Anyone use a Straight razor/Artist Club razor/Shavette razor?

[jpm2]

It's encouraging to know the Colling is shaving well. Mine stills shows to be in Brisbane.

As for the devil razor, don't worry, it would not left my possession as it was without destroying it.
After chopping it down and grinding away on a very coarse stone for longer than I care to admit, the geometry now just barely passes. The last thing to deal with was fixing the floppy handle. The only way to do it and keep a folding blade is straighten the pivot hole by drilling it oversize and making new scales.
I didn't want to mess with that, so made it a fixed blade.

[Doc Dan]

I actually like the looks of that. It is sort of primitive Japanese from China. For my second pass, I use my straights more like a fixed so that is appealing.

[jpm2]

Thanks, it was spur of the moment while deciding whether to trash it, seasoned horse apple. I left the bark because it was good and tight. Also, I've never tried tung oil on barked wood, so thought it would be a good experiment. Pictured is raw wood. It's sitting right now with the 1st coat.

It's kinda growing on me already.

[Doc Dan]

Continuing with the discussion, we now turn to the actual shaving.

Part 2: The Shave

1] Map your beard. The first thing that needs to be done is to get to know your face. Map your beard, that is, find out the directions your whiskers grow (If you head shave, do this to your head, also). Start with two or three days growth of beard and with your fingers find out which way the hair grows on different parts of your face. Some people even have the left and right sides growing in different directions! You will want to note which way the grain flows on what parts. That with the grain (WTG) is the direction the hair lays or grows. If your hair grows down, this is the North to South direction. Against the grain (ATG) is the exact opposite of the way the hair lays or the direction in which it grows. If your hair grows down, this is the South to North direction up your neck and face. Across the grain (XTG) is the direction that goes across the way the hair lays or grows. If your hair grows down towards the South, then this would be the East-West direction. Knowing this will help you get the smoothest shave. Please note, it takes experience to shave East to West or West to East on the face or neck. Don’t rush the learning curve.

[Doc Dan]

2] Preparation is a big part of having a good shaving experience. First, carefully wipe off any oil or petroleum jelly from the blade with a cloth or tissue, being careful not to touch the delicately sharp edge. Strop the razor an additional twenty to thirty times (unless one stropped it forty to fifty times previously). Every time before one shaves the razor needs to be carefully stropped. This can be done after the shave all at one time, or it can be divided, part of the stropping before the shave and part of the stropping after the shave.

Next, either take a shower, making sure to wash your face and letting your beard soak up water, or soak a wash cloth in very warm water and hold the dripping cloth to the face for a couple of minutes. Don’t use very hot water as this can leech the oils out of the beard and face, leaving them dry and not as soft. Some people recommend cold or room temperature water. One wants to make sure one’s face has received plenty of water as this will help the soap work better and make the hairs easier to cut. Wash the face with a good hydrating soap before soaking the beard in the shower or with the wet cloth. This will help loosen the hairs, remove dirt and sweat and help one’s hair to be softer and more pliant.

One should make certain that the face is wet and does not dry out. If the face dries out before lathering, apply more water.

[Doc Dan]

Next is Lathering. In simple terms, this is agitating the soap until it foams. Creams in a tube are the easiest to learn to lather. Creams such as La Toja need only a thumbnail sized dollop of soap in the bottom of a shaving bowl. One then wets the brush and gives three light shakes to rid the brush of excess water. Then, the brush is inserted into the soap and one begins to swirl the brush around, at first only using the tips to build lather. Some like to splay the brush after a bit and stir more vigorously and this does make a fast lather. If the lather is bubbly and watery, it needs to be stirred a lot more. Continue to stir until the lather is thick, like natural yogurt, or close to it. Taking the brush, one then begins to paint it on the face and neck using back and forth strokes. Do this until a thick, rich lasting lather covers all of the areas to be shaved.

Another method is to put the soap on the brush directly and lather on the face and neck. Some like this better than a bowl, but using the bowl is a lot less messy and it is easy to see the quality of the lather.

Using a soap from a puck or soap contained in a flat tin or jar is similar. One puts water over the top of the soap and lets it sit while showering. Then, once out of the shower, pour off the water. Some like to use this water to hydrate the face. After shaking out the brush a little, start stirring the brush, like stirring a pot of stew vigorously, on the soap itself. Soon a thick lather will result. One can then either continue to lather on the soap, lather on the face, or move the brush to the bowl and lather there. Lathering on the soap is quite easy and a good rich lather can be attained in a short time. Once there is a good lather, begin to paint it on the face and neck like painting a barn door until all of the areas to be shaved are covered in a dense, thick lather. If there is not enough soap, one can always return to the puck and get more soap.

