52100 Military, what are your plans?

[simon711]

I just use a paper towel to apply Flitz. It's great and it doesn't scratch the blade. Just make sure to wipe it off before it dries.

[MacLaren]

Quick question:
Why doosent Sal's name appear on the Military like it does on my Caly 3.5 and the PMII?

[Donut]

It's possible that the design wasn't done completely by him.

[MacLaren]

It's possible that the design wasn't done completely by him.

Ok. Thanx Brian.

[Evil D]

So just a couple observations on this new CQI and some long winded random thoughts....

I started getting really paranoid about rust in the pivot and around the tang where I can't see it, so I decided to take it apart and give it a good coating of Tuf Glide. I had been dropping excessive amounts of TG into the pivot hoping that I get good coverage, but I decided to see for myself. I can live with spot rust on the blade, but the pivot and lock face need to stay squeaky clean.

First, the pivot screws are tighter than any knife screws I've ever dealt with. I don't know what thread locker they use in there but it took a pair of pliers holding the torx bit to carefully break it loose without stripping it. This made me very thankful for the larger screws. Once again I should have tried heating the screw up before hand, but I got it loose in the end. If you're having problems loosening your pivot screw, I would suggest trying to heat the screw a little bit with a soldering iron to help break the thread locker. At least with the screws being larger (I believe mine checked in at a whopping T15) they'll be less likely to strip.

On that note, it also appears to be the largest pivot screw I've seen in a Spyderco knife. They may have used larger screws in other knives like the Tuff or Tatanka, but I've never taken those apart so I can't say for sure. It definitely looked larger overall than the previous pivot, both in diameter of the actual pivot pin/bushing and in outside screws, but I also didn't take my other Military apart to compare. I know some are let down by the loss of the domed pivot because of aesthetic reasons, but this pivot is no doubt stronger than the previous design and that's never a bad thing. I'll take a stronger pivot over a prettier one any day.

The new liner design is very cool also. I didn't get pics because there are already some in this thread somewhere, but the non lock side looks completely updated and has a very large cutout to reduce weight. I'm impressed with that because these liners are already small for this size knife so going the extra mile to skeletonize them is a bonus. The liner design in this knife is what I wish we could see out of every knife made in the future...just enough to get the job done, but no more than that. There's no need to have a full scale-sized skeletonized liner, it's just excess material/machining/cost. This liner could very easily be extended down the rest of the length of the handle to allow for a tapping point for a 4 way clip option, and I really hope that's what we see in the Military 2 because if that knife has full liners like the Para 2, I'm going to be really let down. This iteration of the Military is about as perfect as it can get.

The floating stop pin is pure genius. I even like how it looks from the outside of the knife. I think this design would be perfect for a compression lock, because it could allow the pin to rotate with use, which could prevent sticky compression locks and possibly even extend the wear life of the compression lock.

Something about the larger scale screws and lanyard tube has changed the look of the knife overall. To me it looks much more balanced now. The handle doesn't look so huge anymore. I'm somewhat torn on the loss of the back spacer though. On one hand I think I will always prefer open construction knives, but on the other hand that spacer did serve a purpose beyond the construction of the knife...it gave your palm a more comfortable spot to press into when making hard cuts. On open back knives if you're really using a knife hard, you can end up with a hot spot from your skin pressing inside the knife and onto the sharp edges of the inside of the scales. That little back spacer was enough to create a more broad area to displace the pressure of your hand. What would really be cool is to design a G10 spacer that can snap in and out over top of the standoffs, so you could pop it out for cleaning and then snap it back into place for use.

Overall I'm extremely happy with this knife, both with the CQI changes and the steel. I'm in love with the steel...I've never experienced a steel that is so easy to sharpen and takes such a keen edge. As far as sharpening goes, I'm always open to the possibility that my experiences with one steel or another could just be my ever evolving sharpening skills, and the fact that I've never been able to get another steel as sharp as this could just be where I need to hone my technique with other steels, but there is definitely something special about this steel and the way it takes an edge. I know I'm far from an expert when it comes to sharpening, but I've been very happy with the edges I get and they are always sharper than anything I get from even the best factory edges, but what I'm getting on this steel is on another level. Again, this could just be my experiences and shortcomings when sharpening other steels and may have nothing to do with 52100 itself, but I also suspect that many people will have similar experiences as I'm having. I would be shocked to hear someone say they dislike how this steel sharpens and takes an edge.

