Spyderco Forums

You can. Don't know who can do it. Wouldn't mind a FFG SE Pacific Salt myself.

TriggerThumb wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 04, 2018 9:29 pm

My main desire is a (sheepsfoot or wharncliffe) serrated with ffg. Could I get an Atlantic regrinded (reground?) into ffg? I'm not super knowledgeable so idk if there would be caveats. Also, know anyone that would do it?

It can be done, it's a bit trickier with serrations but I would imagine it's still possible. I'd contact Big Chris and see what he can do. He's done a couple regrinds for me and does great work.
http://www.bigchriscustomknives.com/

Evil D wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 05, 2018 6:16 am

TriggerThumb wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 04, 2018 9:29 pm

My main desire is a (sheepsfoot or wharncliffe) serrated with ffg. Could I get an Atlantic regrinded (reground?) into ffg? I'm not super knowledgeable so idk if there would be caveats. Also, know anyone that would do it?

It can be done, it's a bit trickier with serrations but I would imagine it's still possible. I'd contact Big Chris and see what he can do. He's done a couple regrinds for me and does great work.
http://www.bigchriscustomknives.com/

Thank you ill be looking into this!

I tend to agree with you on this. If I were a dealer and could design my own line of exclusives from the ground up with no limitations, it would be a line of Golden-made H1 Salts with Transluscent Day-Glow Yellow G10 scales. I'd offer each model in PE and SE with Satin and DLC options. Millie, PM2, Para 3, Manix 2, Native, Shaman, Lil Native. This is my Spyderco dream family. :)

steelcity16 wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 05, 2018 8:50 am

I tend to agree with you on this. If I were a dealer and could design my own line of exclusives from the ground up with no limitations, it would be a line of Golden-made H1 Salts with Transluscent Day-Glow Yellow G10 scales. I'd offer each model in PE and SE with Satin and DLC options. Millie, PM2, Para 3, Manix 2, Native, Shaman, Lil Native. This is my Spyderco dream family. :)

I like your ideas!

This thread is making me want another Pacific Salt. What do you all think? Does it too that for you as well?

SpyderEdgeForever wrote: ↑

Mon Mar 05, 2018 8:03 pm

This thread is making me want another Pacific Salt. What do you all think? Does it too that for you as well?

Yes. Love the ergos of the Pac Salt and I'm looking forward to seeing it in LC200N before the change to the E4 handle.

Bumping this thread because I am a firm believer that H1 is the perfect EDC steel....for me anyway. 9 months of continuous D'FLy Salt in serrated edge carry, typically in my waistband. Took mulitple tries before I really "got it", but now that I do I couldn't be more pleased. Serrated edge has me hooked as well and every time I try a plain edge knife it tends to get sold off really quickly. This just happened as I tried a plain edge pac salt but just couldn't do it. I missed the teeth! H1 is just so carefree and easy to sharpen that I don't have a need or want to try other stuff. Hot and humid Texas summer with this knife in waistband while swimming, mountain biking, and trail running and it never misses a beat. Yard work, opening packages, cutting down cardboard, this knife does it all. Touching up the H1 is easy with my little triangle sharpener. The scales were dyed black but are now fading to green. H1 with teeth....it's what's for EDC.
g by Six Pound Cat, on Flickr
thumbnail by Six Pound Cat, on Flickr

I've been EDCing nothing but H1 the past few weeks and it really makes me question some of my purchases. The Pacific Salt is as perfect of an EDC knife as I've found.

Last time I went to the beach I accidently carried my S30V Military into the ocean - viewtopic.php?t=89798

Today I had my Pacific Salt clipped to my swim shorts while I swam in the Atlantic:



Didn't get rinsed out until 4 hours later, and it stayed clipped to my shorts soaked in salt water that entire time.

The result?

The pivot felt a little gritty and I spent about 20 seconds rinsing it out.

That's it.



Compare that to a half hour detailing on the Military.

When I consider how long rust maintenance can take VS a simple touch-up, prioritizing edge holding over corrosion resistance is simply illogical for me.

It is so much faster, easier and requires less tools to touch-up an edge compared to breaking down a knife and sanding rust out. I keep one of these $3 diamond stones in my EDC bag and I can restore an H1 edge to a shaving sharp ~300 grit toothy edge in 20-30 seconds.

H1 is the best steel overall I have tried in a pocket knife. Other steels do individual things better....generally just edge holding....but none can compare to the total package H1 offers.

It's rust proof, tougher than most any stainless I've tried, is one of the easiest steels to sharpen, and holds an edge well with a thin coarse apex.

