H1Spyderco Machete?

[Fireman]

For reference, this is what we could be looking at. A blade only then people make their own handles.






Question is, can we make full width serrations? Think single bevel chisel grind serrations so all you need is the sharpening rods and keep the angle. Kinda like sharpening teeth on a chain saw. We had to field sharpen chainsaws regularly. A stainless field maintainable serrated machete is quite useful and could get adopted by large agencies.

[vivi]

Something that gives me serious pause regarding a fully serrated machete is the idea of fixing edge damage.

trivial to do with PE. Not so much with SE.

Touching up SE is easy. Removing a lot of material to repair damage is not.

I'm not sure I'd drop much $$ on a full SE machete, as I wouldn't expect it to work as well for my uses.

But a boutique H2 spyderco machete in PE? Price would be no object if the overall design looks sound.

If I had a quick way to grind serrations I'd serrate an 18" tramontina and test it out. I use my machetes on both brush and wood, and I just don't see serrations holding up, much less doing better than PE, chipping through wrist thick branches etc.

I've damaged them in much gentler use.

[Fireman]

If the serrations were chisel grind full thickness you could have a double ended rod to reprofile and hone all in one and have it stored in the sheath. A leather rod strop would be cool too.

[Jeb]

V.

I am concerned on the fact of me tearing the SE up. Why I cut the teeth as far apart as I did on the above pic. My plan is as I sharpen this, the squared off teeth will be rounded over really slowing the tips, they will be wider.

This doesn't work, no bigger as this Kukri is not of good enough quality to worry about. I just have some big concerns of the tips of the teeth if not really wide breaking off to easy. Heck even the wider teeth may break off too.

So many things here I have going on against a good test, the biggest being the poor quality Kukri I am using to start with lol. I am looking at adding a few more teeth toward the handle, I think I have room for 10-12 more easy enough.

V, I can't tear this thing up with me pounding on it, you want me to send it your way? I would love for someone else to pound it, if I can't tear it up...

[Fireman]

If you know chainsaw sharpening, you obviously know to find the worst tooth and see how many strokes it takes to right it and then you use the same amount of strokes on each tooth. So that the whole chain gets worn evenly. So if it took 6 strokes to right the tooth you do that to every one and whatever you need to make it as sharp as you need repeated again. A think a two rod or double ended rod designed for the scalop size would be a great thing. Better if it’s already the same size as Spyderco already produces. Question is, what grit CBN rod would be good for repairing serrations.
See how this Japanese grass sickle has directional serrations…
This website has better pics.
https://japanesegardencraft.com/serrate ... le-review/



A triangle file is needed to reprofile the teeth but you still have the issue of reprofiling the edge geometry once the teeth are worn. I think this is why a full width single bevel chisel might be best.

[JoviAl]

If you know chainsaw sharpening, you obviously know to find the worst tooth and see how many strokes it takes to right it and then you use the same amount of strokes on each tooth. So that the whole chain gets worn evenly. So if it took 6 strokes to right the tooth you do that to every one and whatever you need to make it as sharp as you need repeated again. A think a two rod or double ended rod designed for the scalop size would be a great thing. Better if it’s already the same size as Spyderco already produces. Question is, what grit CBN rod would be good for repairing serrations.
See how this Japanese grass sickle has directional serrations…
This website has better pics.
https://japanesegardencraft.com/serrate ... le-review/



A triangle file is needed to reprofile the teeth but you still have the issue of reprofiling the edge geometry once the teeth are worn. I think this is why a full width single bevel chisel might be best.

I suppose fundamentally what grit and abrasive to use boils down to what blade steel is used. The 14C28N on the first iteration I’ve done sharpens up easily with brown rods, but I’ve on purpose made the scallops on my belt sander so I can easily reshape/resharpen them on it in case of major damage. I’m always tight for time at work so being able to kiss them on the sander and them be sharp again is a real bonus. The scallops being wider also makes them a piece of cake to resharpen with any of my other manual SE methods.

