Kroil for knife preserving

[Maremmen Jager]

Hi guys,
I see available here in Italy the Kroil, here it is quite uncommon to find.
The standard product is the WD-40.
I would like to buy to try it as knife preserver against rust and for long term storage.
What do you think about?

[VashHash]

Kroil is usually used for breaking loose rusty bolts and nuts. I'm sure it would be better than nothing but it's not really made for preservation. Also I like the smell.

[JRinFL]

I would gets some as it has numerous uses, but I agree with VashHash, it is not good at preservation.

Beeswax melted with mineral oil is a low cost method of preserving metal.

[Hopsbreath]

I keep Ballistol on hand for gun cleaning and started to use it on my knives too. It’s mineral oil based and works well.

[steelcity16]

Kroil is usually used for breaking loose rusty bolts and nuts. I'm sure it would be better than nothing but it's not really made for preservation. Also I like the smell.

Yep, it's my go to for working on cars! And it does smell great! Lol. Never thought to use it on knives though. Maybe I'll try it on some of the old traditional folders I pick up at estate sales that are rusted to crap.

[Naperville]

I do not know the names of the people conducting corrosion tests on YouTube, but they do an excellent job. Most of the oils are a total failure IF the item is to be wet or in salt water.

Simple paste wax or Renaissance Wax is used by almost all medieval armorers and weapons collectors. Anything that lasts for hundreds of years is getting coated with wax in most museums.

[w3tnz]

Simple paste wax or Renaissance Wax is used by almost all medieval armorers and weapons collectors. Anything that lasts for hundreds of years is getting coated with wax in most museums.

I second the recommendation of ren wax, it’s really good stuff. I’d be careful with oils for long term preservation, some can leave stains.

[Naperville]

Simple paste wax or Renaissance Wax is used by almost all medieval armorers and weapons collectors. Anything that lasts for hundreds of years is getting coated with wax in most museums.

I second the recommendation of ren wax, it’s really good stuff. I’d be careful with oils for long term preservation, some can leave stains.

[+1]

And not only that but for long term storage oil all over everything would be a mess. Wax, not so much and it works.

[Maremmen Jager]

Thank you for replies!
I will try the Renaissance Wax for long term storage, which is the best way to apply it?
Can I use it after field use (blood and rain)? Or is there something better?

[Naperville]

Thank you for replies!
I will try the Renaissance Wax for long term storage, which is the best way to apply it?
Can I use it after field use (blood and rain)? Or is there something better?

I think the can has instructions on it, but I would apply the wax with a soft towel.

If these are not collectables, never to be used, but being used for hunting, I'd use a food grade oil on them. That way they are safe for cutting meat in the field or at home, and you would not have digestive issues. Wipe them off after use, wash them in cool water and soap when you get them home, and reapply the food grade oils.

[Maremmen Jager]

Thank you for replies!
I will try the Renaissance Wax for long term storage, which is the best way to apply it?
Can I use it after field use (blood and rain)? Or is there something better?

I think the can has instructions on it, but I would apply the wax with a soft towel.

If these are not collectables, never to be used, but being used for hunting, I'd use a food grade oil on them. That way they are safe for cutting meat in the field or at home, and you would not have digestive issues. Wipe them off after use, wash them in cool water and soap when you get them home, and reapply the food grade oils.

Thank you, I will go to a combo like Renaissance Wax plus food grade oil.
Any feedback on Rocol spary oil?

[VashHash]

Thank you for replies!
I will try the Renaissance Wax for long term storage, which is the best way to apply it?
Can I use it after field use (blood and rain)? Or is there something better?

I think the can has instructions on it, but I would apply the wax with a soft towel.

If these are not collectables, never to be used, but being used for hunting, I'd use a food grade oil on them. That way they are safe for cutting meat in the field or at home, and you would not have digestive issues. Wipe them off after use, wash them in cool water and soap when you get them home, and reapply the food grade oils.

Thank you, I will go to a combo like Renaissance Wax plus food grade oil.
Any feedback on Rocol spary oil?

It looks like rocol makes a food safe oil so that should work. No actual experience with it.

[Naperville]

Thank you for replies!
I will try the Renaissance Wax for long term storage, which is the best way to apply it?
Can I use it after field use (blood and rain)? Or is there something better?

I think the can has instructions on it, but I would apply the wax with a soft towel.

If these are not collectables, never to be used, but being used for hunting, I'd use a food grade oil on them. That way they are safe for cutting meat in the field or at home, and you would not have digestive issues. Wipe them off after use, wash them in cool water and soap when you get them home, and reapply the food grade oils.

Thank you, I will go to a combo like Renaissance Wax plus food grade oil.
Any feedback on Rocol spary oil?

I have Frog and Renaissance and after seeing the tests done I settled on Ren Wax because I use my knives for self defense, not food prep. I have no info on any other oils or waxes, but all of the waxes should be OK as long as you are not involved in food prep.

[Woodpuppy]

For any long term storage you need to make sure the blade is truly clean and dry. Coating a blade with a preservative can seal in the corrosion-promoting elements and let them have their way with the steel.

[Gtscotty]

I think this is a pretty good comparison of the performance of some of the gun lube products out there that had crossover applicability to knives. Because it's gun focused, there are areas that won't be as applicable to knives (e.g. coefficient of static friction), but the corrosion tests seem pretty comprehensive.

https://dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

I usually use Hornady one shot or Eezox for steel that won't touch food, but something like frog lube might be better for a general purpose blade.