Custom LW screw sets to sit flush with scales

[ImaCutSumSchitt84]

Am I the only one who feels this would be an improvement? After owning, loving and preferring many lw models, but never being fond of the dome/button head screws compared to how g10 versions are flush with the surface, I've finally sourced the perfect screw. These are an exact fit and are titanium, the material doesn't matter to me though. Not only do they sit flush but what I like most is the fact that they fill the whole completely, making full contact at the mating surface at the bottom of the hole. Where this matters most to me is the pivot. I may be over thinking it but to me the lw pivot screw head having room around it's edge came across as less robust. I've convinced myself that the slop around the hole allowed the blade to wiggle because the outter most point of its axle has room to shift. I'm sure it's in my head but with these there's no question they socket in as though they were engineered right along side the scales. I can't be alone in this right?
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[Mushroom]

That new flush hardware looks really good. I wouldn't mind seeing this change.

[Evil D]

I'm going to guess that this is an engineering requirement, and that "counter sinking" the holes in FRN may result in weak spots. Everything in manufacturing is done for a reason, they wouldn't source different screws if the typical G10 screws could be used.

[ImaCutSumSchitt84]

EvilD
Not sure what you mean, did you even look at the photos? The screws have a flat bottom just like stock that mates with the FRN surface seemlessely like stock. Nobody mentioned wanting a funneled hole in FRN like the g10 is. But I do want the same look at the surface as the g10 models. A flat smooth look. This has nothing to do with engineering. Nothing about the mating surfaces has changed other than the screw filling the hole to the top with a material that the screw is made of as opposed to doming the head.

[ImaCutSumSchitt84]

I'm going to guess that this is an engineering requirement, and that "counter sinking" the holes in FRN may result in weak spots. Everything in manufacturing is done for a reason, they wouldn't source different screws if the typical G10 screws could be used.

Sorry, I've replied to you once already but to be clear there are 3 photos incase you missed the close ups of the screws. Just saying because you seem to be misunderstanding.

[Evil D]

Ok you're right my bad carry on.

[zhyla]

I may be over thinking it but to me the lw pivot screw head having room around it's edge came across as less robust. I've convinced myself that the slop around the hole allowed the blade to wiggle because the outter most point of its axle has room to shift.

That’s not how pivots work. Screw heads are not registration surfaces. Screws apply axial force, nothing else.

I do like the idea of flush screw sets. Titanium surprises me but as long as it doesn’t cause galvanic corrosion or strip easily, sounds good.

I would absolutely never ever ask or expect Spyderco to do this. This is best solved by the aftermarket.

[ImaCutSumSchitt84]

I may be over thinking it but to me the lw pivot screw head having room around it's edge came across as less robust. I've convinced myself that the slop around the hole allowed the blade to wiggle because the outter most point of its axle has room to shift.

That’s not how pivots work. Screw heads are not registration surfaces. Screws apply axial force, nothing else.

I do like the idea of flush screw sets. Titanium surprises me but as long as it doesn’t cause galvanic corrosion or strip easily, sounds good.

I would absolutely never ever ask or expect Spyderco to do this. This is best solved by the aftermarket.

I prefaced it with saying "in my head". Your fears of using titanium screws have been addressed for decades. To me the material doesn't matter, that's just the only ones I could source with the exact dimensions and design needed. I have no problem asking spyderco, It's a product we all pay for and if it's driven by the market that's how it works. Imo, It could even draw in some lw holdouts. I only carry and own spyderco knives, and have zero interest in aftermarket "pimped" scales, hardware, and the like, I have full faith in the product presented by them. Its only in this one case that my over obsessiveness got the best of me, because I wanted my beloved lw knives to "fit in" with their g10 counterparts.

[zhyla]

A quick Google search told me the galvanic corrosion concern is a non issue.

The reasons to leave it to the aftermarket:

1. Spyderco needs to cost reduce, especially on LW models.
2. Titanium screws are not as durable as steel.
3. The bulging roundhead screws to me indicate they needed more material in the screw head than would fit flush. But it may also just be a cost thing. The Chinese models are all flush, so that makes sense.

I would like to find a set for my Chap LW though. Anyone know of one?

[abbazaba]

I really wish more knives used only one driver size, like the Sage (only T8 everything), also Sebenza. The opposite being an XM18, which requires 5 different tools!?!

[ImaCutSumSchitt84]

A quick Google search told me the galvanic corrosion concern is a non issue.

The reasons to leave it to the aftermarket:

1. Spyderco needs to cost reduce, especially on LW models.
2. Titanium screws are not as durable as steel.
3. The bulging roundhead screws to me indicate they needed more material in the screw head than would fit flush. But it may also just be a cost thing. The Chinese models are all flush, so that makes sense.

I would like to find a set for my Chap LW though. Anyone know of one?

