Can someone show or tell me what a rolled edge looks like?

[ShawnKirkpatrick21]

If you don't have fingernails, try using a toothpick. Alternately, shining a bright light across the flat of the blade from the spine side might show you the rolled edge. It will catch the light and reflect it back. I don't know if my photography skills are up to getting a good picture of it, but I'll see what I can do.

Edit to add: okay, not a very good picture, but you can see the bright line right at the edge where the edge is bent over (rolled). From the other side, you don't see that bright line.

Oh ok. My edge never looked like that. So I'm guessing it wasn't rolled.

[Bodog]

This is really frustrating me that I sharpen my para2 and with little use the edge is shinny and I assume rolled? So could someone post a picture or tell how it looks? Thank you.

I don't want to go too far off the deep end. Sometimes when an edge is too soft it'll roll. If it will roll, it'll also kind of smash instead of roll and it'll be a little less noticeable than a straight up roll. That's why steel junkies want harder steel, because it's less apt to deform. But higher hardness means less toughness so the edge will crack and chip. So guys want steels that are tougher at high hardness. But steels that can be tough and hard normally have less hard carbide volume, which leads to less abrasive resistance. And normally to get tough and hard and some level of abrasive wear resistance you going to have to significantly decrease stain resistance. So it's all a balancing act.

In your case any number of things could cause the problem. That problem is steel that doesn't act the way you want. Your sharpening regimen sounds decent, not like you'd leave a nasty burr that'd roll that easily. So, it could either be knife with a blade with a botched heat treatment, and from spyderco that's not impossible but somewhat unlikely, or you have a steel heat treated in a way that doesn't suit your demands.

After that long winded response, I'd suggest looking at a blade that is harder than what you are currently using. Edges smash on draw cuts and on push cuts. So evaluate how you're cutting things. Push cut or draw cut. With your problem draw cuttint would need higher hardness with good wear resistance. Push cutting would need higher hardness with good toughness.

I'd suggest picking up a Maxamet mule, sharpen it up like you normally do, and use it like you normally do. You'll be able to tell a lot about what you need if you do that.

That and if it's a normal para2 then it has s30v and I'm not a fan of s30v at all because it lacks, relatively, everything I need in a blade and has properties I don't need. I am personally a fan of higher hardness 4V/Vanadis 4 extra. But I don't need a lot of corrosion resistance either.