manix 2 lw construction

[ladybug93]

will we ever see the manix 2 lw design revisited to include screws? it is by far my favorite spyderco, but i never want to buy it in tool steels or non-stainless. i’d love to try maxamet (i also happen to love stonewash finishes), for example, but i’m not going to buy a blade that will rust in a design i can’t properly maintain.

having disassembled a manix xl, i know it’s a real pain to do, but i would like the option. just a thought. i know it’s been mentioned before, but i figured i’d bring it up again. it’s the one and only thing i don’t like about the manix 2 lw.

[knivesandbooks]

I almost wonder if the pinned construction was do to the manix lw's low price point and spyderco's ban on disassembly at the time. I wonder if they pinned it becuase they expected non-knife people to be more likely to buy or be gifted the knife and didn't want them taking it apart and messing it up.

I'd prefer it with screws but it doesn't bother me.
All of my traditionals are 1095 and pinned and I've no rusty pivot/blade-around-the-pivot probs.

[DOUBLE D]

I agree with the OP. I love the model, but can't stand that I can't take it apart. I take apart my delicas and enduras regularly when they need cleaning or lubing.

Dave D

[curlyhairedboy]

I would definitely consider the LW manix more if it was screw construction.

[buccilli15]

Yup..totally on board with the OP. My love/hate relationship with the LW version stems from the pinned construction. Admittedly, I rarely, if ever, take my knives apart, but it's nice to have the option. Plus the pins look cheap. I don't have any problem increasing the MSRP whatsoever.

[zhyla]

I agree the pinned construction is odd especially for this lock type. I imagine getting the spring area full of mud would be a pain to deal with.

Not sure if there are drop in replacement fasteners that would replace the rivets if they could be drilled out.

I really dislike the LW handle. I’d like to see a next gen version that with softer corners and texturing. But I’m sure they’ll crank these out for a long time to recoup the investment in the molds.

[ladybug93]

I almost wonder if the pinned construction was do to the manix lw's low price point and spyderco's ban on disassembly at the time. I wonder if they pinned it becuase they expected non-knife people to be more likely to buy or be gifted the knife and didn't want them taking it apart and messing it up.

I'd prefer it with screws but it doesn't bother me.
All of my traditionals are 1095 and pinned and I've no rusty pivot/blade-around-the-pivot probs.

it would be easy to mess up the manix by taking it apart, so that makes sense to a degree, especially with spyderco’s old policy. now that they’ve loosened up a bit though, it would be nice for people to have the option. who wants to spend $180 on a knife to just drop some oil into the pivot from the top of the handle and hope for the best?

i live in hawaii and it’s quite salty here, even if you’re not at the beach. i’ve actually had a spot develop on my xhp manix that i could just barely take care of with a q-tip through the cbbl hole. that makes me wonder what’s going on in the parts of the blade i can’t see or access. i imagine my issues would be far worse if it wasn’t stainless.

I agree the pinned construction is odd especially for this lock type. I imagine getting the spring area full of mud would be a pain to deal with.

Not sure if there are drop in replacement fasteners that would replace the rivets if they could be drilled out.

I really dislike the LW handle. I’d like to see a next gen version that with softer corners and texturing. But I’m sure they’ll crank these out for a long time to recoup the investment in the molds.

i wasn’t a fan of the look of the handle until i got it in my hands. i know some thing it’s blocky, but i absolutely love the handle. it’s a very comfortable knife to me. in fact, i tried to convince myself to need another knife when i visited sfo last year and i couldn’t. nothing else was as good as the manix for me. the only thing i don’t like is these pins.



from what i’ve seen online, it may also be a possibility to retool the pivot instead of replacing the pins. if the pivot could be removed from one side, the blade could slide out easily for maintenance. that would be an acceptable compromise even though it would still leave metal in the knife that couldn’t be properly cared for. the blade is the main concern though.

anyway, it’s just a petition for a relatively small change and only because i absolutely love this knife. hopefully spyderco will consider it. and, if there was a chance at offering some sort of retrofit, i’d be all over it as well as more willing to try more steels in my favorite knife.

[ferider]

...if the pivot could be removed from one side, the blade could slide out easily for maintenance....

It can on the Maxamet Manix at least. Sliding the blade out is easy, putting everything together a little harder (align blade and washers).

Then again, it's easier than to clean a Chinook 1. :)

That being said, I was very excited to see that the Native Salt can be disassembled. One can hope that they change the Manix LW platform to have similar assembly in the future ....

