Great job and great photos as well, RoBo! Which two colors? Is there a link to the dying procedure?RoBoTech wrote:Thank you! Had to go through two colors to get the OD. And these are well done, simmered about an hour total.
Show off your latest purchase
K-390 on hand: Mule Team 17, Police 4 G-10, Endela (burlap micarta), Endela backup, Endura (canvas micarta), Straight Stretch (now blade-swapped with G-10 Stretch), Delica Wharncliffe, Dragonfly Wharncliffe, & Dragonfly Wharncliffe shorty mod
Note to self: Less is more.
Note to self: Less is more.
Not really a procedure. It seems like every time I do this, it's different.DougC-3 wrote:Great job and great photos as well, RoBo! Which two colors? Is there a link to the dying procedure?
Take this Spyderco Gray G-10. On the Caly 3.5 Sprint, I used the Orange Rit (POWDER) and it came out very similar to this picture. Didn't get a pic of my Caly, but this one inspired me to do it. This was about 5 minutes in the hot dye. Seems like it absorbed the dye quickly.

With the Gray G-10 from the Cru-Wear Sprint, it didn't work so well. It took 30 minutes simmering the orange dye, and still didn't get red. It was close to an orange, but the inner scales were not. So I decided to try for Green, so then simmered it for ANOTHER 30 minutes in Denim Blue. Right about 30 minutes, it finally started to take the dye, so be careful.
Take note that it looks DARKER with wet dye on it, than after washing/rinsing, so go a bit darker than you think.
Do NOT use the Navy Blue dye, as it will get almost black. Use powdered dye, not liquid. Stir it a lot while working the dye. Use a stainless pan as it will stain a non stick, as well as any towels or counter tops, paper towels advised. Also, I advise you to use a scrub brush when you wash/rinse, to remove any tiny dye spots, and to get down into the G-10 texture.
Put about 24 oz of water on to simmer, then stir in the dye (again, use a stainless spoon or tongs). Simmer it (not boil) and watch to make sure it doesn't get too dark. You never know, the batch of Gray G-10 on your Spyderco may be like the Caly 3. It's a risk, so watch it.
Keep the scales turned every few minutes so one side doesn't lay against the hot pan bottom very long. When it gets orange, take out and wash. Then do the same with the Denim Blue dye.
Good luck.
One of the worst cuts I ever got was from a butter knife while trying to split frozen hotdogs. It slipped and jammed into the tip of my middle finger. It was more like a bad rip than a cut. Skin is really fragile stuff.MadRookie wrote:That is one very dangerous tool to open oysters with - good to know no slips & all intact!
Saw a cook separating frozen burger patties with a bread knife - slipped & the knife went clean through the palm of his hand & stuck out the back by about 2 inches.
They had to remove it in trauma.
Looks like those big slips happens mostly where "quality beverages" are absent.....
:)
~David
- xceptnl
- Member
- Posts: 9000
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 6:48 pm
- Location: Tobacco Country, Virginia
- Contact:
That RED Caly really makes my want to modify mine. Did the dye bond to any other parts?RoBoTech wrote:Not really a procedure. It seems like every time I do this, it's different.
Take this Spyderco Gray G-10. On the Caly 3.5 Sprint, I used the Orange Rit (POWDER) and it came out very similar to this picture. Didn't get a pic of my Caly, but this one inspired me to do it. This was about 5 minutes in the hot dye. Seems like it absorbed the dye quickly.
*Landon*sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
I took mine apart, but I have dyed 20-30 in the past 4-5 years, and several were not dis-assembled. Had NO stains on the Stainless parts. I haven't dyed a carbon steeled knife, though. And wasn't sure how the Super Blue would handle the dye and heat. At a simmer, that is about 160 F.xceptnl wrote:That RED Caly really makes my want to modify mine. Did the dye bond to any other parts?
As I mentioned above, apparently some Gray G-10 won't take the dye well. So do at your own risk. If it is a used knife, be sure to scrub it good, and don't handle what you are going to dye with bare hands after scrubbing. Dirt and oil won't dye, it will splotch.
