Food Grade Protectant for Tool Steels

[alphaneuron9]

I use KPL knife shield and so far no rust or patina on Maxamet, 15V, 10V or Cruwear. This has been a hot humid summer in the mid Atlantic so it seems to be working.

I do try to dry them off when needed but I don’t baby them either.

Nice. Thank you.

[alphaneuron9]

No idea if it works well on knives but it does work well on cutting boards I make.
IMG_5091.jpeg

I saw this board and thought to myself what a beautiful board. I have no idea how that is made. Must be delicate work. Beautiful.

[alphaneuron9]

Have a butchers block as an island in the kitchen (and was a butcher for 20 years.)


Funny when visitors ask for a bread board because they are too scared to cut on it


Just good old cheap mineral oil on knives and timber.
I keep an old square of a T-shirt soaked in it in a snap lock bag handy for application.

I have to agree with you on the mineral oil. Hey, it is FDA approved as a remedy for constipation. So check on the food safe box. Its an oil therefore hydrophobic so protects against rusting and its a lubricant. And its very affordable. I saw a youtuber trying to convince his audience that nano-oil is ok to eat in little doses. I personally don't know what's in it, but if heavy metals like arsenic or cadmium end up in it, then, no, its not ok to eat. So, as a doctor, I dont recommend you eat nano-oil. lol...

[Bolster]

Thanks for all the alternates, many/most of them food-safe. Readers please do your own reconnaissance. Not claiming expertise, but I did a little:

Flitz: “Flitz, an ever-present name in knife maintenance, puts out a variety of lubricants, waxes, and polishing pastes. Their eco-friendly wax is USDA-approved, but some of their polishes contain trade-secret ingredients that can be harmful or even fatal if eaten.”

Nano Oil: “The literature on Nano-Oil‘s food-friendliness is thin, but if you use your knife to cut food it’s clear from the Safety Data Sheet that there are safer options.”

https://knifenews.com/lubricants-to-avo ... food-prep/

“Ballistol and Froglube are advertised as being nontoxic. Trouble is, both have odors that, while they become fainter with time when exposed as a thin film on a knife blade, are again not fragrances that complement most foods.”

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/wha ... s.1450372/

[Crox]

I like using Frog Lube. It's not magic - doesn't seem to last all that long. Helps some.

Also, in my (online) research, many believe it is predominantly Coconut Oil. I am going to switch over as that is definitely food safe.

[Bolster]

^ Keep in mind coconut oil can and does go rancid, so keep it fresh!

[Bill1170]

^ Keep in mind coconut oil can and does go rancid, so keep it fresh!

Really? That has not been my experience. For an edible (and nutritive!) oil, coconut oil is amazingly stable at room temperature.

[Bolster]

^ Keep in mind coconut oil can and does go rancid, so keep it fresh!

Really? That has not been my experience. For an edible (and nutritive!) oil, coconut oil is amazingly stable at room temperature.

More stable than vegetable oils but:
https://www.oliverandgrapely.com/does-c ... ncid-uses/

[alphaneuron9]

Yeah, Im with standy99 on this one. Mineral oil. On my knives and my cutting boards. There are enough environmental sources for carcinogens and chemical irritants. Im not going to introduce another source through my hobby.

[Crox]

^ Keep in mind coconut oil can and does go rancid, so keep it fresh!

Good call. I'll lick it clean nightly and reapply!

[alphaneuron9]

^ Keep in mind coconut oil can and does go rancid, so keep it fresh!

Good call. I'll lick it clean nightly and reapply!

[mrdavidkolds]

Men of my fathers generation,WW2, all carried carbon steel pocket knives and they stained. Every man had one in his pocket, and if you talk to them, they can tell you stories about the Knife and the ones they lost and still miss.
High carbon steel just seems to get sharper.
Right now my favorite modern steel is K390. It stains but doesn’t seem to affect the functionality.
One example: chrome vanadium CV Case knives are more satisfying and practical to use than Case’s stainless steel knifes. One of my favorite knives is an inexpensive little yellow case slimline trapper in CV steel. It’s always sharp because when I get home I swipe it a few times on my Spyderco sharpener and it gets really sharp, ready to go, The stains don’t Bother me.

[Dion_B]

I use chapstick. It stays put well, food safe and I usually have it with me in the winter.

