So I have two questions:
Can those Shock oils offer same protection as MicroLubrol 200 Fluid Pure Silicone Oil?
And... Is there some reasons why mineral oil won't protect maxamet as good as silicone one? I think Spyderco suggesting Silicone for the reason.
Sorry so much ignorance in one post!
Recent favourites: Massad Ayoob CPM CRU-WEAR PE & SE, Yojimbo 2, Lil' Temperance 3 K390. Looking to add: Spyderco C131CFP Terzuola Slipit.
Bought this Breakthrough Battle Born lubricant for my pistols, because of the metal needle applicator I started using it on a few of my knife pivots, it’s my number 1 knife lubricant now, great stuff!
Bought this Breakthrough Battle Born lubricant for my pistols, because of the metal needle applicator I started using it on a few of my knife pivots, it’s my number 1 knife lubricant now, great stuff!
Mineral oil will work well enough. If you don't need a food safe oil, it opens up many more options. If you aren't working in wet, corrosive, or humid environments regularly, Maxamet shouldn't be too bad with a little regular care.
To protect the pivot you do want an oil that is thin enough to flow into the pivot so that you don't have to take the knife apart to apply it. That's my advice, anywah.
Because desolate places allow us to breathe. And most people don't even know they're out of breath.
Bought this Breakthrough Battle Born lubricant for my pistols, because of the metal needle applicator I started using it on a few of my knife pivots, it’s my number 1 knife lubricant now, great stuff!
I was too quick to reply - found it here and also some oil from them! However I have quite a few pivot oils… Do you use it for blade protection as well?
Recent favourites: Massad Ayoob CPM CRU-WEAR PE & SE, Yojimbo 2, Lil' Temperance 3 K390. Looking to add: Spyderco C131CFP Terzuola Slipit.
I think they advice silicone oil because silicone oil is thinner then most mineral oil. The thinner the layer the less dust it attracts. But you need to check if the silicone oil is foodsafe if you use your knife to cut food ( mine very rarely). But i believe using plain mineral oil will not damage your maxamet blade at all. All mineral or Silicone oil does is put a thin layer of oil on top of the blade to shield it from the oxygen so it can't form oxides with the steel.
Mineral oil will work well enough. If you don't need a food safe oil, it opens up many more options. If you aren't working in wet, corrosive, or humid environments regularly, Maxamet shouldn't be too bad with a little regular care.
To protect the pivot you do want an oil that is thin enough to flow into the pivot so that you don't have to take the knife apart to apply it. That's my advice, anywah.
Thanks! Last summer was humid and I got some rust spots on carbon blades and on new unused Chaparral just from sitting In the drawer in its package for a week. Now I’m careful and use Camellia oil for carbon and Ballistol for everything else.
I thought silicone oil suggested buy Spyderco (and not mineral oil or something else) has something to do with Maxamet specifics.
Recent favourites: Massad Ayoob CPM CRU-WEAR PE & SE, Yojimbo 2, Lil' Temperance 3 K390. Looking to add: Spyderco C131CFP Terzuola Slipit.
I think they advice silicone oil because silicone oil is thinner then most mineral oil. The thinner the layer the less dust it attracts. But you need to check if the silicone oil is foodsafe if you use your knife to cut food ( mine very rarely). But i believe using plain mineral oil will not damage your maxamet blade at all. All mineral or Silicone oil does is put a thin layer of oil on top of the blade to shield it from the oxygen so it can't form oxides with the steel.
Thank you! Makes sense. Do you prefer Renaissance wax over the Oil for the blade? From my understanding wax attract even less dust than any oil, which make a lot of sense for the pocket knife.
Recent favourites: Massad Ayoob CPM CRU-WEAR PE & SE, Yojimbo 2, Lil' Temperance 3 K390. Looking to add: Spyderco C131CFP Terzuola Slipit.
I bought a little box of Froglube CLP paste just for that reason and it sealed my tool steel knives very well.
Not the best if you want patina though. Maxamet may have darkened the tiniest bit during the last 7 months. And again I'm not really sure it has.
I reapply it every months if the knife gets used a lot (and the Para3 Maxamet does)
Mineral oil preserves it from rust very well too.
In the collection : Lots of different steels, in lots of different (and same) Spydercos.
Robin. Finally made an IG : ramo_knives MNOSD member 004* aka Mr. N5s
You can find lots of informal tests of oil protectants on the internet.
Depending on your knife use and your climate you may need a little protection or a lot of protection. In the little protection category almost anything can work. In the lot of protection category it takes specialized products.
