Spyderco Forums

aaronkb wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 04, 2019 10:17 am

Honestly I’m sure I could learn to sharpen SE but I’d have to buy a different sharpening system and I’d much rather focus on improving my sharpening skills with stones. I think the plain edge just gives me more enjoyment, however practical serrations may be.

Since you´re very new to this forum and I really like your contributions and thoughts (though often different to mine ) so far, I may provide the link to this great thread by David here, should you have missed it
As a matter of fact: It just HAD to be linked in a "spyderegde-thread" anyway

viewtopic.php?t=84985

It really gives a deeper insight into serrations, even if it might not convince you or others to try them out. But SHOULD you choose to do so, just from my limited experience I´d go for rather shallow, not too agressive ones. To see what I mean: Just look at the second pic in Davids thread, where the Carribean serrations get compared to the Military serrations. I think his conclusion is that the former work better for most tasks, and that is also my - again, very limited, but still- experience.

I´d strongly recommend the Endela SE should you or others ever choose to try out great serrations, it´s quite unexpensive, but works amazingly well.
But since I know you don´t like backlocks, the serrations that look closest to the Endelas are the Caribbean ones (maybe also the Tenacious serrations? But just from depictions they look a bit more agressive).

Prior to Endela SE and Pac Salt SE I knew serrations only from my Delica and Endura combo edge (and some leathermans or cheaper knives). Did not like them particullary,mostly for making fine feather sticks
Pac Salt Se and especially Endela SE really changed my mind. So far there is really no task where I had the wish for a plain edge, or where the short plain edge sections towards the tips of the knives would not have been sufficient.

Concerning sharpening SE on stones I can´t contribute anything .
Just, that if you have a sharpmaker and like to use ist it´s easy. but that´s not freehand on stones of course

Can a Serrated Spyderedge saw through bone? (Like for field dressing deer).

Haunted House wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 06, 2019 3:30 pm

Can a Serrated Spyderedge saw through bone? (Like for field dressing deer).

Can´t try, no bones at home at the moment (except my own... :D )
But I´d say: NOT like a saw, but better than a plain edge.

Surfingringo wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 05, 2019 5:45 am

Rutger wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 05, 2019 5:10 am

The thing that bugs me with a serrated edge is that when you sharpen them on the corner of a stone (or the sharpmaker) you are slowly going to round off your pointy teeth...

Exactly. And as that happens the knife begins to perform better, not worse. There are VERY few tasks that respond better to very pointy serrations vs. those that have been rounded a bit. Just my observations from using them for years on the kayak. I perform a number of tasks (like cutting through heavy gills or cartilage in tight quarters) that are much easier and safer with serrations but even in those tasks a brand new Spydie with very pointy serrations will tend to snag too much and not perform as well as one that has tips with a bit more rounding. And as far as longevity of the tips, I have an old Pacific Salt that has been sharpened HUNDREDS of times on the Sharpmaker and still has perfectly functional teeth.

My experience is the same. Sal even weighed in (on an older thread) that he agrees the performance improves after some rounding from the Sharpmaker.

(Edited to clarify that Sal’s post was on an older thread.)

Haunted House wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 06, 2019 3:30 pm

Can a Serrated Spyderedge saw through bone? (Like for field dressing deer).

Serrations don’t really cut like a saw, they work more like a super sharp and aggressive plain edge sharpened on a very low grit stone. If you are sawing through bones larger than a matchstick then the most likely result you will see is damaged serrations.

Haunted House wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 06, 2019 3:30 pm

Can a Serrated Spyderedge saw through bone? (Like for field dressing deer).

I don’t think it could saw through one but it could be used to break the pelvis, just like any other knife if you’ve done it enough times. (This is regarding dressing a whitetail)

I would avoid bone personally, and I've already done a lot of stupid knife tricks with SE. It would make short work of tendon and such but I'd still bring a saw for bones. Serrations are still a series of edges that are all in a straight line whereas a saw's teeth cut and scrape material away with each tooth. It's a very different type of cutting.

Evil D wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 07, 2019 6:46 am

I would avoid bone personally, and I've already done a lot of stupid knife tricks with SE. It would make short work of tendon and such but I'd still bring a saw for bones. Serrations are still a series of edges that are all in a straight line whereas a saw's teeth cut and scrape material away with each tooth. It's a very different type of cutting.

Bone can be crazy-hard,especially old and dry one

I am not a hunter at all, but once while sitting in some mountain camp I tried to carve a little figurine out of an old mountain-goat-bone.
Snapped the tip off of a rather stout N690 fixed blade...

Haunted House wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 06, 2019 3:30 pm

Can a Serrated Spyderedge saw through bone? (Like for field dressing deer).

That's one application that Spyderco's Japan made Spyderedged units do excel at. Because about 3 years ago we were doing a field dress of a deer and the "spikey" Japan made Spyder I had on me at the time did work as a makeshift meat/bone saw. And yes it did work much better than any serrated blade I ever used that had a more rounded/wavy type of serration pattern.

Which tells me that each serration pattern regardless of whether or not it is spikey or pointy >> or if it's a more curved/wavy type serration has cutting jobs that they excel in.

This is why I've tried to start thread exploring the different types of serration patterns only to have them die off early. I hope that changes soon.

