2008 or so.

[Naperville]

That's a pretty hefty investment in sharpening gear! I do recommend a humble strop of smooth leather and diamond compound (I use 1 micron myself).

Bring your patience if you have not tried freehand before. I'm something like 15 years into freehand and I think I'm kind of getting things figured out, sort of!

For field use I still use a spyderco double stuff, despite preferring diamond for most stuff. I did get a metallic bonded CBN stone in 1000 grit to try out but haven't used it enough to have a solid opinion. It's a lot more expensive than a double stuff, so not the ideal thing to just buy to try.

If you're not constantly dealing with high vanadium steels, stones of more traditional ceramic can be a lot of fun. Shapton, Naniwa, King, Suehiro... and that's just a start of good ones to try.

Here's a picture from a few years ago of some of my stones... there are more now! The Spyderco fine ceramic on the far right was my first sharpening stone (after a sharpmaker) purchased perhaps 2007 or 2008 or so.

Trying not to spend a fortune on sharpeneing gear but it isn't working!

I wanted a clamping system so I got one. I may end up with something better(Wicked Edge) if the Worksharp doesn't work out.

Yes, waterstones are on the list too. I have an old Arkansas white stone, I assume it is fine, been using it for years.

I see there is another thread in general chatting about the Spyderco tri-angle sharpmaker. I may buy that too. I prefer the look of the Spyderco Gauntlet ....looking to be able to sharpen everything including serrations, axes, ....

Will probably buy the 3 DMT tapered rod sharpeners for serrations too. Michael Christy swears by them.

[SpyderJunky]

This thread sounds like my doppelganger!
The exact same stuff plus more...( Couple ceramic rod setups and the little DMT double sided sharpeners with the surounding plastic handle (camping/wilderness use), tapered diamond pen-sized rods, strops diamond compound, etc...
Also purchased a sharp maker with four different sets of rods and the gallery V with fine and cbn rods.
My sharpmaker gets as much use as the rest combined. Except the strops wich get used a half dozen time between sharpenings on pocketknifes...
I mounted both the SharpMaker and the galley V on pieces of 1×4×15" off set on one end. This facilitates two-hand grip on the knife which helps me hold consistant verical hold on knife... And they get packed in a long plastic tupperware box to go on my fishing trips.

[Scandi Grind]

The last two years have been a pretty hard deep dive into Japanese sharpening stones and associated cutlery for me. It's been fun, frustrating, and rewarding all at the same time. I've been determined from the start to become proficient freehanding, and since getting water stones to become effective with those in particular. I have recently hit the milestone of being able to put a scrape shaving edge on virtually any knife, be it a $10 pocket knife or a $250 Gyuto, using any stone in my collection consisting of diamond plates and water stones ranging from #140 grit to #1200 grit. I have had fun lately making my axe and hatchet shave flawlessly.

The quest never ends with sharpening though. I know I can get more consistent and am always trying to get better, and in particular, lately I'm trying to get faster.

[Naperville]

This thread sounds like my doppelganger!
The exact same stuff plus more...( Couple ceramic rod setups and the little DMT double sided sharpeners with the surounding plastic handle (camping/wilderness use), tapered diamond pen-sized rods, strops diamond compound, etc...
Also purchased a sharp maker with four different sets of rods and the gallery V with fine and cbn rods.
My sharpmaker gets as much use as the rest combined. Except the strops wich get used a half dozen time between sharpenings on pocketknifes...
I mounted both the SharpMaker and the galley V on pieces of 1×4×15" off set on one end. This facilitates two-hand grip on the knife which helps me hold consistant verical hold on knife... And they get packed in a long plastic tupperware box to go on my fishing trips.

Good idea about the 1x4, might use it. I have a bench in the basement and with a clamp can do the sharpening when I need it.

Everything except using a wetstone is totally new to me.

I want to make sure to learn how to use all of the equipment, use garbage knives at first and get it all down. I cannot figure out what does or does not work without wasting a few dollars. My biggest fear is damaging a knife....on a wetstone it is easy enough to scratch the face of a blade while trying to hit an edge, that is why I bought a clamping system.

