They're 3D printed. Found the model over on thingiverse and printed them myself. Saves me a good bit of money for every mule vs paying an extra $50 a pop for the G10 scales, plus there's tons of color options in terms of filament. I just put the extra money towards more Spyderco's . Pretty sure it was a member here who designed this particular set.
Man, Im glad I asked. Ive been wanting to get into 3D printing... suggest a website to learn about 3D printers so I can get on the bandwagon?
There's a number of good channels on youtube that go through how to use all the software and such. 3D printing nerd, Teaching tech, Make with tech, CNC kitchen, etc. There's a lot more obviously, but those are some I can remember off the top of my head. In particular you'll want to learn how to use a "slicer" sw depending on which printer you end up going with. More of a visual person myself so it helps seeing how the sw is used. The slicer basically takes a model from a place like thingiverse, printables.com, or your own designed model, and converts it into a format your printer can understand called g-code which is printer-specific, unlike the STL files you can find on the aforementioned sites.
All3DP.com or matterhackers.com have a bunch of guides that are helpful, like common 3D printing issues. Hope that helps.
Man, Im glad I asked. Ive been wanting to get into 3D printing... suggest a website to learn about 3D printers so I can get on the bandwagon?
While you are gearing up, you can contact Josh Crutchley (the designer) or FullScaler (both on this forum) and see if they will print you a pair. FullScaler printed me a green set.
They're 3D printed. Found the model over on thingiverse and printed them myself. Saves me a good bit of money for every mule vs paying an extra $50 a pop for the G10 scales, plus there's tons of color options in terms of filament. I just put the extra money towards more Spyderco's . Pretty sure it was a member here who designed this particular set.
Man, Im glad I asked. Ive been wanting to get into 3D printing... suggest a website to learn about 3D printers so I can get on the bandwagon?
There's a number of good channels on youtube that go through how to use all the software and such. 3D printing nerd, Teaching tech, Make with tech, CNC kitchen, etc. There's a lot more obviously, but those are some I can remember off the top of my head. In particular you'll want to learn how to use a "slicer" sw depending on which printer you end up going with. More of a visual person myself so it helps seeing how the sw is used. The slicer basically takes a model from a place like thingiverse, printables.com, or your own designed model, and converts it into a format your printer can understand called g-code which is printer-specific, unlike the STL files you can find on the aforementioned sites.
All3DP.com or matterhackers.com have a bunch of guides that are helpful, like common 3D printing issues. Hope that helps.
I finally got my sample of K294. A tad late to the party, but I've been busy. Just put a standard G-10 scales on the model. I'll be testing this outside as well as kitchen duty. I really like Crucible's 10V's edge retention so it will be interesting to compare the performance from two different foundry's with the same chemistry. Something we don't get to do with too many steels. I have found that there are often differences even though they are supposed to be the same.
One of the advantages of the Mule samples is that a rare steel like K294, not often used by custom makers and hardly every used by factories, is available at all. Just being able to get a "piece of the stuff", ready to use, in a very functional format, is not a common opportunity. I think this steel would be a excellent material for Ed Schempp's "Rock" design.
Competition, I see....
I think I won again, but the gap is getting smaller and smaller ! Next race might be my undoing !
You got me by Less than 24hrs….can’t complain as it’s usually a week after you. I know if I lived in Sydney or Melbourne I would have had you by 3 days. Funny how postage from the US fluctuates from anything from 5 to 20 days. With 20 the norm….
(no duty for me though )
Im a vegetarian as technically cows are made of grass and water.
201 left! Excited to try it out! Thanks to everyone for cluing me in on how you actually order these--I had no idea they were in-stock and I thought I'd be waiting for the next run. Kudos to Spyderco customer service that helped me switch from AEB-L after I'd already ordered, too.
201 left! Excited to try it out! Thanks to everyone for cluing me in on how you actually order these--I had no idea they were in-stock and I thought I'd be waiting for the next run. Kudos to Spyderco customer service that helped me switch from AEB-L after I'd already ordered, too.
Wow! Didn’t realize there were so many left. Crazy that people are sleeping on a such a value for such a compelling steel in this platform. I haven’t tried 10V in any form, but the K294 Mule has become a favorite of mine for fine but hard-wearing edges.
