Spyderco's Sharpening Equipment

[JD Spydo]

Well we've done some threads on various Spyderco sharpening tools over the years but I would like for this to be a comprehensive thread to cover every Sharpening Tool that Spyderco has done from the beginning till Now. We are all aware of the genius that went into the 204 Sharpmaker and most of us here use one often. But what about the more obscure Spyderco sharpening tools that you don't hear much about like the old GALLEY V unit and the great 302 model Benchstones which I've had excellent results with.

The Spyderco 701 Profiles are probably the best hidden secret in the overall Spyderco Sharpening tool line up. To me the 701 Profiles are just as genius of a design as the 204 Sharpmaker is. What I wouldn't do for a set of 701 Profiles in about 5 or 6 different grit selections. What about the series 400 file set? What about the SlipStone? And where is the GAUNTLET by the way?>> I'm being patient but when will it come to fruition?

What about woodworking applications? And which Spyderco sharpening tools do you all use for your favorite EDC models? And last but certainly not least I would like to hear what you all would suggest to Spyderco to enhance or improve their sharpening tool line up. I consider Spyderco's sharpening tools just as great of a find as I do their great knives. So what do you all say???

[zhyla]

What about woodworking applications?

For my personal woodworking uses (bench plane blades, spokeshaves chisels, plain edge knives), I don't see much use in tiny stones. I use sandpaper on a stone tile for sharpening all of that. The planes in particular benefit from a highly polished edge and being able to take them up to 5000 grit is fantastic. And doing that on a big flat surface where I can use a blade holder to maintain (and measure!) the angle is very helpful. I wouldn't ever try to do that on a tiny stone.

[JD Spydo]

What about woodworking applications?

For my personal woodworking uses (bench plane blades, spokeshaves chisels, plain edge knives), I don't see much use in tiny stones. I use sandpaper on a stone tile for sharpening all of that. The planes in particular benefit from a highly polished edge and being able to take them up to 5000 grit is fantastic. And doing that on a big flat surface where I can use a blade holder to maintain (and measure!) the angle is very helpful. I wouldn't ever try to do that on a tiny stone.

If you remember that video that Sal did on the 204 Sharpmaker there are ways you can put those stone flat on the back side and I've had people tell me that they have had excellent results using them like that. I also had one woodworking friend who said he really liked the Spyderco 302 Benchstones. It is interesting that Spyderco's sharpening tools are just as high quality as their blades are. They are indeed quality minded people.

I have no idea what it even consists of but I've heard that there are features on the upcoming GAUNTLET system that will sharpen woodworking tools nicely.

[JD Spydo]

I can't hardly believe this :confused: After one day hardly no one has anything good to say about Spyderco's great line up of sharpening tools :confused: ???? And with all the threads I see on the 204 Sharpmaker alone :confused: :confused: ???

Or maybe I'm in the middle of an old "Twilight Zone" episode and I'm going to wake up soon :rolleyes:

With the GAUNTLET about to become reality and with all the sharp edges you all owe to the Great Spyder Factory and you all ain't got nothing good to say about those great sharpening tool :confused: ??

I must be in a different dimension or something :confused: This is the Spyderco.com Forum isn't it??? :confused: Yeah I got it>> "This Door Unlocks The Key To Your Imagination" Next Stop The Spyder Zone :eek:

[ZrowsN1s]

I'm enjoying my sharpmaker JD. My only suggestion for it has been an alternate base with different angle settings like 35 degrees per side and 12 degrees per side maybe even a 10 degrees per side for high end kitchen knives or for those of us who like thin bevels on their ZDP dragonflys and other pocket lightsabers. I've heard others ask for more storage space for stones, if they made an alternative base and you also have the stock base, now you can store 4 sets of stones.

Another suggestion I previously made was something to give the Golden Stone a 30 degree inclusive angle. I was very happy to see that Spyderco has done just that. I will likely get one when they drop :D

[Evil D]

Personally I'd buy a Fold-A-V today if they were available. Lansky still makes them which I guess is a fair alternative. The idea of a foldable pocket Sharpmaker is very appealing to me.

[bearfacedkiller]

I would like to see more diamond rods for the sharpmaker.

[ZrowsN1s]

I would like to see more diamond rods for the sharpmaker.

A coarse 500 grit , or even a extra coarse 250 grit wold be ideal for major reprofile work.