[Bill1170]

^ Keep in mind coconut oil can and does go rancid, so keep it fresh!

Really? That has not been my experience. For an edible (and nutritive!) oil, coconut oil is amazingly stable at room temperature.

More stable than vegetable oils but:
https://www.oliverandgrapely.com/does-c ... ncid-uses/

Thanks for that link, it was interesting reading. One of the uses for rancid coconut oil mentioned in the linked article is as a rust preventative on steel tools. I’m pretty sensitive to the odor of rancid oils and coconut oil stays good smelling for years, even stored at room temperature.

[JD Spydo]

I've used the Butcher Block because I use it on my cutting boards and counters and it is handy. However, I more often use Vaseline. Interestingly, the wonderful Thiers Issard straight razor company in Thiers, France, recommends Vaseline by name for protecting their delicate carbon steel razors.

That is really interesting that a company as reputable as Thiers Issard would put their seal of approval on something as cheap and common as vaseline. Not sure how "food safe" it would be because it is a petroleum by product which always causes me concern.

I've used the Flitz metal wax on some of my various blades, tools and other metal items that I store long term. I've had such great luck with all of the FLITZ products over the years. I've also had great luck using Ballistol as a protectant on a wide range of metal tools. Yeah the Ballistol odor isn't the best but it does work and works great. Just use some Isopropyl Alcohol ( 91%) and it will strip off any residue and make it safe to use for any type of food use. Overall Isopropyl Alcohol is a relatively safe solvent to use if you wipe it clean and dry.

[kennbr34]

I use chapstick. It stays put well, food safe and I usually have it with me in the winter.

Surprised I got to page two before seeing someone suggest chapstick.

[Doc Dan]

I've used the Butcher Block because I use it on my cutting boards and counters and it is handy. However, I more often use Vaseline. Interestingly, the wonderful Thiers Issard straight razor company in Thiers, France, recommends Vaseline by name for protecting their delicate carbon steel razors.

That is really interesting that a company as reputable as Thiers Issard would put their seal of approval on something as cheap and common as vaseline. Not sure how "food safe" it would be because it is a petroleum by product which always causes me concern.

I've used the Flitz metal wax on some of my various blades, tools and other metal items that I store long term. I've had such great luck with all of the FLITZ products over the years. I've also had great luck using Ballistol as a protectant on a wide range of metal tools. Yeah the Ballistol odor isn't the best but it does work and works great. Just use some Isopropyl Alcohol ( 91%) and it will strip off any residue and make it safe to use for any type of food use. Overall Isopropyl Alcohol is a relatively safe solvent to use if you wipe it clean and dry.

Well, I have known people who would eat a spoonful a day. It kept them regular.

Vaseline is paraffin wax and mineral oil, both of which can be consumed in small quantities. Burt's Bees chapstick has petroleum jelly in it, as a matter of fact.

Flitz wax and other such stuff is good, too. It's not food grade, but I used to use Turtle car wax on my hunting rifles to protect the blued steel from rain and snow.

[Ferruginous]

Men of my fathers generation,WW2, all carried carbon steel pocket knives and they stained. Every man had one in his pocket, and if you talk to them, they can tell you stories about the Knife and the ones they lost and still miss.
High carbon steel just seems to get sharper.
Right now my favorite modern steel is K390. It stains but doesn’t seem to affect the functionality.
One example: chrome vanadium CV Case knives are more satisfying and practical to use than Case’s stainless steel knifes. One of my favorite knives is an inexpensive little yellow case slimline trapper in CV steel. It’s always sharp because when I get home I swipe it a few times on my Spyderco sharpener and it gets really sharp, ready to go, The stains don’t Bother me.

I know what you mean by "High carbon steel just seems to get sharper". I loved my 52100 Military because I could get a screaming sharp edge easily. It was also tough, and held that edge well.

I've found that Magnacut is similar. I'm getting very sharp edges, with little effort, and it holds it longer than my 52100 did. Oh and it doesn't rust. Elmax too.

[Fireman]

No idea if it works well on knives but it does work well on cutting boards I make.
IMG_5091.jpeg

I love this Jackson Pollack cutting board. Ever used tapered strips of contrasting wood for effect?

[Fireman]

PS. I use lip balm stick a lot which varies in ingredients but handy and convenient. Learned that here on this forum.