Spyderco Forums

Any news about the new military 2 with stop lock. Is this lock similar to the Tatanka lock? I'm thinking the Tatanka will be a bit heavy for me. The new Milli might just be the one.

I'm an old computer guy. Back from the PC DOS days 3f8 is the base memory address for com1. Since this is communication!

DO NOT BUY a paramilitary 2!! It is a gateway drug. I now have several Spyderco knives. Also have an empty bank account, angry wife, and I'm still looking. My wife said a dozen Spydercos is not a 12 step program.

I have both. Sharpmaker wins for me. If you use the Lansky watch your angle. Unlike an edge pro where you easily move the blade in line to the rod support. On the Lansky as well as some others you clamp down on the blade. It is too easy to chase after the blade tip. The further from the rod support ...

I've often wondered how anyone can sleep in a hammock...seems to me it wants to bend you legs the wrong direction. A couple years ago I plunked down the cash for a Temurpedic and won't ever look back. If anything I may one day buy a softer model, but I have never owned or slept in a better sleeping ...

A Military 2 in S110v or ZDP-189. Now that's a plan.

We have installed an RO system. The water quality is dramatically better. Normally the tap water reads well over 200 on a tds meter. Filtered 002 on the tds. Next will be the UV bio light. Not done that yet. Since RO water is so void it is very eager to absorb things. Like a good grade of lose tea ...

Think chisel grind. You can't be more asymmetrical. They cut fine.

I use DMT tapered rods on my SE edges. Works for me.

No.

The SR1B is an elegant knife. Fit and finish is great. Feels good in your hand. The down side for me is weight. It is heavy in the pocket. My edc is a Ti Milli RLL. The SR1 is noticeably heavier.

Don't be sad. Leaks from the NSA listening system have discovered chatter about a new Spyderco Milli. Since it will be ambidextrous a left hand only would be redundant. It's unobtainium blade will be the envy of the industry. Keep your eye on the horizon.

I received my Enuff H1 not long ago. Just hooking a spot to see how this plays out.

I see no reason not to sharpen right to a polished edge, or at least UF stones. If you feel hardness is a problem look to edge angle. Something less acute. The boutique steels can support crazy angles. They my not be good H1. I use 30' 40' micro bevel. It works.

It's not that expensive. For me SE is the way to go. It is now in the boat box and I'm glad to have it there. If your into the sea than you need to be into H1. The aqua keeps company with a Pacfic and the H1 Enuff.

Aqua SE may still be available w and w. I just received one a week ago.

I had put this link in a thread recently. It is a good description of what work hardening is. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Work_hardening . Things like extruding, hammer striking, and rolling mills are major players in the process of work hardening. Plastic deformation is key. Beat it, pull it ...

mattman wrote:Have you used a DLC coated blade to the point where it didn't look good? I'd like to see pics of a worn DLC coating...

http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthre ... ck-coating

I love the look of a dlc blade when they are new. Unlike fine wine they just don't age well.

Wikipedia has a good rendition of work hardening. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Work_hardening . It's more than just using or sharping your knife. Things like taking H1 at 8mm and sending it into a rolling mill squezzing it to 4mm. This kind of plastic deformation is what work hardening is about.