It does matter when your preferred method of SD is slash oriented. Oh yeh, and there's a been a few guys who have done meat testing who have more credibility than just someone voicing an opinion.zhyla wrote:I've stabbed a lot of people with SE blades and never had a snagging problem. I'm joking of course, but "How many people have you stabbed?" is my retort to that oft-repeated claim. I suspect it doesn't matter too much. Somebody ought to mock up some kind of test like gun people do with ballistic gelatin some day, if that hasn't already happened.
The Spyderedge: Misunderstood and UnFairly maligned
- chuck_roxas45
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- SolidState
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Bwahahahahaha....haha...ha....haha...ha...bwahaha.spyderedge wrote:I chose my name because I likes the name. That is all.
I really don't have a use for serrated edges.
I don't get why you seem pissed off either...
"Nothing is so fatal to the progress of the human mind as to suppose that our views of science are ultimate; that there are no mysteries in nature; that our triumphs are complete, and that there are no new worlds to conquer."
Sir Humphry Davy
Sir Humphry Davy
- The Deacon
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Sure.SpyderEdgeForever wrote:Can anyone give an example of a task that only a plain/fine/unserrated edge does well? Would it be game meat butchering?
Are there tasks where a serrated/Spyderedge or combo edge would be a liability/downside?
Peeling an apple, pear, potato, etc.
Spreading butter, cream cheese, peanut butter, etc. on bread.
Skinning an animal.
Opening a plastic bag without creating little bits of plastic which, at best, have to be collected and, at worst, contaminate whatever was inside the bag.
Opening an envelope without creating little bits of paper.
Scraping a gasket.
Cutting anything by pressing it against the blade with your thumb. Can't recall the last time I sliced up a banana any other way, and I almost always use a razor sharp plain edged K05 Utility to do so. Maybe it's a bad habit, but I do it all the time without injury. First, and only, time I ever tried it with my serrated K05, the result was puncture wounds and a blood stained banana.
As a substitute for a plane, smoothing down a piece of wood.
Competition Cutting, is there a single competitor on the circuit who uses a serrated blade?
That said, if I want to slice a bagel, or fresh baked bread, I will always reach for a serrated blade, and I keep one in my car for emergency use as a seat belt cutter.
Paul
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
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WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
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WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
- araneae
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- Location: A lil more south of the Erie shore, Ohio
The answer is you should just carry both. Or keep an SE Ladybug on your keychain. SE is great for opening those confounded clamshell packages that everything is sealed in these days.
So many knives, so few pockets... :)
-Nick
Last in: N5 Magnacut
The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal
-Nick
Last in: N5 Magnacut
The "Spirit" of the design does not come through unless used. -Sal
It surprised me to no end but I had heard that the ZDP-189 serrated blades had some performance problems. When I heard it I was deeply disappointed because ZDP-189 is one of my favorite knife steels. I'm hearing over and over that H-1 makes about the best Spyderedged blades. Although I've never had a problem with VG-10 or ATS-55 Spyderedged blades and I've used both blade steels in serrated edges for many mean cutting jobs too.tr4022 wrote:Just picked up a delica zdp 189 with se. this should be interesting.
Tod
Another steel I've had excellent luck with in Spyderedged blades has been the older 440V ( S60V). My 440V Native has truly performed perfectly when doing extremely rough and demanding cutting jobs. I didn't have as good of luck with S30V however because I've had a couple of the spike part of the serrations chip on me. I would be curious as to how S90V and XHP would perform with Spyderedges. I would love an XHP SE Military. I have a plain edged Mili with XHP and I love it dearly.
Long Live the SPYDEREDGE Spyderco Hawkbills RULE!!
If you go with what Sal has said H1 SE has outperformed their other steels as of testing with the Jumpmaster as the CATRA king.
I'm sure there is a blade material with teeth that can outperform H1 at the expense of corrosion resistance. Pragmatically finding one in the price range solar system (for the user) is going to be tough. I can buy an Atlantic Salt for about $60 and that's a folding chainsaw. Throw a regrind on it for $30 and the edge geometry pushes cutting performance to the moon.
I'm sure there is a blade material with teeth that can outperform H1 at the expense of corrosion resistance. Pragmatically finding one in the price range solar system (for the user) is going to be tough. I can buy an Atlantic Salt for about $60 and that's a folding chainsaw. Throw a regrind on it for $30 and the edge geometry pushes cutting performance to the moon.
I have nothing against fully serrated edges, but for most of the things I cut plain edge is more practical. I pretty much have all the bases covered with a variety of plain edges in different blade shapes. There is no debating the raw cutting power of SE, my assist is one sharp mother and that's what I would grab to cut a seat belt.
I'll use this opportunity to voice my desire for a :) *>>>combo edge salt<<<* :) .
I want to try some teeth in H1 but I cant justify the purchase or carry of a separate knife just for serrations, I simply would not use it enough. But some teeth at the back of a plain edge, I would be more inclined to carry and experiment with cutting and sharpening the serrations, whilst still being able to go about my chores which require plain edge.
