WorkingEdge wrote:Cliff - regarding your 10v delica comment, why clad?
A clad should allow you to get the properties in the edge to make the cutting tool and then put the properties elsewhere to get the toughness up, grindability and maintenance up, and even possibly add corrosion resistance (not easy).
A big issue with really high carbide steels is getting them sharpened in a reasonable amount of time without having to resort to fairly specialized equipment. If the steel is cladded this is made much easier as you can modify the primary grind much faster.
Now of course you could ask, "Ah, how many people besides you actually do that?" . I don't know, but there is no harm in suggesting it though I would not oppose the argument that not a lot of people would utilize it by thinning the primary.
However I do think you would see the toughness/tip effect though, just try prying with a ZDP-189 tip or using a ZDP-189 blade with very pointy serrations and look at the point durability vs H1 serrations.
(try it with a friends knife, just tell them it is in the name of science if they get upset, that is what I do)
I thought you mentioned in past clads tend to be weaker than solid pieces (unless the "core 10v" is so much more brittle than the clad steel?)
Yes the clad would be weaker but it doesn't need to be overly so, it only really is if you do Japanese style clads but you don't need to do that extreme. For example do a 3V-class steel/10V clad, or even some kind of stainless. The trick is finding a steel which will respond to the same HT cycle and won't pull itself apart by having different expansion properties.
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