The serrated Chaparral is pretty cool

[benja-man]

Has anybody else experienced the apex on the XHP serrations rolling in regular use? I might go a bit mor shallow than the factory angle on my next resharpen...

Of course the proper solution to this problem would be a new run in a harder steel :-D j/K

[Ramonade]

Taïchung's XHP is pretty hard IIRC, but I don't get much rolling from it usually.
Maybe a few sharpenings at the same angle will fix that (so, in SE that means in a good while )

Anyways, Don't SE knives come with a 15° bevel and a microbevel at 20° ? sticking to that 20° with the white rods (after repairing the rolling if need be) should make it stronger and stronger over time

[dsvirsky]

Anyways, Don't SE knives come with a 15° bevel and a microbevel at 20° ? sticking to that 20° with the white rods (after repairing the rolling if need be) should make it stronger and stronger over time

Taichung, yes. Golden, yes. Seki, not in my experience, always a 20° bevel.

[Evil D]

Has anybody else experienced the apex on the XHP serrations rolling in regular use? I might go a bit mor shallow than the factory angle on my next resharpen...

Of course the proper solution to this problem would be a new run in a harder steel :-D j/K

They're extremely thin at the apex from the factory, it's not a terrible idea to sharpen them a few times to establish a more durable angle.

[benja-man]

Up to now I tried to match the 15 degree angle of the main serrations. So a 20° microbevel ist the way to go?

[zhyla]

Well, bevel angle choice is a large discussion about tradeoffs. But in this case I wonder where you are seeing rolling (points? valleys?), how deep the rolling is, and if there are obvious materials you’ve been cutting that could cause this.

I’ve had no such issues on mine. But I don’t think it’s touched anything but boxes and bubble packs etc.

If the damage is very fine it could just be a burr left over from factory sharpening. EvilD’s suggestion to sharpen it is the right next step. Sharpen at the factory angle and see how it goes.

[Wartstein]

Has anybody else experienced the apex on the XHP serrations rolling in regular use? I might go a bit mor shallow than the factory angle on my next resharpen...

Of course the proper solution to this problem would be a new run in a harder steel :-D j/K

Nothing I've noticed, but I'll check when I get home.

I definitely whittled quite some harder, dry wood with my Chap SE,some twisting of the blade included... but again, at least no damage of a severity I would have noticed.

[benja-man]

Well, bevel angle choice is a large discussion about tradeoffs. But in this case I wonder where you are seeing rolling (points? valleys?), how deep the rolling is, and if there are obvious materials you’ve been cutting that could cause this.

I’ve had no such issues on mine. But I don’t think it’s touched anything but boxes and bubble packs etc.

If the damage is very fine it could just be a burr left over from factory sharpening. EvilD’s suggestion to sharpen it is the right next step. Sharpen at the factory angle and see how it goes.

Just regular stuff here as well. Rolling occurs in the valleys and on the 'flat' side. I already sharpened the blade on the Sharpmaker, but I am a novice when it comes to burr removal on SE. I like the idea that I'm dealing with a stubborn burr and might try some more elaborate tactics to make sure I'll remove any burr and start a sharpening from scratch.

[zhyla]

Yeah, sharpen that burr away and avoid building one. And pick up a $10 loupe on Amazon so you can see what is going on.

[Evil D]

Up to now I tried to match the 15 degree angle of the main serrations. So a 20° microbevel ist the way to go?

I like to take every knife from a factory edge and use it and see what happens. If I start seeing edge damage on typical use then I'll start using the 15 degree slots on both sides of the blade. If I don't see edge damage I sometimes will do 15 degrees on the front and then lay the blade totally flat on a stone on the back. This will of course scratch up your entire blade so if you don't want that then stick with 15 on both sides. After that if you're still getting damage then you may need to try 20 on both sides. Beyond that point you might just be running into situations where edge damage might happen regardless of how you're sharpening and regardless of edge type but you can eliminate most of it by changing your apex angle. My attitude with every edge is to thin it out until it starts to show damage, then widen it back up until the damage stops.

[benja-man]

Up to now I tried to match the 15 degree angle of the main serrations. So a 20° microbevel ist the way to go?

I like to take every knife from a factory edge and use it and see what happens. If I start seeing edge damage on typical use then I'll start using the 15 degree slots on both sides of the blade. If I don't see edge damage I sometimes will do 15 degrees on the front and then lay the blade totally flat on a stone on the back. This will of course scratch up your entire blade so if you don't want that then stick with 15 on both sides. After that if you're still getting damage then you may need to try 20 on both sides. Beyond that point you might just be running into situations where edge damage might happen regardless of how you're sharpening and regardless of edge type but you can eliminate most of it by changing your apex angle. My attitude with every edge is to thin it out until it starts to show damage, then widen it back up until the damage stops.

Thanks @Evil D that's exactly the procedure I need. Will try 15 deg on the flat side next. Up to now, I used the most minimal angle I could manage.

[pinchyfisher]

Up to now I tried to match the 15 degree angle of the main serrations. So a 20° microbevel ist the way to go?

I like to take every knife from a factory edge and use it and see what happens. If I start seeing edge damage on typical use then I'll start using the 15 degree slots on both sides of the blade. If I don't see edge damage I sometimes will do 15 degrees on the front and then lay the blade totally flat on a stone on the back. This will of course scratch up your entire blade so if you don't want that then stick with 15 on both sides. After that if you're still getting damage then you may need to try 20 on both sides. Beyond that point you might just be running into situations where edge damage might happen regardless of how you're sharpening and regardless of edge type but you can eliminate most of it by changing your apex angle. My attitude with every edge is to thin it out until it starts to show damage, then widen it back up until the damage stops.

Was trying to find this advice and took me awhile to find who/where. Thanks @Evil D!

Chap SE is the first SE I've found practical for everyday use. Have been carrying it exclusively for a month. Seems like I'm getting a slight bit of edge damage with 15 on the grind/flat on the back sharpening approach. Will try 15deg on the back and I'm confident it'll do the trick.

I appreciate the wisdom here!

[kobold]

Using the corner of a leather strop on the back works too. No scratches.