Byrd Rust Resistance?

[SpyderEdgeForever]

Say a person cannot afford a Salt knife so opts for a Byrd instead. How good are they at resisting rust and corrosion?

[JohnNYPD]

Excellent. I have carried a Byrd Harrier 2 out on the Atlantic Ocean fishing many times. I just rinse with some soap and warm water at the end of the day. No issues with rust or pitting.

[vivi]

8Cr is less corrosion resistant than a lot of common steels like VG10, S30V, etc. I see spotting on Byrds more easily than Spydercos for this reason.

The black coated Byrds, and S35VN/BD1/BD1N models hold up better.

If you're on a budget I'd watch ebay for pacific salt 1's or salt 1's. You can get them in good shape for $50-75.

[Actinolite]

I have four Byrds:
Robin 2 and Hawkbill (8Cr), and Crow 2 and Raven 2 (BD1).
I've never had an issue with the BD1 Byrds. My Hawkbill is used gardening, and I clean the knife after every use. No problems at all; it just works great.

The Robin has had a few rust dots on the blade. I've carried a Lil Native 10V or a Chaparral in that same pocket much more frequently, and neither the tool steel nor the nearly-stainless XHP have had issues.

I do not know what caused the few spots on the Robin 2, and I haven't seen a repeat of it.

[PM2Josh]

I feel pretty confident in using my Byrd for saltwater use, provided I rinse the blade afterward. I usually opt for 91% rubbing alcohol to do this, as it dries really quickly.

Then, I add some spot-on oil to coat the blade and inner liners with a small piece of paper towel to reach the inner liners.

However, a fresh water rinse will suffice, provided you get the excess moisture out. This can be done by wiping down or using a fan.

I have no idea how my liners look on the sides of my FRN scales, as I have never taken them off yet.

But I can tell you this: a Byrd is a **** fine budget-priced pocket knife.

[SpyderEdgeForever]

Thank you, Josh! This is some of the best knife news I have read.

[PM2Josh]

Thank you, Josh! This is some of the best knife news I have read.

Even if you do get some rust on stainless, chances are it will be so minute that you can wipe it off with some Bar Keepers Friend, Comet, or a rust eraser.

Stainless, even cheap stainless, does not just rust like crazy compared to carbon steel.

In my shed, I have an Estwing stainless sportsman hand axe and a bunch of carbon steel tools.

When I looked in the shed after a year of humid heat and cold winter, I noticed my shovel, pick, machete, hoe, etc., which are carbon steel tools, gather rust. Even with a coat of WD-40.

My stainless Estwing hand axe barely had a few tiny spots, which I removed in less than 2 minutes with a small wire brush.

My carbon steel tools now get a coat of clear spray enamel or clear coat every 2 to 12 months, depending on how often I use that tool.

Not one spot of rust ever since..

[PM2Josh]

Thank you, Josh! This is some of the best knife news I have read.

(Accidental double post glitch)

[SpyderEdgeForever]

Thank you, Josh! This is some of the best knife news I have read.

Even if you do get some rust on stainless, chances are it will be so minute that you can wipe it off with some Bar Keepers Friend, Comet, or a rust eraser.

Stainless, even cheap stainless, does not just rust like crazy compared to carbon steel.

In my shed, I have an Estwing stainless sportsman hand axe and a bunch of carbon steel tools.

When I looked in the shed after a year of humid heat and cold winter, I noticed my shovel, pick, machete, hoe, etc., which are carbon steel tools, gather rust. Even with a coat of WD-40.

My stainless Estwing hand axe barely had a few tiny spots, which I removed in less than 2 minutes with a small wire brush.

My carbon steel tools now get a coat of clear spray enamel or clear coat every 2 to 12 months, depending on how often I use that tool.

Not one spot of rust ever since..

Wow THANK YOU!
I needed this advice and insight. Thanks, Josh.
This encourages my love for stainless steel and also Byrd knives.

[jasonstone20]

I would suggest if you are worried about corrosion, to keep the knife clean, dry, and oiled. I usually use food-grade mineral oil, apply it to a paper towel, wipe a thin coat on the blade, then wipe any excess off with a dry, lint-free paper towel. I do this every day for a week, and it usually is enough to keep things for getting rusty. I live in a fairly wet environment, in Portland, OR in the Pacific Northwest. I also tend to carry my knives pretty close to my body, which can also be a source of corrosion, with neck carry under my shirt against my skin, and IWB carry of fixed blades and folders.

[jasonstone20]

Thank you, Josh! This is some of the best knife news I have read.

Even if you do get some rust on stainless, chances are it will be so minute that you can wipe it off with some Bar Keepers Friend, Comet, or a rust eraser.

Stainless, even cheap stainless, does not just rust like crazy compared to carbon steel.

In my shed, I have an Estwing stainless sportsman hand axe and a bunch of carbon steel tools.

When I looked in the shed after a year of humid heat and cold winter, I noticed my shovel, pick, machete, hoe, etc., which are carbon steel tools, gather rust. Even with a coat of WD-40.

My stainless Estwing hand axe barely had a few tiny spots, which I removed in less than 2 minutes with a small wire brush.

My carbon steel tools now get a coat of clear spray enamel or clear coat every 2 to 12 months, depending on how often I use that tool.

Not one spot of rust ever since..

Corroision happens, it is good to know how to take care of it when it does happen. Stainless will corrode, especially if it is treated with a bead-blast finish. Black rust actually can protect the steel, even though it is unsightly, but red rust is very bad and should be removed as soon as possible.

[BeggarSo]

After discovering tape doesn't stick to an oiled blade as much I oil magnacut even.