Some people like to use a preshave before lathering the face. Some claim it helps the shave and some say it is unhelpful. Some preshaves are of good quality and some are not. It is an oil applied to the skin to sit under the lather so the razor theoretically glides better over the face. If one has oily skin, perhaps it would be best to forgo this and just prepare the face well as given above.

[Doc Dan]

3] Shaving is a comforting thing. It is normal to be nervous when shaving with a straight razor the first time. Don’t worry. If the proper measures are taken one will not cut one’s face off. Quite the contrary, one will get a glorious shave and will feel euphoric afterwards.

The common straight razor is a friction folder, so there is nothing holding blade or handle into position but one’s hand. Hold your razor in whatever way is easiest for you. There is no right or wrong way. However, there are some methods that have proven themselves over centuries of time and keep good control of the handle to keep it from flopping around.
These pictures are from the document, Traditional SR Shaving Instructions for Beginners available as a free download on the internet.

Three fingers on the tang/shank, one on the tang hook, with the handle pointed upwards between the ring and little fingers. The thumb is under the tang/shank pinching it.


Two fingers on the tang/shank and one on the tang hook. The thumb is under the shank/tang in a pinch hold. The handle points up between the middle and ring fingers.


One finger on the tang, the handle pointing up between the pointer and middle finger. The middle finger rests on the tang hook. The thumb is in a pinch hold.

For some types of strokes one may want the handle pointing downwards, but the idea is the same, to maintain control of the blade and the handle. Hold the razor in whichever manner is the most comfortable, but don’t be afraid to experiment. Change up as you need to do so.


For some strokes, such as against the grain going South to North, holding the razor like a Kamisori is liked by some. The fingers and thumb pinch hold on the sides of the tang.
Whatever the method, always hold the tang, also called the shank, and not the handle, or the razor blade will flop and cut the skin.

Some people recommend using both hands, right and left, when shaving. Other people use only their dominant hand to shave. Either is fine and neither is necessarily superior to the other. Using two hands makes some types of strokes easier, but using only the dominant hand makes others easier. It is one’s own choice.

Always start the shave in the same place to develop muscle memory. Most commonly, this will be on one side of the face under the sideburn or even with the top of the ear, depending on hair style. Lay the blade FLAT on one’s face and then raise the spine 1 to 1 ½ spine widths off of the skin. This will be about 15° to 20°. This is different from the 30° required for a safety razor. A straight razor cuts best and smoother from these angles.

Make a short stroke about a half inch/1.27cm long, and then another at the end of that stroke. Do not put pressure, only using the weight of the razor. The blade, if properly honed, will cut easily and it alone should be enough. Don’t hold it so lightly that the razor comes off of the face or skips. It should remain in contact with the skin throughout the shave stroke. However, light pressure and smooth strokes will result in a close, smooth shave.

[Doc Dan]

One thing I didn't mention is that it is normal to sweat profusely when first learning to shave with a straight razor. It is rather intense at first, for most people.

[jpm2]

At first it’s pretty tedious, especially if the razor isn’t honed properly, but it gets more relaxed with practice.
It was 6 months or so before I started consistently getting really good close and comfortable shaves. This was about the time I started getting my shave technique and honing/stropping dialed in, and has got better ever since.

[Doc Dan]

Straight razor blades come in different configurations. Here are the parts of a straight razor:


The jumping may be either on the top or bottom of the tang, or both.

The toe is the front edge and may be pointed or rounded. The point is the front end of the razor.

The spine (top of the blade) is followed by the shoulders, which are the widest part of the razor blade. German makers often measure the size from the shoulder and Americans and others from the spine. So, for example, a Ralf Aust German made razor is measured from the shoulder and his 5/8 blade is actually 6/8 total, whereas an American made razor that says 5/8 is measured from the spine and is 5/8 total. see below



The square point is sometimes called the American point. The Spanish point and barber's point have a notch where some barbers put their finger when doing fine detail work. I think the Spanish point just looks cool and I have one, but mine is a slightly rounded off, not as much as a barber's point, but enough to be safer and more comfortable. The round point is the safest blade style and is what is usually recommended for beginners, though a lot of advanced shavers prefer this style.



Here are the most common blade sizes. Next to the 6/8 one may find a 13/16 marking and a 7/8 marked as 15/16, instead. Most of my razors are 6/8. The Japanese razor is measured from the spine, the French and the Australian razors are measured from the shoulder. The Chinese 5/8 is measured from the spine.

