Sharpening and bladeprotection.
Re: Sharpening and bladeprotection.
Hey guys just wanted to add something here those of you using the diamond rods that have not experienced the CBN rods might want to consider getting them I have found them to be much better. Yes I have used Diamond rods in the Sharpmaker.
Re: Sharpening and bladeprotection.
Wartstein wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 12:26 pm
As said I personally don´t mind scratches of whatever origin on my blades at all anyway.
But when sharpening SE, the Sharpmaker can scratch up one side of the blade, when using certain methods - like the one I use, where I remove the burr on the non scallop side by holding the blade almost flat to the rod, so that the factory steep (SE) chisel grind is preserved as much as possible.
You are right. On serrated edges I hold the non-scallop side close to the rod in a very steep angle. A method I learned here from vivi if i am not mistaken. Scratches are indeed more obvious this way. And the black DLC on my pacific salt makes it more visible. I don’t care either. When the honeymoon phase of a new buy is over I use them where they were made for…
Re: Sharpening and bladeprotection.
Hmm sounds like sound marriage advice I will remember this.Danvp wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 2:55 pmWartstein wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 12:26 pm
As said I personally don´t mind scratches of whatever origin on my blades at all anyway.
But when sharpening SE, the Sharpmaker can scratch up one side of the blade, when using certain methods - like the one I use, where I remove the burr on the non scallop side by holding the blade almost flat to the rod, so that the factory steep (SE) chisel grind is preserved as much as possible.
You are right. On serrated edges I hold the non-scallop side close to the rod in a very steep angle. A method I learned here from vivi if i am not mistaken. Scratches are indeed more obvious this way. And the black DLC on my pacific salt makes it more visible. I don’t care either. When the honeymoon phase of a new buy is over I use them where they were made for…
- Brock O Lee
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- Location: Victoria, Australia
Re: Sharpening and bladeprotection.
I use a combination of Edge Pro Apex, DMT stones, and Sharpmaker.
EP with diamond stones for reprofiling V-bevels
DMT's freehand occasionally
SM for micro bevels
I stopped taping blades since I started using the EP with diamond stones. The OEM waterstones creates an abrasive slurry that will quickly scratch a non-taped blade. No taping for the others.
I am relaxed about scratches because I use most of my knives. I try not to scratch them on purpose but if it happens so be it.
EP with diamond stones for reprofiling V-bevels
DMT's freehand occasionally
SM for micro bevels
I stopped taping blades since I started using the EP with diamond stones. The OEM waterstones creates an abrasive slurry that will quickly scratch a non-taped blade. No taping for the others.
I am relaxed about scratches because I use most of my knives. I try not to scratch them on purpose but if it happens so be it.
Hans
Favourite Spydies: Military S90V, PM2 Cruwear, Siren LC200N, UKPK S110V, Endela Wharncliffe K390
Others: Victorinox Pioneer, CRK: L Sebenza, L Inkosi, Umnumzaan
Favourite Spydies: Military S90V, PM2 Cruwear, Siren LC200N, UKPK S110V, Endela Wharncliffe K390
Others: Victorinox Pioneer, CRK: L Sebenza, L Inkosi, Umnumzaan
Re: Sharpening and bladeprotection.
I have been recently developing my sharpening skills and significantly upgraded up kit to that end.
The Sharpmaker is seriously neat for serrations, although I think it’s possible to use the corners of some stones with good results too. I particularly like the CBN rods.
I have the same progression for Spyderco stones and rods, for consistency.
The Spyderco CBN plate is also great. Very rough, but I like prickly edges and I’ve been getting much better edges than before. I still need to work on technique and I haven’t tackled reprofiling for “perfect” edge angles.
I find that the slight convexing I get actually does just enough to make a tougher apex that can better handle the abusive stuff I put some knives through, especially for the chisel ground serrations.
I would still like to get more consistent with my off hand and/or “off direction” with the same hand.
That said, hair shaving is very quick and easy, even right off CBN and a light refinement with the brown medium ceramic is about as sharp as I need with the aggression I like. Sometimes don’t even go to the strop or ceramic.
I usually like to take as little metal off at a time and any scratches aren’t common or usually a concern for me. I just go slow and careful if it is.
I’ve particularly enjoyed sharpening LC200N and Spy27, but VG10 and BD1N have been nice. I’ll be doing some s30v and 15V from Spyderco soon and I don’t expect to have an issues.
