St. Nick’s Exclusive red and black Goddard!

[HolySteel]

Nice disassembly pic! Haven't tried it yet with mine, but something tells me the reduction in hardware doesn't lend itself to a reduction in swear words uttered during reassembly..

The only thing that could have made it worse was if I had stabbed myself.

So your Goddard has been reassembled and you didn't stab yourself in the process? Sounds like a great success to me hahah! And you got a cool disassembly pic for the forum out of the ordeal .. your experimentation is greatly appreciated sir, thank you for your efforts!

It was fun, actually, but as you guessed, when I realized it was a 1-piece handle there was swearing.

Here is my only complaint. It's minor and doesn't affect usability, but surprised me as I've never seen this in a Spyderco blade - I bought two, and both were the same:

[Bolster]

The only thing that could have made it worse was if I had stabbed myself.

Holy: I'm vaguely contemplating disassembly of the Goddard, for purposes of cutting some jimping into the FRN (but not the lockbar) for the thumb. Do you have any advice on how to go about disassembly/reassembly, having been through it? Thanks!

[HolySteel]

The only thing that could have made it worse was if I had stabbed myself.

Holy: I'm vaguely contemplating disassembly of the Goddard, for purposes of cutting some jimping into the FRN (but not the lockbar) for the thumb. Do you have any advice on how to go about disassembly/reassembly, having been through it? Thanks!

I will put something together and post here this afternoon. I have some recommendations, but my memory is not great so I need to write down some notes, let it simmer, then re-visit.

[Bolster]

I will put something together and post here this afternoon. I have some recommendations, but my memory is not great so I need to write down some notes, let it simmer, then re-visit.

Thanks man!

[JSumm]

Here is my only complaint. It's minor and doesn't affect usability, but surprised me as I've never seen this in a Spyderco blade - I bought two, and both were the same:

My Caly 3.5 came that way almost a zero edge grind near the tip. I fixed it, but yeah it happens.

[riclaw]

Is the lightweight Stretch XL as solid as the Goddard? Asking about handle flex and liners.

I picked mine up on Monday and carried it while I push-mowed the lawn last night. Overall, very impressed. The weight is great. I like the clip placement, too. It gives me plenty of purchase when I pull the the Goddard from pocket. Also, love the color. Also also, love the Deadpool sticker from St Nicks.

No. The Goddard feels significantly more sturdy to me. That's not to say that the S2XL LW is insufficiently sturdy.. it's just much easier to force the handle to flex than with the Goddard. I really like the Goddard's one-piece handle construction; it feels a lot more solid than I would have guessed.. and the hardware reduction is an added benefit to simplistic folks such as myself..

Thanks. I'll probably get a Stretch XL but not going to rush it

I like the barrel-style pocket clip. I wouldn't want it on everything, but on a larger user it has its place.

[z1r]

Is the lightweight Stretch XL as solid as the Goddard? Asking about handle flex and liners.

I picked mine up on Monday and carried it while I push-mowed the lawn last night. Overall, very impressed. The weight is great. I like the clip placement, too. It gives me plenty of purchase when I pull the the Goddard from pocket. Also, love the color. Also also, love the Deadpool sticker from St Nicks.

No. The Goddard feels significantly more sturdy to me. That's not to say that the S2XL LW is insufficiently sturdy.. it's just much easier to force the handle to flex than with the Goddard. I really like the Goddard's one-piece handle construction; it feels a lot more solid than I would have guessed.. and the hardware reduction is an added benefit to simplistic folks such as myself..

Thanks. I'll probably get a Stretch XL but not going to rush it

I like the barrel-style pocket clip. I wouldn't want it on everything, but on a larger user it has its place.

I don't actually notice more flex with the XL, but the handle being smaller does give the impression that it is less sturdy. That said, I've not had any complaints with mine. Like it enough to get three. I like the Goddard equally well, it is just different. Wish I could quantify it better but it just feels "right". And 100% agree with the old style clip attachment, not generally a fan, but it just seems "right" on this knife, even came installed in the correct orientation!

[Ramonade]

It was fun, actually, but as you guessed, when I realized it was a 1-piece handle there was swearing.