Here is a site I found with helpful information: https://www.nakedarmor.com/blogs/news/h ... ight-razor

[Doc Dan]

4] The Post Shave. Once the shave is completed, use cold water to wash all of the soap and its residue off of one’s face. Cold water, as in tap water cold, not refrigerator cold, will firm the skin and help the whiskers to retreat to their normal status. Rinse the face fully and then pat dry. Don’t rub as that stretches the skin in ways that may have detrimental effects years later.

Once dry, splash on some witch hazel. Witch hazel is an astringent that will constrict the skin on the face and neck. This acts like a skin toner. It closes the pores opened up by the hot water and shaving. It is germicidal and will help kill bacteria. These two things, toning and killing germs, prevent blackheads and pimples. Alcohol can damage, dry out, or further damage skin, but witch hazel won’t do those things. If it has aloe vera or something in it, it will soften the skin, too. Witch hazel will also act as an anti-inflammatory and remove redness and irritation.

Following this, apply some after shave balm of good quality to moisturize the face and neck. A good quality body or face lotion will work, as well.

[Doc Dan]

Let's talk a bit about blade grinds.



Here you can see two full hollow ground blades that have a horizontal stabilizer ground into the blade. This is also called a belly. This helps stiffen the otherwise slightly flexible thin blade. You can see next to them a full or extra hollow grind and a wedge grind.

My S.K. Colling has this stabilizer, though it is slight, and it shaves nice and comfortably. It doesn't have a shoulder or vertical stabilizer (see post above). My Thiers Issard has a shoulder or a vertical stabilizer, but is extra hollow and has no horizontal stabilizer. It shaves very well, but if I lift the razor too much it can be a little harsh to let me know my angle isn't right.



Here, you can see, looking end on, various blade grinds, full, quarter, etc. You can even see a frame back, which is a very thin, flat blade with a frame mounted to the spine to stiffen and strengthen the blade. You can see a near wedge and a true wedge, also. Think about a Spyderco with a full flat grind and one with a very, very slight hollow grind. This makes for very stiff and unforgiving blades, but they will cut through even the thickest beard.

All of my razors are full hollow ground. It isn't that I think the others aren't any good, it is that I have no experience with them. Some of you probably do. I started with a hollow ground and stayed with what I knew. (My favorite hunting/skinning knife is a high, thin hollow grind and boy does it cut! Only my points and the lengths of my blades vary.

[Doc Dan]

I have three razors and they are in the first three grinds on this picture. A bellied hollow (slight horizontal stabilizer and no vertical stabilizer) (Australian), an extra hollow (French), and a full hollow (Japanese). All are 6/8, but the AUS and the French measure from the shoulder, which means the over all width is 7/8. The Japanese is a true 6/8 as measured from the top of the spine. It also has a longer blade than the other two.

What do you all have?

[Mage7]

I have an extra hollow that is 5/8ths inch, and a Gold Dollar that seems to be a full hollow and seems close to a 7/8ths

What do you think about alum vs witch hazel Doc Dan?

I've been struggling to find a soap that I like and whipping up consistent lathers. I started out using Van Der Hagen's Shave Butter and really liked it, but wasn't getting a close shave and thought that's what it was. Been slowly trying lots of different soaps and realizing it was just my technique, and so recently I went back to a cream and tried that Cremo stuff and really like it a lot.

Soaps just seem too finicky. Too much water, not enough water, etc. Some of them would be so hard to work up a lather my forearm would cramp up. I think the best soap I used is tied between Stirling Soap Co. and Proraso's red. The worst by far was Mitchell's Wool Fat. Van Der Hagen's fragrance free wasn't bad, but you might as well just use a bar of glycerin soap--I don't mean that in a bad way, glycerin soaps work pretty well.

One thing I would suggest is not to hesitate asking the women in your life for some skincare tips; especially if you have sensitive skin or conditions like eczema. Us guys kind of get a bad education about this stuff. I was using these preshaves and aftershaves and couldn't manage to not get redness. Asked my sister for help and she gave me a real education on it. Apparently these products can be really drying and packed full of really harsh ingredients and allergens. I know they're advertised as being better than canned goo, but I definitely noticed an increase in redness and acne with the soaps I tried.

Now what I do, at the advice of my sister, is use a hydrating cleanser to wash before shaving, and a moisturizing cream after applying and rinsing alum. Then once or twice a week I use a cleanser with salicylic acid (BHA), followed by sunscreen instead of the moisturizer. She explained it to me in details I forgot... But basically the BHA stuff exfoliates and prevents redness and bacteria that can cause ingrown hairs and acne, and then the sunscreen has better restorative properties than the moisturizer alone so it helps your skin heal up from the exfoliation faster.

