No! My PM2!

Discuss Spyderco's products and history.
GronK
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#21

Post by GronK »

This is why I keep one (or more) of these Swedish sweethearts in my toolkit. Perfect functionality but no big deal if they get damaged.

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chuck_roxas45
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#22

Post by chuck_roxas45 »

kbuzbee wrote:Exactly this, Chuck. If someone has something they need cut, I'll be more than happy to cut it or them.

Ken
Yep. :D
dskobli
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#23

Post by dskobli »

Yesterday my wife asked me to use my knife (1 week old manix 2 g10 s30v) after I asked her for what and she told me to pry the little tabs up on the back of a picture frame. I told her "NO"! She thought it was dumb that I have a pocket knife I couldn't use.lol this is exactly why I said no though. Then again I'm scared to even use it to cut with because I don't have a sharpener yet and can't decide which one to get.
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Manix Guy 2
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#24

Post by Manix Guy 2 »

Injury not too bad seen worse ! Lesson learned I hope . Knife has a unique character enjoy , been there with many others . Regards MG2
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RevDevil
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#25

Post by RevDevil »

chuck_roxas45 wrote:I don't lend knives. If it's a fellow knife guy, then he'll have his own. If it's not, then I don't care to lend him mine. I also no longer care to bring a knife with me just to lend.
This. I don't loan my knives either. If someone wants to cut something and they ask me, I will gladly cut it for them. As for the multitool issue, They have a place and have proven very useful for quite a lot of things in my line of work as well as in everyday life. One thing about knives, part of owning them is being able to maintain and sharpen them. Buy some stones, a Sharpmaker, or a economy guided system. That looks to be about 1/16" of the tip missing. It's definitely aggravating, but I'd think throwing an additional $20 and being out my knife for a couple weeks would be even more aggravating for me.
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chuck_roxas45
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#26

Post by chuck_roxas45 »

Manix Guy 2 wrote:Injury not too bad seen worse ! Lesson learned I hope . Knife has a unique character enjoy , been there with many others . Regards MG2
I prefer to put my own characted marks on my knife myself. :)
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CarbonFiberNut
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#27

Post by CarbonFiberNut »

dskobli wrote:Yesterday my wife asked me to use my knife (1 week old manix 2 g10 s30v) after I asked her for what and she told me to pry the little tabs up on the back of a picture frame. I told her "NO"! She thought it was dumb that I have a pocket knife I couldn't use.lol this is exactly why I said no though. Then again I'm scared to even use it to cut with because I don't have a sharpener yet and can't decide which one to get.
Honestly, I might get some flack for this, and it might expose me as the onetime Busse fanboy (and by extension de-facto knife abuser) I used to be, but I wouldn't hesitate to use my pocket knife for this.

I wouldn't hand it to someone else to do this, because I don't trust them to take the same care as I would, but I am not sure I understand this tendency to completely baby a knife. Especially a fairly beastly knife like the manix 2.

I've batoned my manix 2 XL :eek: Then again, I've done that with my FFG Endura too.
◊ Manix 2 XL ◊ Manix 2 lightweight blue ◊ Caly 3 carbon fiber ◊ Caly 3 damascus / CF ◊ Lum Chinese Nishijin ◊ Sage 1 ◊ Superleaf
◊ Dragonfly FRN serrated ◊ Endura Gen 1 ◊ Rescue Gen 1 ◊ Endura 4 FFG ◊ Delica 4 half serrated ◊ Mule Team ◊ Spin ◊ Bushcraft UK
◊ S110V Forum Native 5 ◊ Black Nishijin Cricket

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Top 5 most wanted: Domino, Dice, CF Para-2, CF Cricket. Seeing a theme here?
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Scottie3000
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#28

Post by Scottie3000 »

Sorry to hear your story. I've learned that lending a knife will usually end on it being returned in worse condition than when it was lent. My go to phrase is "I'd be happy to cut that for you." Sometimes I also carry a beater knife that isn't very sharp(I don't care about it being sharp, I don't use it) and has some damage ( from being lent out).

As for yours, I would grind the spine to meet the point and call it good. It's not a huge loss of tip (though any is a disappointment) so it should make very little difference in the function of the knife.
On order: Maxamet Native 5
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Bladekeeper
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#29

Post by Bladekeeper »

Yeah he'd be getting the bill but from what I see on iPod (poor display) its at the area where if you have a sharp maker you 'could' re profile through the rods.
Depending on the rods available it may take time but its a learning process .
I'm guessing you don't though as your sending it off fair enough but either your mate buys the beers or foots the bill.
And when I drank if it'd been the beer bill he'd have been a lot better off replacing the pm2 :D .
I'd have raged I'm OCD with my knives if I break them ok I'm a prat if somebody else does ill lecture them so hard they'll be so tired of my whining they'll buy a new one ;) .
At least it hasn't cracked at the curve or it'd be a hard user write off hope it turns out good .
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Gunslinger
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#30

Post by Gunslinger »

I always keep a beater Ladybug 3 for prying and scraping.
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endgame
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#31