[Fireman]

If this stainless blade gets made like a symmetrical Smatchet it may be my new SHTF machete that doubles as a BBQ knife breaking down ribs and brisket with ease. Maybe next seconds sale camp out, someone will bring a smoker and use this kitchen machete “Kitchete” to serve some good food while everyone is freezing their marbles off.

[zhyla]

I think a double edged tool is an excellent idea, one fully serrated and one plain edge.

Oof. Hard disagree. It forces you into poor ergonomics (both blade and handle).

[Fireman]

I don’t want to overload the concept phase but I do have an idea to take out the vibration. As someone who has done construction in a past life I understand repetitive shock and vibration issue.

[Fireman]

I think a double edged tool is an excellent idea, one fully serrated and one plain edge.

Oof. Hard disagree. It forces you into poor ergonomics (both blade and handle).

Glad so many people are passionate about this idea. Lots of machetes have sawblades on the spine but if it’s a symmetrical design like the cold steel double edged machete it would be good imho. If the blade and handles are sold separately, one could use a symmetrical or one sided handle design as needed. If the “Mule” is just serrated on one side the owner could sharpen the other side if desired. I think the smatchet double edged design can take out variables to get a true apples to apples comparison for testing purposes

[zhyla]

Glad so many people are passionate about this idea. Lots of machetes have sawblades on the spine

I thought what was being discussed was a serrated blade to be swung thru brush and (hopefully) do that better than a plain edge machete.

The saw back machetes you’re describing are meant to be used as saws. Though my understanding is they make terrible saws.

[Bill1170]

Glad so many people are passionate about this idea. Lots of machetes have sawblades on the spine

I thought what was being discussed was a serrated blade to be swung thru brush and (hopefully) do that better than a plain edge machete.

The saw back machetes you’re describing are meant to be used as saws. Though my understanding is they make terrible saws.

Yes, if they were good saws they would be terrible machetes. The reason is that a saw needs teeth set (or brazed on) to be wider than the rest of the blade. On through cuts with the machete blade the tool will hang up on the saw teeth.

[zhyla]

Yes, if they were good saws they would be terrible machetes. The reason is that a saw needs teeth set (or brazed on) to be wider than the rest of the blade. On through cuts with the machete blade the tool will hang up on the saw teeth.

Aside from the “set” issue there’s also the matter of the blade stock being way too thick and the blade being too soft to make a good saw.

[Fireman]

My point was that using both sides of the machete is nothing new but having a fully serrated side is.

[Naperville]

I think a double edged tool is an excellent idea, one fully serrated and one plain edge.

Oof. Hard disagree. It forces you into poor ergonomics (both blade and handle).

It is very very hard to design anything with a committee. People have to keep an open mind while brainstorming.

I guess I better speak up and lay out my ideas.

- 15 to 18 inch long symmetric PROFILE blade similar to the Condor Tool & Knife CTK2849 Terrachete Machete
- while the profile should be symmetric, the thickness of the blade need not be. The thickness of the blade can taper from thicker to thinner. The serrated edge side of the machete can be thicker to support the serrations. The plain edge side of the machete can be thinner to improve PE cutting.
- my idea of one full serrated edge seems to have taken root
- one full plain edge on the opposite side of the symmetric blade
- a handle pommel that works with a symmetric profile could be something inspired by a Roman gladius sword

[Naperville]

Last year my mother approved work for the removal of upwards of 50+ large diameter weed trees on the property. There is still a patch of land with trees on it and I can test whatever comes of this project on those trees and branches, assuming a mule is forthcoming.

If there is no mule, I'll try to buy two of the final product, make one a user and go to town on the trees.

Right now I am going to buy one or two machetes that have been discussed in this thread for a comparison of the cutting event.

I think a double edged tool is an excellent idea, one fully serrated and one plain edge.

