Best edge bevel for sharpening

[AllenETreat]

Time for an "info thread"...


Which edge bevel do you use when sharpening your :spyder: ?

I use about a 40 degree ange on my Cricket ( seems to work ) and
a Gatco Tri Seps diamond hone ( one of these days I gotta get a
204 sharpener! )

What say the augurers?

AET :D

[CKE]

Hey Allen...hope you are well :)

Usually I use a 30 degree bevel. If I have to reprofile I for sure go 30 then if I need more I will touch up on the 40 degree 204.

Get the 204 you won't be sorry :)

[Senate]

the 40 of the sharpmaker is working great for me...

[ghostrider]

I usually use 30 for my :spyder: 's. Other knives don't really need it since I started carryng :spyder: .

[i.v]

i use the 30 for my PE delica, 40 for everything else.

[Piet.S]

Same as I.V

[Gerard Breuker]

30 for most Spyders and 40 for most other knives. I do like sharpening knives of lesser quality once in a while just for practice and fun.

[Michael Cook]

:spyder: softer kitchen type or older era stainless steel is a bit too soft to hold a 30 degree bevel but the vg-10 and cpms30v sure can! snicker-snack! :spyder:

[DAYWALKER]

the 40 of the sharpmaker is working great for me...

Aloha Allen!

Same as Senate...but like I have mentioned, I usually been freehanding so i don't really know! :p :o

God bless you buddy! :cool:

[Mariner]

30 degress for all :spyder: s (VG10 and S30V) and BMs. 30 degrees takes more effort with BMs since they have to be reprofiled.

[Chris_H]

Yeah -- what Gerard, Michael & Mariner said.

[fret]

I freehand sharpen my Cricket and Delica. Both have different degrees. I haven't measured them but they cut like razor blades and hold their edge well. I use a crock stick mostly followed with a leather strop with jeweler's rouge on it sometimes. I do the sharpening mostly by "feel" as the eyesight isn't what it used to be. I haven't needed any agressive stones even tho I have them. I just take my time and use patience. It's worth the minimal effort to have them sharp. :)

[Joe Talmadge]

If I'm using a Sharpmaker, I almost always do the initial sharpening at 30 degrees. On some fixed blade knives that will be used hard hard, I take the 30 degrees to the edge but don't raise a burr, but switch to 40 degrees to do that ... in other words, 30 degrees w/ a 40-degree edge is the most obtuse I'll go, only for fixed blades.

My feeling has always been: if my folder can't handle 30 degrees, I'd rather get a better knife, than go to 40 degrees. I'm exaggerating a little bit, because I often take a few swipes at 40 degrees to remove the burr, or even more swipes on knives I know will be used hard. But there's almost never a reason to go to a straight 40 degrees on a quality folder with good quality steel and heat treat -- you're giving up a ton of performance for nothing, you may as well have gotten a knife with junk steel if you're going to put an obtuse edge on. The whole reason to buy a premium steel knife is for premium performance, not to get obtuse-edge performance at three times the cost.

The exception, of course, is if you know that you're using your knife hard enough that it will chip out or indent badly otherwise. Michael brought up soft steel kitchen knives, which are an example of lower-quality steel that won't always hold up to 30 degrees without indenting and turning badly.

Joe

[LONE WOLF]

Spydercos, SAKs, and Bucks get a 15/15 edge. the rest get a 20/20 or freehand at around 22/22-25/25

[dialex]

Hi Allen, I hope everything goes fine with you. I sharpen the VG-10, 440V and S30V blades at 30°. Others go with 40° as the steel doesn't seem to hold well a steeper angle.