[farnorthdan]

Agree on the sharpening David, I've been carrying/using mine since receiving the first one a week or so ago. Been using it to cut just about everything, rope, cardboard, fruit, meat, heavy plastic etc and it holds an edge for a very long time. Like you said, its so easy to sharpen with minimal effort, usually just around 10 strokes per side on the 40' SM setting and its back to hair popping sharp. I love this 52100, its hard for me to admit but I think I like it as much as super blue.

[Evil D]

It's a pitty but I don't believe a steel like this will ever have the popularity of a steel like Super Blue just because it lacks the catchy name.

[farnorthdan]

It's a pitty but I don't believe a steel like this will ever have the popularity of a steel like Super Blue just because it lacks the catchy name.

I hear you there David, I'm sure glad I took the plunge and grabbed a few, by the time those who don't follow the forums find out about these Military's they will all be gone and no one will be willing to let them go (cheap anyways). The more I use mine the more I realize its going to have to be something special to knock this one out of rotation.

[Evil D]

It honestly has me not wanting to carry anything else. I had been missing my old PE Militarys anyway so I was due for one, the last one I had on my radar was the Cruwear version and I missed that one and didn't bother hunting one down for secondary prices. I've become a huge fan of peel ply too so everything about this knife just added up to be a winning combo for me. To be honest they could put just about any steel in this handle/CQI combo and I'd be happy with it. I'm really hoping these changes follow through on all models eventually, I've always wanted a DLC Military so if I can get one with these changes I'll be all over it (also Sal if you're reading, PLEASE give the DLC Military all black hardware and liners while you're at it!).

[Cujobob]

I would agree that Super Blue is more marketable and I think 52100 sounds like a less fancy steel because it's been around a long time and is inexpensive, similar to AEB-L or 1095. If hardened properly, it's very possible 52100 could be many users' favorite steel given its traits. It's really unfortunate about the corrosion factor. If inexpensive steels didn't have inexpensive heat treat regimens on inexpensive knives, we wouldn't see all high end knives being higher carbide blades these days. Even BD1 can be a fantastic steel (I do like MBS-26), I'm curious how hard Spyderco takes it.

My Military hasn't been used much yet unfortunately, but I agree it's a beautiful knife. I don't think the Military is my favorite big knife (the XL Manix is really quite nice) but I can see why this design is around. Would be terrific with gloves on as it's easy to manipulate and the blade really isn't as beefy as the name might suggest, a good thing in my book.

The CF is beautiful and I do like all of the improvements made to this platform (I own a factory seconds Military for comparison). The stop pin looks better, I appreciate larger body screws on a user knife, the pivot still looks decent even though it isn't quite as pleasing to the eye as the last one, the liners are well done, the knife is really lightweight yet strong feeling (doesn't feel flimsy or 'cheap').

I really want some ideally hardened low carbide steels to continue coming out so I hope people do fall in love with these blades. 52100 is not the easiest knife steel to forge and I think the heat treat gets screwed up a lot because of that. In a production setting, I'm hoping it will be a different situation.

[Popsickle]

I decided to take mine apart and let the blade sit in white vinegar for about 4 minutes and i got a nice patina.... putting it together when i get gome after work!

[senorsquare]

It honestly has me not wanting to carry anything else...

Same here. I was just thinking last night about how quickly the 52100 Millie turned into my main user. Now I'm wishing that maybe I'd bought a backup. I did manage to snag a Cruwear Millie that I intend to be a backup to the 52100, but without the CQI changes the Cruwear knife tends to sit in the drawer while the 52100 goes in the pocket.