I have several uncoated blades in M4 steel and occasionally I'll see a spot of what looks like rust. I'm in a relatively dry climate, I don't sweat a lot, and I don't work in wet environments, but I don't regularly put stuff on my blade either. When I noticed what looked like rust I cleaned my blades and put on the silicon protectant that a big knife retailer sells. It didn't seem to work very well so I then used Ren Wax. It didn't work very well either so I did my own little test of all of the oils that I have in the garage. Birchwood Casey Sheath worked the best so that's what I've been using.
If a person doesn't need much protection they can go with whatever oil they have available. Back when I was a full time mechanic I noticed that my little set of feeler gauges would rust so I oiled them with car motor oil. Later I noticed more rust so I basically soaked the gauges in oil. That didn't stop the rust so I'm not a fan of common oils if you really want protection.
A person has to do some research to see what products are available to them and try one. I think regular application is as important as what you use, but use what works for you.
I bought a little box of Froglube CLP paste just for that reason and it sealed my tool steel knives very well.
Not the best if you want patina though. Maxamet may have darkened the tiniest bit during the last 7 months. And again I'm not really sure it has.
I reapply it every months if the knife gets used a lot (and the Para3 Maxamet does)
Mineral oil preserves it from rust very well too.
Thank you! This Frog Lube is the one which you need to apply to pre-heated surface? I like the idea that it is natural andfood safe. But saw the reports that over time it becomes "sticky"... Did you notice similar behavior? But I guess if you reapply every month, there is not enough time to become sticky.
Recent favourites: Massad Ayoob CPM CRU-WEAR PE & SE, Yojimbo 2, Lil' Temperance 3 K390. Looking to add: Spyderco C131CFP Terzuola Slipit.
You can find lots of informal tests of oil protectants on the internet...
I saw them. Partially the reason why I started this thread. The mineral Oil and Ren Wax performed surprisingly poorly. As well as my favourite Ballistol..
The stuff which stood the test the best is mostly chemical, toxic and not ideal for the pocket knife in my opinion.
Silicon oil was not tested there. But was officially suggested by Spyderco for Maxamet. So (as per my initial post), I'm trying to find something similar in my location. Thank you for your expertise and suggestion!
If any oil work more-less the same, good to know!
Recent favourites: Massad Ayoob CPM CRU-WEAR PE & SE, Yojimbo 2, Lil' Temperance 3 K390. Looking to add: Spyderco C131CFP Terzuola Slipit.
I bought a little box of Froglube CLP paste just for that reason and it sealed my tool steel knives very well.
Not the best if you want patina though. Maxamet may have darkened the tiniest bit during the last 7 months. And again I'm not really sure it has.
I reapply it every months if the knife gets used a lot (and the Para3 Maxamet does)
Mineral oil preserves it from rust very well too.
Thank you! This Frog Lube is the one which you need to apply to pre-heated surface? I like the idea that it is natural andfood safe. But saw the reports that over time it becomes "sticky"... Did you notice similar behavior? But I guess if you reapply every month, there is not enough time to become sticky.
Left it two months on the Para 3 Maxamet without any issue. I only used it in dry condition then though. They say to apply on a pre heated surface but honestly it can penetrate the steel with friction of a brush for a few minutes just as well ^^
In the collection : Lots of different steels, in lots of different (and same) Spydercos.
Robin. Finally made an IG : ramo_knives MNOSD member 004* aka Mr. N5s
I use Victorinox Multitool Oil. Its cheap, easily available, and its food grade. Can't ask for more. Zero issues with rust ever since I started using it.
There's nsf silicone lubes out there. How "durable" does one need the lube to be? Just reapply as needed.
Thanks!
emanuel wrote:
I use Victorinox Multitool Oil. Its cheap, easily available, and its food grade. Can't ask for more. Zero issues with rust ever since I started using it.
This one is widely available where I am. Will be ordering one to try. Still can't figure out if it is silicone or mineral oil actually. Thanks
Recent favourites: Massad Ayoob CPM CRU-WEAR PE & SE, Yojimbo 2, Lil' Temperance 3 K390. Looking to add: Spyderco C131CFP Terzuola Slipit.
Just my opinion, but I never found silicone to be a good lubricant or a good protectant. It is also to be avoided if you do woodwork because it contaminates the wood surface and makes staining difficult to impossible.
"...it costs nothing to be polite." - Winston Churchill
“Maybe the cheese in the mousetrap is an artificially created cheaper price?” -Sal
