Thanks for the responses guys :)Surfingringo wrote:The cbn/diamonds work great for reprofiling and even provide a good finish if you are looking for a coarse edge.......Ankerson wrote: .....
I would think the CBN stones would be good for that, then move to the Med etc.
Sharpening S110V
Re: Sharpening S110V
-Matt a.k.a. Lo_Que, loadedquestions135 I ❤ The P'KAL
"The world of edges has a small doorway in, but opens into a cavern that is both wide and deep." -sal
"The world of edges has a small doorway in, but opens into a cavern that is both wide and deep." -sal
"Ghost hunters scope the edge." -sal
- Surfingringo
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Re: Sharpening S110V
Depending on what you’re cutting, you can get a much BETTER cutting edge than finishing with the fine rods. With precision and very light passes you can get a knife to whittle free hanging hair off the sm medium rods. That edge will have FAR more bite than an edge finished on the fine or UF rods. To confirm this, finish a knife on the medium rods then finish another knife on the UF rods and then try cutting some heavy polypropylene rope with each. The coarser finish will slice right through the rope where the more refined (and likely “sharper”) finish will slide over the hard material as if it’s not even sharp. This can also be observed cleaning fish and game. Refined edges have their uses but an edge with some bite is far more useful and functional for most tasks. I think some people when they hear “coarse edge” think we are saying “less sharp”. That does not have to be the case. High sharpness off a coarse stone makes for an amazing edge.MichaelScott wrote:So, if I’m understanding this discussion correctly, if I do a careful job of sharpening with the brown Sharpmaker rods to obtain a more coarse finish (say, 40º setting) I can get as good a cutting edge as finishing up with the white rods?
- from a sharpening novice -
Re: Sharpening S110V
<mattman *liked* your post>Surfingringo wrote:Depending on what you’re cutting, you can get a much BETTER cutting edge than finishing with the fine rods. With precision and very light passes you can get a knife to whittle free hanging hair off the sm medium rods. That edge will have FAR more bite than an edge finished on the fine or UF rods. To confirm this, finish a knife on the medium rods then finish another knife on the UF rods and then try cutting some heavy polypropylene rope with each. The coarser finish will slice right through the rope where the more refined (and likely “sharper”) finish will slide over the hard material as if it’s not even sharp. This can also be observed cleaning fish and game. Refined edges have their uses but an edge with some bite is far more useful and functional for most tasks. I think some people when they hear “coarse edge” think we are saying “less sharp”. That does not have to be the case. High sharpness off a coarse stone makes for an amazing edge.MichaelScott wrote:So, if I’m understanding this discussion correctly, if I do a careful job of sharpening with the brown Sharpmaker rods to obtain a more coarse finish (say, 40º setting) I can get as good a cutting edge as finishing up with the white rods?
- from a sharpening novice -
Re: Sharpening S110V
I agree with Lance about the utility of a very sharp toothy edge. Back when I polished all my edges I would find them sliding off the work without biting in. A toothy edge is like serrations, but on a microscopic scale.
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Re: Sharpening S110V
That's too cool, clovehitch, and by your username, your Dad clearly taught you the art of knot making, as well.
For between a diamond stone, and a strop, you say I can use a ceramic stone. Does ceramic come by grit number, or simply by fine, extra fine, etc?
What do you suggest is a good grit / coarseness combination for the three products, including micron size for the diamond paste?
For between a diamond stone, and a strop, you say I can use a ceramic stone. Does ceramic come by grit number, or simply by fine, extra fine, etc?
What do you suggest is a good grit / coarseness combination for the three products, including micron size for the diamond paste?
Re: Sharpening S110V
I'm not sure that stropping away a burr is best practice and I'm inclined to think you probably shouldn't strop until you've absolutely minimised any burr by cutting it away with progressively lighter and lighter alternating passes on a stone.
Just my 2c worth. :)
Just my 2c worth. :)
A day without laughter is a day wasted. ~ Charlie Chaplin
Re: Sharpening S110V
I just avoid burrs is all and I've found the burr left by the F and UF SharpMaker rods on a blade sharpened using ultra light pressure is near non existent and strops away with the palm of your hand. :)clovehitch wrote: ↑Wed Feb 28, 2018 7:37 pmSure, that's more efficient generally. But in the case of the spyderco UF stone, the burr you leave after hitting both sides a few times will strop out quite easily.Bloke wrote: ↑Wed Feb 28, 2018 6:50 pmI'm not sure that stropping away a burr is best practice and I'm inclined to think you probably shouldn't strop until you've absolutely minimised any burr by cutting it away with progressively lighter and lighter alternating passes on a stone.
Just my 2c worth. :)
A day without laughter is a day wasted. ~ Charlie Chaplin
Re: Sharpening S110V
if you're leaving a burr you can detect without specialized magnification equipment when using the ultrafine stones, something went wrong. If I can detect a burr off the mediums I keep using them until I can't, much less progressing from fine to ultrafine.
Re: Sharpening S110V
Hey Vivi, I touched up three blades that were still 'sharp' but not clean shaving after cutting up cardboard on the weekend.
I used the med rods on the SM and took a leaf out of your book. I didn't fix or hold the SM I just placed it on the kitchen work bench like I saw you do. :cool:
When I was done after half a dozen strokes, the only way I could detect a burr was by letting the weight of the blade bite into a three day growth on my face. One side of the blade bit a wee bit better than the other.
I stropped on my palm and called it good.
Last edited by Bloke on Wed Feb 28, 2018 9:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
A day without laughter is a day wasted. ~ Charlie Chaplin
Re: Sharpening S110V
yep, that feather touch does the trick, regardless of what grit you're using. the strip of steel forming the apex is pretty thin!
