Vivi wrote:
More pressure is NEVER the answer when sharpening.
If you had actually read what I posted, you would have noted that my comment about pressure is that as the stone clogs, the natural reaction to an otherwise unaware user is to apply more pressure. Oil helps the stone stay clear, helps remove/flush the spent steel, and consequentially keeps it cutting longer and more efficiently, and therefore the unaware/newcomer won't immediately resort to adding more pressure. You're blaming for a problem you're perpetuating.
the Southerner wrote:Don't bother with the sharpie, too much work.
How much have you used your tri-angle rods? When was the last time you washed them? You have to clean them because the steel you're cutting off the blade inevitably gets lodged/clogged into the actual abrasive, and then the stones don't cut the steel nearly as well. It can get to the point where you can't even sharpen the knife.
Also, do you sharpen dry? The ceramics really do need mineral oil. If you really have no idea, I'd suggest lapping the ceramics. Get another medium ceramic or cheapo fine diamond plate and basically grind one against each other to cut off the surface of the tri-angle rods. It's a failsafe way of making sure the tri-angle will cut the steel because now you have truly fresh ceramic exposed.
Don't over think your angle consistency, it's probably the stone being clogged/worn. You need it to cut as well as possible for S110V because of how extremely hard S110V is, it's obviously far far beyond a normal kitchen knife.
No offense, but you're relatively new on this forum and keep telling people to lap ceramics and use oil on them. That's completely counter to anything I've ever read and even Sal commented on an earlier post you made about lapping the Sharpmaker ceramics. It's great you want to help, but it really seems like to you are pushing some "fake news" here.
Sal thought I was talking about new stones out of the box. I wasn't and clarified that I meant used stones. Not sure what he said after that tbh.
the Southerner wrote:
I was implying that post counts are meaningless. Too bad that flew right over your head.
It's good that post count doesn't matter since at the rate you're going pissing everyone off you probably won't make it to 100. You enjoy the rest of your stay though.
the Southerner wrote:
I was implying that post counts are meaningless. Too bad that flew right over your head.
It's good that post count doesn't matter since at the rate you're going pissing everyone off you probably won't make it to 100. You enjoy the rest of your stay though.
It is indeed a hard gig keeping such an entrenched echochamber straight. What's scary is that bladeforums is actually far worse.
I'm amazed that someone can look at lawyer literature, consider it "scientific" and ignore what people have known about oil and abrasives for many, many years. The problem is that this circulates indefinitely without outside intervention. So newcomers let their stones clog up, and the first time they cut with their massive burr edge the burr rips off and the edge is gone, so they come here asking for help, and they're told, "you have go to super duper 1000 degrees inside the convex inclusive because this is a super duper niobioumvandiumunobtanium steel that has years of edge retention," and by that point everyone is confused.
Regarding actual s110v the topic of this post. I would like to know your outcome hence when mine starts to get the least bit dull it gets stropped immediately. Let us know if you can get it to the point that your looking for hence that is one rock hard steel.
SC_PATRIOT wrote:Regarding actual s110v the topic of this post. I would like to know your outcome hence when mine starts to get the least bit dull it gets stropped immediately. Let us know if you can get it to the point that your looking for hence that is one rock hard steel.
What are you stropping with? You can easily dull your edge stropping because the strop isn't exactly cutting the steel, if it's just leather, and it promotes burr formation. The harder you go with the steel, the worse this problem becomes.
the Southerner wrote:
I was implying that post counts are meaningless. Too bad that flew right over your head.
It's good that post count doesn't matter since at the rate you're going pissing everyone off you probably won't make it to 100. You enjoy the rest of your stay though.
It is indeed a hard gig keeping such an entrenched echochamber straight. What's scary is that bladeforums is actually far worse.
I'm amazed that someone can look at lawyer literature, consider it "scientific" and ignore what people have known about oil and abrasives for many, many years. The problem is that this circulates indefinitely without outside intervention. So newcomers let their stones clog up, and the first time they cut with their massive burr edge the burr rips off and the edge is gone, so they come here asking for help, and they're told, "you have go to super duper 1000 degrees inside the convex inclusive because this is a super duper niobioumvandiumunobtanium steel that has years of edge retention," and by that point everyone is confused.
1. You are giving advice that directly counters Sal, the manufacturer, who I would guess has a tad more experience in this field than you, and whose word certainly carries more weight here. Sal raised the issues on your lapping protocol previously.
2. Personal insults against members won't get you far here.
3. If indeed this is just an echochamber, why do you keep returning if not to troll?
4. Who here suggested that the OP let his stones clog up? Somehow a lot of us have achieved hair popping edges for many years without your techniques, I guess that's a fluke.
So many knives, so few pockets... :)
-Nick
Last in: N5 Magnacut The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal
araneae wrote:
1. You are giving advice that directly counters Sal, the manufacturer, who I would guess has a tad more experience in this field than you, and whose word certainly carries more weight here. Sal raised the issues on your lapping protocol previously.
2. Personal insults against members won't get you far here.
3. If indeed this is just an echochamber, why do you keep returning if not to troll?
4. Who here suggested that the OP let his stones clog up? Somehow a lot of us have achieved hair popping edges for many years without your techniques, I guess that's a fluke.
As I said previously, Sal thought I was talking about ceramics out of the box new. I meant used ceramics and clarified in that thread.
