Mule tutorial using the router table

Brad S. · #21

Hector Castro wrote:<font color="red"><font size="5"><BLINK>This safety message was brought to you by JNewell! </BLINK></font></font>
All kidding aside. JNewell is correct. If you have never used a router, it can be a very dangerous tool if used incorrectly! This process is not very feasible without a router table and proper made jig.

Thats very very true! I had a student lose a finger that way just last year.

Bill1170 · #22

JNewell wrote:I hope this won't be taken amiss - I just want to caution folks that router tables call for very, very careful use. The damage you can do to yourself makes knives look like children's playthings. In less than a blink of an eye a cutter doing maybe 50k rpm will turn your fingers into vapor and pulp.

Yes, router tables are dangerous. With Hector's method, the riskiest part is making the template from the mule. After that it is only wood near the cutter and hands are well away from the action. Hector, thanks for the tutorial.

Bill

Oh, only ~23,000 rpm. :)

JNewell · #23

For starters, folks need to absolutely remember that the only safe way to work on a router table is to move the piece into (i.e., against the direction of rotation) of the bit. If you move the work in the direction in which the bit is rotating, fingers that appear to be quite far away from the bit can find their way into it in a heartbeat, with disasterous and permanent results...we now return you to your regularly scheduled thread...

raythebigfoot · #24

I agree, please be careful routing these small pieces. Looks good and appreciate the post but I still prefer using a drum sander myself. It's much quicker in my book. Looks like Hector there has the incra router fence with a woodpecker table top and router lift. Pretty fancy set up, just about the same as mine :-) I know you have fun with that router table, you can do just about anything with it.

asfaltpiloot · #25

Very nice.
Thank you.

Sequimite · #26

JNewell wrote:For starters, folks need to absolutely remember that the only safe way to work on a router table is to move the piece into (i.e., against the direction of rotation) of the bit. If you move the work in the direction in which the bit is rotating, fingers that appear to be quite far away from the bit can find their way into it in a heartbeat, with disasterous and permanent results...we now return you to your regularly scheduled thread...

Thanks for the reminders. Let's broaden this to all power tools. I know two people that have lost fingers on table saws. Every power tool should be handled like a loaded gun. I cringe when I make that comparison because of all the accidents waiting to happen I see toting around guns.

Before turning on a power tool, have all your motions preplanned and go particularly slowly and carefully when you have a new tool.

Hector Castro · #27

Some members on the forum approached me (PM) and wanted to know if I would make some basic scales for them. Here are some pictures of scales I have been working on. Several different types of wood. Several different stages of completion. On the piece of Paduak (redish orange board) in a clockwise order starting at bottom left. Quarter sawn Beech, Cocobolo, Paduak, 4 Curly Maple.
Above the board, starting bottom left going clockwise. Cocobolo, cocobolo, zebra wood, bocote, zebra, bocote

Hector Castro · #28

More pics. The chess board, really made the previous picture "Yellow"

vampyrewolf the Cocobolo ones are yours!

<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg27 ... les006.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg27 ... les006.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg27 ... les007.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg27 ... les007.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/albums/gg27 ... les008.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg27 ... les008.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Hector Castro · #29

Some pics of two finished handles. They are not epoxied to the knife yet.

Hector Castro · #30

anti-torsion · #31

Looking great Hector!

Hector Castro · #32

I just received some black paper micarta in the mail today!!!!!!! I can't wait to start cutting it up into scales! My tan canvas micarta was back ordered :-(
I guess I will have to order some blue G-10 to match my Yojimbo!

raythebigfoot · #33

Hector Castro wrote:I just received some black paper micarta in the mail today!!!!!!! I can't wait to start cutting it up into scales! My tan canvas micarta was back ordered :-(
I guess I will have to order some blue G-10 to match my Yojimbo!

Please DON'T use the router method for the micarta and G10!

PS: so how many of the incra joints have you made with that table? Used it for any blanket chests?

Hector Castro · #34

raythebigfoot wrote:Please DON'T use the router method for the micarta and G10!

Can you give more details?

I have not used the incra jig for many joints..... I have made some blind dovetails with it, some finger joints, and wooden hinges. I just love it as a great rounter fence. It is very versatile, and very accurate. If you need to move it forward or back 1/64th" it will do it. If you have to go back and make another cut with it, it will reset to a previous position as if you never moved it!

raythebigfoot · #35

Hector Castro wrote:Can you give more details?

Micarta and G10 are MUCH harder than any wood and will not act exactly like such; try cutting G10 with your bandsaw and it will cut but will ruin your blade after one or two passes unless you have it set to lower speeds used to cut metal...you can actually see the sparks coming off of your blade as it dulls it down to nothing. Even if you could get your router slow enough you would have to take off only a minimal amount at a time and I think it's pretty dangerous. Might work with the micarta but I doubt it. Either way it will probably ruin your router bit. Micarta and G10 will both burn and although I've never tried it at the router table, having used it extensively I would guess that it would burn pretty bad around the edges. You may burn your router up and you may even hurt yourself. Now I'm not saying that it's impossible. If you could get your router (probably 3 HP and above) down to minimal speeds and take off maybe only 1/32" at a time it might work but if you try and run it through like wood something is going to give. I would recommend not trying it.

I have the fence as well with that same tabletop...have made a few of the joints on smaller pieces but was thinking about doing blanket chest with it so I just wondered if you have worked with it on larger pieces.

Hector Castro · #36

raythebigfoot wrote:Micarta and G10 are MUCH harder than any wood and will not act exactly like such; try cutting G10 with your bandsaw and it will cut but will ruin your blade after one or two passes unless you have it set to lower speeds used to cut metal...you can actually see the sparks coming off of your blade as it dulls it down to nothing. Even if you could get your router slow enough you would have to take off only a minimal amount at a time and I think it's pretty dangerous. Might work with the micarta but I doubt it. Either way it will probably ruin your router bit. Micarta and G10 will both burn and although I've never tried it at the router table, having used it extensively I would guess that it would burn pretty bad around the edges. You may burn your router up and you may even hurt yourself. Now I'm not saying that it's impossible. If you could get your router (probably 3 HP and above) down to minimal speeds and take off maybe only 1/32" at a time it might work but if you try and run it through like wood something is going to give. I would recommend not trying it.

I have the fence as well with that same tabletop...have made a few of the joints on smaller pieces but was thinking about doing blanket chest with it so I just wondered if you have worked with it on larger pieces.

Ray,

i am not saying that you are incorrect, I would just like another opinion on this.

Tricod,

Can you confirm this? How do you cut your G-10 and Micarta?

Brad S. · #37

G-10 and micarta have been no problem for me on the router. They are however harder to cut on a bandsaw, but I think it all depends on your blades. Are you using carbide tip router bits? I rout G-10 daily.

Brad S. · #38

heck I rout Titanium and aluminum daily.

Bill1170 · #39

I have routed a fair bit of micarta and it cuts like wood, only harder. G-10 will dull the carbide faster because of the glass, but it also will cut fine by router. One nice thing is that neither one is going to melt and stick to the cutter like acrylic or ABS. Dust collection is a real good idea, and the phenolic matrix in the micarta stinks when you rout it.

Bill

JNewell · #40

Hector, you know that working on G10 and carbon fiber requires really good dust control and respiratory protection, right?