I spent many hours scouring the internet trying to find the perfect screw that fit all the criteria for this, luckily the Sage 5 screw set all match, other than the clip screw length. The only option was titanium, but it doesn't make any difference to me what is used, especially if it's a cost thing. I highly doubt spyderco is making their button head screws in house, they look identical in machine markings to screws I've ordered off AKS or USAKM before, so them sourcing another style is highly unlikely to affect price. Also, for a lot of people the lw model isn't about cost, they're better in some instances, and more interesting/cooler, someone took time to design the patterns on them and they're very tasteful imo. The Sage 5 for instance is quite bland in g10 imo.

[JSumm]

I like this! I typically prefer G10 or some other scale material to the FRN. However, the Sage 5 FRN pattern is very attractive in person and feels great. Definitely my favorite of all the patterns.

Where did you find the screws?

[ImaCutSumSchitt84]

I like this! I typically prefer G10 or some other scale material to the FRN. However, the Sage 5 FRN pattern is very attractive in person and feels great. Definitely my favorite of all the patterns.

Where did you find the screws?

They're here, https://a.aliexpress.com/_msjZCIY
I hope I'm not violating any rules sharing this link. I haven't tried looking for sets to other models yet, I started with the Sage due to all the screws being the same. It took forever to find because in most cases "flat head" doesnt mean this style, I believe it's called filister. There are many that come close to being flat top but still have some sort of taper or nearly flat dome to them. These are perfectly flat on both sides of the head, so they sit flush and mate against the bottom of the FRN hole perfectly. I thought by the specs I was going to have to mill down the circumference but they are an exact fit.

[ImaCutSumSchitt84]

That’s not how pivots work. Screw heads are not registration surfaces. Screws apply axial force, nothing else.

TLDR; The issue with play I'm referring to comes from mainly the Manix 2 LW, and is improved by having a pivot screw head that makes full contact with the holes perimeter.

I do wanna push back and explain my thinking. What made me believe this happens is the Manix 2 LW. The pivot barrel stops short of the scales and only buts the back side of the FRCP. There is the inner figure 8 "liner" which allows for the pivot to index/key into but that's as far as the pivot extends and only reaches the back side of the FRCP vs. going through like other models. Even if there's only an almost miniscule amount of play between the figure 8 liner and the socket in the FRCP it's still there. So, the only other surface that would allow for you to remove all play is the perimeter of the countersunk hole and the screw heads outer edge. I've seen, and felt, this "slack" in the system myself. With that knife there is always a battle between tight, and removing both blade play and correct action, or, correct action but a very slight amount of blade play. This play is visible at the screw head moving within the larger countersunk hole. The only way to remedy this is to have contact between the screw head edge and the hole it's in. There are a few ways to achieve this but having a larger screw head is the most simple. Sorry, I'm not trying at all to talk trash about Spyderco, there's designs, or production team. Like I said I'm literally only interested in owning and carrying Spyderco, this is just a discussion I wanted to have about something I care about. I do understand it's likely this is something only a handful of people notice, I just thought it would be a good topic incase others have the same obsessive tendencies.

[zhyla]

The pivot barrel stops short of the scales and only buts the back side of the FRCP.

Interesting. But again, screws provide axial force. If it’s tight enough then that pivot won’t wobble.

[ImaCutSumSchitt84]

The pivot barrel stops short of the scales and only buts the back side of the FRCP.

Interesting. But again, screws provide axial force. If it’s tight enough then that pivot won’t wobble.

Thats my point, it also won't have a nice action. With that knife specifically you can achieve perfect action by using the screws I describe, allowing you to back off enough to were the action is just right but without feeling that play. I wouldn't call it a full on loose wobble, but it's there. If simply changing the screws improves it I thought others may want to know of the solution. This is really a separate issue, only related, to my original post which was mainly cosmetics.

[Airlsee]

I wish they were steel, but don't see a problem here. I like the idea, though somewhat skeptical about TI screws from AliExpress...

[ImaCutSumSchitt84]

I wish they were steel, but don't see a problem here. I like the idea, though somewhat skeptical about TI screws from AliExpress...

Don't think I didn't try, the hours I spent on US and European manufacturing websites looking at nearly ever screw they offered ,one by one, due to their search function being useless, led to this as my only option.

[ImaCutSumSchitt84]

I wish they were steel, but don't see a problem here. I like the idea, though somewhat skeptical about TI screws from AliExpress...

Also, I bought more than necessary in order to torture test before installing them. They're surprisingly hard, and durable, as far as handling torque and surface abrasion goes. They're as or more durable than Flytanium hardware. Which is likely sourced from the same factory or it's neighbor.

[ImaCutSumSchitt84]

After giving it some thought, I wish there was a way to edit the title. I would prefer it to say "Any other LW lovers want updated hardware?" or something similar.