Spyderco Forums

vivi wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 21, 2025 6:50 pm

u.w. wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 21, 2025 6:16 pm

LOL!

u.w.

fun thing to play around with if you want a challenge lol. rotating circular blade. ground a new edge with the 200 grit side, refined on 400 grit, then polished on my medium ceramic bench stone.

Cutting much better now.

When sharpening rotating circular blades like a pizza cutter, I will either tape the blade along the body and pivot, a few strips of tape, about 1/2" away from the edge bevel to keep it from rotating, or just hold it by the blade and let the handle flop around. Then I will use a small pocket stone, Spyderco TriAngle Rod, or DMT DiaFold or the DMT 3-in. Dia-Sharp Credit Card Sharpener to sharpen. It really makes a difference when pizza cutters like this are sharp when using them.

Brock O Lee wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 18, 2025 4:32 pm

Eventually I got around to reprofile the Shaman.

I must say, one of the standout features of CPM-15V is its ease of sharpening and deburring.

That is most likely from the work @Deadboxhero did in getting the Heat Treatment right. I knife with a finally tuned HT or even a decent one makes sharpening a lot easier. There is some 420J2/3Cr13 and 440A that are extremely hard to sharpen given poor HT. Another example is when Kershaw released a knife probably 10-15 years ago, with an ideal steal for a pocket knife to sharpen to a high sharpness, AEB-L/13C26, but the HT they did on it not only made the edge retention not good, the steel was gummy so sharpening it was a huge hassle.

I got to re-sharpen my Gyuto yesterday for the first time in a while. I sharpen in the back of my garage, which also happens to be where the two cats sleep at night. Well, they got fleas and that kept me out of the room for a couple weeks right around when my gyuto needed to be re-sharpened. Got my spot back now!

This edge was done first on a medium grit Cerax water stone, followed by a fine Naniwa waterstone. I tried to get a good picture of the edge but it isn't the best. This passes all the basic tests, shaves hair, slips through paper towel, and cuts actual food too.

I just put a new edge on my S90V PM2 with my trusty Harbor Freight 4 sided diamond block. I'm very pleased with the result. This sharpening block is the best $12 I've spent in a long time

8th_Note wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 25, 2025 3:33 pm

I just put a new edge on my S90V PM2 with my trusty Harbor Freight 4 sided diamond block. I'm very pleased with the result. This sharpening block is the best $12 I've spent in a long time

Looks pretty good, catching on! Just have to keep that tip down on that left side to even out the bevel.

At the recommendation of @vivi, I dropped my VG-10 Delica wharny down the lowest setting on my Edge Pro, which is around 10-11dps.

One of the widest (and ugliest?) bevels I've seen. Hopefully the performance is worth it.

I finished with a Shapton Glass 2k this time, but will try something more coarse next go round to see how it compares.

ejames13 wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 26, 2025 9:20 am

At the recommendation of @vivi, I dropped my VG-10 Delica wharny down the lowest setting on my Edge Pro, which is around 10-11dps.

One of the widest (and ugliest?) bevels I've seen. Hopefully the performance is worth it.

I finished with a Shapton Glass 2k this time, but will try something more coarse next go round to see how it compares.

I love a wide bevel. It's like a wide set of tires on a sports car.

8th_Note wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 26, 2025 10:56 am

I love a wide bevel. It's like a wide set of tires on a sports car.

Shut up! I hate a wide bevel!
Now that you put it in that perspective, I might have to revisit my angles.

RustyIron wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 26, 2025 11:13 am

8th_Note wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 26, 2025 10:56 am

I love a wide bevel. It's like a wide set of tires on a sports car.

Shut up! I hate a wide bevel!
Now that you put it in that perspective, I might have to revisit my angles.

8th_Note wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 26, 2025 10:56 am

I love a wide bevel. It's like a wide set of tires on a sports car.

Same! The aesthetics of performance are undeniable and irresistible for me after cutting with several knives I’ve sharpened down to this acute geometry. Looks like a varsity jersey to me

ejames13 wrote: ↑

Thu Jun 26, 2025 9:20 am

At the recommendation of @vivi, I dropped my VG-10 Delica wharny down the lowest setting on my Edge Pro, which is around 10-11dps.

One of the widest (and ugliest?) bevels I've seen. Hopefully the performance is worth it.

I finished with a Shapton Glass 2k this time, but will try something more coarse next go round to see how it compares.

You could have it reground, then it would have a smaller edge bevel and cut better because it would be thinner behind the edge. I regrind my knives after a little bit of learning how to by being taught by my ex-knifemaker friend, Kyley Harris. I am glad I learned how to, it has my knives looking better and cutting better. A Harbor Freight 1x30" and some belts from someone like Curry Customs in Hawaii, and you'd be all set. If my skills were good enough to do other people's knives, I'd offer to regrind it for you, but I don't think they are up to the task. I am sure someone has to be doing knife regrinds, kind of like how Tom Krein used to do regrinds.

Condor mountain pass camp knife.

It has a handle that melts in my hand, but came with a very thick edge....25+ dps, and not a very keen apex either.

hogged off some steel with my belt sander then cleaned it up on a coarse diamond plate. 20dps microbevel.










Gonna need some more work later on but this at least makes it useable for some testing.

jasonstone20 wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 25, 2025 10:59 am

vivi wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 21, 2025 6:50 pm

u.w. wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 21, 2025 6:16 pm

LOL!

u.w.

fun thing to play around with if you want a challenge lol. rotating circular blade. ground a new edge with the 200 grit side, refined on 400 grit, then polished on my medium ceramic bench stone.

Cutting much better now.