[Naperville]

The last two years have been a pretty hard deep dive into Japanese sharpening stones and associated cutlery for me. It's been fun, frustrating, and rewarding all at the same time. I've been determined from the start to become proficient freehanding, and since getting water stones to become effective with those in particular. I have recently hit the milestone of being able to put a scrape shaving edge on virtually any knife, be it a $10 pocket knife or a $250 Gyuto, using any stone in my collection consisting of diamond plates and water stones ranging from #140 grit to #1200 grit. I have had fun lately making my axe and hatchet shave flawlessly.

The quest never ends with sharpening though. I know I can get more consistent and am always trying to get better, and in particular, lately I'm trying to get faster.

You must be pretty good at using the stones! I had a Randall Model #14 that I learned on. I had to buy some insanely fine grits to polish the face of the blade sides because I scratched the face up on Arkansas stones. I know to go slow until I learn what I am doing.

Sharpening knives using these tools I figure is like any other hobby, and I have to take my time. I hope that I improve on whatever I buy from retail. I hope to use all of my knives and learn more about different steels.

[Scandi Grind]

You must be pretty good at using the stones! I had a Randall Model #14 that I learned on. I had to buy some insanely fine grits to polish the face of the blade sides because I scratched the face up on Arkansas stones. I know to go slow until I learn what I am doing.

Sharpening knives using these tools I figure is like any other hobby, and I have to take my time. I hope that I improve on whatever I buy from retail. I hope to use all of my knives and learn more about different steels.

I still feel like a noob really, Sal was right when he said the edge is a ghost. For something that humans have been doing since virtually the dawn of time, it seems funny how difficult it can be to tell what you are doing when attempting to form an edge. Working with softer axe steel was actually somewhat helpful in my sharpening journey. It is soft enough to sharpen with a file and much faster to manipulate than knife steel, so you get much faster feedback on what you are doing. Magnification is also super helpful, although even that took a bit of practice before I knew what I was seeing up close.

[Naperville]

You must be pretty good at using the stones! I had a Randall Model #14 that I learned on. I had to buy some insanely fine grits to polish the face of the blade sides because I scratched the face up on Arkansas stones. I know to go slow until I learn what I am doing.

Sharpening knives using these tools I figure is like any other hobby, and I have to take my time. I hope that I improve on whatever I buy from retail. I hope to use all of my knives and learn more about different steels.

I still feel like a noob really, Sal was right when he said the edge is a ghost. For something that humans have been doing since virtually the dawn of time, it seems funny how difficult it can be to tell what you are doing when attempting to form an edge. Working with softer axe steel was actually somewhat helpful in my sharpening journey. It is soft enough to sharpen with a file and much faster to manipulate than knife steel, so you get much faster feedback on what you are doing. Magnification is also super helpful, although even that took a bit of practice before I knew what I was seeing up close.

Ohhhh... thanks for reminding me to buy some magnification and Sharpies. I think that I have magnification here somewhere but I'll just order another loop.

[SpyderEdgeForever]

Naperville, Cold Steel is selling one of those handheld sharpeners that has folding handles that function like a balisong knife. Other companies havw made those, too. The ad for it claims it can be used to sharoen both plain edged and serrated knives. How effective or limited would that be compared to other types?

[Scandi Grind]

It should only be limited by two things I think. Size is the first thing, typically they are smaller than bench stones which can make things a little harder depending on the knife, particularly a long knife, and the second is just your skill at free handing. I don't have experience with serrated edges, so I can't comment on how well it is likely to work for that purpose.

[Naperville]

I do not think I have ever sharpened a serrated edge. Mostly just replaced the knife, so this will be new.

I am also concerned about sharpening blades over 1 foot. Never sharpened anything that large.

We will see what I can do. Time will tell.

[Naperville]

I do not live next to a knife retailer so I have to rely on YouTube videos.

Going to pick up a new Spyderco tri-angle sharpmaker today because it has 15 degree fixed angles for me to get the maximum out of my knives. I WANT VERY SHARP KNIVES.

