Sharpmaker handle S45/35VN?

[Pcexbird]

Not sure if the SM can handle S35&45VN without diamond rods...

I've gotten a lot of recommendations for the Edge Pro Apex in the past but am unclear if that system is more suited for someone looking to reprofile edges.

My goal in sharpness is maintaining/reaching what would be considered a "good" Spyderco factory edge and staying at factory sharpness or a bit further? Shaving sharp not mirror edges and the like.

Knife steels is S35VN and S45VN. Is this attainable with the SM plus my 3/1 micron strops?

[Wartstein]

Maintaining the factory edge of Spydies with S30V - ish steels is no problem with the regular sharpmaker (brown and white rods)

[metaphoricalsimile]

If you're *not* looking to reprofile, the 20 dps rod holder will do exactly what you want with the brown and white rods. However, once you get to the point where your "microbevel" is now just your "bevel" you might want to reprofile to 15 dps, and the brown rods will struggle with that. That should be a good long time however.

[James Y]

The Sharpmaker can easily handle S35VN and S45VN. They're a bit easier to ReSharper than S30V, and S30V is harder than 35 or 45, but isn't really difficult. In the past, I've even completely reprofiled the edge bevels on an S30V blade using only the SM's dark rods. Not that I would recommend that for a complete reprofile (I'm not); I'm just saying that I've done it before, so I know it can be done.

Jim

[Pcexbird]

Maintaining the factory edge of Spydies with S30V - ish steels is no problem with the regular sharpmaker (brown and white rods)

Would you recommend addition of the UF rods with it?

[Pcexbird]

If you're *not* looking to reprofile, the 20 dps rod holder will do exactly what you want with the brown and white rods. However, once you get to the point where your "microbevel" is now just your "bevel" you might want to reprofile to 15 dps, and the brown rods will struggle with that. That should be a good long time however.

Hmm would this be when I would need something like the DMT Diafold stones in addition? Or would you go straight to the DMT stuff and skip the SM altogether for this reason?

[metaphoricalsimile]

If you're *not* looking to reprofile, the 20 dps rod holder will do exactly what you want with the brown and white rods. However, once you get to the point where your "microbevel" is now just your "bevel" you might want to reprofile to 15 dps, and the brown rods will struggle with that. That should be a good long time however.

Hmm would this be when I would need something like the DMT Diafold stones in addition? Or would you go straight to the DMT stuff and skip the SM altogether for this reason?

IMO they're different tools for different jobs. The SM is great for quick touchups to keep a blade super sharp. I personally combine the Worksharp Precision Adjust with diamond stones for getting nerdy about having a very precise bevel angle, and then I use sharpmaker stones for touch-ups, and a strop for routine edge maintenance. It really depends on whether or not you want to take up sharpening as a hobby or if you just want a simple tool to keep a knife sharp for a long time.

[Makunochimaster]

Would you recommend addition of the UF rods with it?

yes, UF rods must have for splitting atoms into Higgs bisons (like as my tenacious-s35vn)
Fine rods may be somewhat (to an extent) coarse for laser style edge.

[Evil D]

Just depends on how much you need to repair edge damage. For routine sharpening the browns will be fine, I just wouldn't want to have to sharpen out any chips without diamond or CBN rods.

[Pcexbird]

If you're *not* looking to reprofile, the 20 dps rod holder will do exactly what you want with the brown and white rods. However, once you get to the point where your "microbevel" is now just your "bevel" you might want to reprofile to 15 dps, and the brown rods will struggle with that. That should be a good long time however.

Hmm would this be when I would need something like the DMT Diafold stones in addition? Or would you go straight to the DMT stuff and skip the SM altogether for this reason?

IMO they're different tools for different jobs. The SM is great for quick touchups to keep a blade super sharp. I personally combine the Worksharp Precision Adjust with Diamonds.....

Hmm now you have piqued my interest! I was looking at that Worksharp precision adjust and talking on other forums about it and people kept steering me to the Edge Pro Apex and the KME. That system looked to be pretty impressive to me and you are having good results with it? I'm am very much a nerd and very much wanting to do more than just maintain. I love to tinker but I'm wondering, what diamond stones do you use with that work sharp precision? Does it work well for knives like the Para 2 and Para 3? Also, why did you decide on that vs the other more expensive systems was it because of price or ease of use? How are your edges turning out with combining the use of the WSPA and the SM?

