Spyderco Forums

Can't decide until I actually know what the features will be like.

H1 will have much better wear resistance. Ti is much softer than steel, and usually when knives are made out of it the edge is carbidized to make it harder. But this also means you can't sharpen it unless you have a way of carbidizing it yourself. Un-carbidized titanium can't hold an edge very well ...

So I have carried my para 2 for about three weeks, and even though I have honed and stropped it I feel like it is time for its first sharpening. The edge is still in fairly decent condition, and I won't be changing the angle. I can pick from a DMT Coarse, DMT Fine, and Spyderco's Ultrafine. Which ...

I've made only very slight adjustments to each, and the blade is deploying much better. It doesn't necessarily 'fall' when the lock is released, however, I can flick it closed. I'm wondering what the technique is as far adjusting dual pivot screws. One of them is not flush with the G-10 scales, and ...

Tuff would definitely be much stronger with a compression lock.

Then shouldn't the most durable folder have a compression lock? I understand you care about blade thickness/ hardness but even then I think that with a very thick VG10 blade and a compression lock the Superleaf should win over the ...

My votes are for the PPT and the Superleaf

I missed the caly in super blue, an m4 caly would certainly satisfy my sick hunger...

3rdGenRigger wrote:I have held a Superhawk on Sunday at my local knife store...it felt beefy and I quite liked it, but they want too much for it.

If for the sake of this thread that price is not a factor, do you think anything could truly beat the Superleaf or Superhawk for no nonsene practical toughnes??

Harden the steel lock bar. After obsessively flicking my delica nearly a year it peened the lockbar badly enough that you can see the "peenage" and the lock doesn't properly mate to the tang. It now hs bad vertical bladeplay that makes a clikcing noise. Now this wouldn't bee a problem if my adhd ...

Set the pivot tension you want and put lube on the washers. Now all you have to do flick away! Lol and your knife will be butter smooth after two weeks to break in tops. I am fairly careless with my knives' tips and have broken a few (never a Spydie thankfully :o ) S30V is more prone to chipping or ...

PMBohol wrote:MPro7-LPX. It is supposed to stay wet yet not attract contaminants.

Thanks!! Sounds like it is worth checking out.

Yes I think it should serve more as being the techno's larger counterpart, and less as a chef's knife. And I'm not saying just make a techno XL, it should just be another one of Marcin's beautiful full Ti designs with a 3"-3.5" blade. That would be amazing.

...right, and I think we probably come back to the Tuff, the Techno and the Gayle Bradley. Must be other good candidates, like the Super Leaf?

Hmm this might be controversial but I wouldnt put the techno on that list because of the way the lockface is treated. It makes it so there is no ...

If the blade thickness particularly near the tip is good I would vote the Gayle Bradley.

It's out of production now unfortunately :( , but I feel like the **Superleaf** would win this title. Compression lock, thick but not stupidly thick blade, steel liners. Veerrry beefy. Good sized pivot with a ...

hmmm... Would the grease be usable or not viscous enough?

The sharpmaker is great because it is inexpensive and very easy to use, nearly foolproof. That said, it can't compete with an experienced freehand sharpener or a pricey system like the wicked edge.

The lockface on some of Spyderco's Ti framelocks are also treated in some matter, I'm not sure about the Sage's. You don't have to worry about it one bit, anyone who owns a sage 2 can back me up on that.

I have a persistence that gets very gritty, It's like I can feel the detent ball grinding against the track. When I rinse thoroughly with water, it becomes buttery buttery smooth, but only for 1-2 hours, after the water evaporates and is no longer lubricating the track it is back to being very ...

Blerv wrote:Saber or saber flat aka "partial flat grind"

So there is no such thing as a saber hollow grind! :eek: :p

I would suggest getting a DMT coarse. You can reprofile any steel ever, and you can put extremely aggressive toothy edges on a blade with that stone alone. If it clicks with you you can buy a DMT Fine etc.