Some high carbon steel slip joints I have are so far the only time I’ve had the whole bur just pop away, but that was also with my old crude kit of very beaten stones.
The Sharpmaker is seriously neat for serrations, although I think it’s possible to use the corners of some stones with good results too. I particularly like the CBN rods.
I have the same progression for Spyderco stones and rods, for consistency.
The Spyderco CBN plate is also great. Very rough, but I like prickly edges and I’ve been getting much better edges than before. I still need to work on technique and I haven’t tackled reprofiling for “perfect” edge angles.
I find that the slight convexing I get actually does just enough to make a tougher apex that can better handle the abusive stuff I put some knives through, especially for the chisel ground serrations.
I would still like to get more consistent with my off hand and/or “off direction” with the same hand.
That said, hair shaving is very quick and easy, even right off CBN and a light refinement with the brown medium ceramic is about as sharp as I need with the aggression I like. Sometimes don’t even go to the strop or ceramic.
I usually like to take as little metal off at a time and any scratches aren’t common or usually a concern for me. I just go slow and careful if it is.
I’ve particularly enjoyed sharpening LC200N and Spy27, but VG10 and BD1N have been nice. I’ll be doing some s30v and 15V from Spyderco soon and I don’t expect to have an issues.
Some high carbon steel slip joints I have are so far the only time I’ve had the whole bur just pop away, but that was also with my old crude kit of very beaten stones.
rex121 is the king of steel, but nature’s teeth have been cutting for hundreds of millions of years and counting :cool:
Re: Sharpening and bladeprotection.
Another vote of confidence for CBN, both the double-sided plate and the Sharpmaker rods. The CBN grit seems better bonded to the steel triangles than the diamond is to the diamond rods.
Re: Sharpening and bladeprotection.
Since it is becoming available, I’m also pretty eager to try the Webfoot, which is a CBN Goldenstone.
There used to be a diamond plated version from Byrd too. I want to track one down, but I’ve had no luck so far.
They seem like a great portable sharpening system, especially for serrations.
There used to be a diamond plated version from Byrd too. I want to track one down, but I’ve had no luck so far.
They seem like a great portable sharpening system, especially for serrations.
rex121 is the king of steel, but nature’s teeth have been cutting for hundreds of millions of years and counting :cool:
Re: Sharpening and bladeprotection.
About the old I mean very old Byrd Diamond webfoot....
Ducking...
I liked mine so much I threw it in the trash last week for the space in my toolbox.
If the CBN version is anything like the rods it should be great.
Ducking...
I liked mine so much I threw it in the trash last week for the space in my toolbox.
If the CBN version is anything like the rods it should be great.
Re: Sharpening and bladeprotection.
Masking tape to protect the blade.
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SaltyCaribbeanDfly
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- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2022 8:05 am
- Location: Atlanta,Georgia USA Earth
Re: Sharpening and bladeprotection.
Apollo - you ain’t the only one…I scratched the sh.. outa my Caribbean’s tip section on it’s first sharpeningapollo wrote: ↑Fri Feb 17, 2023 5:27 amGuys just out of interest.
What do you all use to sharpen youre spydies?
And how do you protect you're blades from scratching them up while you are doing it?
Myself i mainly use the Sharpmaker along with the ken onion worksharp.
Now the sharpmaker it self is offcoarse easily used without any chance of scratching the blade. And its superb for keeping a knife perfectly sharp , But when i need to reprofile a knife i am sorry to say this Spyderco but it just isn't it for me. (Even have the diamond stones and even with those it feels like years before you are done)
So there for i bought the worksharp and the thing does an amazing job but allas its a tool that scratches up the blade if you are in a lazy mood and forget to tape up the entire blade.
So i wonder what do you guys use and do any of you have a better way to protect you're blades then taping the thing up all the time?
Not that i have something against scratches on the knives that i use but sharpening scratches anoy me more then those made by everyday use for some reason.![]()
where's the closestCaribbean-1st sharpening

Just got this yesterday afternoon
Re: Sharpening and bladeprotection.
Admittedly, I’m mostly interested in the Byrd version for the Byrd history and dinosaur marketing themes. I never really though of myself as a collector, but I’ve taken an interest in getting at least a few Byrd products with those themes.
rex121 is the king of steel, but nature’s teeth have been cutting for hundreds of millions of years and counting :cool: