M4 Native Chief - Impressions, reviews, etc.

[vivi]

I was short cash and did not even try to get the M4 Native Chief. In another month or two I might try to get one. Hopefully I can find one that is unused.

If you can't find one when you look let me know, I may be able to help you out.

[Naperville]

I was short cash and did not even try to get the M4 Native Chief. In another month or two I might try to get one. Hopefully I can find one that is unused.

If you can't find one when you look let me know, I may be able to help you out.

Will do! It will be another 2 months probably.

[vivi]

Anyone else using theirs?

Between S30V, Rex45, M4 DLC and M4, this one has the best fit and finish, opening smoothness and out of box sharpness. The one in the photo is probably the best Spyderxo I've owned to date in terms of fit and finish / QC. Everything is perfect.

If you haven't tried sanding the corners of the handle on a Chief, you've got to. Makes a huge difference on this knife. Melts in my hand now.

The bare M4 is quickly forming a patina. Currently has more spotting than my DLC M4 Manix XL Iintentionally exposed to corrorive fluids over and over.

While DLC doesn't make M4 100% impervious to corrosion, I think showing less corrosion after 400 days in my collection than bare M4 does after 4 days of casual use speaks volumes about the influence it does have.

[VooDooChild]

I carried mine last night. I just didnt have anything to cut.

[Capt'n Boatsalot]

If you haven't tried sanding the corners of the handle on a Chief, you've got to. Makes a huge difference on this knife. Melts in my hand now.

Hey vivi,
Could you post some close up pics of the corner sanding? I'm curious how close you got to the screws. This is definitely something I've considered, but have never tried it. Thanks!

[vivi]

[Bemo]

That's really nice.

[Zive]

Vivi, what grit did you use to chamfer the edges? I haven’t noticed the edges creating a hotspot on any of my three models but wouldn’t mind rounding them a little to see how I like it.

[vivi]

Vivi, what grit did you use to chamfer the edges? I haven’t noticed the edges creating a hotspot on any of my three models but wouldn’t mind rounding them a little to see how I like it.

300 grit.

try it to your most used one. i can't go back to the stock chief now. that satin m4 i sanded it down some, put it together, then decided it was still too blocky compared to the dlc. it makes a big difference with this model.

[Zive]

Thank you, Sir. That would be the DLC M4 in my case.

I used to think that squared off corners were more stable (less prone to rotation) in-hand but more recent experience with contoured models like the Shaman have made me question if that’s the case.

Looking forward to trying this out.

[Capt'n Boatsalot]

Thanks vivi, appreciate the up close photos

[Spyderwebs]

I'm 4 years late to the party but recently scored a good deal on a DLC version NIB.

Out of the box the action and release were both so-so, but after a thousand flicks and some oil it's very smooth.

I love the linerless Jade appearance. I was contemplating a Jade/DLC PM2 but the liners showing through take away a little of the magic on the Jade imo. The light passing through the handle does give it a little 'ghost' feel to it, and makes it easy to see in the dark vs flat opaque G10

I like the NC a lot, but it also taught me 2 things -
The Spyder hole is better when fully exposed like on a PM2/3 or Delica/Endura/Ayoob. Partially hidden spyder holes noticeably reduce the ease of opening, particularly on back locks with strong close bias.

Second, the NC lock bar has to be nearly flush with the scale before the lock disengages at all. Other lock backs disengage without being flush, making them significantly easier to unlock. I'd prefer sooner disengagement similar to a Delica or Ayoob as it makes the blade much easier to close and doesn't create a hot spot on my thumb. The NC really requires you to mash the lock bar down hard. Not a fan of the disengagement overall, but not a huge deal.

Also imiss the Boyle dent. All lock backs should have this IMO. It cups the contour of my thumb and makes repeated disengagement much more comfortable .

This is my first M4 blade and I see why it gets love. Hair popping sharp out of the box, a low factory edge angle, and sharpens easily.

I almost got a CruCarta NC or NC Salt, but the Jade DLC popped up for the same price and I couldn't resist.

Fun to score an oldie!

[vivi]

I'm 4 years late to the party but recently scored a good deal on a DLC version NIB.

Out of the box the action and release were both so-so, but after a thousand flicks and some oil it's very smooth.

I love the linerless Jade appearance. I was contemplating a Jade/DLC PM2 but the liners showing through take away a little of the magic on the Jade imo. The light passing through the handle does give it a little 'ghost' feel to it, and makes it easy to see in the dark vs flat opaque G10

I like the NC a lot, but it also taught me 2 things -
The Spyder hole is better when fully exposed like on a PM2/3 or Delica/Endura/Ayoob. Partially hidden spyder holes noticeably reduce the ease of opening, particularly on back locks with strong close bias.