IF your gray g-10 won't take the orange well, have some Red on hand to double dye. That will probably work. Don't be afraid to allow it to cook (it is cooking, but the G-10 will not get soft or shred), but be sure to check often to see how dark it is.
Good luck.
OUCH! And the finger tips are the worst place to get cut. A lot of nerve endings there, and you have to use them for everything.Evil D wrote:One of the worst cuts I ever got was from a butter knife while trying to split frozen hotdogs. It slipped and jammed into the tip of my middle finger. It was more like a bad rip than a cut. Skin is really fragile stuff.
Thanks RoBoTech! I really appreciate the detailed description and cautionary hints. Still, at this point I'm a little afraid to risk my one and only spare cru millie :eek: My used one might have too much skin oil in the G-10, and strangely enough I've gotten sort of attached to its gray scales... but I'd love to have some OD too. I might try to do it in stages, and if I wound up with something between foliage green and OD, I might stop at that point.RoBoTech wrote:Not really a procedure. It seems like every time I do this, it's different.
Take this Spyderco Gray G-10. On the Caly 3.5 Sprint, I used the Orange Rit (POWDER) and it came out very similar to this picture. Didn't get a pic of my Caly, but this one inspired me to do it. This was about 5 minutes in the hot dye. Seems like it absorbed the dye quickly.
With the Gray G-10 from the Cru-Wear Sprint, it didn't work so well. It took 30 minutes simmering the orange dye, and still didn't get red. It was close to an orange, but the inner scales were not. So I decided to try for Green, so then simmered it for ANOTHER 30 minutes in Denim Blue. Right about 30 minutes, it finally started to take the dye, so be careful.
Take note that it looks DARKER with wet dye on it, than after washing/rinsing, so go a bit darker than you think.
Do NOT use the Navy Blue dye, as it will get almost black. Use powdered dye, not liquid. Stir it a lot while working the dye. Use a stainless pan as it will stain a non stick, as well as any towels or counter tops, paper towels advised. Also, I advise you to use a scrub brush when you wash/rinse, to remove any tiny dye spots, and to get down into the G-10 texture.
Put about 24 oz of water on to simmer, then stir in the dye (again, use a stainless spoon or tongs). Simmer it (not boil) and watch to make sure it doesn't get too dark. You never know, the batch of Gray G-10 on your Spyderco may be like the Caly 3. It's a risk, so watch it.
Keep the scales turned every few minutes so one side doesn't lay against the hot pan bottom very long. When it gets orange, take out and wash. Then do the same with the Denim Blue dye.
Good luck.
K-390 on hand: Mule Team 17, Police 4 G-10, Endela (burlap micarta), Endela backup, Endura (canvas micarta), Straight Stretch (now blade-swapped with G-10 Stretch), Delica Wharncliffe, Dragonfly Wharncliffe, & Dragonfly Wharncliffe shorty mod
Note to self: Less is more.
Note to self: Less is more.
- vaisforlovers
- Member
- Posts: 445
- Joined: Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:10 pm
- Location: Nebraska
Good day everyone. I picked this up recently and I'm glad I did. It was advertised as "gently used" and when it showed up I found it to have an aftermarket polished blade and a very rounded tip. It was also the dullest knife I've ever handled. Otherwise the handle was indeed gently used but not abused. After a good half hour on the Sharpmaker, it is back to being usable and the tip is again pointy, but not perfect by any means.
The best part about purchasing this gently used Kopa is I've actually carried and used it. I'm not sure I'd carry a NIB knife this pretty, but since someone already broke it in for me it has seen good pocket time.
Still working on my photo skills.




The best part about purchasing this gently used Kopa is I've actually carried and used it. I'm not sure I'd carry a NIB knife this pretty, but since someone already broke it in for me it has seen good pocket time.
Still working on my photo skills.




