Petition: make all PE Salts in LC200N

[sailhand]

PLAIN EDGE ONLY couldn't agree more!!! It really makes sense to use the "better" steel for each blade type. To keep everyone happy how about a combo edge with a laminate of lc200n and h1 with each steel in the respective area of the blade to maximize performance, I wonder if it could be done! Until then a plain edge dragonfly salt in lc200n would be fantastic. Maybe even with a h1 or titanium marlin spike and a shackle key in the frn handle or the spike, now we're talking. It's really a no brainer I think lc200n for all the plain edge salts. I was lucky enough to score the native never summer in lc200n and it is absolutely brilliant, the blade performs really well in both edge types and has taken over from my dragonfly salt as my main knife. I think it will remain so until we see some more lc200n appear. For the record I have lived on a sailing catamaran in tropical queensland for 14 years and spend countless hours fishing diving swimming etc. No corrosion ever on the dragonfly salt in 5 years and it has never been rinsed in fresh water. To clean it after filleting fish etc it generally gets jammed into the sand in about a foot of water about 10-15 times and then the sand rinsed out in deeper saltwater, works really well at cleaning out all the blood etc, then it's back in the pocket or the dragonfly in my tackle box just gets left to dry in the tackle box sometimes up to a month and likewise has never been cleaned in freshwater, not even once and no rust at all. The native lc200n has received the same treatment and so far no rust at all. I dragged out an old aqua salt the other day and it is still shaving sharp after sitting in a wet locker in a bucket for a couple of years, now to me that is what a knife needs to do in the salt environment that I live in. Everything else in that bucket had disintegrated into a pile of rust, maybe I need to spend some time cleaning out my lockers, not yet though theres still fish to catch. Check out my youtube video https:// m.youtube.com / watch ? v = SA6cDk2Imb0 or google magic carpet 3.5 to see what I do in my spare time.

[ZrowsN1s]

It reminded me a little of Vg-10, 154CM, sharpening ease wise. I think it's safe for me to say H1 will probably sharpen quicker though.

[sal]

Hi Sailhand,

Interesting design. LOA? Did you design it? Did you build it? Glass over foam?

sal

[vivi]

It reminded me a little of Vg-10, 154CM, sharpening ease wise. I think it's safe for me to say H1 will probably sharpen quicker though.

Thanks for the info, I expected it to not have that level of grindability based on what I've read. Sounded like it'd be more comparable to S30V at least. Vg10 sharpens pretty quick :)

[Surfingringo]

PLAIN EDGE ONLY couldn't agree more!!! It really makes sense to use the "better" steel for each blade type. To keep everyone happy how about a combo edge with a laminate of lc200n and h1 with each steel in the respective area of the blade to maximize performance, I wonder if it could be done! Until then a plain edge dragonfly salt in lc200n would be fantastic. Maybe even with a h1 or titanium marlin spike and a shackle key in the frn handle or the spike, now we're talking. It's really a no brainer I think lc200n for all the plain edge salts. I was lucky enough to score the native never summer in lc200n and it is absolutely brilliant, the blade performs really well in both edge types and has taken over from my dragonfly salt as my main knife. I think it will remain so until we see some more lc200n appear. For the record I have lived on a sailing catamaran in tropical queensland for 14 years and spend countless hours fishing diving swimming etc. No corrosion ever on the dragonfly salt in 5 years and it has never been rinsed in fresh water. To clean it after filleting fish etc it generally gets jammed into the sand in about a foot of water about 10-15 times and then the sand rinsed out in deeper saltwater, works really well at cleaning out all the blood etc, then it's back in the pocket or the dragonfly in my tackle box just gets left to dry in the tackle box sometimes up to a month and likewise has never been cleaned in freshwater, not even once and no rust at all. The native lc200n has received the same treatment and so far no rust at all. I dragged out an old aqua salt the other day and it is still shaving sharp after sitting in a wet locker in a bucket for a couple of years, now to me that is what a knife needs to do in the salt environment that I live in. Everything else in that bucket had disintegrated into a pile of rust, maybe I need to spend some time cleaning out my lockers, not yet though theres still fish to catch. Check out my youtube video https:// m.youtube.com / watch ? v = SA6cDk2Imb0 or google magic carpet 3.5 to see what I do in my spare time.