Wow that many still available. I kinda wanted to get the spy27 mule next but having to throw out 8 grand for the emergency surgeries my wife needed has halted my knife budget. I sure hope I get to hear honest feedback from actual user experience with this one.
Only 65 left now. And i also snagged the last of the T15 so i wouldnt have to pay shipping.
"Nothing is built on stone; all is built on sand, but we must build as if the sand were stone."
Wow that many still available. I kinda wanted to get the spy27 mule next but having to throw out 8 grand for the emergency surgeries my wife needed has halted my knife budget. I sure hope I get to hear honest feedback from actual user experience with this one.
Only 65 left now. And i also snagged the last of the T15 so i wouldnt have to pay shipping.
That 1 T15 has lingered for a couple of weeks and it was all I could do not to buy it glad it found a good home!
-Larry
Hebrews 13:6 So we may boldly say: “The Lord is my helper; I will not fear. What can man do to me?”
MNOSD #0049
Wow that many still available. I kinda wanted to get the spy27 mule next but having to throw out 8 grand for the emergency surgeries my wife needed has halted my knife budget. I sure hope I get to hear honest feedback from actual user experience with this one.
Only 65 left now. And i also snagged the last of the T15 so i wouldnt have to pay shipping.
That 1 T15 has lingered for a couple of weeks and it was all I could do not to buy it glad it found a good home!
Thanks dude I appreciate that. I'm probably gonna test the k294 first tho. I still am shooting for the HIC mule today as well. But I want to put k294 thru some work first to get a good idea of what it can do. To me it was very high praise from Sal to imagine this steel on the Schempp rock. As far as I'm aware that design won 5 cutting competitions in a row for Mr Ed Schempp.
"Nothing is built on stone; all is built on sand, but we must build as if the sand were stone."
Could someone explain to me what a cutting competition is exactly? How they work and whatnot? I'm assuming this is something at like blade show ? Basically I guess my question is.. is it a real thing or is it like Forged in fire type? And no I'm not asking if it's a CATRA test accurate level deal, I don't think people would find two CATRA tests interesting to watch hahaha.
Thanks dude I appreciate that. I'm probably gonna test the k294 first tho. I still am shooting for the HIC mule today as well. But I want to put k294 thru some work first to get a good idea of what it can do. To me it was very high praise from Sal to imagine this steel on the Schempp rock. As far as I'm aware that design won 5 cutting competitions in a row for Mr Ed Schempp.
Hope ya get one and like it
J
I think you’re probably talking about Bladesports, which is a basically a series of back to back cutting tasks done in a timed competition. If you search for it you’ll find plenty of info. Everyone has to use a knife built within certain parameters, which off the top of my head I think are 2” max blade height, 10” max blade length, 5” max handle length, and a forward lanyard is required.
I only know this because I made one of these built to spec knives, known as a Competition Chopper, just for fun a few years back. I’ve honestly had a ton of fun chopping the **** out of everything with it. Mine is made from 1/4” thick 80crv2 with a slightly convex zero grind with a Sapele handle. Here’s a pic for you-
Amateur maker of folding knives and addicted to modding Spyderco knives
I cut off the factory edge, and put 1 of my own. The burr cut off very easily from what I saw. The result was only 190 however I usually see a performance increase in more testing. I believe my 10V pm2 and Para 3 both hit 375 when it hit their peak. The magnacut I tested hits 350/360 so I'd like to see this k294 hit higher.
"Nothing is built on stone; all is built on sand, but we must build as if the sand were stone."
After 3 to 4 edges performance hits a plateau. Happens on every production folder I have ever tested. Sometimes happens on customs/midtech if I chose to cut test them or not. Most armchair quarterback reviewers read the script from the same fortune cookie anyways. Right now we haven't reached the peak performance just yet.
Cutting the edge off means swiping the apex across the stone. It creates a flat across the entire length of the edge. I use water on the stone as well as dipping the knife in a cup of water mixed with a few drops of dish soap.
I stick with a 1k edge for testing unless I'm trying to mythbust falsehoods I've read here. I only test my edges from the stone, no strops. Some steels/models I prefer with a different edge finish but I let the 1k be my standard.
"Nothing is built on stone; all is built on sand, but we must build as if the sand were stone."