Second, the NC lock bar has to be nearly flush with the scale before the lock disengages at all. Other lock backs disengage without being flush, making them significantly easier to unlock. I'd prefer sooner disengagement similar to a Delica or Ayoob as it makes the blade much easier to close and doesn't create a hot spot on my thumb. The NC really requires you to mash the lock bar down hard. Not a fan of the disengagement overall, but not a huge deal.

Also imiss the Boyle dent. All lock backs should have this IMO. It cups the contour of my thumb and makes repeated disengagement much more comfortable .

This is my first M4 blade and I see why it gets love. Hair popping sharp out of the box, a low factory edge angle, and sharpens easily.

I almost got a CruCarta NC or NC Salt, but the Jade DLC popped up for the same price and I couldn't resist.

Fun to score an oldie!

Funny that's a con to you.

I've been carrying a cold steel recon 1 the past couple of days, and one reason I like it is how deep the lock bar engages the blade. The lockback raises up a good 6-7mm right before the folder is fully opened.

My Lightweight Police I just picked up on the other hand, it has about 1.75mm - 2mm of lock engagement.

Taking them apart and looking at how much metal on metal contact there is with the lock surfaces, the recon fills me with a lot more confidence for heavy stabbing etc.



I'd personally like deeper lockback engagement. It bothers me when I get a Spyderco lockback and there's less than 2mm of steel on steel contact with the lock. I had a Pacific Salt 2 I waved that was closer to 1mm than 2....which is why I sold it.

Back to the Chief. I was really into the model around 2020-2021 but have nearly moved on from it. Sold off just about my entire collection. Which one did I keep? M4 DLC.

[Spyderwebs]

Funny that's a con to you.

I think you misunderstand my statement -

As you say, I also like a good Tang engagement in the blade. I agree that leads to a secure feeling lockup that is not prone to unintended unlocking. Your Recon1 pic shows the lock bar release is still 1-2mm above the scallop bottom, which is what I'm advocating for.

My beef with the NC is the release relief size:release point ratio. The Delica, Endura, Ayoob, Centofante 3 and Centofante 4 all have 1-2mm of lock bar sticking above the lock-relief scallop in the scale when the blade disengages.

My Native Chief Jade/DLC requires the lock bar to be pressed nearly flush with the bottom of the lockbar release scale-scallop before the blade swings free. As is, you have to hammer the NC release much deeper than other lock bars relative to the depth of the scale relief, which means a more forceful pinch is required. Other models could easily disengage differently I assume, based on small manufacturing tolerances.

Paired with a rather stiff spring, the lock bar release is noticeably harder on the NC than several other back locks, and I prefer more buffer between the scallop-bottom and blade-unlock for an easier release. That's my only point and your recon looks perfect.

That said, I love the knife. Its among the most slicey and pokey spydercos

[vivi]

I know what you mean, and I would like more Spydercos to be like the Chief in this respect.

[RazorSharp86]

Funny that's a con to you.

I think you misunderstand my statement -

As you say, I also like a good Tang engagement in the blade. I agree that leads to a secure feeling lockup that is not prone to unintended unlocking. Your Recon1 pic shows the lock bar release is still 1-2mm above the scallop bottom, which is what I'm advocating for.

My beef with the NC is the release relief size:release point ratio. The Delica, Endura, Ayoob, Centofante 3 and Centofante 4 all have 1-2mm of lock bar sticking above the lock-relief scallop in the scale when the blade disengages.

My Native Chief Jade/DLC requires the lock bar to be pressed nearly flush with the bottom of the lockbar release scale-scallop before the blade swings free. As is, you have to hammer the NC release much deeper than other lock bars relative to the depth of the scale relief, which means a more forceful pinch is required. Other models could easily disengage differently I assume, based on small manufacturing tolerances.

Paired with a rather stiff spring, the lock bar release is noticeably harder on the NC than several other back locks, and I prefer more buffer between the scallop-bottom and blade-unlock for an easier release. That's my only point and your recon looks perfect.

That said, I love the knife. Its among the most slicey and pokey spydercos

Yup. I hate how deep the bar needs to be depressed into that handle in order to be have the lock disengaged.
It’s especially annoying if you use gloves.

My biggest complaint.

The Recon pictured above by Vivi is great. Lots of bar left for your finger to depress past the disengagement point.

It is my hated trait of the NC.