Hey Sailhand, that's a bitchin little "dingcat"! Molded rod holders? That thing will make a great lil inshore fishing machine!

[jalcon]

I would LOVE a PM2 in LC200N.

[crazywednesday]

I would LOVE a PM2 in LC200N.

+1

Justin

[sailhand]

Thanks surfingringo the dinghy is a step up from the adventure island and the hobie outback I had before it. Although I would have an adventure island back in a heartbeat if I could store it conveniently on the boat. It was just too big but it is the most fun you can have with your pants on, it's a great all round fishing machine. The magic carpet is getting a sailing rig put in it too see how it goes, should sail well I hope. The little cat is the culmination of 12 years of design and the seventh prototype. It is great for just about everything we do, from carting 400 litres of water to using a cast net for prawns, or as you guys say shrimp, in the muddy creeks and mangroves. A bucket or two of salt water on the self draining deck and heh presto she's all clean. The wheels were an idea for my partner who has a broken hip from a car accident. I can leave her in the dinghy and wheel it up the beach where she can get out without being knocked over by the surf, also great for small children for the same reason. The hull design is sort of a hybrid between a sailing cat and a power cat hull, and it works quite well and is very efficient. I studied engineering at university/college and used several different hydrostatic computer programs to increase efficiency and refine the design so I think it's about as good as it can get without going to foil assist or full foiling. However it is really a purpose built one man fish killing machine, I needed something to replace the kayaks. It's kind of like the car ads where you can get dressed up and go to the opera after you've been driving around in the mud and dirt all day all in the same car or pick up as you call them, in australia we call them a ute, which is short for utility vehicle. Anyway the only thing I need for my dinghy now is a complete set of lc200n knives especially a good fillet knife. I hope lc200n will give us a great spyderco fillet knife. I don't know about America but fishing has the largest participation of any sport in australia, a huge market worldwide I would imagine, and just begging for the rust free fillet knife that holds a plain edge better than h1. Hope Sal and the boys get a fillet knife out there in lc200n before anyone else. A Phil Wilson collaboration in lc200n sounds like a great idea. It doesn't need to be big, a 5 inch blade would be great, nice and thin and not too flexible. Maybe an lc200n southfork. The "Southfork Salt". Thats definitely got a ring to it.

[sailhand]

Thanks Sal, I just saw your reply. The dinghy is built a little differently to your conventional catamaran. After settling on the most efficient design that could still carry a small payload reasonably well I made a plug for a mold from some cnc cut frames. The mold is just the hull below the bridgedeck. This is then resin infused and is very tough as well as light. There is 3600 grams of biax and double bi axial glass in the hulls, the hammer test almost resulted in a substantial indentation in my forehead, not a feat I wish to repeat. There was no discernable micro fracturing of the glass and in fact that hull has served as my well used tender for 5 years now without a leak. Thats right there's no bungs in the hulls they are sealed to the one piece bridgedeck. The bridgedeck is 15 mm h80 divynicell and the topsides and transom decks are 10 mm. So basically you infuse the two hulls and kind of vacuum them to the bottom of a punt works great and never leaks. It's not the best way to build them but I didn't want to go into production as it is not financially feasible in the Australian market where everyone buys pressed aluminium dinghies. Fiberglass is not very popular here for some reason everybody wants aluminium. A popular dinghy in the same size,around 3.5 metres, 11ft 7 inches roughly, is around 1300 dollars. With the average punter preferring aluminium there is no margin in the aussie market to make it a viable proposition financially. I have other interests in development which are much more profitable than dinghies. A very wise man once said to make a small fortune in boats you start with a large one and work backwards. The obsession with the dinghys was only to fulfill my own needs/curiosity /requirements just to see if it could be done. To plane a large practical boat with two people in it and a 3hp motor.
I have marketed the kits and plans and they are selling well particularly in the states however I think I might stop that soon, I am too busy with other projects at the moment and want to move on. I am off to thailand to meet with a possible manufacturer for the dinghies and depending on pricing I may try a limited production run and market them in australia to begin with. I built 7 full sized prototypes and tested them under identical wind and tide conditions and compiled the results and compared them to the computer modelling to ascertain the most efficient hull shape. You might call it a bit of an obsession, well actually a full blown obsession I suppose. I have several larger models designed using similar principles up to 25 feet. These have full king size beds and generous heads and galleys to meet the requirements of the slightly more mature boaters but i dare say I will never build one as I have a new full blown obsession in progress now and no time for the old ones. Caravans/trailers are a major obsession for the majority of baby boomers in australia and a cheap one starts around 50,000 dollars and they go up from there to around 3/400,000 dollars. Much better margins and i have a great new concept that might do well, we will see, but I think it's a ten times better design than the dinghy. Actually I am not really that interested in going back into business I'd rather just enjoy my retirement however my brain just won't slow down like the rest of me, too many ideas and not enough time. This may not be the right place for this discussion Sal maybe you could pm me if you would like any more info . Thanks for your interest and you can start building one anytime, might give me back a tiny portion of the money I've given you over the years, a very tiny portion, quite miniscule really, in fact probably not even worth a mention. Now an lc200n dragonfly 2 , that would be worth the effort!!