[ladybug93]

i was under the impression that the blade rides on a pivot that is anchored i each of the scales. is that not the case?

[Tims]

I have hovered over ‘buy it now’ plenty of times for a LW Manix but can’t get past the pinned construction. Screws would get me there.

[ferider]

i was under the impression that the blade rides on a pivot that is anchored i each of the scales. is that not the case?

No, the Pivot has screws (with tiny washers) on both sides, LB. Inside, you have steel washers anchored in the Nylon (instead of liners), followed by phos./brass washers, followed by the blade.

Roland.

[carrot]

I really don't understand the burning desire to switch from pinned to screwed here. Pinned means no screws to fall out and/or lose in the field. A good rinsing and drying and relubing will take care of basically any issue that crops up and the LWT Manix is one of the most perfect "hassle free" knives there is. I would LOVE to see a pinned Salt Manix!

I once got my pinned Caly3 sandy and all it took was a good washing under the tap. Ditto for muddy, sandy knives I've owned and carried like the Military, Paramilitary, Dragonfly, Manbug, and Salt 1! Except for my Sebenza, which seems to need to be dismantled for proper maintenance, I haven't taken a knife apart in 10 years.

[Tims]

For a knife like the Manix with its CBBL, I would like screws to allow access to the lock mechanism.
I can grudgingly live with pinned construction on backlocks but thats about it.
I personally do not understand peoples fears of having screws fall out. In the ‘field’ or anywhere. I have never had the screws fall out of any knife, let alone one of Spyderco quality.
I don’t understand that point of view, I can respect and accept it though.

[ladybug93]

maybe carrot is referring to losing a screw while trying to maintain a knife in the field? otherwise, i don't understand that point at all. i've never been worried about losing a screw from a knife except while disassembling for maintenance. i'm far more worried about a steel that will develop rust under the handle where i have zero capability to access it for cleaning. i can deal with some patina/staining, but you have to be able to address it frequently so it doesn't start to cause damage.

a manix with a cbbl sounds like a terrible idea for a salt knife to me. as someone that frequently plays in the ocean with a pacific salt, i think the manix 2 would be a nightmare to clean out. for a backlock, you can just rinse it out. sand and other junk may interfere with the opening and closing action, but not with the lock itself. i just imagine sand and/or fish guts getting in the spring of the manix or stuck behind the compression lock and then stopping the knife from functioning properly. i've actually been curious to hear feedback about this for the caribbean models, but no one has answered that question for me.

anyway, i would definitely buy a manix 2 lw salt because the manix is my favorite knife, but i'm not sure how spyderco would manage to actually make it a salt model. i suppose it's possible since the tusk is a salt model and has a bbl.

[Tims]

maybe carrot is referring to losing a screw while trying to maintain a knife in the field? otherwise, i don't understand that point at all. i've never been worried about losing a screw from a knife except while disassembling for maintenance. i'm far more worried about a steel that will develop rust under the handle where i have zero capability to access it for cleaning. i can deal with some patina/staining, but you have to be able to address it frequently so it doesn't start to cause damage.

a manix with a cbbl sounds like a terrible idea for a salt knife to me. as someone that frequently plays in the ocean with a pacific salt, i think the manix 2 would be a nightmare to clean out. for a backlock, you can just rinse it out. sand and other junk may interfere with the opening and closing action, but not with the lock itself. i just imagine sand and/or fish guts getting in the spring of the manix or stuck behind the compression lock and then stopping the knife from functioning properly. i've actually been curious to hear feedback about this for the caribbean models, but no one has answered that question for me.

anyway, i would definitely buy a manix 2 lw salt because the manix is my favorite knife, but i'm not sure how spyderco would manage to actually make it a salt model. i suppose it's possible since the tusk is a salt model and has a bbl.

Personally it’s fixed blade or backlock only for hard, dirty use. For the reasons youve outlined Ladybug. I can see the CBBLs spring being a weak point in a salty environment too. Light corrosion isnt a huge deal on a backlock, liner/compression lock etc but on that thin spring it could potentially, in time, cause failure. On a pinned knife a spring failure = throw it in the bin.

[ladybug93]

i was under the impression that the blade rides on a pivot that is anchored i each of the scales. is that not the case?

No, the Pivot has screws (with tiny washers) on both sides, LB. Inside, you have steel washers anchored in the Nylon (instead of liners), followed by phos./brass washers, followed by the blade.

