Chaparral

[Wartstein]

Would love to see a Chaparral with Blue Denim Canvas Micarta scales.


...

Beautiful scales! I´d buy a Chap in that configuration in a heartbeat.

[RamZar]

It has been over two years since the last Chaparral model (Birdseye Maple Wood) came out in January 2021.

And that despite there are "two lanes" now

- The original Chaparral concept (displaying different handle materials)
- The lightweight as a platform for all kinds of variants (according to Sal) - so blade shape? Steel? Edge configuration? Colors?

Thus far, the Chaparral line has been all about showcasing handle materials. This has also meant Plain Edge Satin XHP (except for the initial S30V) and back lock. However, it seems like we may see changes in all that. The Sage line started out as showcasing different locking mechanisms but eventually that too was abandoned.

[Dazen]

I would love to see a real CF Chaparral, and marbled and dark matter look great!

I would also love to see Side/Cross Cut CF in the Chaparral.

Did a quick mockup in Photoshop -- honestly looks the cross-cut CF is very clean and classy and would fit the ethos of the knife: a gentlemans knife for showing off handle materials.



In addition, I'd still love to see a "Smooth" FRN variant (same pattern as the UKPK, Pingo, Urban, etc.) as well as basic, no-frills Titanium and G10 version; the LW is great, but would love some more "plain jane" variants since its an incredible tool.

Wow, great job! That would be a dream of a knife and a true gentleman’s carry!

[CrustyOtter]

I haven't noticed this thread before, but glad I did now.
Being quite pragmatic when it comes to knives, the current LW/Grey FRN will be pretty hard to beat for my preferences.

If I could wish for a version deviating from the stated objective of the platform, me and my wallet would be very open to a k390 wharncliffe with blue canvas micarta scales.

I love my Chaparral LW, excellent fit & finish in a compact little package. I carry mine when I need a gentleman's folder. A version in K390 with blue canvas micarta would be an instant buy for me, that's how I set up my K390 PM2.

edit: No idea how I missed the Wharncliffe comment but I'd absolutely buy one it that configuration. My latest buy is the K390 D4 Wharncliffe and I really, really like this knife. It carries well in the pocket, fits my hand perfectly and it's my preferred blade length for edc use. A similarly configured Chaparral with blue canvas or denim micarta would be outstanding.

[Cl1ff]

Salt Chaparall for testing various handle materials that could be useful/functional on Salt Knives?

[weeping minora]

I would be up for the lightweight platform branching out and featuring different steels, or perhaps even the still-in-the-works, slipit model .

I'll be a proponent for AEB-L, or the 19c27 sal mentioned recently acquiring. Hopefully the Mule provides enough benefit to ELUs to make this a possibility, because the steel would really shine within the Chaparral platform.

[JB in SC]

I got the FRN version this week. A nice knife but it is very thin. The lock is a bit hard to disengage but will get better with use.

[Fly Fishing Rick]

I got the FRN version this week. A nice knife but it is very thin. The lock is a bit hard to disengage but will get better with use.

The thin blade is one of the best parts! The lock on mine never got any softer until I did something about it, if you ever take the knife apart, take the time to move the lock "spring" forward just a bit out of it's seat. If you ever do it, just make sure you don't move it too far forward or your blade could hit it while it's closed, just check to be sure before putting things back together. I noticed an immediate difference after changing mine.

[CrustyOtter]

I got the FRN version this week. A nice knife but it is very thin. The lock is a bit hard to disengage but will get better with use.

The thin blade is one of the best parts! The lock on mine never got any softer until I did something about it, if you ever take the knife apart, take the time to move the lock "spring" forward just a bit out of it's seat. If you ever do it, just make sure you don't move it too far forward or your blade could hit it while it's closed, just check to be sure before putting things back together. I noticed an immediate difference after changing mine.

That's a great tip, I might try that myself. Thanks!

[olditguy]

I got the FRN version this week. A nice knife but it is very thin. The lock is a bit hard to disengage but will get better with use.

The thin blade is one of the best parts! The lock on mine never got any softer until I did something about it, if you ever take the knife apart, take the time to move the lock "spring" forward just a bit out of it's seat. If you ever do it, just make sure you don't move it too far forward or your blade could hit it while it's closed, just check to be sure before putting things back together. I noticed an immediate difference after changing mine.

I've done this and it worked great. Much nicer now.