[roger-roger]

Visited a local shop yesterday for a hands on inspection of a Spyderco Sage (no luck), but ended up checking out an Aqua Salt. Very, very nice, especially with its lightweight handle and its overall light weight.

I'd like to see a civilian version of the Aqua Salt (uncoated blade) in PE LC200N.

[crazywednesday]

I think I have missed the boat here, why is there such a general consensus to keep H1 SE? Why not make lc200n SE and PE for salt series?

Justin

[vivi]

I think I have missed the boat here, why is there such a general consensus to keep H1 SE? Why not make lc200n SE and PE for salt series?

Justin

SE H1 is rust proof, tougher than any stainless, and holds an edge better than any steel Spyderco had used as of 2015 I think it was. I'm unaware of any steel besides H1 that can boast those attributes.

[SpyderEdgeForever]

Vivi, regarding H1 steel, would you say a knife with a blade of H1 stainless steel where the blade length is in the 6-7 inch would be sufficiently tough that the blade would not easily shatter or chip if put to very hard survival and combat type use, like if the blade shape was like the famous US M-3 WW2 Trench Knife.

[vivi]

Yes. I've beaten the snot out of my Aqua Salts with no ill effects. It's the worlds most overlooked survival knife. At 4.2 oz, rust proof and tough as nails, its a no brainer. I'd buy a version with a 6-7 inch blade.

[ThePeacent]

Yes. I've beaten the snot out of my Aqua Salts with no ill effects. It's the worlds most overlooked survival knife. At 4.2 oz, rust proof and tough as nails, its a no brainer. I'd buy a version with a 6-7 inch blade.

don't forget about this 6.75" boy, it has to be the second most overlooked survival knife



baton, pry, chop and stab,
this big boy won't give a crap :D

[thewoodpecker]

More linerless G10!!!!!!

^^^THIS!!!^^^ :spyder:

[setldown]

In the US just rename it the "NaCl". :)

[Evil D]

I think I have missed the boat here, why is there such a general consensus to keep H1 SE? Why not make lc200n SE and PE for salt series?

Justin

SE H1 is rust proof, tougher than any stainless, and holds an edge better than any steel Spyderco had used as of 2015 I think it was. I'm unaware of any steel besides H1 that can boast those attributes.

*In serrated edges.

[spambait11]

In the video link below, when Michael Janich visited the SERE school for Navy and Marines in Maine, one of the instructors found H1 to be great at edge retention the more he sharpened the blade. I’m assuming Janich was referring to the Plain Edge Aqua Salt. If so, there seems to be no real advantage to LC200N then. If he’s not talking about the Plain Edge Aqua salt, then all bets are off.

https://youtu.be/JrC--7O79M4

[Surfingringo]

In the video link below, when Michael Janich visited the SERE school for Navy and Marines in Maine, one of the instructors found H1 to be great at edge retention the more he sharpened the blade. I’m assuming Janich was referring to the Plain Edge Aqua Salt. If so, there seems to be no real advantage to LC200N then. If he’s not talking about the Plain Edge Aqua salt, then all bets are off.

https://youtu.be/JrC--7O79M4

Hey spambait, H1 doesn't show any significant improvement or "work hardening" from normal sharpening. (Not that I've ever been able to observe anyway) plain edge H1 will always perform well below Lc200n no matter how many times it is sharpened.