Since I started following her advice I have noticed a big difference. I'm also thinking about trying out a shaving cream she suggested called Vanicream, but it's pretty expensive stuff so I am gonna see how the Cremo goes for a while first, maybe switch back to the Van Der Hagen Shave Butter to see how it goes since my technique has improved too.

[Doc Dan]

I have an extra hollow that is 5/8ths inch, and a Gold Dollar that seems to be a full hollow and seems close to a 7/8ths

What do you think about alum vs witch hazel Doc Dan?

I've been struggling to find a soap that I like and whipping up consistent lathers. I started out using Van Der Hagen's Shave Butter and really liked it, but wasn't getting a close shave and thought that's what it was. Been slowly trying lots of different soaps and realizing it was just my technique, and so recently I went back to a cream and tried that Cremo stuff and really like it a lot.

Soaps just seem too finicky. Too much water, not enough water, etc. Some of them would be so hard to work up a lather my forearm would cramp up. I think the best soap I used is tied between Stirling Soap Co. and Proraso's red. The worst by far was Mitchell's Wool Fat. Van Der Hagen's fragrance free wasn't bad, but you might as well just use a bar of glycerin soap--I don't mean that in a bad way, glycerin soaps work pretty well.

One thing I would suggest is not to hesitate asking the women in your life for some skincare tips; especially if you have sensitive skin or conditions like eczema. Us guys kind of get a bad education about this stuff. I was using these preshaves and aftershaves and couldn't manage to not get redness. Asked my sister for help and she gave me a real education on it. Apparently these products can be really drying and packed full of really harsh ingredients and allergens. I know they're advertised as being better than canned goo, but I definitely noticed an increase in redness and acne with the soaps I tried.

Now what I do, at the advice of my sister, is use a hydrating cleanser to wash before shaving, and a moisturizing cream after applying and rinsing alum. Then once or twice a week I use a cleanser with salicylic acid (BHA), followed by sunscreen instead of the moisturizer. She explained it to me in details I forgot... But basically the BHA stuff exfoliates and prevents redness and bacteria that can cause ingrown hairs and acne, and then the sunscreen has better restorative properties than the moisturizer alone so it helps your skin heal up from the exfoliation faster.

Since I started following her advice I have noticed a big difference. I'm also thinking about trying out a shaving cream she suggested called Vanicream, but it's pretty expensive stuff so I am gonna see how the Cremo goes for a while first, maybe switch back to the Van Der Hagen Shave Butter to see how it goes since my technique has improved too.

Using hydrating cleanser is good advice. Get rid of any multi blade razors and use a safety razor with good blades. That will help your skin even more. Using a straight razor would also be an option. With these, you won't get shaving bumps or irritation. For a safety razor, I'd recommend Henson. For a straight razor, Ralf Aust, Colling, or Thiers Issard razors are all good.

As for a better inexpensive soap, try La Toja sensitive cream or the regular. I use the sensitive and it is easy, maybe the easiest, to get a good, slick lather. The salts from the springs really do my face good, too. You will probably like this cream better than those others, certainly better than Van Der Hagen. It is better than Cremo for me and many others. Good stuff. But, YMMV.

Mitchell's Wool Fat is my favorite shaving soap, but it takes longer to prepare. There is a bit more involved with it.

[jpm2]

I don't understand the problem people have with mitchell's.
It's so much better than proraso for me, there's no comparison, well worth the extra couple minutes it takes to whip it up.

[Mage7]

I don't understand the problem people have with mitchell's.
It's so much better than proraso for me, there's no comparison, well worth the extra couple minutes it takes to whip it up.

I could never get it to lather, and I tried just about every little tip and trick I was recommended. Tried using distilled water in case I had hard water, tried letting it "bloom" in some water while showering, tried using luke-warm water instead of hot water, etc. and so forth. Either I got a lather that was just too tacky and didn't have enough lubrication, or I got one that was too foamy and didn't have enough protection.

[Doc Dan]

A possibility is that you got a bad puck of soap. I've heard of this happening to some experienced MFW users. However, you have to squeeze out the water from your brush and load, load, and load some more. If it is too frothy then it might be too much water, but it is often too much whipping air into the foam. Stirring without whipping is the right way to go.

To get my MWF ready, the first time when it is new I put it in my container and cover it with water and put the lid on. Then, I let it sit overnight until it soaks up all of the water and swells to fill the container. After that I don't have to do anything but load like normal (unless I let the soap dry out). I put the lid back on when I am finished to keep it moist. You don't need a boar brush doing it my way and no, the lanolin won't leech out.

[Doc Dan]

Anyone get a new Straight Razor for Christmas?

[Doc Dan]

My Christmas Day shave.