What are the approximate grits of all of these Spyderco tri-angle sharpmaker stones?

Do you own the tri-angle sharpmaker cubic boron or diamond rods? How do you like them and what do you recommend? Should I buy all of them? I have a lot of different steels and want to be able to sharpen my knives quickly.

[Naperville]

One reason why I am looking at the Spyderco tri-angle sharpmaker is because I have knives that are above 9 inches in length. I think I need to use Japanese waterstones of something like the Spyderco tri-angle sharpmaker to sharpen them.

What do you use to sharpen your much better longer blades?

I have quite a few that I'd like to look at sharpening.

[Naperville]

WoooHoooo.... just ordered the following!

1 - Spyderco 204MF Tri-Angle Sharpmaker Complete Sharpening System
2 - Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker Ultra Fine Grit Rod - 204UF1
1 - Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker Cubic Boron Nitride Rods Set of 2 - 204CBN
1 - Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker Diamond Rods Set of 2 - 204D

Now I can sharpen my kukris and machetes!

[vivi]

Have fun! I'm one of the biggest sharpening nerds here. I've definitely spent more on sharpening supplies the past few years than knives.

some misc tips:

- DMT stones start off feeling MUCH more coarse and aggressive than they will after breaking them in. My Extra Fine left a rougher edge than my well worn Extra Coarse when it was new, as an example. The more you use them, the better they get for leaving a finished edge on a knife. I have a 25 year old fine DMT plate that is the easiest stone in the world to get shaving sharpness from for me. It's very, very smooth feeling but the diamonds are not ripped out at all. Couple strokes per side and the edges cleanly shave, every time. Looking forwars to when my EF is broken is enough to leave a finer edge.

- For sharpening really long knives, belt sander all day. It turns a 2 hour job into a 5 minute job. Yes, you can mess up a knife on a belt sander. You can mess them up on stones too. Just practice on some cheap kitchen knives and get a feel for it. It's not a difficult skill to pick up. I bought a harbor freight 1x30" sander to edge my machetes and I've used it on everything from pocket knives to chef knives to axes and shovels. I would never, ever go back to 100% manual sharpening.

- As for finishing longer blades, there's two approaches I use. At home I use the longest stones / abrasive I can. Longer blades require longer stones for the best results. In the field I keep the blades stationary and hit them with a folding DMT or Cold Steel sharpener.

- The sharpmaker is a great tool but there are certain things it excels at......and certain things it does not. They're great for quickly touching up medium to somewhat polished edges. They're a terrible choice for reprofiling or repairing heavy damage.....super inefficient compared to other options, even with diamond or cbn rods. I think of it less of a sharp maker and more of a sharp maintainer. If a knife is dull I don't reach for it. I reach for a 80-300 grit diamond plate, set a fresh bevel, get it shaving sharp off the coarse reprofiling stone, and only then consider moving to the SM to give it a more polished edge. If a knife is still fairly sharp but not at peak sharpness, the SM it perfect for that role (assuming you don't want a coarser or more polished edge than it can deliver).

- I'm a chef that owns a lot of hard, thin, japanese cutlery for work. I've tried a very wide range of japanese water stones. I am completely unimpressed by the results they've given me. Not only am I not impressed with the edges they give me VS my preferred combo of diamond plates and ceramic stones, they are incredibly inefficient. The time they require to soak I can already be done sharpening on diamonds and ceramics, and I never have to flatten my stones.

- You don't need to worry about this now Naperville, but even though sharpmaker stones don't really visibly wear, they do smooth out and break in over time. My five year old brown medium rods left a finish more comparable to the white fine rods when I bought my first replacement set of rods. Same thing five years later. Luckily I held on to the worn stones, and have been playing around with different grits of silicon carbide to refresh their surfaces. I took a set of mediums to some 80 grit carbide powder on a sheet of glass and they're noticeably more aggressive now.