Roland.

this isn't what i've seen in pictures online. from what i've seen, there is a piece that runs through the blade that the screws attach to. that piece is proud of the blade on each side and is held in place by the "liners." from what i've seen, you have to pry the frcp handle scales to try and work the blade and that pivot piece out and i've seen at least one handle cracked from trying it.

i'd love to be wrong here, because it means i can take my xhp manix blade out and better maintain it.

i can't seem to find the pictures that i'm referring to right now, but i'll keep looking so i can link it here.

[ferider]

this isn't what i've seen in pictures online. from what i've seen, there is a piece that runs through the blade that the screws attach to. that piece is proud of the blade on each side and is held in place by the "liners." from what i've seen, you have to pry the frcp handle scales to try and work the blade and that pivot piece out and i've seen at least one handle cracked from trying it.

i'd love to be wrong here, because it means i can take my xhp manix blade out and better maintain it.

i can't seem to find the pictures that i'm referring to right now, but i'll keep looking so i can link it here.

I guess I misunderstood your question, yes, you do have to pry the handle (and the "Liner" Steel Washers) apart to get the Pivot (and the blade) out ("there is a piece that runs through the blade that the screws attach to" = Pivot).

The Pivot looks exactly like the Pivot in a SS lined Manix 2.

Check out my Maxamet Manix on the left (RIP, blade broke in two since that picture was taken):

[Sharp Guy]

All I can say here is some of you are missing out on a great LW knife. I've had 4 M2 LWs (currently have 3) and I've never had an issue with any of them. Yeah I'd prefer screwed construction but if Spyderco wants to use pinned construction then so be it. I could see the concern about maintenance with a non-stainless blade but I haven't had any issues with the BD1, XHP, and S110V knives that I have. Heck I have knives with non-stainless blades with construction that I can take apart but I don't typically do it for regular maintenance. It's a nice option to have if I need it but I won't let it keep me from enjoying a M2 LW because it's pinned.

[ladybug93]

All I can say here is some of you are missing out on a great LW knife. I've had 4 M2 LWs (currently have 3) and I've never had an issue with any of them. Yeah I'd prefer screwed construction but if Spyderco wants to use pinned construction then so be it. I could see the concern about maintenance with a non-stainless blade but I haven't had any issues with the BD1, XHP, and S110V knives that I have. Heck I have knives with non-stainless blades with construction that I can take apart but I don't typically do it for regular maintenance. It's a nice option to have if I need it but I won't let it keep me from enjoying a M2 LW because it's pinned.

i agree that it's a great knife and people shouldn't let the pins stop them. i haven't had any real issues with my xhp version, but the one spot it started developing makes me hesitant to get one in maxamet. that was really the point of this thread. i'd love to try a maxamet m2lw, but i find it hard to believe that they even make one considering the fact that you can't take care of the blade. maybe it's not a big deal to them because they've only recently allowed us to disassemble the knives in the first place.

i hope spyderco will consider a screwed construction m2lw in the future. if so, i'd be all over that maxamet version.

[carrot]

For a knife like the Manix with its CBBL, I would like screws to allow access to the lock mechanism.
I can grudgingly live with pinned construction on backlocks but thats about it.
I personally do not understand peoples fears of having screws fall out. In the ‘field’ or anywhere. I have never had the screws fall out of any knife, let alone one of Spyderco quality.
I don’t understand that point of view, I can respect and accept it though.

As anybody with mechanical experience can tell you, screws that are not cranked down will fall off if they get enough vibrating action. And every screw on a knife besides pivot brushing knives need to be loose so the action is smooth and light.

Just this morning I pulled my new SE Dragonfly Salt out of my drawer and discovered the clip had fallen off because the clip screw had loosened. I went to Loctite it and I noticed the pivot was loose too. When I get back home I am going to also check the lockbar screws.

Last month I almost lost my new Dragonfly ZDP because the clip fell off with it clipped to my pocket. That screw was loose too. I had to order a new clip and screw from SFO, at my expense. That’s an unacceptable extra surprise cost. I bought a Cara Cara Ti used and every single screw was so loose the previous owner thought he was selling me a bum knife. I tightened up and loctited every one of the screws and the action is now as good as any of Spyderco’s best.

I’ve lost one of three clip screws on several other Spydies too.

If I am going to gift a knife or bring a new one out into the field the last thing I want to worry about is losing a screw. I have come to really enjoy the few pinned Spydies that still exist. They are low maintenance, easy to clean, and incredibly reliable.

Otherwise I am not planning to carry two sets of Torx and a little tube of loctite.