Spyderco Forums

You still didn't say what was wrong with the knife and how it happened?

I"m curious what happened/was done to the knife and what was the extent of the damage that you wanted fixed for free?

FWIW, and I'm not defending anyone here, the moon photo was acknowledged to have been used out of context and had nothing to do with the vet issues. I'm also a vet.

Mr. Stamp's paring knife notwithstanding, the edge is convex, though it is not well represented by the edge at the choil which is what you see in the photo. It is normal to lift the grind right at the choil so you don't round that point at the rear of the edge. What you can see in the photo is that ...

Actually "The" Hossom was my big brother. I'm just plain ole Jerry. Nothing special. :)

Blackhair has "speculated" pretty well IMO. It really does depend on what you will use it for. If building a shelter comes into your vocabulary, the Forester would be the right choice. If not, the Woodlander is probably sufficient. The Forager can go both ways, but it is a compromise.

As for feel ...

Joe Talmadge wrote:...the Hossom knives are outdoors knives, but not bushcraft knives the way the OP means.

They're not? Have you tried them, Joe? :)

Candidly, that didn't appear too stressful. Had he needed BOTH hands on the handle to pry those boards off the studs I might have worried a little bit. I don't recommend trying it, but it really does take some serious force to break a knife that way. The steel is 0.200" thick, and it remains above 0 ...

OK, I'm back basking in the warmth again. :)

I don't think the point is going to push through the end of the packaging because the insert grips the handle pretty firmly at the other end. It's probably just a matter of what shipping services can do, shipping services will do to a certain percentage ...

Just to add a couple stats. That knife weighs 16.9 oz. which for a knife that's 15-1/2" OAL isn't too bad. The steel is 0.200" thick. The edge is convexed like my customs. As far as I know, Spyderco is the first major knife company to produce a knife with that edge. In fact Spyderco has finished ...

Ah, there I am basking in the warmth of a favorable review and some great pix, when I'm suddenly undone by packaging and sheath issues. Heavy sigh... :o

MarkG, thanks for the post and great pix. They are welcome news to a new knife daddy. :)

I'm sure the packaging problems will get sorted out ...

In my experience with S30V, the issue of chipping is directly related to edge finish more than anything else. That's the reason you hear some people rave about it and others talk of chipping. There have been a great many posts of people experiencing initial problems with the steel which disappeared ...

Thanks, I'm glad you like it. As a new father (sort of) I'm anxious hear what people think of it. I appreciate the feedback.

When asked which of the 4 to get on his Forum on KF, Jerry Hossom responded

"It's really not an easy choice. Having both, I've thought about which I might take to the woods with me, and I haven't been able to decide without changing my mind a day later.

How's that for no help at all."
<snip ...

To simplify one comparison, the weight of the 5" (10-1/4" OAL) Dayhiker is 7.2 oz. The 9" Forester (15-1/4" OAL) is 16.9 oz. As to the others comparisons, opinions vary. :D


Edited to correct spelling.

I don't think acetone will etch steel. You'll need an acid. I use Ferric Chloride. Vinegar might work if left in the solution for awhile. You'll have to see what darkens it, then brush off the surface with some soft abrasive material like those nonwoven abrasive pads - finest you can find.

That ...

Butch, is that the same piece that had already rusted in your truck? If so the micropits from the previous rusting would accelerate it rusting again, because water would immediately collect in those pits. Of course if you ground all that off it wouldn't matter. That and the better finish may explain ...

3V is my favorite steel, bar none. It's toughness is remarkable. The edge it takes is amazing. I have had no problem with 3V rusting outside of the testing I've done and once when I left a blade in a moist environment for a couple months. Even then, the problem was confined to about 5 spots in one ...

Those isloated spots/pits are the oxide contaminents. Usually by the time you see one, there is a pit under it.

It really needs to get from high heat to under 1000F in about a minute or less or it won't fully harden. That's one of the reasons 3V got mixed reviews when it first came out - before quench plates. I don't know what effect that might have on corrosion resistance.

You may or may not be able to draw meaningful conclusions from this. 3V's corrosion resistance depends somewhat on how it was heat treated and how it is finished. To some extent it may also depend on when it was made. Recent (last couple years) batches have had less/fewer oxide contaminants that are ...