52100 sharpens like a dream and touches up easy on the sharpmaker. Takes a screaming sharp edge. I managed to dull it a little cutting cardboard but 10 or so passes gets it back to slicing phone book paper with ease. Sharpening wise, I'd say that 52100 and CPM-Cruwear are in the same ballpark.

[abbazaba]

Just got the following email:

Greetings from OpticsPlanet.com!

Thank you for your most recent order. We sincerely apologize, but we have just learned that the following item(s) you ordered is no longer available through OpticsPlanet.com:
==================================================================
Spyderco - Military Model, Black - C36CFP52100 $209.97

[Cujobob]

Just got the following email:

Greetings from OpticsPlanet.com!

Thank you for your most recent order. We sincerely apologize, but we have just learned that the following item(s) you ordered is no longer available through OpticsPlanet.com:
==================================================================
Spyderco - Military Model, Black - C36CFP52100 $209.97

Got that, as well. Honestly didn't expect the order to go through anyways. Was hoping to pick up another for a knifemaker friend.

[Evil D]

So I'm having serious second thoughts about carrying this knife at work. Lately I've been carrying my S90V Yojimbo 2, because 1) that steel is way up there in the corrosion resistance department, and 2) this job sometimes puts me in shady places and shady situations so it's peace of mind, and 3) it makes an awesome utility knife. But, today I got caught in one 10 minute down pour and got thoroughly soaked, and stayed soaked for the rest of my shift. It seems that getting that wet and staying that wet, and then having the knife in my pocket where it's warm, is a perfect recipe for rust because I found some rust on the inside of the thumb hole and a little along the spine. It was just light surface rust and literally rubbed off with a q-tip, but it's enough to tell me that 52100 would probably explode in the same environment. There's really no way for me to stop and dry the knife off either, my only option is to put it in my truck and then that defeats the purpose of carrying a knife. I guess I could carry it and then pack a backup knife in my EDC bag, but I think I sweat enough that it's going to be an issue with rain or without. On one hand I wanna throw caution to the wind and let it be what it's gonna be, but on the other hand I'm just not ready to see it all rust.

[senorsquare]

So I'm having serious second thoughts about carrying this knife at work. Lately I've been carrying my S90V Yojimbo 2, because 1) that steel is way up there in the corrosion resistance department, and 2) this job sometimes puts me in shady places and shady situations so it's peace of mind, and 3) it makes an awesome utility knife. But, today I got caught in one 10 minute down pour and got thoroughly soaked, and stayed soaked for the rest of my shift. It seems that getting that wet and staying that wet, and then having the knife in my pocket where it's warm, is a perfect recipe for rust because I found some rust on the inside of the thumb hole and a little along the spine. It was just light surface rust and literally rubbed off with a q-tip, but it's enough to tell me that 52100 would probably explode in the same environment. There's really no way for me to stop and dry the knife off either, my only option is to put it in my truck and then that defeats the purpose of carrying a knife. I guess I could carry it and then pack a backup knife in my EDC bag, but I think I sweat enough that it's going to be an issue with rain or without. On one hand I wanna throw caution to the wind and let it be what it's gonna be, but on the other hand I'm just not ready to see it all rust.

Did you get a backup? If so, I say carry it and see what happens..

[Evil D]

So I'm having serious second thoughts about carrying this knife at work. Lately I've been carrying my S90V Yojimbo 2, because 1) that steel is way up there in the corrosion resistance department, and 2) this job sometimes puts me in shady places and shady situations so it's peace of mind, and 3) it makes an awesome utility knife. But, today I got caught in one 10 minute down pour and got thoroughly soaked, and stayed soaked for the rest of my shift. It seems that getting that wet and staying that wet, and then having the knife in my pocket where it's warm, is a perfect recipe for rust because I found some rust on the inside of the thumb hole and a little along the spine. It was just light surface rust and literally rubbed off with a q-tip, but it's enough to tell me that 52100 would probably explode in the same environment. There's really no way for me to stop and dry the knife off either, my only option is to put it in my truck and then that defeats the purpose of carrying a knife. I guess I could carry it and then pack a backup knife in my EDC bag, but I think I sweat enough that it's going to be an issue with rain or without. On one hand I wanna throw caution to the wind and let it be what it's gonna be, but on the other hand I'm just not ready to see it all rust.