And again, manufacturers are in the business of making money, which also means reducing liability. Asking them for performance tips is at best naive and at worst stupid. They're going to regurgitate the lawyer line about their warranty, nothing more or less. You've apparently absorbed very little over all those years and years of hair popping edges. I insult you because you deserve to be insulted.
I also return to set obvious misinformation straight because of how irresponsible you people are with newcomers. You basically feed them the circlejerk system so that they can be one of your ego reinforcements.
Clogging depends on usage, and you can never really clean out all the steel, that's why you have to lap, that and wear from usage. You don't use your knives, so you don't experience the difficulty that comes with actually using your stones.
araneae wrote:
1. You are giving advice that directly counters Sal, the manufacturer, who I would guess has a tad more experience in this field than you, and whose word certainly carries more weight here. Sal raised the issues on your lapping protocol previously.
2. Personal insults against members won't get you far here.
3. If indeed this is just an echochamber, why do you keep returning if not to troll?
4. Who here suggested that the OP let his stones clog up? Somehow a lot of us have achieved hair popping edges for many years without your techniques, I guess that's a fluke.
As I said previously, Sal thought I was talking about ceramics out of the box new. I meant used ceramics and clarified in that thread.
And again, manufacturers are in the business of making money, which also means reducing liability. Asking them for performance tips is at best naive and at worst stupid. They're going to regurgitate the lawyer line about their warranty, nothing more or less. You've apparently absorbed very little over all those years and years of hair popping edges. I insult you because you deserve to be insulted.
I also return to set obvious misinformation straight because of how irresponsible you people are with newcomers. You basically feed them the circlejerk system so that they can be one of your ego reinforcements.
Clogging depends on usage, and you can never really clean out all the steel, that's why you have to lap, that and wear from usage. You don't use your knives, so you don't experience the difficulty that comes with actually using your stones.
I hope you enjoy your time here, I sense it will be a short stay, welcome to the ignore list.
So many knives, so few pockets... :)
-Nick
Last in: N5 Magnacut The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal
Cliff Stamp wrote:The stones are solid, they won't significantly absorb the oil.
As to why you use lubricant, it is because properly applied, it enhances cutting, and minimizes degradation of the abrasive hence why lubricants are so common in industry. As with anything you can do it improperly. The level of lubrication has to be matched to the grit size, pressure and heat applied.
For fine grits, low force and low temperature, a very light lubricant is likely to be ideal. Mineral oil is likely to only be useful on the really coarse stones.
I agree with all of the above and use my medium and fine ceramic Sharpmaker rods dry anyway. Given that I only use the Sharpmaker for final apexing and touch-ups, the pass counts are so low that it hardly seems necessary. It has been easy to keep the stones clean with the belt cleaning "eraser" I use with my 1x30" and a very occasional scrubbing with BKF or similar.
the Southerner wrote:
I was implying that post counts are meaningless. Too bad that flew right over your head.
It's good that post count doesn't matter since at the rate you're going pissing everyone off you probably won't make it to 100. You enjoy the rest of your stay though.
Well, looks like he made it just over half way and now his account no longer exists. :rolleyes: Good call.
Marko1478 wrote:Hi,
I have a Para 3 with S110V steel and I also bought the tri-angle sharpmaker so I have the coarse rods and the finer rods. I sharpened one of my beat up kitchen knives to a shaving sharp edge. It just glides through all the hair.
But the Para 3 on the other hand.. I am able to shave a bit of hair if I put some pressure on the blade and I can also cut paper relatively easy, but it's nowhere near the kitchen knife. I used a sharpie and I got all of it off of the bevel but still it isn't as sharp as I would like.
What should I do? I used the 30 degree setting first and then moved to the 40 degree setting.
to address the original topic:
from my experience, s110v sharpens up like any other steel, it just takes a longer time for anything to happen that doesn't involve diamonds.
take a little bit more time, and perhaps add a strop step in at the end.
EDC Rotation: PITS, Damasteel Urban, Shaman, Ikuchi, Amalgam, CruCarta Shaman, Sage 5 LW, Serrated Caribbean Sheepsfoot CQI, XHP Shaman, M4/Micarta Shaman, 15v Shaman Fixed Blades: Proficient, Magnacut Mule Special and Sentimental: Southard, Squarehead LW, Ouroboros, Calendar Para 3 LW, 40th Anniversary Native, Ti Native, Calendar Watu, Tanto PM2 Would like to own again: CQI Caribbean Sheepsfoot PE, Watu Wishlist: Magnacut, Shaman Sprints!
I have not found the Sharpmaker to be very effective at sharpening S110V to a very high sharpness, compared to a variety of other steels. It gets sharp, but not like the rest. I have not tried oil on my stones since my old Arkansas stones. I don't see any reason it wouldn't work, but haven't found it necessary to get most knives sharp.
The Sharpmaker instruction VHS recommends rubbing the corners of the brown rods together when new. Perhaps very old stones like mine benefit from lapping. They certainly cut less aggressively as they get older.
I have also not found ceramics in general to be useful for polishing full bevels. If your edge bevel matches the Sharpmaker exactly, it's going to take a LONG time to sharpen. I only recommend the Sharpmaker as a finishing/microbeveling and touch up tool. A good coarse stone is a good idea to pair with it for rebeveling. Aim for a couple degrees lower, 2 to 5 degrees or so, than the desired Sharpmaker setting. I have slowly moved lower over the years, from 17/20 degrees to 12/15. I'm trying to figure out how to get to 7/10.