[twinboysdad]

I held out for a long time on this model, concerned it was too thin. The FFG D4 convinced me thin (used properly) is where it is at for EDC. I have the LW Chap and it is a laser

[kobold]

I will sound boring, but I would like plain jane stonewashed titanium scales. And more wood, amboina, yew, cedar burl, they are all beautiful. More natural materials in general and less petrochemicals.

[Wartstein]

I held out for a long time on this model, concerned it was too thin. The FFG D4 convinced me thin (used properly) is where it is at for EDC. I have the LW Chap and it is a laser

... "used properly" can actually be "used pretty hard" with the Chap.
As I always like to point out: It's 2mm, but broad XHP leaf blade can take a lot more than some people seem to think.

[endura3]

I held out for a long time on this model, concerned it was too thin. The FFG D4 convinced me thin (used properly) is where it is at for EDC. I have the LW Chap and it is a laser

... "used properly" can actually be "used pretty hard" with the Chap.
As I always like to point out: It's 2mm, but broad XHP leaf blade can take a lot more than some people seem to think.

Great point! I think between the manufacturing precision, internal stop pin, and broad leaf blade design, it's a much tougher all-around folder than people expect given the size.

[Wartstein]

I held out for a long time on this model, concerned it was too thin. The FFG D4 convinced me thin (used properly) is where it is at for EDC. I have the LW Chap and it is a laser

... "used properly" can actually be "used pretty hard" with the Chap.
As I always like to point out: It's 2mm, but broad XHP leaf blade can take a lot more than some people seem to think.

Great point! I think between the manufacturing precision, internal stop pin, and broad leaf blade design, it's a much tougher all-around folder than people expect given the size.

I actually KNOW it is: Used and tested my Chap pretty hard in folding knife terms.

It is really a little tank (extremely sturdy built for how thin it is) with a strong, enough, but still slicey blade. 2 mm stock in such a broad leaf blade is a wise choice imo for such s small folder.

Anyway, there is actually no folder task that I do with any of my other folders that I would not do with the Chap concerning my "hard use".

[JB in SC]

I got the FRN version this week. A nice knife but it is very thin. The lock is a bit hard to disengage but will get better with use.

The thin blade is one of the best parts! The lock on mine never got any softer until I did something about it, if you ever take the knife apart, take the time to move the lock "spring" forward just a bit out of it's seat. If you ever do it, just make sure you don't move it too far forward or your blade could hit it while it's closed, just check to be sure before putting things back together. I noticed an immediate difference after changing mine.

I prefer a thin blade, the handle itself is almost too thin, but fits the intended use.

The lock requires a deeper push to disengage. In the course of a day I don’t usually notice it. Thanks for the suggestion.

[JB in SC]

Moving the spring slightly forward worked quite well. Entire process took maybe ten minutes including fresh lube. Thanks again!

[Wartstein]

....

....The lock on mine never got any softer until I did something about it, if you ever take the knife apart, take the time to move the lock "spring" forward just a bit out of it's seat. If you ever do it, just make sure you don't move it too far forward or your blade could hit it while it's closed, just check to be sure before putting things back together. I noticed an immediate difference after changing mine.

For those who might not be too familiar with disassembling knives (so NOT you obviously, FlyFishingRick ):

Here viewtopic.php?f=2&t=80687#p1253309 is a post and pics (both not by me, but cptdean!) that show what has to be done to "soften the lock (I personally never felt the need for that on my particular Chap though)

[Fly Fishing Rick]

....

....The lock on mine never got any softer until I did something about it, if you ever take the knife apart, take the time to move the lock "spring" forward just a bit out of it's seat. If you ever do it, just make sure you don't move it too far forward or your blade could hit it while it's closed, just check to be sure before putting things back together. I noticed an immediate difference after changing mine.

For those who might now be too familiar with disassembling knives (so NOT you obviously, FlyFishingRick ):

Here viewtopic.php?f=2&t=80687#p1253309 is a post and pics (both not by me, but cptdean!) that show what has to be done to "soften the lock (I personally never felt the need for that on my particular Chap though)

Thanks for adding that, I couldn't recall where I had read about it initially. I wouldn't have needed to do mine either but figured why not, since I had it apart for other reasons anyway.

[JB in SC]

I’d like one in thin G-10 with the standard three screw clip, yes I’m a Luddite…