- Something to keep in mind with any sharpening medium - if you can see bits of steel on the stone, it isn't giving you optimum performance. Once you start noticing this you'll see it everywhere. Just about every picture of a used sharpmakershows streaks of steel embedded in the stones. Now, you don't need to clean them every single use....just rotate them after a couple sharpenings and use a fresh side. Then once all sides are clogged, try bar keepers friend + a screen scrubbie and you can get them looking new.

- Light pressure is key. So many cooks and chefs think the opposite....that if they bear down hard on their sharpening rod and go fast and flashy they'll get better edges. Thw apex of a knife edge is incredibly thin. incredibly. There's no benefit to using great amounts of force but there's definitely draw backs. If you're dealing with a stubborn burr, this is always the first thing I'd question. How hard are you pushing? As a frame of reference everyone here can relate to, your finishing strokes when sharpening a knife should be so light that you can use the sharpmaker without securing it to anything or holding it in place on a regular slick counter top. If you can't do this without moving the sharpmaker your technique is sub-optimal because you're using too much force.

- SEF, the folding balisong style sharpeners are nice for field work. Regular bench stones are superior for home / shop use, but when I'm clearing trails with a machete I don't have a good spot to sit down and bust out my stones. I've tried DMT and Cold Steels. CS are half the price or less but a tad shorter IIRC and chinese made. DMT's are US made and come in a wider variety of grits. I actually used my CS folding sharpener today at work when one of our house knives was glancing off tomatoes and couldn't slice their skin. 10 strokes per side on the coarse side and it fixed that issue in less than 30 seconds. They don't work for serrations, they're rectangular stones. I have seen some from DMT meant for serrations but haven't tried them.

- Experiment with different grits! When I got my sharpmaker and DMT fine stone early in my sharpening days I used to think going to the highest polish I could was the way to give cutting tools the best edge I could. I was so, so wrong. So many cutting tools offer superior performance with 200-500 grit range edges. Even many of my culinary work knives are sharpened in this range, and the more polished ones are taken up to about 1,000-1,500 grit. I find severe diminishing returns polishing past that range, and edge retention degrades as grits increase for my uses. So while getting a clean, polished edge that push cuts receipts can feel amazing the first few times you do it, understand you're likely setting yourself up for having to sharpen the knife 4x as often as leaving it coarse. In some situations the trade off is worth it, but in most it isn't IMO.

- As far as Spyderco grits, look up the grand unified grit chart. https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/the ... rt.856708/ Going off memory I think the mediums are around 600-800, fines around 1,000-1,200, UF around 1,800-2,000, and the diamond rods around 400 grit. The ceramics definitely feel way finer than the same grit sandpaper though, trying to compare widely different mediums with one single number doesn't really tell the whole story. Stones that wear slow like SM rods and DMT's will also change their feel much more over time than a traditional stone that breaks down, exposing fresh abrasive.

- Don't underestimate sandpaper. It has a lot of uses here. Two things it's very nice for are convex edges and on the go touch ups. Clamp it to a cut section of those green foam camping pads and you're set for applying or sharpening convex edges. Fold a sheet of your preferred grit up into your wallet for field sharpening. You can even touch up serrated knives by wrapping the sandpaper around something with a hard edge like a ruler, or the corner of a counter top.

- reprofiling is a whole nother rabbit hole, most people are afraid to go down. Most people today have no idea how thin modern knife steels can be run without being too fragile for work. I literally drop the edge angle to half of what the factory set it to for most my knives, and the result is increased efficiency and cutting ability every time. I almost never see edge damage on my knives either, whether using a machete at 10dps / 15dps microbevel, a gyuto at 5dps no microbevel, or a hatchet at 12dps / @5dps microbevel.

This is a fun rabbit hole to go down. I've been a lot more interested in sharpening the past few years than knife collecting. Once you really know what you're doing with finishing grits, deburring, edge geometry

[cabfrank]

Excellent, comprehensive post!

[Naperville]

Wow! Thank you @vivi !

I have to read and reread that several times. I'll even copy it into my knife notes. Those notes will come in handy.

[Naperville]

Based on specifications and discussions here on the Spyderco Forum, I just ordered a Spyderco Galley-V Sharpener.

10 degrees per side!!!! Should be very good for kitchen knives.