When sharpening rotating circular blades like a pizza cutter, I will either tape the blade along the body and pivot, a few strips of tape, about 1/2" away from the edge bevel to keep it from rotating, or just hold it by the blade and let the handle flop around. Then I will use a small pocket stone, Spyderco TriAngle Rod, or DMT DiaFold or the DMT 3-in. Dia-Sharp Credit Card Sharpener to sharpen. It really makes a difference when pizza cutters like this are sharp when using them.

I definitely appreciate the input from both of you.
If I had a pizza cutter, I would definitely sharpen it, as I do almost all (maybe all) bladed things I own. Shovels work WAY better once sharpened, etc...
I don't own a rotary pizza cutter though. It's so rare that I'd ever find myself eating or cutting up pizza too. I think it's been over a decade in fact. I'd usually just tear a piece off though, when I ate it in the past. Heck, it wasn't uncommon for me to tear off two pieces, fold the tops of each into each other and happily eat that double decker slice of pizza!

I am a little temped though, to get one (a rotary pizza cutter), just to sharpen the blade, lol.

u.w.

u.w. wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 02, 2025 2:12 pm

jasonstone20 wrote: ↑

Wed Jun 25, 2025 10:59 am

vivi wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 21, 2025 6:50 pm

u.w. wrote: ↑

Sat Jun 21, 2025 6:16 pm

LOL!

u.w.

fun thing to play around with if you want a challenge lol. rotating circular blade. ground a new edge with the 200 grit side, refined on 400 grit, then polished on my medium ceramic bench stone.

Cutting much better now.

When sharpening rotating circular blades like a pizza cutter, I will either tape the blade along the body and pivot, a few strips of tape, about 1/2" away from the edge bevel to keep it from rotating, or just hold it by the blade and let the handle flop around. Then I will use a small pocket stone, Spyderco TriAngle Rod, or DMT DiaFold or the DMT 3-in. Dia-Sharp Credit Card Sharpener to sharpen. It really makes a difference when pizza cutters like this are sharp when using them.

I definitely appreciate the input from both of you.
If I had a pizza cutter, I would definitely sharpen it, as I do almost all (maybe all) bladed things I own. Shovels work WAY better once sharpened, etc...
I don't own a rotary pizza cutter though. It's so rare that I'd ever find myself eating or cutting up pizza too. I think it's been over a decade in fact. I'd usually just tear a piece off though, when I ate it in the past. Heck, it wasn't uncommon for me to tear off two pieces, fold the tops of each into each other and happily eat that double decker slice of pizza!

I am a little temped though, to get one (a rotary pizza cutter), just to sharpen the blade, lol.

u.w.

I first saw a non-wheeled pizza cutter at the local pizza shop on the corner of a new neighborhood I moved into when I was 16 in 1990. "American Dream Pizza" it was called. Not sure if it is still open, but they used a long, double-handled pizza cutting blade that was about the length of a table-top paper cutter blade:

vivi wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 02, 2025 11:53 am

Condor mountain pass camp knife.

It has a handle that melts in my hand, but came with a very thick edge....25+ dps, and not a very keen apex either.

hogged off some steel with my belt sander then cleaned it up on a coarse diamond plate. 20dps microbevel.


Gonna need some more work later on but this at least makes it useable for some testing.

Nice work, vivi!! Very cleanly done! You fixed the heel of the edge at the plunge-grind also, that isn't exactly an easy thing to do, and it looks now like it should have left the factory. Man that blade was thick behind the edge, which to me is odd since it looks to be a shallow height hollow grind. Now that I think of it, my Old Hickory 7" Butcher knife came in a similar state, along with a burr the whole length of the blade edge. I didn't have any power equipment when I got that knife 10+ years ago, and I thinned it and put a decent edge on it by hand, and it took longer than I would have liked. One of the best things I ever bought was not only the Tormek T-4, which is no an inexpensive piece of gear, but also the Harbo Freight 1x30" belt grinder, along with some good belts from 3M and Norton, suitable for knife sharpening, edge-bevel re-grinding, and also regrinding the whole blade to thin it out behind the edge. Not sure how much they cost now with how inflation was the last few years, but I got mine in about 2020 for $60USD on sale. I always grind wet, I feel that is the only way to go for tempered knife steel and blades.

I worked on getting rid of the little unsharpened portion on my Endura last sharpening session. Free handed on a 140 grit plate. I went pretty slow 'cause I didn't want to mess it up, so I didn't quite get it ground level with the edge. Hopefully next session I'll finish it off.

looks good!

I like using this small worksharp diamond sharpener for fixing that area:



I knock off the problem area with the diamond part, then blend it in on a full sized plate.

That little bit at the heel of the blade is tricky. I’ve noticed lots of new knives have it ground thicker there. I like that there is no sharpening notch but it can be hard to smooth it out without damaging it

Dropped the angle on my Manix Salt. No clue what the exact angle is since it's freehand, but probably 12-13dps.
-400gr vitrified to set the edge
-1000gr vitrified deburr only
-couple passes each of 8, 3, 1um diamond paste on leather

The 400gr vitrified stone I have doesn't leave quite as crisp an edge as my 400gr Atoma, but it certainly moves steel way faster.

Guts wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 09, 2025 1:01 pm

Dropped the angle on my Manix Salt. No clue what the exact angle is since it's freehand, but probably 12-13dps.
-400gr vitrified to set the edge
-1000gr vitrified deburr only
-couple passes each of 8, 3, 1um diamond paste on leather

The 400gr vitrified stone I have doesn't leave quite as crisp an edge as my 400gr Atoma, but it certainly moves steel way faster.

Beautiful.