Just sharpened my Pac Salt SE with the method Vivi shows in his vid (https://youtu.be/Ptmx1iJELhU) once more.

I just wanted to say again: It´s amazing how easy and fast this works, at least with H1 (and VG10)
Just a remark: On my particular Pac Salt I have to use the 20 degree setting (or would have to regrind the knife, but it cuts just great as it is), while Vivi uses the 15 degrees I think.

I´d go so far as to say: Anyone who has a Sharpmaker should pair it with at least one spyderedged knife. You´re missing something if you don´t imho...

There is a good reason why surgical scalpels are not serrated, let alone Spyderedged.

But that good reason does not mean SE blades are poorer than PE at other things: they may even be better. Thanks especially to Vivi, Lance, and EvilD, who here doesn’t get that?

Misunderstanding? I think not. Some folks see plain-edge as just simpler to maintain, or more pleasing to the eye. I’m in the latter group, yet I still have seven different Spyderedged models.

Right on, thanks for the replies guys. I’ve been carrying a Leatherman Surge and using the saw blade in it to saw the sternum/ribs. Works fine but it’s heavy(and that weight adds up in the backcountry, elevation or when carrying out a deer by myself).

I figured it wouldn’t be ideal for sawing bone, just thought I’d check. It would be cool carrying a small light Spyderco “bonesaw”.
Come to think of it... that’s not a bad idea for a new Spyderco model. :spyder:

JD Spydo wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 07, 2019 9:44 am

Haunted House wrote: ↑

Wed Nov 06, 2019 3:30 pm

Can a Serrated Spyderedge saw through bone? (Like for field dressing deer).

That's one application that Spyderco's Japan made Spyderedged units do excel at. Because about 3 years ago we were doing a field dress of a deer and the "spikey" Japan made Spyder I had on me at the time did work as a makeshift meat/bone saw. And yes it did work much better than any serrated blade I ever used that had a more rounded/wavy type of serration pattern.

Which tells me that each serration pattern regardless of whether or not it is spikey or pointy >> or if it's a more curved/wavy type serration has cutting jobs that they excel in.

This is why I've tried to start thread exploring the different types of serration patterns only to have them die off early. I hope that changes soon.

There are serration types that I don’t like, but mostly from other companies. The serration patterns that I have liked, besides Spyderco’s, include Victorinox and those on the David Boye serrated sheepsfoot boat knife.

Jim

Haunted House wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 07, 2019 12:57 pm

....

I figured it wouldn’t be ideal for sawing bone, just thought I’d check. It would be cool carrying a small light Spyderco “bonesaw”.
Come to think of it... that’s not a bad idea for a new Spyderco model. :spyder:

I started a poll once about a Dyad featuring a saw.
See here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=82630

And there actually IS (or was) a Spydersaw...

Added to my post above: Spydersaw. Very light...Discontinued unfortunately

https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/detail ... yderSaw/51

Wartstein wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 07, 2019 2:14 pm

Added to my post above: Spydersaw. Very light...Discontinued unfortunately

https://www.spyderco.com/catalog/detail ... yderSaw/51

Now that is something I would be interested in. Once used the saw on a leatherman wave to clear a couple downed smaller trees/limbs while on a forest road in a 2wd truck. Was helping a buddy move some items across a couple states, and he wanted to take a shorter route to save time. We were both impressed with what we accomplished with that short saw. I try to take a pruning saw anytime taking longer rides on unknown routes now. Especially if using back roads/forest service roads.

I didn't think the edge would benefit from the reduced teeth of sharpening. I'm not too experienced with serrations, so thanks for your insights Lance and Vivi. Think i'll have to look into getting some serrated blade for my edc in the future. I'm not totally sold on the H1 steel yet though. Think i'd rather look for some SE LC200N blade. Really like that stuff in the PE knife that i got.

Haunted House wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 07, 2019 12:57 pm

Right on, thanks for the replies guys. I’ve been carrying a Leatherman Surge and using the saw blade in it to saw the sternum/ribs. Works fine but it’s heavy(and that weight adds up in the backcountry, elevation or when carrying out a deer by myself).

I figured it wouldn’t be ideal for sawing bone, just thought I’d check. It would be cool carrying a small light Spyderco “bonesaw”.
Come to think of it... that’s not a bad idea for a new Spyderco model. :spyder:

In my experience Victorinox make the best pocket knife saws available. I have no doubt that the saw on my Spirit multitool would cut through any bone on any animal, even though a dedicated full size saw is probably a smarter and more efficient choice.

Anyone else think they'd prefer the serrations on the other side? I'm right handed and it feels wrong having the flat side of the knife to the right.

Rutger wrote: ↑

Fri Nov 08, 2019 7:08 am

I didn't think the edge would benefit from the reduced teeth of sharpening. I'm not too experienced with serrations, so thanks for your insights Lance and Vivi. Think i'll have to look into getting some serrated blade for my edc in the future. I'm not totally sold on the H1 steel yet though. Think i'd rather look for some SE LC200N blade. Really like that stuff in the PE knife that i got.

I'm sure there are materials that would benefit from sharper pointy serration teeth, but so far in two years of carrying only SE as my EDC I haven't encountered anything that my knives have struggled to cut. Rounder tips reduce snagging and ripping but don't seem to reduce how aggressive serrations cut. For me it has been the perfect middle ground between SE and PE.