Here is my only complaint. It's minor and doesn't affect usability, but surprised me as I've never seen this in a Spyderco blade - I bought two, and both were the same:

Same here, well, the one I have was pretty bad but the other one was not that uneven heel to tip and side to side. As long as the primary bevels are symmetrical I'm all good. Here's my solution for this afternoon :



I don't know if it can be seen but it's pretty homogenous now. It took more than an hour because I was watching a show at the same time, and it Might have distracted me

[HolySteel]

Holy: I'm vaguely contemplating disassembly of the Goddard, for purposes of cutting some jimping into the FRN (but not the lockbar) for the thumb. Do you have any advice on how to go about disassembly/reassembly, having been through it? Thanks!

I would love to hear Ramonade's advice as well, as I was unprepared for what I found, so did not have a good plan.

I can only suggest how to get the innards out, as mine had to be dumped when I realized it was a one-piece handle. I had no idea what components were going to fall out, so I had no plan.

• Put tape over the blade edge for protection and work over a towel in case something falls out unexpectedly.
• After removing the pivot and frame screws, push the pins out (I assume you can do this at this point - I can't remember exactly what I did).
• Carefully push the front sides of the frame apart just enough to where the blade (w/washers stuck to it) can be pulled out.
• It could be that the blade and lockbar will come out together.
• Pull the spring out - flatter end is in the hole, other end pointing up.
• After cleaning, stick the bronze washers to the knife with oil.
• Stick the spring back in the hole in the frame.
• Spread the frame sides apart at the front and carefully slip the blade in, lining up the blade holes with the pivot pin holes.
• Press in the pivot pin (it has a flat side). Screw the pivot screw in loosely.
  At this point someone HAS to have a better idea than what I'm going to suggest!
• Carefully connect the lockbar to the blade and hold tightly at the connection point with thumb and forefinger.
• This is going to be difficult to do - press down on the lockbar until it is in the right position and immediately press the frame pin in. You might have to try several times.
• Close the knife before screwing in the frame screw.

If I can remember anything I did differently from the above, I'll come back and revise. I will not be offended if I'm told I made something harder than it should have been!

[Bolster]

^ Thank you much!

[vivi]

As someone that has taken apart Pacific Salt 1's over 30 times, I've been watching this discussion with great amusement!

Since they're basically the same save for the washers, here's how I do my Pacifics:

* Remove pivot screw and lock bar screw from the back side.
* Grip handle and depress lock release to remove tension from blade, and push out pivot screw show side half.
* While still holding the lock release, remove blade (and washers, in this case).
* Let go of handle, push out lock bar screw show side half.
* Remove lock bar and spring.
* Remove clip if needed.

To re-assemble:

* Attach clip if needed.
* Insert lock spring (long end into handle)
* Place lock bar in handle with front end pointing down towards the handle guard.
* Insert both sides of the lock bar screw and tighten 75%.
* Grip handle, put enough tension on lock bar to cover up pivot hole.
* Insert show side pivot screw half as far as the lock bar allows.
* While fully depressing lock release, insert blade (with washers), line up with pivot screw half, then push pivot screw as far as it can go.
* Release the lock, apply loctite if needed, insert the other half of the pivot screw and tighten 75%.
* Tighten lock bar screw all the way.
* Tighten pivot to desired level.

[Bolster]

...here's how I do my Pacifics:...

^ Also thanks much!!

[Wartstein]

...

...
[*]This is going to be difficult to do - press down on the lockbar until it is in the right position and immediately press the frame pin in. You might have to try several times.
[....

If I understand you rightly (not sure), this step sounds like what I personally actually always do when reaassembling my typical (screwed, two piece handled) Seki lockbacks.

I've ahways been using the "lockbar last" method (no idea if it is the best way, back when I dis- / re- assembled my first lockbacks I had no internet and no one to show me, and this is just what I came up with myself).
This step is the only a bit tricky one indeed, but one gets better with practice. I still always need more than one try to get the lockbar pin in though.

[HolySteel]

...

