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Cleaning Blades???

Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 11:17 am
by Gollum
Just wondering how others clean their blades. Sticky stuff like what you get on them from yardwork or cutting through tape on boxes. I use rubbing alcohol, just wondering if anybody knows if that would be harmful to a blade?
Thanks in advance!

Cleaning solvents

Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 11:34 am
by JD Spydo
Gollum wrote:Just wondering how others clean their blades. Sticky stuff like what you get on them from yardwork or cutting through tape on boxes. I use rubbing alcohol, just wondering if anybody knows if that would be harmful to a blade?
Thanks in advance!
Rubbing Alcohol is what I do 90% of my blade cleaning with. However there is a little hint that will help a lot. When you go to one of your major drug stores to get your rubbing alcohol don't get the 70% Isopropyl ask the clerk to show you the 91% Isopropyl alcohol. I find that the 91% does solvenate considerably better.

I have also used Starting Fluid that you can buy at most auto parts stores, hardware stores or farm stores. The "Starting Fluid from what I am told is nothing more than Ether. The same Ether that Anethesiologists used to put people under with many years ago. But none the less it is a great solvent especially wanting to degrease something.

Now if you got a terribly stubborn cleaning chore you can always try Carbuerator Cleaner. But definitely use rubber gloves dealing with it because it is very harsh to your skin. I have only had to use Carbuerator Cleaner a couple of times and both times it worked successfully.

Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 11:37 am
by ceya
Rubbing Alcohol 100% and Gunk Silione spray.

S/F<
CEYA!

Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 12:32 pm
by Native Justice
Good 'ole lighter fluid! Evaporates on contact and takes the gunk with it. :D

Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 12:33 pm
by Mr Blonde
Warm water, soap and a good brush takes care of 90% of all my blade cleaning. For getting rid of glue/tape on the blade, lighter fluid works best for me.


Wouter

Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 1:08 pm
by Zac
I used to own a car care compnay and the best thing for metal is Nevr Dull. I've tried hundreds of different methods and this stuff removes anything.

edit: I should also add that 3M Adhesive and Wax remover works well too; but I wouldn't use it in a non-ventilated area.

Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 1:13 pm
by severedthumbs
I havent got anything on my blade yet that wd40 won't remove.

Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 7:06 pm
by smcfalls13
If you want a completely dry method, try microfiber cloths. They remove pretty much everything.

Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 9:31 pm
by Fred Sanford
Warm water and soap for dirt and stuff.

Nail polish remover for adhesive stuff.

Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 9:43 pm
by wec12
For sticky stuff, I use warm water with soap first then use just a little bit of light fuel. It works great.

Posted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 10:01 pm
by vampyrewolf
lets see... what have I used over the years....

zippo fluid
wd-40
goo-gone
mr clean magic eraser
dish soap and hot water
ride through the dishwasher (this one worked great when I washed dishes for a living, just send it through and it's dry minutes after coming out)
brake cleaner

Polishing cloths

Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 6:24 am
by JD Spydo
smcfalls13 wrote:If you want a completely dry method, try microfiber cloths. They remove pretty much everything.
Scott makes a great point with the "microfiber" polishing cloths. Flitz makes a really great one. I have been using my Flitz Polishing Cloth for 3 years now and it shows no signs of wearing out yet. Also there is a great polishing cloth put out by the 3M company too.

I really like using the polishing cloth along with non abrasive polishes like Flitz & Knorrostol.

However when I am using Alcohol or other solvents I find a cotton cloth to be quite all right for that. For extremely stubborn removals there is also laquer thinner & acetone. But definitely use gloves with those 2 solvents because they are transdermal, flamable and omit potentially dangerous fumes.

Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 1:12 pm
by gud4u
Any product with xylene (Oops!, Goof-Off, etc.) quickly remove tape adhesive, tree sap, etc.

I don't use this stuff indoors.

Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 2:09 pm
by jerseybounce_42
You folks might want to look at the MDS for the materials you use for cleaning. Xylene is nasty stuff and benzene / naphtha is generally recognized as a carcinogen. Ethyl alcohol doesn't stink as bad a isopropryl. Alcohol attacks some plastics. Nitrile rubber gloves seem to resist petroleum products better than most other commonly available gloves. Has anybody tried using turpentine for wood sap or Go-Jo to remove grease?

Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 2:27 pm
by jerseybounce_42
I’da thunk a green company like Spyderco (the people that include EARTH in their Golden, Colorado location of manufacture) would include, in their product packaging, some Earth and product friendly tips about the care and maintenance of their products. Can I get me a hunting license here?

Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 3:12 pm
by Zwaplat
Any organic solvent will do to rid your knives of sticky gunk. Rubbing alcohol, ether, lighter fluid (which is just some kind of petrol, iirc), nail polish remover (acetone). None of these are corrosive, they just evaporate very quickly (fumes) and combust with the slightest spark.
And yes, they're not all very kind to nature, but we're talking trace amounts here (a few drops on a piece of cotton will do), so no point in going berserk on that. And most, if not all, of them are natural byproducts anyway. :rolleyes:

Just ventilate well and keep flame sources far away. And don't eat or drink of course. Which accounts for work with any kind of chemical anyway.

Posted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 9:55 pm
by jaislandboy
Vegetable oil or GoJo......the water content of rubbing alcohol doesn't work as well for me...

Posted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 2:23 pm
by SpyderNoir_JHA
[quote="Zac"]I used to own a car care compnay and the best thing for metal is Nevr Dull. I've tried hundreds of different methods and this stuff removes anything.

edit: I should also add that 3M Adhesive and Wax remover works well too]

I'll second the Nevr Dull suggestion. I worked at a local knife store for a few years (R.I.P. CK&T) and every so often customers would bring in truly neglected blades and beg us to put them in working order. Nevr Dull and the Sharpmaker always did the trick.

Dish detergent & olive oil.

Posted: Mon Oct 02, 2006 6:09 pm
by Karen
I often use my endura and now native to cut meat and veggies. So I never put anything toxic on mine. I just use dish detergent to clean, and lube with pure olive oil. I always prefered to use my endura to cut steak in resturants. The SE blade is superior to any steak knife they offer. Plus, I like the looks and comments when people see my knife. :D

karen

Posted: Tue Oct 03, 2006 10:00 am
by spydutch
Just plain ol' Zippo fluid for me ;)