For a test mule, a symmetrical double edge would take out all the other factors so you can get a good test of plain edge vs serrated.
Even if it is serrated and the other side not sharpened, the user could put a plain edge on it pretty easily. This Cold Steel double edge Machete would be a good test mule for someone who has the ability to add serrations for testing.

Not a bad blade profile!

[Naperville]

I ordered a Silky Saws Outback Edition NATA Machete/Hatchet Fixed 10" Black Chisel Blade, Rubberized Genki Handle, Plastic Sheath.

Have some weed trees in planters surrounding the home that I need to get rid of.

[JoviAl]

I ordered a Silky Saws Outback Edition NATA Machete/Hatchet Fixed 10" Black Chisel Blade, Rubberized Genki Handle, Plastic Sheath.

Have some weed trees in planters surrounding the home that I need to get rid of.

Fun fact - I’m reliably informed by my Japanese buddy that the word ‘Genki’ roughly translates as ‘what’s up?!’ And is a popular slang greeting

I think you’re in for a treat with that Nata - it sort of occupies an interesting middle ground somewhere amongst the trifecta of machete, chopper and axe.

Edits for my phone thinking it knows better than me what I want to type

[vivi]

I think a double edged tool is an excellent idea, one fully serrated and one plain edge.

Oof. Hard disagree. It forces you into poor ergonomics (both blade and handle).

Glad so many people are passionate about this idea. Lots of machetes have sawblades on the spine but if it’s a symmetrical design like the cold steel double edged machete it would be good imho. If the blade and handles are sold separately, one could use a symmetrical or one sided handle design as needed. If the “Mule” is just serrated on one side the owner could sharpen the other side if desired. I think the smatchet double edged design can take out variables to get a true apples to apples comparison for testing purposes

I have the CS double edged machete and I'm not a fan. Terrible for batoning, can't really be used as a draw knife, harder to re-sheath cleanly etc.

To me it's easier to carry a DMT Diafold and touch up the edge every few hours and get to use my machetes for those uses than to carry a double edged one.

[TimButterfield]

There was mention of some different ideas earlier, a PE variation possibility, weight forward, with SE, but being able to use the back of the blade to press on with the other side. It may be possible to combine some of this. I'm just thinking out loud, throwing ideas on the wall to see what may stick. Here is one possibility:

Straight spine in line with the handle, unsharpened. This would allow for easily pressing anywhere along the spine. Provided as unsharpened, but straight, it would also be relatively easy to sharpen a PE all along the spine for those who need that. Or, if someone wanted both, they could leave a flat spot for pressing and sharpen the rest of the spine. Or, someone could even make a combination of sections for chop, press, and slice by varying the angles they grind.

Weight forward for swinging. With the straight spine, this would provide a negative angle for the sharp edge, which could be SE, along with some belly as it turns to connect with the flat spine.

If the blade had a flat grind angle that was relatively constant up to the belly, that would also provide a wider spine at that location for more comfortable pressing in addition to some added weight towards the tip. A thicker spine towards the tip may also be useful for those wanting to add a a chop grind in that area. Not sure if that extra weight may be too much, though.

There was a similar drawing to this earlier, but with the bottom sharp edge of that drawing being straight. This would flip that so the straight section would be the spine.

Curiosity for those testing the addition of SE on a PE blade. The SE I have seen from Spyderco so far have been with the PE and the SE on only one side of the blade. It makes me wonder how the SE effectiveness would vary if the blade starts with PE on both sides before SE is added to one side. Just makes me go hmmm.

As for the handles, the two-piece replaceable is interesting, though there was mention of it maybe not being robust enough. I saw an image on another forum of an early Buck fixed blade. It used a pommel nut. I wonder if a variation of that may be adapted here, perhaps as a double nut with inner and outer threads inside of the outer pommel area. A center treaded tube could screw onto threads on the end of the tang. Outside of that, another ring with larger threads could screw onto the two-piece handle. This may provide for a more robust handle end that locks the pieces together.