I'll use this opportunity to voice my desire for a :) *>>>combo edge salt<<<* :) .
I want to try some teeth in H1 but I cant justify the purchase or carry of a separate knife just for serrations, I simply would not use it enough. But some teeth at the back of a plain edge, I would be more inclined to carry and experiment with cutting and sharpening the serrations, whilst still being able to go about my chores which require plain edge.
I see, said the blind man.
- spyderedge
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The H-1 Spyderedged knives I use I really like. Here lately my H-1 SE Spyderhawk has been seeing a lot of duty here of late. I have 2 Tasmans and I like both of them but they just don't have the rigidity of the Harpy. But the Spyderhawk has a lot of cutting power with that longer blade so I've been electing to use it here lately. Especially with all the cardboard I've had to cut through.Blerv wrote:If you go with what Sal has said H1 SE has outperformed their other steels as of testing with the Jumpmaster as the CATRA king.
I'm sure there is a blade material with teeth that can outperform H1 at the expense of corrosion resistance. Pragmatically finding one in the price range solar system (for the user) is going to be tough. I can buy an Atlantic Salt for about $60 and that's a folding chainsaw. Throw a regrind on it for $30 and the edge geometry pushes cutting performance to the moon.
I've had good luck with the H-1 blades I've used here lately but I've also had excellent luck with my VG-10 and ATS-55 fully serrated Spyders. I've never had either one of those blade steels ever let me down during hard use. One other great blade steel for Spyderedged blades has been 440V. My 440V (S60V) Native has been a great blade for extreme roughhouse work. I didn't think it possible at first but I've put 440V through some of the toughest cutting jobs imaginable and it has never failed on me. The Native model for a shorter blade has just been awesome.
Long Live the SPYDEREDGE Spyderco Hawkbills RULE!!
A plain edge is far more versatile in precision work like carving wood, shaving paint or glue off hard surfaces such as glass, trimming tape, etc. Serrated is great for vegetation, cordage, and starting cuts in plastic with the teeth, but it cannot offer the same control in fine work that a plain edge provides me.SpyderEdgeForever wrote:Can anyone give an example of a task that only a plain/fine/unserrated edge does well? Would it be game meat butchering?
Are there tasks where a serrated/Spyderedge or combo edge would be a liability/downside?
For sure both edge types have their respective places>> I couldn't do without a plain edge of some sort to get me through the day. And in no way is this thread meant to be an "ANTI PLAIN EDGE" campaign>> no not at all. I'm just saying that a lot of people are overlooking the great potential that Spyderedged blades have. Like it was said earlier that a lot of people shy away from serrated edges because they don't think that they can sharpen them when the time comes.Bill1170 wrote:A plain edge is far more versatile in precision work like carving wood, shaving paint or glue off hard surfaces such as glass, trimming tape, etc. Serrated is great for vegetation, cordage, and starting cuts in plastic with the teeth, but it cannot offer the same control in fine work that a plain edge provides me.
Well yours truly didn't start out with that skill. I had to practice a lot before I got good at it. But I started putting together a nice selection of Spyderco's great sharpening tools and I soon picked up on a lot of tricks to doing it right and it wasn't really that hard at all to figure out for myself. And I'm not saying that the 701 Profile is the only tool to get it done with I"m just saying that it works best for me.
There are so many cutting jobs that really only plain edges are the correct choice for. I'm just saying why not have the best of both worlds with both edge types. When I got my first Serrated Spyder back in 1995 I had never previously had a knife with a premium serrated edge on it until then.
When I first started working with the Mariner SE I was blown away at how great it worked on many cutting chores. Like I've said before I mainly use a full sized plain edge folder ( C-60 Ayoob) along with a companion blade ( usually a serrated Harpy) and the 2 of them really make work a lot easier. My friend "SPYDUTCH" has always told me that he only uses serrated edges. There are just too many jobs I have that I need a plain edge for myself but if it works for him then more power to him. I wish that Spyderco would have more of a selection of different types of Spyderedges. Because the ones on my older full SE CAtcherman are not like any I have ever had before and they work great. But that's another thread for a another time.
Long Live the SPYDEREDGE Spyderco Hawkbills RULE!!
I started out only looking at PE but found SE from Spyderco to be invaluble. I go against the common grain but find CE's to be very effective for my typical uses and don't think I could live without my CE Millie. I am lucky enough to have a number of blades to choose from and will either carry a PE and a SE or some combination of PE and CE.
Spyderco serrations are the best out there, I would hope for more full and partial serrations on blades but understand they don't sell as well. I also would love to try them in CPM D2, CPM S90V and CPM M4.
Spyderco serrations are the best out there, I would hope for more full and partial serrations on blades but understand they don't sell as well. I also would love to try them in CPM D2, CPM S90V and CPM M4.
IMHO SE blade is special tool. Like dodo. I love Dodo, but I am aware of limitations. Not the best tool to cut your sandwich or peel the apple. I carried SE delica for about a month, cut some cardboard, not much, but the blade got dull. I spent hours with sharpmaker to sharpen it until it was able to push cut a paper with every serration. May be once or twice a year, when I became irritated with vines on my trees I am wishing that I have Tasman SE. Of cause if you cut a lot of fibrous materials it would be better to have SE, but usually I do not in need to do so. All my EDC are PE and this work for me just fine.