[bearfacedkiller]

I believe the current rod is 400 grit. A 200 would be great!

[ZrowsN1s]

Is it 400? that's pretty good. I may have to spend the $70 and pick one up, I thought it was more like 800 for some reason.
I have a 150 grit for the KME, it works like a champ, but I almost always scratch the blade with it. 200-250 would be better.

[koenigsegg]

Is it 400? that's pretty good. I may have to spend the $70 and pick one up, I thought it was more like 800 for some reason.
I have a 150 grit for the KME, it works like a champ, but I almost always scratch the blade with it. 200-250 would be better.

I kept scratching my blade too until I got a stop for the rod so I can't push the over the blade anymore. I used a gear from an erector set with a set screw but they sell them with the convexing rod

[jshperdue]

I have the medium and fine pocket stones, sharpmaker, and medium sized Ultrafine bench stone.

My favorite of these is the pocket sized stones for keeping an edge on my edc knives. I wish they made a coarser grit ceramic pocket stone. As of right now I just use a 6” coarse dmt if my edge is dulled to severe but that rarely happens. An Ultrafine pocket stone would just be icing on the cake.

I often read how people really like their profile rods. I’d like to try a set of those one day.

[JD Spydo]

I'm enjoying my sharpmaker JD. My only suggestion for it has been an alternate base with different angle settings like 35 degrees per side and 12 degrees per side maybe even a 10 degrees per side for high end kitchen knives or for those of us who like thin bevels on their ZDP dragonflys and other pocket lightsabers. I've heard others ask for more storage space for stones, if they made an alternative base and you also have the stock base, now you can store 4 sets of stones.

Another suggestion I previously made was something to give the Golden Stone a 30 degree inclusive angle. I was very happy to see that Spyderco has done just that. I will likely get one when they drop :D

Yes you really do make some great points there "Zrow" especially about the GOLDENSTONE. I do think there are a lot of really intriguing possibilities that they could explore with that most unique sharpening stone. First and foremost it needs to be offered up in multiple grit selections. That alone would make that tool very much desired in the knife community.

Also I've said for years that the 204 Sharpmaker also has room for additional stones and even some modifications to the original overall design. Because at this time the 204 Sharpmaker doesn't have a very coarse, aggressive stone for rapid stock removal. Even a more coarse diamond stone would be a great improvement to the system.

[the Southerner]

And last but certainly not least I would like to hear what you all would suggest to Spyderco to enhance or improve their sharpening tool line up.

As with the very high quality of the knives, it is difficult to improve the abrasives at this point. The only thing left would be to produce their own versions of other mainstream abrasives, like Shapton stones or waterstones. That would of course increase cost, and I think the costs have gotten too high with the 2nd MAP. For me, the medium and fine ceramic stones are perfect. Use those with mineral oil from walmart and lap for about 2 minutes whenever I think they're clogged. The lapping is really just to cut out the clogged steel that can't be flushed out, though I assume that at some point the abrasive must itself also wear.

[vivi]

I'm going to have to try some diamond sharpmaker rods this year. I usually use DMT bench stones for reprofile, but I'd like to see how well it works on the SM. Even if I find myself preferring the DMT still for PE knives, I know I can use the diamond rods on recurves and serrated edges at least.

Use those with mineral oil from walmart and lap for about 2 minutes whenever I think they're clogged. The lapping is really just to cut out the clogged steel that can't be flushed out, though I assume that at some point the abrasive must itself also wear.

This is bad advice and I suggest anyone reading this thread do not follow it. It contradicts what spyderco themselves recommend, as well as every single person I know that has used the Sharpmaker for the past 15 years.

[the Southerner]

I'm going to have to try some diamond sharpmaker rods this year. I usually use DMT bench stones for reprofile, but I'd like to see how well it works on the SM. Even if I find myself preferring the DMT still for PE knives, I know I can use the diamond rods on recurves and serrated edges at least.

Use those with mineral oil from walmart and lap for about 2 minutes whenever I think they're clogged. The lapping is really just to cut out the clogged steel that can't be flushed out, though I assume that at some point the abrasive must itself also wear.

This is bad advice and I suggest anyone reading this thread do not follow it. It contradicts what spyderco themselves recommend, as well as every single person I know that has used the Sharpmaker for the past 15 years.