"The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself" John Stewart Mill
Nice job, va. I never noticed before that they're a bit reminiscent of a small Caly.
K-390 on hand: Mule Team 17, Police 4 G-10, Endela (burlap micarta), Endela backup, Endura (canvas micarta), Straight Stretch (now blade-swapped with G-10 Stretch), Delica Wharncliffe, Dragonfly Wharncliffe, & Dragonfly Wharncliffe shorty mod
Note to self: Less is more.
Note to self: Less is more.
- vaisforlovers
- Member
- Posts: 445
- Joined: Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:10 pm
- Location: Nebraska
DougC-3, thanks, I just noticed the Caly resemblance too. I guess that explains why I like it so much!DougC-3 wrote:Nice job, va. I never noticed before that they're a bit reminiscent of a small Caly.
"The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made and kept so by the exertions of better men than himself" John Stewart Mill
- xceptnl
- Member
- Posts: 9000
- Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2011 6:48 pm
- Location: Tobacco Country, Virginia
- Contact:
Nice grab and I am glad to see someone else loves a previously carried knife. Now go get more versions. They can be addictive all by themselvesvaisforlovers wrote:Good day everyone. I picked this up recently and I'm glad I did. It was advertised as "gently used" and when it showed up I found it to have an aftermarket polished blade and a very rounded tip. It was also the dullest knife I've ever handled. Otherwise the handle was indeed gently used but not abused. After a good half hour on the Sharpmaker, it is back to being usable and the tip is again pointy, but not perfect by any means.
The best part about purchasing this gently used Kopa is I've actually carried and used it. I'm not sure I'd carry a NIB knife this pretty, but since someone already broke it in for me it has seen good pocket time.
Still working on my photo skills.
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They really are a small Caly 3 or a more roomy Dragonfly.DougC-3 wrote:Nice job, va. I never noticed before that they're a bit reminiscent of a small Caly.
*Landon*sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
I have the Kiwi with that scale theme. My Sunday Go To Meeting knife.vaisforlovers wrote:Good day everyone. I picked this up recently and I'm glad I did. It was advertised as "gently used" and when it showed up I found it to have an aftermarket polished blade and a very rounded tip. It was also the dullest knife I've ever handled. Otherwise the handle was indeed gently used but not abused. After a good half hour on the Sharpmaker, it is back to being usable and the tip is again pointy, but not perfect by any means.
The best part about purchasing this gently used Kopa is I've actually carried and used it. I'm not sure I'd carry a NIB knife this pretty, but since someone already broke it in for me it has seen good pocket time.


Pacific Salt arrived today -- my first H-1 steel, first full Spyderedge, and first yellow FRN :D Love the full 14mm hole and am tempted to get the black/black version :cool:




K-390 on hand: Mule Team 17, Police 4 G-10, Endela (burlap micarta), Endela backup, Endura (canvas micarta), Straight Stretch (now blade-swapped with G-10 Stretch), Delica Wharncliffe, Dragonfly Wharncliffe, & Dragonfly Wharncliffe shorty mod
Note to self: Less is more.
Note to self: Less is more.
Got all these today
Manix 2 Sprint CTS-XHP :: Manix 2 FFG DLC S30V :: Para-Military 2 S30V

Got these three last week
Mainx 2 XL DLC S30V

Native lightweight S30V

Yojimbo 2

Manix 2 Sprint CTS-XHP :: Manix 2 FFG DLC S30V :: Para-Military 2 S30V

Got these three last week
Mainx 2 XL DLC S30V

Native lightweight S30V

Yojimbo 2

Bradley Folder 2 CPM M4
Military CTS XHP - CPM Cru-wear
Para Military 2 CTS XHP - CTS 204P
Manix 2 CTS XHP - CPM Cru-wear - CPM M4
Military CTS XHP - CPM Cru-wear
Para Military 2 CTS XHP - CTS 204P
Manix 2 CTS XHP - CPM Cru-wear - CPM M4