Does anyone glue on bolt on scales - in particular the Halpern ones? I know this would make them more or less permanent, but it would keep moisture out.
Spyderco is out of Mule Boltaron sheaths. Do you know if these come back into stock regularly, or will it be a while? Does anyone else have those?
Thanks, all.
Two questions - Scales and glue, and Boltaron sheaths.
Re: Two questions - Scales and glue, and Boltaron sheaths.
I had the same question in one of the topics. I am thinking of using clear silicone once I get the scales from Spyderco. When I removed the current printed scales to test fit my scale design, I saw rust spots on the z-wear. Hoping the silicone will block moisture and it will be easy to remove if needed.
Re: Two questions - Scales and glue, and Boltaron sheaths.
Just avoid the stuff that uses acetic acid to cure. I would feel more comfortable using a gasket maker designed for automotive applications.Ilocano73 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 22, 2022 6:27 pmI had the same question in one of the topics. I am thinking of using clear silicone once I get the scales from Spyderco. When I removed the current printed scales to test fit my scale design, I saw rust spots on the z-wear. Hoping the silicone will block moisture and it will be easy to remove if needed.
Last edited by bgcameron on Wed Feb 23, 2022 12:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Two questions - Scales and glue, and Boltaron sheaths.
Why not just run of the mill silicone from the plumbing section?
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Re: Two questions - Scales and glue, and Boltaron sheaths.
Does it really "use acetic acid to cure"? I thought it released acetic acid as part of whatever reaction goes on in the curing process. Probably this distinction is irrelevant if the concern is just the presence of acetic acid as far as what damage it might do to the blade.bgcameron wrote: ↑Tue Feb 22, 2022 9:36 pmJust avoid the stuff that uses acetic acid to cure. I would feel more comfortable using a gasket maker designed for automotive applications.Ilocano73 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 22, 2022 6:27 pmI had the same question in one of the topics. I am thinking of using clear silicone once I get the scales from Spyderco. When I removed the current printed scales to test fit my scale design, I saw rust spots on the z-wear. Hoping the silicone will block moisture and it will be easy to remove if needed.
Or just use epoxy if you are going to go so far as to glue the scales on. Probably you are thinking that RTV (aka silicone) will be "easy" to remove should you want to do so, but I am not so sure. I remember reading (probably on this forum) some time ago that removing epoxied scales is a matter of a few sharp blows. Of course you sacrifice the scales.
My vote (and I am wrong about half the time) is that if you go to gluing scales, consider it permanent and use epoxy.
Re: Two questions - Scales and glue, and Boltaron sheaths.
Hi Jhe,
We're working on sheaths all of the time. Sometimes it's just hard to keep up.
sal
We're working on sheaths all of the time. Sometimes it's just hard to keep up.
sal
Re: Two questions - Scales and glue, and Boltaron sheaths.
Thanks, all.
Still interested in any comments on glue/silicone, etc.
Still interested in any comments on glue/silicone, etc.
Re: Two questions - Scales and glue, and Boltaron sheaths.
Yes that's what I meant. I would be concerned about it causing corrosion. A neutral cure silicone like a gasket maker would not cause the steel to rust.Tucson Tom wrote: ↑Wed Feb 23, 2022 3:36 pm
Does it really "use acetic acid to cure"? I thought it released acetic acid as part of whatever reaction goes on in the curing process. Probably this distinction is irrelevant if the concern is just the presence of acetic acid as far as what damage it might do to the blade.