Post by endgame »

I use my Byrd's trod prying
endgame
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#32

Post by endgame »

That ie easly fixable.send it in if you cant do it youreself.I'm sure one of the reprofiling masters here can walk you threw it.I would just send it back with 20$ it will come back looking new.I did this to one also since its so small they can do it no probe.but if you do it youreself and skrew it up and take two much off they probe cant.send it to golden get 20$ from you're friend.
arjay18
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#33

Post by arjay18 »

chuck_roxas45 wrote:I don't lend knives. If it's a fellow knife guy, then he'll have his own. If it's not, then I don't care to lend him mine. I also no longer care to bring a knife with me just to lend.
Aww.. man! Does that mean you wont lend me your knife if I come visit you? :rolleyes:
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chuck_roxas45
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#34

Post by chuck_roxas45 »

arjay18 wrote:Aww.. man! Does that mean you wont lend me your knife if I come visit you? :rolleyes:
Haha, only if you promise not to pry with it. :D
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Sharktooth
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#35

Post by Sharktooth »

Ditch him. Any friend who would do that to a PM2 is no friend at all. ;) j/k of course
:spyder:
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Pinetreebbs
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#36

Post by Pinetreebbs »

According to Captain Obvious, the king of 20-20 hindsight, the title of your thread should have been your original response. :D
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Kev83
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#37

Post by Kev83 »

****.. I feel your pain.. As someone earlier posted a link to my thread on what happened to me.. Hope you get it back quick!
fanglekai
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#38

Post by fanglekai »

CarbonFiberNut wrote:Honestly, I might get some flack for this, and it might expose me as the onetime Busse fanboy (and by extension knife de-facto knife abuser) I used to be, but I wouldn't hesitate to use my pocket knife for this.

I wouldn't hand it to someone else to do this, because I don't trust them to take the same care as I would, but I am not sure I understand this tendency to completely baby a knife. Especially a fairly beastly knife like the manix 2.

I've batoned my manix 2 XL :eek: Then again, I've done that with my FFG Endura too.
Hardened knife blades aren't meant for prying things unless they have geometry that allows them to handle lateral forces. Most knife blades are too thin to handle large lateral forces, which is why people snap tips so easily. Applying a load to a thin cross section of hardened blade steel is asking to snap the tip. If I had a .33" thick Busse knife I wouldn't hesitate to pry with it or with something like a BK2.

This is why carrying a SAK with the cap lifter is a good idea. It can be used to pry some things in a pinch.
Cliff Stamp
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#39

Post by Cliff Stamp »

fanglekai wrote:Hardened knife blades aren't meant for prying things unless they have geometry that allows them to handle lateral forces.
If you were to use this argument then it would raise the question as to what the blades are designed to do if it isn't handle lateral forces. I do agree that concern needs to be taken when prying, however needing a 0.33" blade to pry open the thin tabs on a picture frame is a bit of an extreme response.

The main reason that tips break so easily is due to :

-tips are over heated much more often than blade bodies (in all thermal processing)
-tips are much more sensitive to banding and grain orientation
-tips are very sensitive to carbide aggregates as just one aggregate can span a large fraction of the tip

This is why for example you can take a steel which has high edge stability and bend the tip seriously to the side and it won't crack off but a very high carbide steel like ZDP-189 will break almost instantly when loaded at the tip in thin cross sections.

As for the original post, while I can understand a bit of discomfort at having a broken tip, the same extent of damage could happen if the knife was just dropped or by accident cut through soft material and hit something hard.
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CarbonFiberNut
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#40

Post by CarbonFiberNut »

fanglekai wrote:Hardened knife blades aren't meant for prying things unless they have geometry that allows them to handle lateral forces. Most knife blades are too thin to handle large lateral forces, which is why people snap tips so easily. Applying a load to a thin cross section of hardened blade steel is asking to snap the tip. If I had a .33" thick Busse knife I wouldn't hesitate to pry with it or with something like a BK2.
We aren't talking about large lateral forces here - we are talking about tabs on a picture frame. Sure, you don't use the very tip of the knife, but with even a modicum of knowledge on how to use a tool, prying up something that can pried without damaging a lady's manicure should be able to be pried with your knife.

Don't use it to try to pull nails or try to pry with the tip, sure, but this OMGZ NEVER PRY ANYTHING silliness is taking it to a bit of an absurd extreme.
◊ Manix 2 XL ◊ Manix 2 lightweight blue ◊ Caly 3 carbon fiber ◊ Caly 3 damascus / CF ◊ Lum Chinese Nishijin ◊ Sage 1 ◊ Superleaf
◊ Dragonfly FRN serrated ◊ Endura Gen 1 ◊ Rescue Gen 1 ◊ Endura 4 FFG ◊ Delica 4 half serrated ◊ Mule Team ◊ Spin ◊ Bushcraft UK
◊ S110V Forum Native 5 ◊ Black Nishijin Cricket

[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

Top 5 most wanted: Domino, Dice, CF Para-2, CF Cricket. Seeing a theme here?
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