Keep in mind that most people here don't use their knives, they just post knife selfies. Consequentially, most don't know very much about sharpening because they never used their knives enough to warrant a bottom-top complete sharpening job, but they use all the right words like "2000 ultra degrees inclusive." They don't use their knives because of how expensive Spydercos were and are, but then they turn around and say that the price is a real bargain. This is a very special echochamber.

The rules of sharpening are:

1) Always use a lubricant. Ceramics and norton crystolone/india stones need an oil, preferably mineral oil because it lacks petrochemical additives. Waterstones as you can probably tell need water, and Diamond works with water well, though you can use mineral oil too. With diamond water works because you're not worried about the plate clogging so much as the steel getting burred by the intensive and raw manner the way diamond cuts. The plates are not porous, so you can visibly see the steel getting washed out of the way.

2) Just like how your steel wears out, abrasives also wear out, even Diamond, though extremely, extremely, *extremely* slowly. DMT's for example above the 600 grit level actually need a "break-in" period where you have to literally grind out the grit-contamination. The break-in for the extra extra fine I had took so long that I got fed up and sold the thing. Horrible grit-contamination. On the other hand, I have an India stone that has been used so much that the once 400 grit "fine" side is now on par with my 1000 grit king waterstone. Just think, you're grinding against the stone a steel that is over 60 rockwell, and in some cases so hard it can't be measured. The abrasive is also going to take a hit.

[vivi]

Keep in mind that most people here don't use their knives, they just post knife selfies.

Posting a photo of a knife does not mean it's never been used, it means that person enjoys taking photos of their knives and sharing them with like-minded hobbyists. That is not a good reason to judge someone negatively.

This knife isn't exactly a safe queen. Neither are any other Spydercos of mine.

Consequentially, most don't know very much about sharpening because they never used their knives enough to warrant a bottom-top complete sharpening job, but they use all the right words like "2000 ultra degrees inclusive." They don't use their knives because of how expensive Spydercos were and are, but then they turn around and say that the price is a real bargain.

I don't put a knife in my pocket until I've reprofiled it and given it a thinner edge than the factory does.

A lot of us are not only knife hobbyists, but sharpening hobbyists as well. You're being rude and insulting by framing us the way you are.

This is a very special echochamber.

You don't seem to like the people who post here. You seem to think you know better than the founder of the company himself. You paint with broad, judgemental strokes, throwing out buzzwords like echochamber when someone confronts your posts.

If reality is as you describe, that we're all folks who buy fancy knives to post knife selfies, and never use them, and know nothing about maintaining them, why are you here? Why do you want to hang out with a group of folks that fit that description, if that really is the case here?

The rules of sharpening are:

1) Always use a lubricant.

Maybe if it's 1950. In 2018 we have sharpening substrates that do not require lubricant to be effective. This is not an opinion, this is a well documented scientific fact backed up by the companies that produce these devices, and the customers who use them.

Let's examine what different sharpening manufacturers advise.

EZE-LAP: Question: Should I use oil or water on the stone when sharpening?

Answer: Either is fine and neither will hurt the stone. However, oil will tend to clog the stone and it will need to be cleaned more often than when using water.

DMT: You can use your
DMT stone dry or with water; as you sharpe
n, metal fines will accumulate on the sharpening surface so you should thoroughly wash the surface
and dry after using.

Spyderco: Made from ultra-hard alumina ceramic material, Spyderco’s ultra-fine-grit bench stone is used like a traditional sharpening stone, but does not require oil or water.

Why should I trust your advice over the companies that make the products I use?

2) Just like how your steel wears out, abrasives also wear out, even Diamond, though extremely, extremely, *extremely* slowly.

Slow enough to not be worth thinking about IMO. I have 25 year old DMT's that work fine. I'm still using my first ever DMT stone, an 8" fine. At the time I purchased it, it was my fastest cutting stone. I reprofiled over 20 knives with it before getting a coarser stone. I still use it to polish edge bevels and sometimes apply the apex to this day.

[the Southerner]

Keep in mind that most people here don't use their knives, they just post knife selfies.

Posting a photo of a knife does not mean it's never been used, it means that person enjoys taking photos of their knives and sharing them with like-minded hobbyists. That is not a good reason to judge someone negatively.

This knife isn't exactly a safe queen. Neither are any other Spydercos of mine.

Consequentially, most don't know very much about sharpening because they never used their knives enough to warrant a bottom-top complete sharpening job, but they use all the right words like "2000 ultra degrees inclusive." They don't use their knives because of how expensive Spydercos were and are, but then they turn around and say that the price is a real bargain.