Did you get a backup? If so, I say carry it and see what happens..

I did. Part of me wants to say screw it and let it go and just do the best I can to keep the rust to a minimum, but the other part of me is more concerned about rust on the pivot and on the lock face. I did grease the pivot while it was apart which I think will go a long way to protect it from rust and I Tuf Glide the rest of the tang and lock face. Even with a backup I'm finding I love this steel so much hate to ruin one of them.

[swigert]

So I'm having serious second thoughts about carrying this knife at work. Lately I've been carrying my S90V Yojimbo 2, because 1) that steel is way up there in the corrosion resistance department, and 2) this job sometimes puts me in shady places and shady situations so it's peace of mind, and 3) it makes an awesome utility knife. But, today I got caught in one 10 minute down pour and got thoroughly soaked, and stayed soaked for the rest of my shift. It seems that getting that wet and staying that wet, and then having the knife in my pocket where it's warm, is a perfect recipe for rust because I found some rust on the inside of the thumb hole and a little along the spine. It was just light surface rust and literally rubbed off with a q-tip, but it's enough to tell me that 52100 would probably explode in the same environment. There's really no way for me to stop and dry the knife off either, my only option is to put it in my truck and then that defeats the purpose of carrying a knife. I guess I could carry it and then pack a backup knife in my EDC bag, but I think I sweat enough that it's going to be an issue with rain or without. On one hand I wanna throw caution to the wind and let it be what it's gonna be, but on the other hand I'm just not ready to see it all rust.

Did you get a backup? If so, I say carry it and see what happens..

I did. Part of me wants to say screw it and let it go and just do the best I can to keep the rust to a minimum, but the other part of me is more concerned about rust on the pivot and on the lock face. I did grease the pivot while it was apart which I think will go a long way to protect it from rust and I Tuf Glide the rest of the tang and lock face. Even with a backup I'm finding I love this steel so much hate to ruin one of them.

What if you gave up on the patina? And wiped it with a tuf clothe every day.

[Evil D]

So I'm having serious second thoughts about carrying this knife at work. Lately I've been carrying my S90V Yojimbo 2, because 1) that steel is way up there in the corrosion resistance department, and 2) this job sometimes puts me in shady places and shady situations so it's peace of mind, and 3) it makes an awesome utility knife. But, today I got caught in one 10 minute down pour and got thoroughly soaked, and stayed soaked for the rest of my shift. It seems that getting that wet and staying that wet, and then having the knife in my pocket where it's warm, is a perfect recipe for rust because I found some rust on the inside of the thumb hole and a little along the spine. It was just light surface rust and literally rubbed off with a q-tip, but it's enough to tell me that 52100 would probably explode in the same environment. There's really no way for me to stop and dry the knife off either, my only option is to put it in my truck and then that defeats the purpose of carrying a knife. I guess I could carry it and then pack a backup knife in my EDC bag, but I think I sweat enough that it's going to be an issue with rain or without. On one hand I wanna throw caution to the wind and let it be what it's gonna be, but on the other hand I'm just not ready to see it all rust.

Did you get a backup? If so, I say carry it and see what happens..

I did. Part of me wants to say screw it and let it go and just do the best I can to keep the rust to a minimum, but the other part of me is more concerned about rust on the pivot and on the lock face. I did grease the pivot while it was apart which I think will go a long way to protect it from rust and I Tuf Glide the rest of the tang and lock face. Even with a backup I'm finding I love this steel so much hate to ruin one of them.

What if you gave up on the patina? And wiped it with a tuf clothe every day.

I may end up going that route eventually. I don't 100% trust Tuf Glide though, I tried that with my M4 Manix 2 and end up with rust spots. I was also thinking I may try a very light coating of Vaseline.

[Liquid Cobra]

Are the liners in the Military stainless steel or titanium? For whatever reason I always throughly they were titanium but I remember reading that the liners on the 52100 Millie are steel. Anyone know for sure?