JD Spydo wrote: ↑
Tue May 14, 2019 5:29 pm
That's a really thorough rundown on your sharpening gear>> I don't really know where to start. I have one of the older Byrd DUCKFOOT models but to be honest I'm slightly disappointed with it. It just isn't coarse enough for me. However I have heard that they are considering doing a GOLDENSTONE in CBN which I think would even be better yet IMO?
Actually I don't use my GALLEY V kit for serrations as much as I do with "Recurve", Reverse S, and Hawkbill blade styles. For blades with curves the contour of the "Cat's Eye" stones that come with that kit just seem to really go well with the curved blades. The "Cat's Eye" stones on my GALLEY V kit are about all I use on my Spyderco DODO models.
Speaking of Ultra-Fine stones. That's the GOLDENSTONE I want the most after a really coarse one. An Ultra-Fine GOLDENSTONE to me would be a great portable tool. I don't yet have that bigger Ultra-Fine Benchstone but it is high on my list to get this year.
Yeah you're on the same page as I am as far as want you ultimately want from your sharpening equipment. Oh!!?? by the way have you ever got to try a set of the older/discontinued Spyderco 701 Profile kit? That's the tool I like the use most for serrations. I bought 3 more sets when they discontinued them. I do believe from what you've said that you would love a set of 701 Profiles.
Thanks JD. Yeah, I realised I was actually thinking of the 701 Profiles with regard to the comment about sharpening serrations, but I had confused it with the Galley in my mind.
Both setups are before my time. I know you and a couple of others have championed the 701 Profiles for a while, but I don’t recall actually seeing a picture of their shape before.
For anyone in the same boat:
They look really useful with that design incorporating two radius sizes on the edges for serrations and light honing strokes.
I’d certainly buy a set if they were re-released.
At the moment I use an Idahone white rod for freehanding the large scallops on SE edges, and the Doublestuff 2 corners for the spike serrations.
I actually came to Spyderco’s sharpening gear kind of backwards, having previously been a Japanese waterstone sharpener (mostly using the Naniwa Choseras).
After trying out the Sharpmaker for set angle microbevelling, I realised I had been missing out on some excellent, very well thought out sharpening gear.
At the moment, my technique on high carbide PM steels is to use a coarse benchstone like the Atoma 140 to set quite a low bevel in the region of 10-12 dps, in order to remove material behind the edge. I don’t cleanly apex with the benchstones, but get close to it.
After cleaning up the bevel with an Atoma/Venev progression and finally polishing with the Spyderco UF benchstone, I use the Sharpmaker to cleanly apex at 15dps and finish with some very light 20dps passes. I don’t call it microbevelling, as it’s visible to the naked eye, but you know what I mean.
I won’t claim it’s ‘the best’ sharpening method, but it works well for me for the following reasons.
- After the initial sharpening session, resharpening is very easy and quick, because so little material needs to be removed at the apex area to reestablish a clean edge.
- cutting performance is greatly improved by reducing the behind the edge thickness.
- stability with high carbide steels is good as the actual apex area is 15-20dps.
- for those who like to tinker with edge finishes like myself, it’s only a matter of a few passes to apply a different grit finish at the apex area. (Usually I just refresh the edge with the Doublestuff2 or UF stone. For ‘working’ knives the Medium brown stones are fine to finish on )
- it’s a good way to put a high performance edge on other peoples knives who know how to use the Sharpmaker, but aren’t confident on the benchstones.
Gradually the ‘microbevel’ creeps up the acute ‘backbevel’, and thickens, until it’s time to go back to the benchstones.
Here’s a pic with some random knives sharpened this way:
None of this is new or original, but it works well to address the question most edge junkies have faced: ‘if a high carbide steel needs to be run at a relatively thick geometry and obtuse edge angle to support the edge, then what’s the point?’
I’ve examined quite a few pocket knives from the Sheffield ‘Golden Age’, around 1890-1930, and this is similar to the edge geometry that made them famous cutting tools. Thin blades, tapered out to the tip, swedged at the spine, and flat ground down to 0.012”-0.015” behind the edge, then apexed with a tiny 15-20dps edge bevel.
Sorry to veer slightly OT.
JD, are the 701 Profiles about the same size as the Doublestuff stone?
When the Goldenstone comes out with the 15dps base, I think I’ll get one, based on the recommendations of you and others here.
That’s interesting about the Duckfoot. Is the CBN about the same as the Doublestuff2 grit size?
I also like the cats-eye rods on the Galley and Gauntlet and will probably get the standalone rods without the base, to use as freehand honing rods.
Thanks for starting this thread, I always like hearing and learning from from the ‘edge junkies’.