Spyderco Forums

I've been trying to get this last stand-off removed on my 15v Military 2 and it just isn't happening.



Any suggestions?

I've been at it forever. It won't come out. It's the only thing keeping me from installing my new micarta scales.

Wrap it with paper before grabbing it with pliers. Hold in place and then use the torx.

I have piano wire swaging pliers that are just right. I still use paper.

Henry - get both wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 25, 2025 5:53 pm

Wrap it with paper before grabbing it with pliers. Hold in place and then use the torx.

I have piano wire swaging pliers that are just right. I still use paper.

I wrapped it with a rubber band and literally held it down using pliers two handed with all my might as hard as I could while a second person used the torx driver.

Nothing.

Sigh.

I'm tired of giant gobs of permanent loc-tite making what would otherwise be a 10 minute routine operation take over an hour. And I'm not even finished with the scale swap.

Paper will work!

Henry - get both wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 25, 2025 6:00 pm

Paper will work!

tried it. won't budge.

Wild! I have never used heat. I had a Jade M4 Military that was uniquely tough though. IIRC it was a thing with that drop.

Get a heat gun, should soften up the lock tight.

Also, maybe a light impact might just jar it enough.

So, two methods to deal with loc-tite, unfortunately may also effect the G10, but brakleen can dissolve the thread lock if you can get it to penetrate. Or, holding the tip of a soldering iron into the hardware can heat and release the thread lock.

But too much of either could damage the G10 or any finishes on the hardware.

I usually tighten the other side down while the knife is still together and break it loose that way.

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 25, 2025 6:32 pm

I usually tighten the other side down while the knife is still together and break it loose that way.

Tried about 20 times. That usually works for me too.

SpeedHoles wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 25, 2025 6:26 pm

So, two methods to deal with loc-tite, unfortunately may also effect the G10, but brakleen can dissolve the thread lock if you can get it to penetrate. Or, holding the tip of a soldering iron into the hardware can heat and release the thread lock.

But too much of either could damage the G10 or any finishes on the hardware.

ill buy a soldering iron tomorrow if I can't get it.

vivi wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 25, 2025 6:44 pm

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 25, 2025 6:32 pm

I usually tighten the other side down while the knife is still together and break it loose that way.

Tried about 20 times. That usually works for me too.

KNIPEX Mini Model # 86 03 125 will fit in between the liners and grip the stand-off. Smooth jaw so I doubt they will damage the surface, but no guarantees. I cannot see these not doing the job.

sovereign wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 25, 2025 6:59 pm

vivi wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 25, 2025 6:44 pm

Evil D wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 25, 2025 6:32 pm

I usually tighten the other side down while the knife is still together and break it loose that way.

Tried about 20 times. That usually works for me too.

KNIPEX Mini Model # 86 03 125 will fit in between the liners and grip the stand-off. Smooth jaw so I doubt they will damage the surface, but no guarantees. I cannot see these not doing the job.

Smooth jaw Knipex are awesome to have around, have a couple sizes myself, but that force could still mar/deform, which wouldn't be good in the case of this part needed for lockup fitment.

No lock stick now? Maybe expect a chance of lock stick later after that, or further lockup travel, etc.



If I was closer I'd say borrow my soldering iron and give it a shot. But regardless, if you end up with one they are nice to have around for a variety of jobs.

vivi wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 25, 2025 6:52 pm

SpeedHoles wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 25, 2025 6:26 pm

So, two methods to deal with loc-tite, unfortunately may also effect the G10, but brakleen can dissolve the thread lock if you can get it to penetrate. Or, holding the tip of a soldering iron into the hardware can heat and release the thread lock.

But too much of either could damage the G10 or any finishes on the hardware.

ill buy a soldering iron tomorrow if I can't get it.

Yeah, my only thought was heat, so that seems like the way to go considering what you have tried so far. If heat doesn't work, then there probably isn't much that will break it loose short of more force. Maybe some penetrating oil, but I don't really expect that to work, because any threadlocker could keep the oil out.

If it is threadlocker that is the problem, maybe an ultrasonic cleaner like used for jewelry would break it loose. It should not cause any damage. Maybe a local jeweler would do it for little or no cost if they're not busy.

vivi wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 25, 2025 6:52 pm

SpeedHoles wrote: ↑

Tue Feb 25, 2025 6:26 pm

So, two methods to deal with loc-tite, unfortunately may also effect the G10, but brakleen can dissolve the thread lock if you can get it to penetrate. Or, holding the tip of a soldering iron into the hardware can heat and release the thread lock.

But too much of either could damage the G10 or any finishes on the hardware.

ill buy a soldering iron tomorrow if I can't get it.

This is the way. Soldering iron will work.

If the little wrench in my Wiha kit doesn't get it done...



Then the big screwdriver in this Proto kit will do it or I call out the big T handle and then it's either break free or get drilled out.

Really just need the tip of a good solder gun to heat the stand-off part with where your at. Spyderco uses the blue, so the solder gun heat and then grab with your pliers and I use leather to wrap it.

You will get this off straight away you get some heat on it, then hold the backup and get your torx bit after the screw.

Ended up getting it with the help of some heat. Thanks for the suggestions.

Only problem is I already want to take it apart again,lol. Looking at the scales I don't think I dyed them long enough....they look a little splotchy.

I'll throw up some photos later.

Vivi,

That is a pain, use more vinegar and less water with the dye.