I quite like H1. I carry a Dragonfly quite a bit and I have a ladybug hawk in my pajamas and it gets used daily for something. No issues at all, zero, nada, zilch.

Since I don't dive, I would like to see different colored handles on H1 knives as a choice. Orange, black, dark forest green (yes!), etc.

Well, 3 years later my opinion hasn't changed much, except that I'd also throw LC200N into the mix and generally will choose whichever steel comes in the knife I'm looking at buying. In situations where a knife is available in both (Pacific) I think I'd choose LC just to get a FFG blade.


I also suspect MagnaCut is about to come into this fight absolutely swinging. Sal has mentioned a couple times that he's very impressed with how corrosion resistant it has been and the toughness and edge retention will be as good or better than H1/LC, toughness maybe not quite to the point of H1 but plenty good enough for even outright hard use and abuse. It sounds like MagnaCut will be all of the good things that H1 has going for it plus at least S30V level edge retention.

I am 100% behind you. H1 in spyderedge IS the ultimate alloy and since I almost carry and use serrated blades lately ( because SE are superior to plain edges in my book ) I am the one who changed his mind. Even in plain edge H1 offers me decent edge retention and the peace of mind I need for my daily cutting chores. I can bring back a H1 plain edge to decent sharpness level using almost any hard surface just because being so tough it doesn’t chip so all I need is to align not to remove the material. I don’t see the benefits of a full flat grind over a hollow grind( not to mention a thin high hollow grind) so H1 spydies being hollow ground is just a plus.

elena86 wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 14, 2021 8:18 am

I am 100% behind you. H1 in spyderedge IS the ultimate alloy and since I almost carry and use serrated blades lately ( because SE are superior to plain edges in my book ) I am the one who changed his mind. Even in plain edge H1 offers me decent edge retention and the peace of mind I need for my daily cutting chores. I can bring back a H1 plain edge to decent sharpness level using almost any hard surface just because being so tough it doesn’t chip so all I need is to align not to remove the material. I don’t see the benefits of a full flat grind over a hollow grind( not to mention a thin high hollow grind) so H1 spydies being hollow ground is just a plus.

I love hollow ground blades, especially thin high hollow grinds. I own a number of them and they cut like nothing else. There are times when I prefer ffg, but normally the hollow grind gets my nod. I like the Dragonfly Salt as much for the hollow grind as the steel. It is a great cutter in PE and SE.

I’ll also add that another bonus of the H1 salt knives is their simplicity of construction, especially the older handle models. There are so few parts which means less things to go wrong. No washers, no liners, no complicated locking mechanisms. Simple and functional.

I am solidly in the choir. Over 70% of my knives are H1. I have VG-10 and s30v also, and I should probably expand my horizons I guess, but I'm not sure why.

H1 scratches too easily. Give me LC200N or even better Vanax SuperClean

cabfrank wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 15, 2021 2:48 am

I am solidly in the choir. Over 70% of my knives are H1. I have VG-10 and s30v also, and I should probably expand my horizons I guess, but I'm not sure why.

If you are happy with the steels in the knives you have, IMO, there's no need to feel pressured to try other steels, unless YOU really want to. There really is no "should" when it comes to liking knife steels (again, IMO).

I really like H1, but I cannot say it's my favorite steel. I'd say it's among my favorites. I think I like LC200N more, even though H1 is more rust-proof.

TBH, if VG-10 were the same as it is now, except as rust-proof as H1, I'd like VG-10 better than H1. In some uses, I already prefer VG-10.

Jim

I've been disappointed with the performance of my SE H1 knife. I actually don't think it's a great EDC choice unless you work around salt water and don't have the cash to afford something in LC200N.

metaphoricalsimile wrote: ↑

Thu Jul 15, 2021 12:46 pm

I've been disappointed with the performance of my SE H1 knife. I actually don't think it's a great EDC choice unless you work around salt water and don't have the cash to afford something in LC200N.

Have you sharpened it at all since purchasing it?

I haven't noticed a huge difference in the pricing or edge holding of H1 vs LC, but what we each cut and how we sharpen could make a big difference in our experience.

40mm wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 14, 2021 10:37 am

I’ll also add that another bonus of the H1 salt knives is their simplicity of construction, especially the older handle models. There are so few parts which means less things to go wrong. No washers, no liners, no complicated locking mechanisms. Simple and functional.

Yes, this is exactly why I pretty much only buy Salt knives. Simplicity, function and minimal maintenance (sharpening). I do prefer plain edge for most of my tasks but certainly have serrated as well…and I prefer H1 in serrated. (LC200N in plain edge for me)