"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf"
My top choices Natives5, Calys, C83 Persian
My top choices Natives5, Calys, C83 Persian
First of all Brother I completely agree with you on the Spyderedged DODO model. The Dodo is a great blade in either SE or PE but there is something really wicked about a serrated DODO. The Delica is a nice piece in Spyderedge but if I had serious work to do with it I far prefer the SE Endura or SE Golden CO USA made Native model. The Endura because of the extra blade size and the USA made Native because of it's ruggedness.bh49 wrote:IMHO SE blade is special tool. Like dodo. I love Dodo, but I am aware of limitations. Not the best tool to cut your sandwich or peel the apple. I carried SE delica for about a month, cut some cardboard, not much, but the blade got dull. I spent hours with sharpmaker to sharpen it until it was able to push cut a paper with every serration. May be once or twice a year, when I became irritated with vines on my trees I am wishing that I have Tasman SE. Of cause if you cut a lot of fibrous materials it would be better to have SE, but usually I do not in need to do so. All my EDC are PE and this work for me just fine.
I know I'm like a 33 rpm LP record with a skip in it but I can't say enough about how good those 701 Profiles are for sharpening Spyderedges. You have to do each scallop and spike set individually which takes time but if you have patience and a good eye you can get them factory sharp with the 701 Profiles. I sent Michael Cook a set of them and it completely changed his views on Spyderedged blades. It does take a bit of time but the results are superb if you get the angle right. Personally I prefer the Harpy over the Tasman because it's just a bit more ridgid than the TASMAN. But you can't go wrong with either one of those great SE Hawkbills. I'm still experimenting with my Duckfoot and Goldenstone sharpeners and I haven't mastered the techniques for doing serrations with those units.
Some of the most awesome Spyderco blades in SE are The Dodo, Massad Ayoob, Native, Military, C-54 Calypso, Endura, Police and all of the Hawkbills in SE.
Long Live the SPYDEREDGE Spyderco Hawkbills RULE!!
JD, many of us love the spyderedge, I have a Spyderhawk in my pocket now,
along with a plain edge. Certain tasks work better for each. I do find that I
used the serrated edge quite a bit though and don't feel right, unless I have
one on me.
I am always cutting small limbs, weeds etc from the bottom of fence, close to
a sidewalk etc or the small little branches that start growing from the side of
a tree. You can use a sawing action to cut through most anything.
Seriously, I used a Spyderedge to replace a weed eater in many cases. I can
clear those areas that a mower can't get to, rather quickly with a Spyderedge
Endura. I was mowing hay this fall and would get hay jammed in the baler
and would use the SE to saw thru the hay better than anything that I have
ever used. and I have tried countless tools to try to do this.
Around the farm it's the edge I need.
along with a plain edge. Certain tasks work better for each. I do find that I
used the serrated edge quite a bit though and don't feel right, unless I have
one on me.
I am always cutting small limbs, weeds etc from the bottom of fence, close to
a sidewalk etc or the small little branches that start growing from the side of
a tree. You can use a sawing action to cut through most anything.
Seriously, I used a Spyderedge to replace a weed eater in many cases. I can
clear those areas that a mower can't get to, rather quickly with a Spyderedge
Endura. I was mowing hay this fall and would get hay jammed in the baler
and would use the SE to saw thru the hay better than anything that I have
ever used. and I have tried countless tools to try to do this.
Around the farm it's the edge I need.
- The Mastiff
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My first and second Enduras were Serrated. I liked the edge and got good use out of it. I did have another knife around for plain edge work. Mostly a thin, carbon steel, lockback knife from Ireland ( imperial). It was super cheap, extremely thin bladed and I kept it sharp enough to dry shave,
The Spyderedge was great as long as it was very sharp. It did last longer, and stood up better than it's main competitor in sharpness. I never could get it anywhere near factory sharp. I tried numerous systems including the one put out by Spyderco itself.
I could never get the hang of it. Get me a Norton SIC India, or a DMT and I could sharpen anything. I even could use files, bricks( not so well), and most other products but not anything was helping me with serrations. They came out ugly, and not as sharp.
That decided it. Plain edge beginning, and ending.
Joe
The Spyderedge was great as long as it was very sharp. It did last longer, and stood up better than it's main competitor in sharpness. I never could get it anywhere near factory sharp. I tried numerous systems including the one put out by Spyderco itself.
I could never get the hang of it. Get me a Norton SIC India, or a DMT and I could sharpen anything. I even could use files, bricks( not so well), and most other products but not anything was helping me with serrations. They came out ugly, and not as sharp.
That decided it. Plain edge beginning, and ending.
Joe
"A Mastiff is to a dog what a Lion is to a housecat. He stands alone and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race" Cynographia Britannic 1800
"Unless you're the lead dog the view is pretty much gonna stay the same!"
"Unless you're the lead dog the view is pretty much gonna stay the same!"