Spyderco Forums

Evil D wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 03, 2021 2:55 am

Bill1170 wrote: ↑

Wed Sep 01, 2021 10:01 pm

I decided to reprofile my SE Endela to 15 degrees on the scallops. I’m using the CBN rods, same ones I used to reprofile my saber-ground SE Endura. I’m almost to the apex everywhere, just missing a tiny bit in the three large scallops closest to the handle.

Unlike the Endura, the serration pattern on the FFG Endela still looks good. The bevel is about twice as tall as factory, whereas the bevel on the SG Endura got to be 3 times as tall as factory by the time I reached the apex, and the serrations became extremely wavy and poorly defined on the thicker Endura blade.

When first starting out reprofiling a Spyderedge to a more acute bevel angle, progress comes rapidly because you’re just grinding away the shoulder line where the tops of the serrations meet the primary bevel. As work proceeds, progress becomes increasingly slow because the band of steel being removed grows steadily wider. Towards the end it takes hundreds of strokes to eliminate a 0.3 mm area near the apex that’s still at the ~20 degrees factory grind. My unaided eye can’t even see if I’m at the apex, even with Sharpie marking, so I try to push cut paper in the big scallops. Apexed scallops do it easily. Ones that won’t push cut require more grinding. I’m very close now, and am wondering if I’ll keep the “hungry” coarse finish off the CBN rods or if I’ll refine it with the ceramic rods.

That last little fraction of bevel is always the most tedious part, I have my Caribbean and Autonomy sitting on my desk right now because I've had to move on to other stuff before making it all the way. The good news is this process doesn't need done very often, especially if you make it a routine to go back to the 30 slots and remove any micro bevel you develop through touch ups. I'm admittedly really bad with this and my micro bevels end up anything but "micro", so I end up with all my knives needing reprofiled after a while. I need to just make it a routine to drop back to the 30s maybe every other sharpening so I'm never spending too much time with it.


It's sort of a fun problem to have for me because it does force me to change up my EDC, which is another thing I'm terrible at doing. Lately I've been using my rhinoplasty Stretch a lot and it's actually very refreshing. Lately I've sort of been in a slump with the hobby and I think maybe part of that is because I tend to stick with the same knife for long periods.

Sonorum wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 10, 2021 11:56 am

I recently bought a Salt 2 Wharncliffe in LC200n and I have to say that I was a bit disappointed at first. Coming from the Endela SE which had shallow serrations to the Salt which is way pointier ones was not satisfying. I have now sharpened down the tips which took quite a while with the regular dark sharpmaker rods and it is finally really good. Sucks to have to put in a lot of time to get it working good.

dsvirsky wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 10, 2021 1:01 pm

Guess it all depends on what you're using it for. I found the Salt 2 wharncliffe LC200N worked quite well for me, right out of the box, but I use it mostly for breaking down boxes and cutting up milk cartons (so they don't take up room in the trash).

Wartstein wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 06, 2021 3:38 am

Sonorum wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 10, 2021 11:56 am

I recently bought a Salt 2 Wharncliffe in LC200n and I have to say that I was a bit disappointed at first. Coming from the Endela SE which had shallow serrations to the Salt which is way pointier ones was not satisfying. I have now sharpened down the tips which took quite a while with the regular dark sharpmaker rods and it is finally really good. Sucks to have to put in a lot of time to get it working good.

Same here (though I generally love the little green Salt SE).
Hard to beat the particular Endela serrations, probably only the Caribbean is even better (from what I read and saw), and the Salt serrations are really more aggressive and pointier
...and I have yet to make them less pointy. How long did it take you? And did you use the brown rods on purpose or cause you don´t own CBN/diamond rods?

Wartstein wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 06, 2021 3:40 am

dsvirsky wrote: ↑

Fri Sep 10, 2021 1:01 pm

Guess it all depends on what you're using it for. I found the Salt 2 wharncliffe LC200N worked quite well for me, right out of the box, but I use it mostly for breaking down boxes and cutting up milk cartons (so they don't take up room in the trash).

The Salt 2 SE is really good (I own the "regular" one, not the wharnie).

But did you ever try shallower serrations, like on the Endela SE? In my experience they work even better on stuff like cardboard, cause they don´t tend to snag, while the pointier can do so a bit.

Wartstein wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 06, 2021 3:40 am

The Salt 2 SE is really good (I own the "regular" one, not the wharnie).

But did you ever try shallower serrations, like on the Endela SE? In my experience they work even better on stuff like cardboard, cause they don´t tend to snag, while the pointier can do so a bit.

dsvirsky wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 06, 2021 6:57 am

Wartstein wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 06, 2021 3:40 am

...

Yes, I also own an Endela and I find it works well on cardboard, although I'd be hard pressed to say whether it's the blade shape or the shallower serrations that allow it to work well. The way I like to slice cardboard, if the knife isn't a wharncliffe, I want lots of belly. My favorite SE knife for cutting cardboard is the PM3 LW (I also prefer Golden serrations to the ones from Seki).

defenestrate wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 06, 2021 5:44 pm

Er... is imgur blocked? I didn't see that anywhere and I pasted the link in the last comment.

Added the link instead, should work.

Ramonade wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 08, 2021 12:00 pm

Why did I read this thread?
I am now sold on the idea that my next knife (Spyderco obviously) will be in SE configuration.
Now, it is the model that is gonna be important... Endela, Para 3 LW, another of my beloved Native 5s in a new steel, or something else entirely?

I would even be more enclined towards a tough steel, so i could use it on dining plates without worrying too much, the points would get dull but the scallops won't !

Sonorum wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 08, 2021 1:27 pm

Ramonade wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 08, 2021 12:00 pm

Why did I read this thread?
I am now sold on the idea that my next knife (Spyderco obviously) will be in SE configuration.
Now, it is the model that is gonna be important... Endela, Para 3 LW, another of my beloved Native 5s in a new steel, or something else entirely?

I would even be more enclined towards a tough steel, so i could use it on dining plates without worrying too much, the points would get dull but the scallops won't !

The Endela seems to be widely regarded as a very good fully SE knife that's ready to cut from the start. Can't go wrong with it!

Ramonade wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 08, 2021 3:19 pm

Sonorum wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 08, 2021 1:27 pm

Ramonade wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 08, 2021 12:00 pm

Why did I read this thread?
I am now sold on the idea that my next knife (Spyderco obviously) will be in SE configuration.
Now, it is the model that is gonna be important... Endela, Para 3 LW, another of my beloved Native 5s in a new steel, or something else entirely?

I would even be more enclined towards a tough steel, so i could use it on dining plates without worrying too much, the points would get dull but the scallops won't !

The Endela seems to be widely regarded as a very good fully SE knife that's ready to cut from the start. Can't go wrong with it!

Seems that way... And then I'll be able to go talk about how this name is weird with y'all !
As weird as it sound, I do not own any Delica/Endela/Endura and am pretty sur I am missing something considering how much of a staple knife each of 'em is.

Sonorum wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 09, 2021 2:55 am

Its wonderfully average, I think it fits most hands very well. Do you have a sharpmaker? It is essential in the "spyder edge experience"