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Re: Sharpening S110V
Bloke wrote: ↑Wed Feb 28, 2018 8:40 pmHey Vivi, I touched up three blades that were still 'sharp' but not clean shaving after cutting up cardboard on the weekend.
I used the med rods on the SM and took a leaf out of your book. I didn't fix or hold the SM I just placed it on the kitchen work bench like I saw you do. :cool:
When I was done after half a dozen strokes, the only way I could detect a burr was by letting the weight of the blade bite into a three day growth on my face. One side of the blade bit a wee bit better than the other.
I stropped on my palm and called it good.
Was this with an S110V blade?
Re: Sharpening S110V
No mate. The blades were Vanax, S30V and S110V's cousin S90V. :)
A day without laughter is a day wasted. ~ Charlie Chaplin
Re: Sharpening S110V
Couldn't say. It's a knife brother Bluntcut made that I've been playing with. :)
A day without laughter is a day wasted. ~ Charlie Chaplin
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Re: Sharpening S110V
Bluntcut.......................try saying that ten times, fast :)
Re: Sharpening S110V
That's the newest version of Vanax called Vanax SC (SuperClean). Imagine LC200N with a bunch of hard carbides (mostly from 3.5% vanadium and some from the 1.1% molybdenum and 18% chromium).
Have: old S30V Native, HAP40 Endura, ZDP DF2, S110V Manix LW, Cru-wear Para 3, SE H1 DF2, S90V Native 5, K390 Urban, SE Pac Salt, P.I.T.S., XHP Manix LW, SB Caly 3, B70P, PMA11, K03, Kapara, REX 45 Military, 154CM Manix LW, Swick, AEB-L Urban, KC Cruwear Manix, M390 PM2, Mantra 2, CruCarta Shaman, M390 Manix, K390 Police 4, S90V Manix LW, Rex 45 Manix LW, 20CV Manix, Rex 45 Lil’Native, Shaman, C208GP, Cruwear Manix, Cruwear Manix, M4 Chief, Z-max!!!
Want: SPY27, K490, Swick 5.
Want: SPY27, K490, Swick 5.
Re: Sharpening S110V
Thanks attila! :o
I don't have any LC200N but a month in salt water has had zero effect on Vanax SC. :)
A day without laughter is a day wasted. ~ Charlie Chaplin
Re: Sharpening S110V
It’s that good isn’t it ?
Chris :spyder:
Re: Sharpening S110V
That's a great point you make there SURF because I've also found that especially with kitchen Spyders that an edge that's a bit more coarse and toothy does do considerably better with a toothy edge. I've found that some of my other benchstones ( non-Spyderco) do leave edges on most steels just like you've described.Surfingringo wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2018 3:34 pmDepending on what you’re cutting, you can get a much BETTER cutting edge than finishing with the fine rods. With precision and very light passes you can get a knife to whittle free hanging hair off the sm medium rods. That edge will have FAR more bite than an edge finished on the fine or UF rods. To confirm this, finish a knife on the medium rods then finish another knife on the UF rods and then try cutting some heavy polypropylene rope with each. The coarser finish will slice right through the rope where the more refined (and likely “sharper”) finish will slide over the hard material as if it’s not even sharp. This can also be observed cleaning fish and game. Refined edges have their uses but an edge with some bite is far more useful and functional for most tasks. I think some people when they hear “coarse edge” think we are saying “less sharp”. That does not have to be the case. High sharpness off a coarse stone makes for an amazing edge.MichaelScott wrote:So, if I’m understanding this discussion correctly, if I do a careful job of sharpening with the brown Sharpmaker rods to obtain a more coarse finish (say, 40º setting) I can get as good a cutting edge as finishing up with the white rods?
- from a sharpening novice -
I do however find that several of these supersteels like M390, S110V, XHP ect do have some cutting advantages after using a Spyderco Ultra-Fine stone on them>> but the one qualifier to make that work is that you have to have an edge that floats through flimsy paper before that polishing/refinement gives you any advantage. But I have experienced what you've declared about some polished/refined edges not being as aggressive as you might believe. And I have had some great working edges especially with VG-10 blade steel by just using only the Spyderco medium stones. Very interesting thread thus far
Re: Sharpening S110V
G'day clovehitch, :)
The refined edge versus the coarse edge debate rages here from time to time and we ultimately agree to disagree. :rolleyes:
Somethings just don't change. A couple of things being, a super refined edge won't cut rope and it won't cut through fish bones.
A few of the brothers here have stated they can achieve a hair whittling edge off the medium stones using a SharpMaker. I didn't doubt them but I've never had to whittle hair and thought nothing of it.
As it goes I've been playing with my SharpMaker a fair bit over the last week or so and out of boredom and a little curiosity the other night after dinner, I took a little German made paring knife of some sort of 440 Stainless flavour I'd guess fairly easily to hair whittling off the medium stones. Now I'm not saying I can do the same with S110V and I haven't tried but what I can say is, in my time playing with knives this would have to be the ultimate edge for my requirements at least.
The refined edge versus the coarse edge debate rages here from time to time and we ultimately agree to disagree. :rolleyes:
Somethings just don't change. A couple of things being, a super refined edge won't cut rope and it won't cut through fish bones.
A few of the brothers here have stated they can achieve a hair whittling edge off the medium stones using a SharpMaker. I didn't doubt them but I've never had to whittle hair and thought nothing of it.
As it goes I've been playing with my SharpMaker a fair bit over the last week or so and out of boredom and a little curiosity the other night after dinner, I took a little German made paring knife of some sort of 440 Stainless flavour I'd guess fairly easily to hair whittling off the medium stones. Now I'm not saying I can do the same with S110V and I haven't tried but what I can say is, in my time playing with knives this would have to be the ultimate edge for my requirements at least.
A day without laughter is a day wasted. ~ Charlie Chaplin