I don't put a knife in my pocket until I've reprofiled it and given it a thinner edge than the factory does.

A lot of us are not only knife hobbyists, but sharpening hobbyists as well. You're being rude and insulting by framing us the way you are.

This is a very special echochamber.

You don't seem to like the people who post here. You seem to think you know better than the founder of the company himself. You paint with broad, judgemental strokes, throwing out buzzwords like echochamber when someone confronts your posts.

If reality is as you describe, that we're all folks who buy fancy knives to post knife selfies, and never use them, and know nothing about maintaining them, why are you here? Why do you want to hang out with a group of folks that fit that description, if that really is the case here?

The rules of sharpening are:

1) Always use a lubricant.

Maybe if it's 1950. In 2018 we have sharpening substrates that do not require lubricant to be effective. This is not an opinion, this is a well documented scientific fact backed up by the companies that produce these devices, and the customers who use them.

Let's examine what different sharpening manufacturers advise.

EZE-LAP: Question: Should I use oil or water on the stone when sharpening?

Answer: Either is fine and neither will hurt the stone. However, oil will tend to clog the stone and it will need to be cleaned more often than when using water.

DMT: You can use your
DMT stone dry or with water; as you sharpe
n, metal fines will accumulate on the sharpening surface so you should thoroughly wash the surface
and dry after using.

Spyderco: Made from ultra-hard alumina ceramic material, Spyderco’s ultra-fine-grit bench stone is used like a traditional sharpening stone, but does not require oil or water.

Why should I trust your advice over the companies that make the products I use?

2) Just like how your steel wears out, abrasives also wear out, even Diamond, though extremely, extremely, *extremely* slowly.

Slow enough to not be worth thinking about IMO. I have 25 year old DMT's that work fine. I'm still using my first ever DMT stone, an 8" fine. At the time I purchased it, it was my fastest cutting stone. I reprofiled over 20 knives with it before getting a coarser stone. I still use it to polish edge bevels and sometimes apply the apex to this day.

About Diamond: I was making a point that everything will wear out, but of course not equally, which I said. You complained about this non-point because you're mad and you need ammo to throw at me, so you cherry-picked it out of nothing.

Companies: asking companies about performance advice isn't exactly a good idea. Their objective is to make money and reduce liability. Imagine if Sal did recommend lapping and someone came on here and said, "hey I broke my stone by lapping it and you said to lap it, so now you have to give me a free stone." This is obviously a huge liability and cost issue, better to just keep them in the dark and feed them you-know-what, that's why Spyderco doesn't advertise Rockwell hardness ratings. So no, you probably won't be getting the full scoop from Sal. Again, his sole purpose here is to gauge demand/make money and "customer service." In fact, taking company language at face value and actually quoting the lawyer literature, like "we don't recommend" this or "require" that, let alone the full marketing job, is remarkably naive. That you call it "scientific" is blatantly retarded.
If you have never used lubricant with your abrasives, then I promise that once you do, you'll see a marked improvement in edge retention. This isn't some "technological" mystery of the late 20th century. The physics occurring between the blade and the abrasive is fundamentally the same thing we've been doing for some time.

and most forum regulars are indeed garbage. I'm here to counter the echo-chamber consensus and in the process hopefully help newcomers from being drowned in nonsense. I still have two Spyderco's from the good ol' days, a 154cm Manix and regular Delica, so there is a tangible connection as well. We're all hobbyists here, but this forum has really degenerated.

And I'm glad you're re-profiling edges. I gotta say, when you said that, I immediately thought that you don't use your knives. I actually prefer the stock edge angle, not only because I don't feel like reprofiling anything anymore than I have to, but the way I use my knives, and the steels, need the extra thickness. I'm one of those prying/bash types. Spyderco and the others understand that the overwhelming majority of people are also prying/bash types, and use the large angle accordingly as yet another liability bulwark.

[zhyla]

and most forum regulars are indeed garbage.

I think this makes it completely clear to everyone why you're here.

[ThePeacent]

and most forum regulars are indeed garbage.

I think this makes it completely clear to everyone why you're here.

seeing how much he's posted these past days and the quality of each post, maybe he's going to become a "forum regular" himself pretty soon,
what I don't doubt is that he doesn't have to do much more to be the second part of that sentence :spyder: