Can I sharpen steel x with a Sharpmaker? The answer is yes!

[Catamount123]

This question comes up regularly here. When someone asks it they usually mean “Can I restore a :spyder: with a (fill in the blank) blade and factory bevels, to a factory edge, using a Sharpmaker with the included ceramic rods, in a reasonable amount of time?” Very often, someone with advanced sharpening skills will respond with something like “You really need diamond/CBN rods for this steel.” There may be truth to this if you are looking to reprofile, or get well beyond factory sharpness. Unfortunately, this can discourage some from trying a steel, thinking they will have to invest the money/time to get diamond/CBN rods and learn how to use them.

I have not tried to sharpen every steel Spyderco uses with a Sharpmaker and ceramic rods, but I have tried enough of them that supposedly “require” diamond/CBN. If you are looking to restore the factory edge on a :spyder: with factory bevels, I believe the standard Sharpmaker will work with any steel Spyderco uses. You will likely be pleasantly surprised that it didn’t require as much time/effort as you thought.

[tomhosangoutdoors]

Can you? Absolutely! Will you be missing some of the performance though vs if you went with a full diamond/CBN progression? Yes. Most won't be able to tell a difference though. But if you're a performance aficionado, that's something to keep in mind.

[TkoK83Spy]

Sharpening and touching up are one thing, reprofiling is a whole different animal. I couldn't imagine trying to take even something like 8cr from 20dps down to 15dps using only the ceramic rods. That would take a VERY LONG time to accomplish and would likely need an arm transplant before you're done with the job.

You can easily touch up after use on some of these super steels and not have to worry about reprofiling or thinning out the edge for quite some time...but when it comes time, I know I personally would never in my wildest dreams imagine doing so with such a high grit as the brown or fine rods that come standard with the Sharpmaker.

[James Y]

Back in 2002, I had to completely reprofile my first CRK, a large regular Sebenza (which at the time was S30V), which came so dull NIB that I could press my finger down onto the edge and run it along the edge length without cutting myself, or even any discomfort.

I used the SM dark rods, first set at 20 DPS, then later at 15 DPS. Admittedly, it took me a long time, off and on; I didn’t accomplish it in one or two sittings. More like 20 minutes here and there, when the mood struck me. There was so much ‘shoulders’ that needed to be removed. I was ok with that, because at the time it was my most expensive knife, and I was afraid of accidentally messing it up by removing too much metal at once. I could always remove more, but couldn’t put any back on if I screwed something up. I eventually achieved 15 DPS, with the very edge finished at 20 DPS. I also reprofiled a completely dull, NIB Benchmade Stryker in ATS-34, which went much faster than the CRK.

So can it be done? Of course, because I did it. But you would need a lot of patience. I was ok with it, but not everybody would be, so I wouldn’t recommend it as the best option for reprofiling. As far as simply touching an edge up, it’s easy-peasey.

Jim

*Edited for spelling errors (darned autocorrect).

[Evil D]

The question never was "can you sharpen X steel"

It was "do you have the patience to sharpen X steel"


Spyderco doesn't use a steel that's harder than ceramic so technically yes any steel can be sharpened but when most people say no I think it's more of a willingness problem than an ability problem.

[Catamount123]

The point I'm trying to make is that I think a disservice is being done to some with lesser sharpening skills. They are scared away from some very nice steels because they think they need to invest money and time in more sharpening gear to get any benefit from them. This is where I was with K390. Then I started a thread, and got some good responses from people who successfully sharpen it with the ceramic rods. Now it is one of my favorite steels.

[Steeltoez83]

I have only tested k390 on my pm2 with ceramic and diamond progressions and found a increase in edge retention in the ballpark of 15-20% with diamond Stones. I haven't had much time with the seki k390 which was tested 3 Rockwell points higher than my pm2. Just my personal observations with spyderco k390 Rockwell tested at 63.1 after 10 trials(5 each)

[Bwana1]

The point I'm trying to make is that I think a disservice is being done to some with lesser sharpening skills. They are scared away from some very nice steels because they think they need to invest money and time in more sharpening gear to get any benefit from them. This is where I was with K390. Then I started a thread, and got some good responses from people who successfully sharpen it with the ceramic rods. Now it is one of my favorite steels.

I really appreciate the informative thread, I've been on the fence about buying my first sharpener. The SM looks easy enough to master, but I was concerned about which system or rods to buy.

I have a large collection of knives, and must shamefully admit to not using them much because I don't own a sharpening set-up. I had an Edge Pro 4 with all the extras, and it was sensory overload for me to figure out the concept and assemble the Erector set with Chinese instructions...that I just sold it.

I also saw a gentleman made some adapters that attach to the SM, to float a couple extra bevel angles...but not sure if he's selling them to the public, that would also be something I'm interested in adding.

[Raylas]

The question never was "can you sharpen X steel"

It was "do you have the patience to sharpen X steel"


Spyderco doesn't use a steel that's harder than ceramic so technically yes any steel can be sharpened but when most people say no I think it's more of a willingness problem than an ability problem.

Is it even possible for a steel to be harder than the ceramic spyderco uses? As I understand it the stuff is synthetic sapphire of some stripe, and basically harder than anything short of tungsten carbide.

[Matt Deaner]

It is my understanding that the vanadium and niobium carbides that are within certain steels (k390, s30,90,110v,10v etc) are actually harder than the alumina based ceramic sharp maker rods. Not that the rods won't work for touch up. But once more than touch up is needed diamond or cbn is in order with these steels.

[Sharp Guy]

I quit trying to touch up my S110V knives with the Sharpmaker rods. They say it can be done but I certainly don't have the patients (or time) for it. I have other ways to touch it up but I've pretty much decided S110V isn't for me. I gave my S110V Manix 2 LW friend. Only S110V I have left is my UKPK. I've decided that ease of sharpening (touching up on the SM) is definitely something I require in a blade steel

[Wartstein]

I quit trying to touch up my S110V knives with the Sharpmaker rods.....

You're talking about the "basic" brown and white rods or also about diamond / CBN?

[Sharp Guy]

I quit trying to touch up my S110V knives with the Sharpmaker rods.....

You're talking about the "basic" brown and white rods or also about diamond / CBN?

Yes I was basically referring to the brown rods. I can get a decent edge on my S110V knives but they're not how I want them or how they are when the come off my Hapstone. The CBN rods don't really do what I want either. They seem too course to touch up a micro-bevel. Almost need to reprofile with them each time. Not for me thanks

I did make a base for my bonded diamond stones and another for the DMTs. I made these specifically for touching up S110V. I still can't seem to get my S110V knives as sticky sharp as I'd like. Again, they cut well but not as sharp feeling as my other knives. I don't have the time or desire to mess around with it. Not worth the effort for the return. I don't need (or want) crazy edge retention. Seems like you need to touch up S110V almost as often as other steels anyway. Time to move on





BTW, I just touched up my Paysan (S90V) on the Sharpmaker brown rods. No issue getting that back to sticky sharp

[Wartstein]

I quit trying to touch up my S110V knives with the Sharpmaker rods.....

You're talking about the "basic" brown and white rods or also about diamond / CBN?

Yes I was basically referring to the brown rods. I can get a decent edge on my S110V knives but they're not how I want them or how they are when the come off my Hapstone. The CBN rods don't really do what I want either. They seem too course to touch up a micro-bevel. Almost need to reprofile with them each time. Not for me thanks

I did make a base for my bonded diamond stones and another for the DMTs. I made these specifically for touching up S110V. I still can't seem to get my S110V knives as sticky sharp as I'd like. Again, they cut well but not as sharp feeling as my other knives. I don't have the time or desire to mess around with it. Not worth the effort for the return. I don't need (or want) crazy edge retention. Seems like you need to touch up S110V almost as often as other steels anyway. Time to move on...

BTW, I just touched up my Paysan (S90V) on the Sharpmaker brown rods. No issue getting that back to sticky sharp

Thanks, that is good information and interesting points!

As a matter of fact I certainly don´t know as much about sharpening as you do, and never had S110V ( but always tought it would be not for me from all I read. Like Maxamet would be not too).

I am perfectly happy with my white, brown and CBN rods (would not even really need the whites I guess), but I sharpen mainly VG10 and the like, or at max REX 45 and HAP 40 as my hardest steels, but not really hard too sharpen (just a bit more time consuming)

[Sharp Guy]

I quit trying to touch up my S110V knives with the Sharpmaker rods.....

You're talking about the "basic" brown and white rods or also about diamond / CBN?

Yes I was basically referring to the brown rods. I can get a decent edge on my S110V knives but they're not how I want them or how they are when the come off my Hapstone. The CBN rods don't really do what I want either. They seem too course to touch up a micro-bevel. Almost need to reprofile with them each time. Not for me thanks

I did make a base for my bonded diamond stones and another for the DMTs. I made these specifically for touching up S110V. I still can't seem to get my S110V knives as sticky sharp as I'd like. Again, they cut well but not as sharp feeling as my other knives. I don't have the time or desire to mess around with it. Not worth the effort for the return. I don't need (or want) crazy edge retention. Seems like you need to touch up S110V almost as often as other steels anyway. Time to move on...

BTW, I just touched up my Paysan (S90V) on the Sharpmaker brown rods. No issue getting that back to sticky sharp

Thanks, that is good information and interesting points!

As a matter of fact I certainly don´t know as much about sharpening as you do, and never had S110V ( but always tought it would be not for me from all I read. Like Maxamet would be not too).

I am perfectly happy with my white, brown and CBN rods (would not even really need the whites I guess), but I sharpen mainly VG10 and the like, or at max REX 45 and HAP 40 as my hardest steels, but not really hard too sharpen (just a bit more time consuming)

Maxamet's actually fairly easy for me to touch up on the Sharpmaker. Reprofiling on the Hapstone takes a little more effort though.

And just to be clear, I can sharpen S110V on my Hapstone V7 without issue. I just prefer the convenience of using the Sharpmaker for touch ups. I don't have time or the desire to get out my Hapstone every time I want to touch up a knife. Yes, I'm being lazy. That's my choice :)

[RustyIron]

I had an Edge Pro 4 with all the extras, and it was sensory overload for me to figure out the concept and assemble the Erector set with Chinese instructions

Ummm... are you sure about that? Something smells fishy. EdgePros are made in Hood River, Oregon. The manual is written in English, and English is the language spoken on the DVD that comes with all their sharpeners. If you call them for advice, you'll probably speak with Ben or Cody. Both have spoken English with me, but that's not to say that they haven't learned to speak Chinese.

[Bwana1]

I had an Edge Pro 4 with all the extras, and it was sensory overload for me to figure out the concept and assemble the Erector set with Chinese instructions

Ummm... are you sure about that? Something smells fishy. EdgePros are made in Hood River, Oregon. The manual is written in English, and English is the language spoken on the DVD that comes with all their sharpeners. If you call them for advice, you'll probably speak with Ben or Cody. Both have spoken English with me, but that's not to say that they haven't learned to speak Chinese.

Ummm...I think you missed the sarcastic metaphor :D

[Evil D]

Seems like you need to touch up S110V almost as often as other steels anyway. Time to move on

This is ultimately where I'm at as well. I'm not satisfied with a "working edge" so since I'm not willing to let my edge go long periods without a touch up, the edge retention isn't something I value past a certain point and there are steels with much more well rounded qualities that still hold an edge plenty long enough that literally take two minutes to bring back from dull. I still have an interest in trying out steels and if REX 121 comes around I'll try it out of curiosity, but it won't be something I pick for a real EDC role.

[Robert Ptacek]

I love the Sharpmaker but I wouldn't dream of reprofiling with it.I thin the edge out on a coarse benchstone until I burr it both sides and the transition to the Sharpmaker to microbevel.I know this might not satisfy those who don't want to freehand it but is my technique.

[atv223]

When it was time for me to reprofile my Manix 2 S110V I had already invested in a KME. It did a great job reprofiling it, but it's not something I want to set up every time I need a touch-up. I used my Sharpmake to put a micro-bevel on it. Working with a reprofiled edge and just putting a micro bevel, the SM made short work of the tune-up with standard stones.