...
[*]This is going to be difficult to do - press down on the lockbar until it is in the right position and immediately press the frame pin in. You might have to try several times.
[....

If I understand you rightly (not sure), this step sounds like what I personally actually always do when reaassembling my typical (screwed, two piece handled) Seki lockbacks.

I've ahways been using the "lockbar last" method (no idea if it is the best way, back when I dis- / re- assembled my first lockbacks I had no internet and no one to show me, and this is just what I came up with myself).
This step is the only a bit tricky one indeed, but one gets better with practice. I still always need more than one try to get the lockbar pin in though.

Sounds like we are having a similar experience. My choice of that method was a wild guess, as I could not find a video showing how to reassemble such a knife design.

[Bemo]

I follow generally the procedure Vivi elucidates along with the use of a ziptie. Very helpful when trying to get the washers all lined up and inserting the blade.

[DSH007]

Nice disassembly pic! Haven't tried it yet with mine, but something tells me the reduction in hardware doesn't lend itself to a reduction in swear words uttered during reassembly..

The only thing that could have made it worse was if I had stabbed myself.

So your Goddard has been reassembled and you didn't stab yourself in the process? Sounds like a great success to me hahah! And you got a cool disassembly pic for the forum out of the ordeal .. your experimentation is greatly appreciated sir, thank you for your efforts!

It was fun, actually, but as you guessed, when I realized it was a 1-piece handle there was swearing.

Here is my only complaint. It's minor and doesn't affect usability, but surprised me as I've never seen this in a Spyderco blade - I bought two, and both were the same:

These lop-sided edge bevels seem to be Seki's MO lately. My Goddard is maybe a little bit less shallow at the tip on the one side, but looks much closer to yours than perfect. My knife still arrived very sharp, so I guess I can't complain too much..

[HolySteel]

As someone that has taken apart Pacific Salt 1's over 30 times, I've been watching this discussion with great amusement!

Since they're basically the same save for the washers, here's how I do my Pacifics:

* Remove pivot screw and lock bar screw from the back side.
* Grip handle and depress lock release to remove tension from blade, and push out pivot screw show side half.
* While still holding the lock release, remove blade (and washers, in this case).
* Let go of handle, push out lock bar screw show side half.
* Remove lock bar and spring.
* Remove clip if needed.

To re-assemble:

* Attach clip if needed.
* Insert lock spring (long end into handle)
* Place lock bar in handle with front end pointing down towards the handle guard.
* Insert both sides of the lock bar screw and tighten 75%.
* Grip handle, put enough tension on lock bar to cover up pivot hole.
* Insert show side pivot screw half as far as the lock bar allows.
* While fully depressing lock release, insert blade (with washers), line up with pivot screw half, then push pivot screw as far as it can go.
* Release the lock, apply loctite if needed, insert the other half of the pivot screw and tighten 75%.
* Tighten lock bar screw all the way.
* Tighten pivot to desired level.

Just 1 for me. It will probably be the last, but if I try it again I'll use your method. I hesitated to post anything about my experience, as I was certain there were experts here, but no one chimed in until now. I guess they were munching popcorn and grinning.

[Wartstein]

Well, thanks to Robin / Ramonade who helped me out with ordering (and even forwarded the one with the better grind of the two he ordered to me!!) I have one too now... and love it so far!!

Carried it for a day now, and I think the blade shows that I used and tested it quite a bit already in that short period of time

[aicolainen]

Well, thanks to Robin / Ramonade who helped me out with ordering (and even forwarded the one with the better grind of the two he ordered to me!!) I have one too now... and love it so far!!

Carried it for a day now, and I think the blade shows that I used and tested it quite a bit already in that short period of time

that’s probably the most beautiful one day old Goddard I’ve ever seen!

[Wartstein]

......

that’s probably the most beautiful one day old Goddard I’ve ever seen!

Thanks!

I like how the coating shows use, "history" and "life" of the knife pretty well and pretty soon!

Still I am considering to remove the coating: Makes no practical sense for me (except perhaps at the pivot area where I´d keep it anyway) - the blade won´t ever corrode in a way that could have practical implications in my lifetime even without coating, and I like the way tool steels "patina"