[TkoK83Spy]

Search the sharpening threads...many of these questions have been discussed many many many times already, even pretty recently.

[Hardbawl]

Pcexbird: you will soon find there are guys on the forum that consider “sharpening” an art. There are others who consider sharpening a chore. Most of us are somewhere in the middle. All are here to have a good time. Unless you are a sharpening artist, the SharpMaker will do the job. Like me, you may decide to add the diamond and ultra fine stones to your kit. I am not real good at sharpening so the SharpMaker really works for me. I’ve been told that I don’t really “sharpen” a knife, I just “touch it up”. Works for me. The SharpMaker sets up in a minute, so I don’t wait for them to get dull. I keep them sharp in just minutes. My current cary knife is a Chief in S90V. The SharpMaker keeps it exceeding sharp. Good luck.

[Pcexbird]

Pcexbird: you will soon find there are guys on the forum that consider “sharpening” an art. There are others who consider sharpening a chore. Most of us are somewhere in the middle. All are here to have a good time. Unless you are a sharpening artist, the SharpMaker will do the job. Like me, you may decide to add the diamond and ultra fine stones to your kit. I am not real good at sharpening so the SharpMaker really works for me. I’ve been told that I don’t really “sharpen” a knife, I just “touch it up”. Works for me. The SharpMaker sets up in a minute, so I don’t wait for them to get dull. I keep them sharp in just minutes. My current cary knife is a Chief in S90V. The SharpMaker keeps it exceeding sharp. Good luck.

I actually am starting to realize how seriously some folks take the skill. It's impressive, yet I guess there are masters in every art..like this guy named Knifenut on here (or BladeForums) I saw...phenomenal work.

But as for me I agree I need to start slow or I'll get overwhelmed and probably not do anything at all. So I get the Sharpmaker and a strop and call it a day for now. I am starting with brand new sharp knives so I guess I will join the club of "touching it up" but as long as it's sharp by my novice standards I'm happy :-)
P.S. Do you strop after the SM session?

If anyone has a link to a trusted video on how to use the Sharpmaker correctly (without dulling my tip) I'd appreciate it. There are so many conflicting sources. And if you wouldn't mind sharing your SM stone progression advice particularly for S45VN and S35VN it'd be appreciated.

Thanks a ton!

[Pcexbird]

Search the sharpening threads...many of these questions have been discussed many many many times already, even pretty recently.

Ok I'm looking through and bookmarking a bunch sorry for repetition.

[gspam1]

If anyone has a link to a trusted video on how to use the Sharpmaker correctly (without dulling my tip) I'd appreciate it. There are so many conflicting sources. And if you wouldn't mind sharing your SM stone progression advice particularly for S45VN and S35VN it'd be appreciated.

Thanks a ton!

The official Sharpmaker Videos are online on the Spydercoknives channel on YouTube. Along with dozens of other channels with tutorials.

[Wartstein]

Maintaining the factory edge of Spydies with S30V - ish steels is no problem with the regular sharpmaker (brown and white rods)

Would you recommend addition of the UF rods with it?

No, I personally would not.

I never missed even finer rods than the fine ones that come with the sharpmaker kit, often times I use only the browns and stop there.
Actually I pretty much became a "believer" in my basic version of Vivis very coarse edges (see this thread viewtopic.php?t=85096) - "basic" means, that I just use my CBN rods plus perhaps one or two light passes on both sides on the white stones.
If you get an additional rods of rods I personally would highly recommend that CBN (or diamond, never tried those myself though) over the UF rods.
Not only good for coarse edges of course, but also for reprofiling or thinning out when the blade gets thicker and thicker behind the edge.

But be aware: In the context of this forum both my skills and my needs / goals are not too high or specialized when it comes to sharpening. I am perfectly happy with an edge that shaves hair or cuts paper effortless.

Others will certainly recommend getting the UF rods, comes all down to personal preference.

[Wartstein]

----

.......

If anyone has a link to a trusted video on how to use the Sharpmaker correctly (without dulling my tip) I'd appreciate it. There are so many conflicting sources. And if you wouldn't mind sharing your SM stone progression advice particularly for S45VN and S35VN it'd be appreciated.

Thanks a ton!

As others have said: The sharpmaker comes with a perfect instructional dvd, can also be found on youtube, see here:

https://youtu.be/5LBDnJv5B58

This vid by forum member Lance ("Surfgringo") might help in addition:

https://youtu.be/DI8lTj-F8gA